Limitless Another Limitless GT build

[LicketySplit]

Now it’s time to change out the Rx antennas and install it in the Rx box. Then I can set the camber, toe, blah blah blah. I have another set of Power Hobby batteries I use for speed runs and forgot to check to make sure they fit in between the strap holders before drilling and countersinking. They don’t fit. FML. Oh well. Figured if the 9500mah CNHLs would fit anything would. Lol.

 

[LicketySplit]

 

[Jerold]

Now it’s time to change out the Rx antennas and install it in the Rx box. Then I can set the camber, toe, blah blah blah. I have another set of Power Hobby batteries I use for speed runs and forgot to check to make sure they fit in between the strap holders before drilling and countersinking. They don’t fit. FML. Oh well. Figured if the 9500mah CNHLs would fit anything would. Lol. View attachment 220242

It looks so pretty.

Just a thought, but if you flip your battery you can shorten your wires a bit. Probably not a whole lot of extra resistance, but it's adds up when you are running high current.

Also are you concerned about damage to the batteries from the cables/connectors and the ties down pressure?

 

[LicketySplit]

Also are you concerned about damage to the batteries from the cables/connectors and the ties down pressure?

Not really. That’s a big connector so the pressure gets spread out. It’s not that bad. I also don’t crank the front strap down as hard if the connector is in there. It may not even go in there at all. Car is done but I still have some tuning to do plus little tweaks here and there.

 

[Limittless]

Now it’s time to change out the Rx antennas and install it in the Rx box. Then I can set the camber, toe, blah blah blah. I have another set of Power Hobby batteries I use for speed runs and forgot to check to make sure they fit in between the strap holders before drilling and countersinking. They don’t fit. FML. Oh well. Figured if the 9500mah CNHLs would fit anything would. Lol. View attachment 220242

what did u use to set the caber on my limittless im just setting it to wear the wheel look straight once i drive it tends to go to the left or when i readjust it the opposite side it goes to the right i just ordered a gpm toe in gauge. Any tips on getting it to track straight?

 

[Diem Turner]

what did u use to set the caber on my limittless im just setting it to wear the wheel look straight once i drive it tends to go to the left or when i readjust it the opposite side it goes to the right i just ordered a gpm toe in gauge. Any tips on getting it to track straight?

Eliminate as much slop in the steering and wheel assemblies as you possibly can. There's a lot of stuff you can do for essentially free with shims, washers, etc. That'll do a lot for the tracking of your car.

If you have a car with identical trackwidth front and rear, take the body off and stand your car on one side so the front wheel on the table or bench is flat on the surface. You can either eyeball it or place a small level on the other front wheel and level it out. That way you know you're starting from 0° toe. Then you can rough it by counting eighth or quarter turns of your turnbuckles. That's how I do it. I like to run a tiny bit of toe out (0.5-1°) as it makes the steering more responsive and then trim the Dual Rate to taste.

 

[Limittless]

Eliminate as much slop in the steering and wheel assemblies as you possibly can. There's a lot of stuff you can do for essentially free with shims, washers, etc. That'll do a lot for the tracking of your car.

If you have a car with identical trackwidth front and rear, take the body off and stand your car on one side so the front wheel on the table or bench is flat on the surface. You can either eyeball it or place a small level on the other front wheel and level it out. That way you know you're starting from 0° toe. Then you can rough it by counting eighth or quarter turns of your turnbuckles. That's how I do it. I like to run a tiny bit of toe out (0.5-1°) as it makes the steering more responsive and then trim the Dual Rate to taste.

bout to do this now thank you.

 

[LicketySplit]

Eliminate as much slop in the steering and wheel assemblies as you possibly can. There's a lot of stuff you can do for essentially free with shims, washers, etc. That'll do a lot for the tracking of your car.

If you have a car with identical trackwidth front and rear, take the body off and stand your car on one side so the front wheel on the table or bench is flat on the surface. You can either eyeball it or place a small level on the other front wheel and level it out. That way you know you're starting from 0° toe. Then you can rough it by counting eighth or quarter turns of your turnbuckles. That's how I do it. I like to run a tiny bit of toe out (0.5-1°) as it makes the steering more responsive and then trim the Dual Rate to taste.

