Affordable decent 3D printer

[-Dusty-]

The new Creality CR 6 is coming out soon. Its kinda pricey, has autoleveling if you're interested in that. Ender 3 pro or Ender 3 v2 is pretty affordable. Those are very easy to work with from what I hear.

I personally went with a Artillery Sidewinder. So far im happy with it. Got a big build area and has a direct drive extruder.

 

[NewSensei]

think I'm going to get the ender 3 as most suggest, just on the nervous side gettingninto 3d printing...quite intimidating

 

[Rainger40]

Any thoughts on the creality 10s pro? Auto level bed, bigger build plate, touchscreen, dual gear extruded, can be had for $475. Upgrading an Ender 3 would get you close to that number anyway wouldn’t it?

 

[Camaroboy383]

Any thoughts on the creality 10s pro? Auto level bed, bigger build plate, touchscreen, dual gear extruded, can be had for $475. Upgrading an Ender 3 would get you close to that number anyway wouldn’t it?

They are decent now..as long as you get a revised version.. (which I'm sure you will).. they had issues with the bed leveling sensor for a while..

Also keep in mind that the cr10s pro and the crx both use a 24v power supply, and the bed is switched with a SSR (solid state relay) instead of the typically mosfet driven bed heaters...

these ssr's fail quite often, I had one melt down the other day stuck in the on position on my crx.. bed ran away to 160c and if I didnt smell the cooking plastic when I did it would have been on fire in no time...

This being said the best thing you can do is either switch out the ssr immediately with a 100a ssr and heat sink it.. or switch back over to mosfet driven...

Just figured I'd put that info out there so you know what your getting into with the crx or cr10s pro..

Also, btw, touch screen isn't any kind of upgrade, they suck actually...?

 

[LibertyMKiii]

think I'm going to get the ender 3 as most suggest, just on the nervous side gettingninto 3d printing...quite intimidating

The are great until they start acting up. Luckily going with a big name like the Ender 3 parts are very accessible.
I was having issues with my CR10 s pro and ordered a whole new nozzle/hot end/ptfe tube all for 38.00 delivered next day from amazon and Im up and running like new again!

 

[Jason537]

For the Canadians Ender 3 V2

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0761ZZN6S...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

 

[LibertyMKiii]

think I'm going to get the ender 3 as most suggest, just on the nervous side gettingninto 3d printing...quite intimidating

I have a tendency to start with the instructions....
Step 1 do this - ok got it
Step 2 do this - done
Step 3 - ok I think I get where they are going with all of this I got it and I try to figure it out on my own.

When setting up the printer go exactly step by step getting started. The initial calibrations are so very critical! Following a good how-to video is a good idea. In the age of YouTube there is some great getting started how-to videos.

 

[Rainger40]

They are decent now..as long as you get a revised version.. (which I'm sure you will).. they had issues with the bed leveling sensor for a while..

Also keep in mind that the cr10s pro and the crx both use a 24v power supply, and the bed is switched with a SSR (solid state relay) instead of the typically mosfet driven bed heaters...

these ssr's fail quite often, I had one melt down the other day stuck in the on position on my crx.. bed ran away to 160c and if I didnt smell the cooking plastic when I did it would have been on fire in no time...

This being said the best thing you can do is either switch out the ssr immediately with a 100a ssr and heat sink it.. or switch back over to mosfet driven...

Just figured I'd put that info out there so you know what your getting into with the crx or cr10s pro..

Also, btw, touch screen isn't any kind of upgrade, they suck actually...?

Thanks, that’s great info. I’m a total newbie to 3d printing and I’m trying to avoid getting the “wrong one” out of the gate. Some days I think cheap 3 v2 get started and other days I think buy with all the bells and whistles the first time. I’ll make a choice eventually haha.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

They are decent now..as long as you get a revised version.. (which I'm sure you will).. they had issues with the bed leveling sensor for a while..

Also keep in mind that the cr10s pro and the crx both use a 24v power supply, and the bed is switched with a SSR (solid state relay) instead of the typically mosfet driven bed heaters...

these ssr's fail quite often, I had one melt down the other day stuck in the on position on my crx.. bed ran away to 160c and if I didnt smell the cooking plastic when I did it would have been on fire in no time...

This being said the best thing you can do is either switch out the ssr immediately with a 100a ssr and heat sink it.. or switch back over to mosfet driven...

Just figured I'd put that info out there so you know what your getting into with the crx or cr10s pro..

Also, btw, touch screen isn't any kind of upgrade, they suck actually...?

Yikes that is good to know. I had not heard about this. Given the scenario where this occurs would you say 99% of the time the SSR will do this in the first start up and I would notice the run away early? I always watch my prints start the first few layers, since I am cheap and don't have the BL Touch upgrade yet.

 

[Camaroboy383]

Yikes that is good to know. I had not heard about this. Given the scenario where this occurs would you say 99% of the time the SSR will do this in the first start up and I would notice the run away early? I always watch my prints start the first few layers, since I am cheap and don't have the BL Touch upgrade yet.

They typically fail during long prints..20+ hrs of switching on and off... there are two problems with a ssr in a 3d printer..

first is the firmware target temps.. these temps are targeted with little variation which we want to keep bed temps stable.. problem with that is a ssr is mechanical.. it can only repeatedly turn on and off so many times before it gets extremely hot..

