Any DBXLE experts here??

[Moirae]

FID is top notch shït. I got rid of my DBXLE 2.0 because I just didn’t like the fact that it just seemed to fall short of the 5T in almost every way, and for me to get it where I wanted would’ve cost thousands of dollars in a Vitavon parts. I suppose if I had money to burn I would get another one because they look super cool imo. I had to choose to dump some serious money between the 5T 2.0 and the DBXLE 2.0 and I’ve decided the 5T. I haven’t even started the project yet. I haven’t even bought the 5T lol. I literally just finished my Mojave to XL Kraton project. Then I have 3 Revos (and I’ve never even tried a nitro car before much less built one) and 3 Mini 8ights to fully rebuild. I’m thinking winter 2024 for the 5T project.
I’ll be posting some pics of the KXL project very soon!


Seriously though why the he are emulsion caps so pricey?? I feel like I could make an emotion cap with a drill press and a thread tap. One of the worst gouges in RC imo, every manufacturer bends you over for emulsion caps, and not once have I received a well deserved reach-around.


No, definitely not. Like maybe on 12S where are you may use lower amp as a result of the higher voltage but you’re still taxing it. It’ll work, but it’ll be running constantly at its absolute threshold… no bueno. I always found it hilarious that Losey puts the 160 amp ESC in the DBXLE. Like what in the actual fark...!?… that thing has a hard time with a Kraton ffs

Everyone on the large scale forums heavily agrees with you that the 5t is a league ahead of the dbxl. I don't even know the differences but I know I never see 5t's for sale lol. I'm curious on the weight difference between the dbxl and 5t because the max 5 g2 in my dbxl on 12s handles it just fine zero problems. I figured the 5t must be a lb or two heavier and it would still be perfectly fine.

 

[MrWednesday]

You know what you’re probably right, I may have misspoken. I suppose, again, it just comes down to what you want from it
I stand corrected

 

[parcou]

DBXL-E Owners...two questions:

#1
The steering bulkhead area where you have the servo saver....I have bushings. I cannot find anything in the exploded view to tell me the size so I can order bushing. I found HR listing that said they are 7x13x4, is that correct?


#2
The manual says to run a 100C min battery. For my batteries, I have for the stock 780kv motor and HW Max5:

• China Hobby 4S 5600mah 120C
• HOOVO 4S 4S 6600mah 120C
• I "could" buy will not if I do not need to: China Hobby 4S 8000mah 120C

Outside the run time, is there any advantage with the 8000mah for the electronic, or should I stick with what I have?

#3
The seller did not give me the foam rectangular blocks for the battery tray I need for my 4S batteries to take up the space. I cannot find them to purchase. Any suggestion on some made somewhere else?

Thx Fam

 

[Moirae]

DBXL-E Owners...two questions:

#1
The steering bulkhead area where you have the servo saver....I have bushings. I cannot find anything in the exploded view to tell me the size so I can order bushing. I found HR listing that said they are 7x13x4, is that correct?


#2
The manual says to run a 100C min battery. For my batteries, I have for the stock 780kv motor and HW Max5:

• China Hobby 4S 5600mah 120C
• HOOVO 4S 4S 6600mah 120C
• I "could" buy will not if I do not need to: China Hobby 4S 8000mah 120C

Outside the run time, is there any advantage with the 8000mah for the electronic, or should I stick with what I have?

#3
The seller did not give me the foam rectangular blocks for the battery tray I need for my 4S batteries to take up the space. I cannot find them to purchase. Any suggestion on some made somewhere else?

Thx Fam

Your run time is going to suck if you don't get those lipo but you're fine otherwise.

I suggest you invest into this https://www.ebay.com/itm/284522133271

 

[Mike'sGN-Kraton]

These bushings?
And yes the vitavon trays are nice!!!

Or your saying the bushings in the posts?

 

[parcou]

Your run time is going to suck if you don't get those lipo but you're fine otherwise.

I suggest you invest into this https://www.ebay.com/itm/284522133271

Thanks for the reply. My Buddy has 5000mah Spektrum, and his run time is very short. I did slightly outlast him. Cool to know that the C rating passes the mark. Thx

Those trays are nice, but $60 each...ouch. Before I go that way, and it is an excellent option to save money, I will still look for the foam blocks since, for me, it's not a critical area.

These bushings?
And yes the vitavon trays are nice!!!View attachment 353485
View attachment 353484

Or your saying the bushings in the posts?

Wow..it does look nice..the tray


These bushing here need the size for bearings I cannot find it listed

 

[Mike'sGN-Kraton]

That's for the pair.. I'll measure them for you, unless someone beats me to it...Mike

 

[Moirae]

Thanks for the reply. My Buddy has 5000mah Spektrum, and his run time is very short. I did slightly outlast him. Cool to know that the C rating passes the mark. Thx

Those trays are nice, but $60 each...ouch. Before I go that way, and it is an excellent option to save money, I will still look for the foam blocks since, for me, it's not a critical area.



Wow..it does look nice..the tray


These bushing here need the size for bearings I cannot find it listed
View attachment 353486

yea thats 60$ for both trays not just one! still kind of expensive though. I guess with your smaller lipo it's not such a big deal. I'm over here using 8000 and 9500 mah packs and I was struggling to get them in stock trays For your problem, I end up using the foam that comes in the boxes with my motors.

 

[parcou]

yea thats 60$ for both trays not just one! still kind of expensive though. I guess with your smaller lipo it's not such a big deal. I'm over here using 8000 and 9500 mah packs and I was struggling to get them in stock trays For your problem, I end up using the foam that comes in the boxes with my motors.