What he said. I have an RPM gauge for camber. I prefer zero toe or maybe a half degree in. I find it tracks straighter. For a speed run car I don’t need it to be super duper responsive. This is really gonna be a personal preference thing. Just play with it until it works for you.

 

[Diem Turner]

What he said. I have an RPM gauge for camber. I prefer zero toe or maybe a half degree in. I find it tracks straighter. For a speed run car I don’t need it to be super duper responsive. This is really gonna be a personal preference thing. Just play with it until it works for you.

For my passes I have my D/R set to 35.

 

[LicketySplit]

For my passes I have my D/R set to 35.

I’m still playing with that in all honesty. Trying to find what works for me. Next time out I’m going with 15. But it’s a new build so I’ll be on 4s and 6s with 8s gearing while I work things out.

 

[LicketySplit]

Ended up going with GPM arms. Using the stiffer springs with so much preload caused the arms to bend a little when setting the droop. Probably why James runs them. I think I remember reading that @vwturbowolf had a similar issue. But she’s ready to go. I put diff shims behind the outer front bearings to remove some slop. The rear could probably use a shim but I’m gonna wait until I run it a couple times. It’s not bad and I don’t want to make it too tight.

 

[Diem Turner]

Ended up going with GPM arms. Using the stiffer springs with so much preload caused the arms to bend a little when setting the droop. Probably why James runs them. I think I remember reading that @vwturbowolf had a similar issue. But she’s ready to go. I put diff shims behind the outer front bearings to remove some slop. The rear could probably use a shim but I’m gonna wait until I run it a couple times. It’s not bad and I don’t want to make it too tight. View attachment 224074View attachment 224075

That's a sexy lookin' whip you got there
Yeah, I'm having the same issue you address here with the stiffer springs. The droop screws...well actually the droop screw holes in the composite don't offer enough support to crank the car down with a healthy amount of pre-load so, for now, I've gone back to the original springs on the front and put some extra travel limiters on the shock shafts.

 

[LicketySplit]

My body is also done. I have to do some minor trimming and make the post holes, but it’s pretty much done. I worked really hard on it. Lots of time invested. Probably a few minutes at least is how long it took me to PayPal Ajag. @Ajag. Once again amazing work!!!

That's a sexy lookin' whip you got there
Yeah, I'm having the same issue you address here with the stiffer springs. The droop screws...well actually the droop screw holes in the composite don't offer enough support to crank the car down with a healthy amount of pre-load so, for now, I've gone back to the original springs on the front and put some extra travel limiters on the shock shafts.

You can try 16mm screws. Gives you more bite. Or just go for the arms. It eliminates that issue all together. I don’t really like adding aluminum but I did on this build where I felt it was necessary. Body mounting and the arms. The plastic mounts flexed way to easily.

 

[Jerold]

what did u use to set the caber on my limittless im just setting it to wear the wheel look straight once i drive it tends to go to the left or when i readjust it the opposite side it goes to the right i just ordered a gpm toe in gauge. Any tips on getting it to track straight?

You can look at my build post for some idea. I used a speed square and some calipers, but I was basically going for 0 degrees camber. I haven't changed the caster but might kick in as much as I can to see what happens. I probably have too much toe out as well.

If you measure the ride height, to do it off the control arms or chassis, not the front splitter. The splitters are almost always crooked.

It's tricky because one adjustment changes the others and it's an iterative process.

Jerold

 

[Diem Turner]

My body is also done. I have to do some minor trimming and make the post holes, but it’s pretty much done. I worked really hard on it. Lots of time invested. Probably a few minutes at least is how long it took me to PayPal Ajag. @Ajag. Once again amazing work!!!
View attachment 224076

You can try 16mm screws. Gives you more bite. Or just go for the arms. It eliminates that issue all together. I don’t really like adding aluminum but I did on this build where I felt it was necessary. Body mounting and the arms. The plastic mounts flexed way to easily.

I actually just put those in a few hours ago and yes, you're right. They definitely give a lot more bite so I may be trying the stiff springs again, but for the moment I'm in the "It's working well as it is now" frame of mind and don't see a reason to fix what isn't malfunctioning.

