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So how much money would it take , in upgrades, to make the K4S as durable as a stock Maxx? Just curious as I don't own either.
I don't know since I don't own a K4s either. I've heard that you have to replace the arms with RPM, change the shocks with stronger ones, change the crappy radio to name a few of them. The chassis on the Maxx is stronger (some people have cracked the chassis on the k4s). The slipper clutch seems to be giving trouble to some K4s owners. The Maxx chassis seems to be stronger. It has a beefie center diff instead of a slipper . The bulkhead area seems to be stronger on the Maxx too. So the K4s can get close to durability. I know for sure that the K6s needs about $316 in upgrades from m2c in order to make durable enough to send it high in the air. And that's not including the $20 steering servo I installed. Some people even go more with the available HR hubs ($50 for a pair), bulkheads ($50 each). I haven't done that yet with mine, since I just can't justify getting those parts ?
 
So how much money would it take , in upgrades, to make the K4S as durable as a stock Maxx? Just curious as I don't own either.
With the current parts/upgrades available I don't think you could make a K4s as durable as a stock Maxx.

Even if you buy every upgrade available you still have a chassis that is super fragile compared to the Maxx. If you can't strengthen the back bone of the car, then all the upgrades are worth crap in my opinion.

They do improve the K4s, but it will never compete with a Maxx for durability.

I don't know since I don't own a K4s either. I've heard that you have to replace the arms with RPM, change the shocks with stronger ones, change the crappy radio to name a few of them. The chassis on the Maxx is stronger (some people have cracked the chassis on the k4s). The slipper clutch seems to be giving trouble to some K4s owners. The Maxx chassis seems to be stronger. It has a beefie center diff instead of a slipper . The bulkhead area seems to be stronger on the Maxx too. So the K4s can get close to durability. I know for sure that the K6s needs about $316 in upgrades from m2c in order to make durable enough to send it high in the air. And that's not including the $20 steering servo I installed. Some people even go more with the available HR hubs ($50 for a pair), bulkheads ($50 each). I haven't done that yet with mine, since I just can't justify getting those parts ?
This starts a fight with arrma fanboys, but I recommend staying with the arrma arms on the K4s because I think the RPM arms are stronger than the K4s chassis can handle. Me and my buddy both broke our chassis after adding the RPM arms.
 
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With the current parts/upgrades available I don't think you could make a K4s as durable as a stock Maxx.

Even if you buy every upgrade available you still have a chassis that is super fragile compared to the Maxx. If you can't strengthen the back bone of the car, then all the upgrades are worth crap in my opinion.

They do improve the K4s, but it will never compete with a Maxx for durability.


This starts a fight with arrma fanboys, but I recommend staying with the arrma arms on the K4s because I think the RPM arms are stronger than the K4s chassis can handle. Me and my buddy both broke our chassis after adding the RPM arms.
Yeah that's not good. You might as well just pick up a Kaiju for the same price. Yeah it also has issues that we are working on, but the chassis is strikingly similar to the Maxx one. Better chassis, lower control arms (except for the upper control arms), better electronics, including the radio, servo, and motor, possibly better tires and it's about the same size. Oh yeah, better shocks than the K4s too.
 
Yeah that's not good. You might as well just pick up a Kaiju for the same price. Yeah it also has issues that we are working on, but the chassis is strikingly similar to the Maxx one. Better chassis, lower control arms (except for the upper control arms), better electronics, including the radio, servo, and motor, possibly better tires and it's about the same size. Oh yeah, better shocks than the K4s too.
The Kaiju does seem like a better value than the K4S and Maxx, but imo, it has the ugliest and possibly weakest body.
 
The Kaiju does seem like a better value than the K4S and Maxx, but imo, it has the ugliest and possibly weakest body.
Yup its a weak spot. I replaced mine with a buggie body that is intended for the Outcast 6s. $35 off ebay. It's more flexible than the stock one and it's been way more durable so far. And it's way better looking ?
 
