All new Traxxas Maxx.

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Ran 3 packs thru mine now with the widemaxx , def way better , slides more now rather than flip ( obviously ) , took it to my bash spot tonight with some jumping , again the plastic "C" block "pops" off the lower king pin screw . At least it's not breaking , but this is annoying , now I see why those with the Maxx install the aluminum upgrade . Will prob get those to .
Anyway , with my wide kit on after 3 packs there is slight twisting on the rear driveshafts and since had to go to my LHS to get some 2000cst , thay had the metal shafts and hexes in stock so I picked them up .
 
3x9rtse said:
Ran 3 packs thru mine now with the widemaxx , def way better , slides more now rather than flip ( obviously ) , took it to my bash spot tonight with some jumping , again the plastic "C" block "pops" off the lower king pin screw . At least it's not breaking , but this is annoying , now I see why those with the Maxx install the aluminum upgrade . Will prob get those to .
Anyway , with my wide kit on after 3 packs there is slight twisting on the rear driveshafts and since had to go to my LHS to get some 2000cst , thay had the metal shafts and hexes in stock so I picked them up .
Click to expand...
Once you add all the upgrades to the maxx, its a totally different truck. Very durable and fun to drive. Too bad it doesn't come with all the upgrades installed, but then it would be priced in the $900 range, but we end up paying that or more anyway.
 
olds97_lss said:
Got a photo that shows the c-hub/king pin installed? Can't wrap my head around the issue, but would like to.
Click to expand...

Here.....

IMG_4323.JPG


IMG_4325.JPG

Here is the video of todays bash with it when these both popped off . Video is about 4 min long , but ran it maybe 20 minutes . You can see when the body popped off they were already popped from the king pin .

 
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Wow... that seems like a stupid design doesn't it? Wonder why they didn't use a T-bolt from the inside of the carrier to to the c-hub then put a nut on it, or use a t-bolt that's a barrel and a screw into the end of it. Have the T part key into a recess in the carrier so it's captured. Pretty sure that's how a couple of my 1/8th buggies did it in the past. They also had a hardened bushing between the nut and carrier so you the wear would be hardened metal on hardened metal, vs just plastic rubbing on it.
2020-0825-OFNA-TBoltBushingNut-kingpin.jpg


Just having the half pin supported by plastic without capturing it is kind of dumb. I mean, I get they want to make stuff cheap, but that's just irritating.

Now I see why your stuffs popping apart on you.

Even if you go with alloy, your going to end up with slop in there pretty quick considering the abuse it's going to take. That's one thing that really annoyed me about my stampede, just a 3mm bolt supporting everything on soft plastic without a bushing or nothing to make the surface area larger. Glad I found the GPM carriers with bearings in them for that...

Sorry for the rant... had a moment there I guess.
 
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3x9rtse said:
Here.....

View attachment 96373

View attachment 96374
Here is the video of todays bash with it when these both popped off . Video is about 4 min long , but ran it maybe 20 minutes . You can see when the body popped off they were already popped from the king pin .

Click to expand...
Yeah that's a weak point for the Maxx. I'm going to replace my c hubs and steering blocks and see what happens. But first I have to replace my rear upper bulkhead. I broke it where the upper control arms go. I also broke the lower bulkhead in the front into two pieces. I honestly don't want to spend more $ on upgrades on this things after the steep initial price, then the widemaxx kit/steel CVDS, Kaiju tires and Max 8 ESC. I should have just bought another xmaxx because, after adding all that, you end up with an Xmaxx priced vehicle. But the xmaxx also needs a maxx 6 esc, indestructible body, better tires (like duratrax lockup x 24mm or the Powerhobby ones), rear rpm hubs and hinge pins ?
 
Iam tempted to get the maxx, but then with all the upgrades it will cost the same as the xmaxx. Then I also think I could get the new big rock and granite for same price as the stock Maxx lol
 
olds97_lss said:
Wow... that seems like a stupid design doesn't it? Wonder why they didn't use a T-bolt from the inside of the carrier to to the c-hub then put a nut on it, or use a t-bolt that's a barrel and a screw into the end of it. Have the T part key into a recess in the carrier so it's captured. Pretty sure that's how a couple of my 1/8th buggies did it in the past. They also had a hardened bushing between the nut and carrier so you the wear would be hardened metal on hardened metal, vs just plastic rubbing on it.
2020-0825-OFNA-TBoltBushingNut-kingpin.jpg


Just having the half pin supported by plastic without capturing it is kind of dumb. I mean, I get they want to make stuff cheap, but that's just irritating.

Now I see why your stuffs popping apart on you.

Even if you go with alloy, your going to end up with slop in there pretty quick considering the abuse it's going to take. That's one thing that really annoyed me about my stampede, just a 3mm bolt supporting everything on soft plastic without a bushing or nothing to make the surface area larger. Glad I found the GPM carriers with bearings in them for that...

Sorry for the rant... had a moment there I guess.
Click to expand...


One of the benefits ironically is that it spares the block and hub. Just pops right back in. On my Arrma's which are designed without the pin I was cracking them left and right until I spend a bunch on aluminum up there. After a couple months it'll eventually need replacing but it's cheap. Also it's not unheard of for the aluminum upgrades to bend, etc...
 
insomnia77 said:
Iam tempted to get the maxx, but then with all the upgrades it will cost the same as the xmaxx. Then I also think I could get the new big rock and granite for same price as the stock Maxx lol
Click to expand...
It makes more sense to buy one and keep it completely stock. I kind of regret spending the extra $ on the widemaxx CVDS and arms. That was an extra $120 over the $529. It's a monster truck, so it's going to flip over easy no matter what. The tires that come with it also suck (too small and fragile). The $50 set of Kaiju tires fit nicely on it and I think they would fit even in stock form.
 
Armarookie43 said:
It makes more sense to buy one and keep it completely stock. I kind of regret spending the extra $ on the widemaxx CVDS and arms. That was an extra $120 over the $529. It's a monster truck, so it's going to flip over easy no matter what. The tires that come with it also suck (too small and fragile). The $50 set of Kaiju tires fit nicely on it and I think they would fit even in stock form.
Click to expand...
I hear you Armarookie43 , Thats what I said from the moment I got mine , leave it stock as you won't be breaking the driveshafts , and it is what it is as to how it handles ( flipping over ) or not . It is a monster truck , do people think it will handle like the buggys/truggy style rc's ? I learned to drive mine pretty good to not flip , but then my curiosity rose to see how it handled with the wide kit , very well knowing that I would see shafts twisting !!! LOL , and they did !!!
So now have the metal shafts and 17mm hexes ( which alone that is a great mod ) . Oh well , I'm into this truck for $665 . Still see one more important mod/fix ,.... the aluminum C blocks on the front as every time I go out , the steering knuckle jumps off the pin , doesn't break , but have to pull out the screw , line back up, and put screw back in .
 
Just installed my metal shafts , IMO , even though the truck as some are saying is expensive , the metal shaft upgrade is not that bad if you think about it , you get the cvd shafts and new ( larger ) bearings with it for $ 99 . The one thing I forgot to get was wheel nuts !! Oh well , LHS visit tomorrow ! The truck seems like it will be very reliable now !!!
 
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