This is why I like using the stubby 3mm body mounts where I can as they have a minimal amount of flex. In my mind I like the idea of really stiff parts but I've observed it too often that introducing stiffness where there was flex tends just tends to move the breaking point somewhere else (suspension arms are an interesting case in point where now you're unlikely to break a suspension arm at the cost of a heightened risk of breaking bulkheads...beef up the bulkhead and you might be breaking chassis components...it's all a give and take is what I guess I'm driving at and it's an interesting game of figuring out what points in a car it makes sense to harden while keeping the risk to other components at a minimum in the process).

 

[LicketySplit]

I actually just put those in a few hours ago and yes, you're right. They definitely give a lot more bite so I may be trying the stiff springs again, but for the moment I'm in the "It's working well as it is now" frame of mind and don't see a reason to fix what isn't malfunctioning.

This is why I like using the stubby 3mm body mounts where I can as they have a minimal amount of flex. In my mind I like the idea of really stiff parts but I've observed it too often that introducing stiffness where there was flex tends just tends to move the breaking point somewhere else (suspension arms are an interesting case in point where now you're unlikely to break a suspension arm at the cost of a heightened risk of breaking bulkheads...beef up the bulkhead and you might be breaking chassis components...it's all a give and take is what I guess I'm driving at and it's an interesting game of figuring out what points in a car it makes sense to harden while keeping the risk to other components at a minimum in the process).

When you wreck at high speeds stuff is gonna break regardless. That being said, after two high speed crashes I will say that having a GT body for sure helped with saving a lot of parts. The reason for running aluminum mounts is they don’t flex under downforce. But yes, you are correct that there is give and take. I guess we shall see. I’m taking it easy with this one. If it tracks straight and everything is right hopefully there will be no crashes.

 

[vwturbowolf]

Ended up going with GPM arms. Using the stiffer springs with so much preload caused the arms to bend a little when setting the droop. Probably why James runs them. I think I remember reading that @vwturbowolf had a similar issue. But she’s ready to go. I put diff shims behind the outer front bearings to remove some slop. The rear could probably use a shim but I’m gonna wait until I run it a couple times. It’s not bad and I don’t want to make it too tight. View attachment 224074View attachment 224075

I did have the issue with the arms bending between the shock and the outer ball joint from the downforce during my runs.
The lower arms fixed that.
I run the stiffer front springs as well but I also took the shocks apart and put about 3/8 inch of fuel line over the shock shaft inside the housing. That essential shortened the shock itself.
My front droop screws don’t force the shock to compress, just keeps it from moving when the wheels lift off the ground

 

[Diem Turner]

When you wreck at high speeds stuff is gonna break regardless. That being said, after two high speed crashes I will say that having a GT body for sure helped with saving a lot of parts. The reason for running aluminum mounts is they don’t flex under downforce. But yes, you are correct that there is give and take. I guess we shall see. I’m taking it easy with this one. If it tracks straight and everything is right hopefully there will be no crashes.

I did have the issue with the arms bending between the shock and the outer ball joint from the downforce during my runs.
The lower arms fixed that.
I run the stiffer front springs as well but I also took the shocks apart and put about 3/8 inch of fuel line over the shock shaft inside the housing. That essential shortened the shock itself.
My front droop screws don’t force the shock to compress, just keeps it from moving when the wheels lift off the ground

Godspeed gentlemen o7

 

[LicketySplit]

I did have the issue with the arms bending between the shock and the outer ball joint from the downforce during my runs.
The lower arms fixed that.
I run the stiffer front springs as well but I also took the shocks apart and put about 3/8 inch of fuel line over the shock shaft inside the housing. That essential shortened the shock itself.
My front droop screws don’t force the shock to compress, just keeps it from moving when the wheels lift off the ground

Interesting. I didn’t even think to add nitro tubing on the inside taking stress off the droop screws. Is there a stiffer fuel tube? The one I got from my LHS seems a little soft. Not a nitro guy so I’m clueless about the tubing.

 

[Diem Turner]

Interesting. I didn’t even think to add nitro tubing on the inside taking stress off the droop screws. Is there a stiffer fuel tube? The one I got from my LHS seems a little soft. Not a nitro guy so I’m clueless about the tubing.

Laboratory vacuum tubing is pretty stiff but still has a little bit of give.