So how much money would it take , in upgrades, to make the K4S as durable as a stock Maxx? Just curious as I don't own either.
Front bumper rpm arms and shocks who vary in price
the only way to break a arrma 3-4s chassi is a hard colison kn the front the chassi tries to bend in a V shape and it snaps an arm pulling the chassi to one side is far from enough to snap a chassi its the bent when you hit something hard in the front that makes it crack and snap
More flexible arms absorb more energy so saying it breaks the chassi is kinda nonsense how can you snap a chassi when the other parts absorb more energy i will say its the stock arms who are more rigid that can giv a spike or energy towards the chassi before the arm snaping than the rpm arms
 
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Absolutely love the Widemaxx Kit and it was no harder to install than changing the arms on the K4s.

As for the K4s chassis, jamming a wheel at speed can snap the chassis, hitting square on the skid plate (can't call what it comes with factory a bumper) can snap the chassis, landing too hard on the rear or wheelie bar can snap the chassis. All of these things may snap the chassis on the Maxx too, but so far they haven't. This is why I called the K4s chassis fragile compared to the Maxx. The Maxx also doesn't have a crappy slipper clutch with no real upgrade available. I know you can fiddle with it (almost constantly) to get it to work better, but the Maxx delivers the power so much better. so that is another weakness in my opinion. No center driveshaft protection on the K4s.

The K4s does handle pretty sweet, cornering, in the air, but does have a lot of short comings for a $399 car. With all the areas that Arrma saved money on this car I would have hoped for better parts in other areas. The K4s is starting to grow on me, but the Maxx is definitely worth the extra $129 for out of the box performance/durability.
 

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Front bumper rpm arms and shocks who vary in price
the only way to break a arrma 3-4s chassi is a hard colison kn the front the chassi tries to bend in a V shape and it snaps an arm pulling the chassi to one side is far from enough to snap a chassi its the bent when you hit something hard in the front that makes it crack and snap
More flexible arms absorb more energy so saying it breaks the chassi is kinda nonsense how can you snap a chassi when the other parts absorb more energy i will say its the stock arms who are more rigid that can giv a spike or energy towards the chassi before the arm snaping than the rpm arms

Jesus H. Run on Sentence.

This guy writes like Forrest Gump runs.
 
Absolutely love the Widemaxx Kit and it was no harder to install than changing the arms on the K4s.

As for the K4s chassis, jamming a wheel at speed can snap the chassis, hitting square on the skid plate (can't call what it comes with factory a bumper) can snap the chassis, landing too hard on the rear or wheelie bar can snap the chassis. All of these things may snap the chassis on the Maxx too, but so far they haven't. This is why I called the K4s chassis fragile compared to the Maxx. The Maxx also doesn't have a crappy slipper clutch with no real upgrade available. I know you can fiddle with it (almost constantly) to get it to work better, but the Maxx delivers the power so much better. so that is another weakness in my opinion. No center driveshaft protection on the K4s.

The K4s does handle pretty sweet, cornering, in the air, but does have a lot of short comings for a $399 car. With all the areas that Arrma saved money on this car I would have hoped for better parts in other areas. The K4s is starting to grow on me, but the Maxx is definitely worth the extra $129 for out of the box performance/durability.
Let us know how the stock drive shafts hold up after bashing with the wide kit. Hopefully you won't need the steel ones.
 
Let us know how the stock drive shafts hold up after bashing with the wide kit. Hopefully you won't need the steel ones.
So far so good, recently added E-revo 2.0 wheels/tires and couldn't be happier. I will say that we won't use the self righting feature as that seems to be what is taking out the shafts on most people's widemaxx
 
So far so good, recently added E-revo 2.0 wheels/tires and couldn't be happier. I will say that we won't use the self righting feature as that seems to be what is taking out the shafts on most people's widemaxx
Surprised the shafts are holding up with those considering how heavy they are.
 
Surprised the shafts are holding up with those considering how heavy they are.
Me too, but so far there is no twisting on the axles. I have to say it is jumping a lot smoother, and overall is handling a lot better than it did with the original wheels.

I do plan on getting the steel shafts down the road, but it is nice that it is currently an option and not a necessity. I really like how the bearing are spaced out and the larger diameter on the steel shafts.
 
I would like to own the Maxx but $530 plus the mandatory wide maxx kit is a no go. Hard to justify 6 bills for 10 scale RTR.
 
Yeah true. Very durable truck though I'll give it that. Maybe a used one at a good price?
That's what I like about the Maxx, probably seen hours of runtime with it and takes a beating. I usually don't buy used but if a rig is in exceptional shape at a good price, I'm in.
 
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