I got it used, so if you find you do not need your stock foam blocks for the OEM tray and want to sell, I will buy them.

 

[Moirae]

I got it used, so if you find you do not need your stock foam blocks for the OEM tray and want to sell, I will buy them.

Ngl I have no idea if I even had em. Got mine used too but I replaced trays fast.

 

[dure16]

I got it used, so if you find you do not need your stock foam blocks for the OEM tray and want to sell, I will buy them.

I could 3D print a cuboid in any dimensions you need. A box that takes up part of the tray to essentially reduce the size of the tray, so that your batteries fit tightly. I’ve done this on many cars.

 

[parcou]

I could 3D print a cuboid in any dimensions you need. A box that takes up part of the tray to essentially reduce the size of the tray, so that your batteries fit tightly. I’ve done this on many cars.

Thx...I will follow-up appreciate the offer

 

[parcou]

I have weird surprises with this DBXL-E.

I posted recently how I had to cut the motor mount to get the screw out. Unless I was sent the wrong part, I have the replacement Losi motor mount

I'll be DAMN if the center diff outdrive will not go through the mount. The old mount opening pic is 21.xx mm and the new mount hole is 20.xx mm less than a few mm small on this one I got!

It has the same part number as the old LOS252058. I just don't understand, but this did come from a local hobby shop unless Losi retro the part and this has been shelved for a while, which they are known to change the style of the same part number.

Just lost if I order again, maybe from Jenny's or what.

 

[Moirae]

I have weird surprises with this DBXL-E.

I posted recently how I had to cut the motor mount to get the screw out. Unless I was sent the wrong part, I have the replacement Losi motor mount

I'll be DAMN if the center diff outdrive will not go through the mount. The old mount opening pic is 21.xx mm and the new mount hole is 20.xx mm less than a few mm small on this one I got!

View attachment 353901


It has the same part number as the old LOS252058. I just don't understand, but this did come from a local hobby shop unless Losi retro the part and this has been shelved for a while, which they are known to change the style of the same part number.

Just lost if I order again, maybe from Jenny's or what.

View attachment 353902

Are you sure you didn't get a dbxl v1 part instead of a 2.0 part? I dunno if that part is different between models but thats the only thing I can think of.

 

[parcou]

Are you sure you didn't get a dbxl v1 part instead of a 2.0 part? I dunno if that part is different between models but thats the only thing I can think of.

I am "guessing" that is what happened. We have one LHS and it sucks and no telling how long that part has been there. It has the right number; however, as you said, I'm not sure if it's v1 or v2...

It's wrong for sure. I may try JRC. It will be a v2

 

[dure16]

V1 and V2 DBXLE use the same motor mount. Same part number. Sounds like someone just messed up the machining on the one you received.

 

[Mike'sGN-Kraton]

V1 outdrives are smaller that the v2.... i have a v1 here that I verified with....The fid center section I got recently said it was for v1/v2.... nope, I had the guy in honing @ work open it up for me.... so I'd say maybe you got an early version? What exactly do you need the aluminum motor mount? I should have one hanging around.... LMK, Mike

 

[parcou]

V1 and V2 DBXLE use the same motor mount. Same part number. Sounds like someone just messed up the machining on the one you received.

IKR, I looked up the V1 last night and was blown away. The part numbers are exactly the same. I have a stock center diff; it will not pass through on the LHS one I got. I am sure Jenny's will be right since it is V2. I believe it is the same as you.

V1 outdrives are smaller that the v2.... i have a v1 here that I verified with....The fid center section I got recently said it was for v1/v2.... nope, I had the guy in honing @ work open it up for me.... so I'd say maybe you got an early version? What exactly do you need the aluminum motor mount? I should have one hanging around.... LMK, Mike

The stock motor mount is aluminum and holds the center diff...well at least one end of it

I hate setbacks, but I did get the new knuckles on. I do not like a lot of upgrades, but I have seen videos on the hub arm part connecting the turnbuckle break, and some split the hub itself. Something I do on all my 6S bashers anyway so did it here

I did locktite the CVD grub screw that sits in the pin slot inside the joint. It had nothing on it and one side was ready to come part if not addressed.

 

[Moirae]

IKR, I looked up the V1 last night and was blown away. The part numbers are exactly the same. I have a stock center diff; it will not pass through on the LHS one I got. I am sure Jenny's will be right since it is V2. I believe it is the same as you.


The stock motor mount is aluminum and holds the center diff...well at least one end of it

I hate setbacks, but I did get the new knuckles on. I do not like a lot of upgrades, but I have seen videos on the hub arm part connecting the turnbuckle break, and some split the hub itself. Something I do on all my 6S bashers anyway so did it here

I did locktite the CVD grub screw that sits in the pin slot inside the joint. It had nothing on it and one side was ready to come part if not addressed.

View attachment 354054View attachment 354055

I've heard many people say that is a needed upgrade as well so I bought them. Still haven't broken the ones that came on my rig but I bought the upgraded alu ones anyway haha. I would say metal bulkhead is a needed upgrade too but I think that only applies if you are going to leave the ground at all. iirc you like to stay planted so I think you get to skip out on that upgrade.

 

[parcou]

DBXL-E 2.0 folks

Did any of you do FastEddy "Droop Screw Bump Stops" on the chassis? If so, like or dislike?

I ran across a video on this product, but it's a mod I always do with M2C droop screws to keep them from eating into my chassis on the 6S rigs. I never did a drill & tap, but it was not hard. I wish I had taken a pic before I did the drilling. The rear was digging into the chassis. The front was shallow and just at the beginning of breaking in.

I did add loctite to finish it off