Anyone interested in the new Redcat KAIJU MT 1/8

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slick2500 said:
:facepalm:

This post is exactly what I was talking about earlier, you cannot see the hypocrisy in your posts and that is what is pissing people off. Just please stop you aren't going to convince anyone that the Kaiju is worse than any other vehicle on the market.

I'm going to say this once and one time only there is no perfect rc brand or model all of the brands have their own issues, all of them break and not a single one of them gives a rats behind if you like them or not.
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I know that I have dissuaded many from going the Redcat route. Why shouldn't I do this based on my experience with the Redcat Brand. Many come here curious about an inexpensive 6S RC rig because there is an "Interest" as the title of this threads states or implies. There's an elephant in the room. I know its not myself. No hypocrisy here. Nada. Just my opinions. My opinion explained in many different ways. There are also very good tips and creativity offered on this thread if you find yourself with a Kaiju. I would never poo poo that at all. I never said that Redcat Kaiju is the worst RC rig/Brand. I just say stay away and why. We are all grown men here. We can ultimately make our own choices. Many here on AF have relied on my exper. for help or guidance. I don't pretend to be the be all end all. I feel I am being responsible enough in return. Please PM me. Perhaps a phone call can clear this up. I don't like controversy.
Respectfully,
@SrC
MDRex said:
I’m still impressed, especially considering it cost me the same as my Rustler 4x4 VXL. I run it on 4s, which is still quite fun. I don’t jump too much, but the high speed crashes I’ve had show it to be pretty tough. And the parts I need are available and cheap.
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Yeah run it on 4S. You will stay ahead of the game for sure. User error will break parts in any rig. That's why the parts train is key with any brand of RC you choose.
 
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Dammit guys, you're making my head hurt with all the drama in this thread, buy the damm truck or not, it's a friggen $400 toy not a Ferrari.

Don't like the lack of part support or durability, don't buy it, as far as explosive power on 6S not being that of a "Notorious or Tekno", give me a break!
 
bicketybam said:
Stock for stock I don't find it any less durable than the Outcast 6S.
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I DID wrecked both on their maiden runs, although the O6S was back up the same day since it uses K6S parts. The Kaiju did survive until I blew the spur on the 3rd run. I only broke the bumper & steering rack before then & fixed both rather easily.
 
arrmadillo said:
Dammit guys, you're making my head hurt with all the drama in this thread, buy the damm truck or not, it's a friggen $400 toy not a Ferrari.

Don't like the lack of part support or durability, don't buy it, as far as explosive power on 6S not being that of a "Notorious or Tekno", give me a break!
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Please excuse me for not already having the (your) correct opinion... this ain't an echo chamber last time I checked
 
Megasty said:
Actually, IMHO it has more raw power than most 6s trucks out there. It simply has too much power on 6s, like running the ProMT 4x4 on 6s. It's VERY hard to keep it on the ground with the stock tires. I threw some Hoons on it, lowered it with zipties & it's a pure rocketship. But if you do that, make sure to turn down the steering dual rate or you can easily over-compensate it into a tumble bus :ROFLMAO:
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That's what makes it fun. 6s is just insane. I can literally backflip down the street endlessly if I wanted to ?. I might do that once I put the losi metal spur gear. I have the washers and bearings ready. All I need is time to do it
slick2500 said:
:facepalm:

This post is exactly what I was talking about earlier, you cannot see the hypocrisy in your posts and that is what is pissing people off. Just please stop you aren't going to convince anyone that the Kaiju is worse than any other vehicle on the market.

I'm going to say this once and one time only there is no perfect rc brand or model all of the brands have their own issues, all of them break and not a single one of them gives a rats behind if you like them or not.
Click to expand...
I guess he made you mad again ?
bicketybam said:
Stock for stock I don't find it any less durable than the Outcast 6S.
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The biggest flaw is the material on the plastic spur, but it's easy to replace with the losi one. ?. The rest of the drivetrain is pretty durable. Bearings on the outside of the drive cups and motor fans. Good to go. Even the diffs are very tough.
 
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Armarookie43 said:
The biggest flaw is the material on the plastic spur, but it's easy to replace with the losi one. ?. The rest of the drivetrain is pretty durable. Bearings on the outside of the drive cups and motor fans. Good to go. Even the diffs are very tough.
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The diffs seem to be some cheap pot metal but they ARE completely 1/8 scale, shimmed, mostly empty, & large enough to be more than adequate for the truck, even on 6s. With all the hell I've given this thing, the drivetrain has handled it, less the spur, single drive cup that got chewed up when I screwed up an arm mod & popped a dogbone, & the mysterious CVA breakage that appeared to be a fluke. I doubled up the bearings on the drive cups just to make sure.
 
Need some advice for diff fluid. New to that aspect of the hobby. I run 4s and think I always will on this truck, and I have 3 spare spurs. I also have the punch set lower than stock, but may set it higher since it wont easily pull a wheelie. What diff fluids would be recommended to help keep the front end down once it’s moving and landed any wheelie it pulls?
 
MDRex said:
Need some advice for diff fluid. New to that aspect of the hobby. I run 4s and think I always will on this truck, and I have 3 spare spurs. I also have the punch set lower than stock, but may set it higher since it wont easily pull a wheelie. What diff fluids would be recommended to help keep the front end down once it’s moving and landed any wheelie it pulls?
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It's impossible, really. The truck has a direct connection between the center & rear diff, with a very long center dogbone to allow the least amount of power bleed to the front as possible. Yet anything lower than 1mil center will have the front wheels balloon like crazy. I have my center stuffed with earplugs & there's still slight power bleed, but it's only noticeable when I turn it on its top & trigger it slowly to full. But I run 100k, earplugs, 100k
 
Megasty said:
It's impossible, really. The truck has a direct connection between the center & rear diff, with a very long center dogbone to allow the least amount of power bleed to the front as possible. Yet anything lower than 1mil center will have the front wheels balloon like crazy. I have my center stuffed with earplugs & there's still slight power bleed, but it's only noticeable when I turn it on its top & trigger it slowly to full. But I run 100k, earplugs, 100k
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Thanks, still learning about how the drivetrains work on these and the effect different fluids make. Reducing ballooning would be good enough for me.
 
I'm done putting the losi spur gear together but I noticed that the diff was too tight, so I removed the shim behind the sun gear. Did anyone else have to leave that shim out?
20200717_010538.jpg
 
Hey I just saw Razors review. For anyone that owns a Kaiju, do u also get dirt in your undercarriage and diffs? Wondering if his was a one off or if it's a common issue.
 
jlatimore3 said:
Hey I just saw Razors review. For anyone that owns a Kaiju, do u also get dirt in your undercarriage and diffs? Wondering if his was a one off or if it's a common issue.
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I get a little bit but not much. Nothing alarming.
 
Pat_ranch said:
After watching a couple of bicketybam's videos, I give this rig more respect. Just wanted to throw that out there so nobody thinks I'm a poorly informed, opinionated turd
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Thanks!
 
I just got a alert the RC planet just got stock. I hope my replacement gets shipped soon.
 

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