The second being the ssr's installed are 40a with no heat sink..they are floating in the lower cabinet... now if they had improvised a sink in there it probably wouldn't be an issue.. but they thermally melt down due to amp load and constant switching..

Tim at th3d has the mosfet conversion for them if interested..

I opted with a 100a ssr and a heat sink I machined.. I will be doing a video on it soon.. I will post it here when I get it up on youtube..?

 

[jondilly1974]

Does the thermal runaway protection in Marlin help prevent issues with the SSR?

 

[Camaroboy383]

Does the thermal runaway protection in Marlin help prevent issues with the SSR?

No sir.. it's purely mechanical.. once the relay is stuck its direct power from the psu at all times... so all it takes is a flick of the power switch and that baby is off and running like forest gump...?

 

[Malice]

I just got my Ender 3 Pro up a couple of hours ago. I've been creating objects and browsing thing verse for some time. Took about 45 minutes to get together. I spent a good 15 minutes or so leveling the bed and have been printing all night long! DO NOT BUY IT FROM AMAZON. It's 239.00 there, plus tax. Buy it directly from creality's store for 209.00 no tax, free expedited shipping. If that is what you chose to buy. I admit I haven't had a chance to read this entire thread yet, but I literally set mine up at like 4pm this afternoon!

 

[Mr.Vylan]

This is interesting timing since I just went through a journey purchasing, learning, crying, and everything that comes with owning a 3D printer. I purchased the ANYCUBIC Mega-S, spent countless hours tweaking and testing. I got a few good prints but eventually became frustrated over the problems. I returned it and just purchased the Creality Ender 5 Pro 3D Printer. Amazon had a $40 coupon and will be printing parts soon.

I must admit I learned a great deal with the ANYCUBIC but after many hours of research, I decided on the Creality Ender. I would have gone with the following if I wanted to spend more and wait until November.

https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-prin...3-mk3s-kit.html?search_query=mk3s&results=128

I really wanted this also, but the lead time is too long.
https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/66-original-prusa-mini

BTW- The low price point only offers the 220x220mm print bead. So, if you need a 12" part you need to spend more money.

Arrma 3D files
https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=arrma&type=things&sort=relevant

I just got my Ender 3 Pro up a couple of hours ago. I've been creating objects and browsing thing verse for some time. Took about 45 minutes to get together. I spent a good 15 minutes or so leveling the bed and have been printing all night long! DO NOT BUY IT FROM AMAZON. It's 239.00 there, plus tax. Buy it directly from creality's store for 209.00 no tax, free expedited shipping. If that is what you chose to buy. I admit I haven't had a chance to read this entire thread yet, but I literally set mine up at like 4pm this afternoon!

View attachment 101485

Very cool, have fun. Can't wait to see some prints.

 

[Rainger40]

The creality line is terribly muddled imo. Regular, pro, plus, v2 its hard to tell what’s the latest greatest because they don't stop making the old versions it seems. I looked at the 5 pro/plus also but I’m too new to this I can’t make heads or tails of it outside of the obvious like build size.

 

[jondilly1974]

If the current Creality printers, the ones I would choose from are the Ender 3 V2, CR-6 SE, or CR-10 S5.

 

[Rainger40]

Those are what I’ve narrowed it down to -the s5, don’t want that big of initial investment, I’ve got the cr6se in my cart on amazon, but I read some about early issues of them smoking out. I think it’s been resolved, but the last thing I want to do is start a fire in my house.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

They typically fail during long prints..20+ hrs of switching on and off... there are two problems with a ssr in a 3d printer..

first is the firmware target temps.. these temps are targeted with little variation which we want to keep bed temps stable.. problem with that is a ssr is mechanical.. it can only repeatedly turn on and off so many times before it gets extremely hot..

The second being the ssr's installed are 40a with no heat sink..they are floating in the lower cabinet... now if they had improvised a sink in there it probably wouldn't be an issue.. but they thermally melt down due to amp load and constant switching..

Tim at th3d has the mosfet conversion for them if interested..

I opted with a 100a ssr and a heat sink I machined.. I will be doing a video on it soon.. I will post it here when I get it up on youtube..?

Is the product you were referencing?
https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/high-amp-12v-24v-mosfet-heated-bed-or-hotend/

Their how-to video does not appear to be for the s Pro version.

 

[Camaroboy383]

Is the product you were referencing?
https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/high-amp-12v-24v-mosfet-heated-bed-or-hotend/

Their how-to video does not appear to be for the s Pro version.

Yes sir... that is the correct mosfet.. there is a link attached to that page for the printable mount as well...

Installation on all creality is the same, this link is for the ender 5 install... this time stamp just shows that you can pull power direct from the psu, with the other leg hooked to the mosfet...

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Yes sir... that is the correct mosfet.. there is a link attached to that page for the printable mount as well...

Installation on all creality is the same, this link is for the ender 5 install... this time stamp just shows that you can pull power direct from the psu, with the other leg hooked to the mosfet...

Really appreciate your knowledge and experience! I'd prefer not to burn our house down... $15.00 seems very worth it.