It took an eternity but I finally got around to making this one:
Nice job ... happily the aluminum upper arms came back in stock so I ordered a pair of those - but they don't look as Mad Max bulletproof as yours.
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It took an eternity but I finally got around to making this one:
The noise isn't a big deal when running, but it's a bit of a nuisance if I'm trying to work on it and I need to turn it on. It's also just "something to do" that allows me to experiment with some random parts from China. The ESC thing cost less than $3 and the wires that I bought to help wire it up will come in handy for other things like adding lights to other RC cars.Just curious why you would want to throttle the fans???? The Noise bothers you?
Let them just be a passive device as intended. Full on.
I see no advantage.
I know you mention what parts you're using in the video itself, but it'd be really handy if you'd put links like this in the description of your videos. I suspect that your arms are better than the aluminum upgrades offered by Redcat. They're almost certainly stronger and the nylon rod in the middle might just give them that little bit of flexibility in just the right place that the aluminum ones won't have. On the downside, they look like they'd be harder to adjust when it comes to alignment, but at least camber alignment isn't super critical. All in all, it's a good video that clearly demonstrates how to duplicate your work and it looks easy enough that I may attempt it myself someday. Thanks for making it.
The plastic spur is a major weakness. Grab the steel one. The motor mount has 2 screws up at the top. The one closest to the motor is fixed in the perfect spot to provide proper mesh with the stock gearing. The other screw with the lock nut is adjustable. If you change the gears then you just don't use the fixed screw.also just figured out i have a plastic spur, which is insane for a 6s truck.
youd think they would give you a steel spur out of the box.
my pinion looks like its wearing out alot and the mesh is quite loose and i don't see a way to set it tighter as the 2 set screws only have one position
I have to get around to finding all the links. I'm having a hard time finding the non-amazon links like the nylon rods. Zoro change their links too much.The noise isn't a big deal when running, but it's a bit of a nuisance if I'm trying to work on it and I need to turn it on. It's also just "something to do" that allows me to experiment with some random parts from China. The ESC thing cost less than $3 and the wires that I bought to help wire it up will come in handy for other things like adding lights to other RC cars.
I know you mention what parts you're using in the video itself, but it'd be really handy if you'd put links like this in the description of your videos. I suspect that your arms are better than the aluminum upgrades offered by Redcat. They're almost certainly stronger and the nylon rod in the middle might just give them that little bit of flexibility in just the right place that the aluminum ones won't have. On the downside, they look like they'd be harder to adjust when it comes to alignment, but at least camber alignment isn't super critical. All in all, it's a good video that clearly demonstrates how to duplicate your work and it looks easy enough that I may attempt it myself someday. Thanks for making it.
I added stuff to my cart on Amazon while I was watching the video so maybe these will help:I have to get around to finding all the links. I'm having a hard time finding the non-amazon links like the nylon rods. Zoro change their links too much.
The only problem with amazon is stuff NOT sold by them. You can get taken for a ride pretty fast by businesses with bad listings (who don't exist anymore). I only deal with direct resellers when it comes to industrial goods. Usually, companies who make the goods will have them listed on their website. Bulk providers like Zoro & Arrow are the best.I added stuff to my cart on Amazon while I was watching the video so maybe these will help:
Nylon rod: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08N45S...abc_N5ZY4VG2YPDKCFH0QDGQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Assortment of rivets: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07BDLH...abc_MFJF8C7Y92PTC6KK3JNW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
M4 35mm bolts: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XW5Y...abc_90NEHPKNPED6ECAFRM0J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Assortment of M5 bolts: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B072LTK...abc_XDA3VK4D533W88VM3S87?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
These plus the other links you posted and some washers and maybe the metric drill bits should do the trick.
I knew they was going to say to do some crap like that. So they have no idea if you rethread the plastic rod end, it will be cross-threaded & more likely to pull out. Come on Redcat. It's their dumb fault for making all the arms the same. One jump & it'll be done. But the common issue with these arms are that the turnbuckle ends up breaking since the metal is junk.The reply from Redcat support is:
"I apologize but all the threaded rods are the same thread set up, when installing the aluminum arms you simply flip the threaded rod and re-thread it into the plastic cutting the new thread direction. We have done this in house and recommended it to many people without issue."
I went ahead and "rethreaded" the rod end. Seems ok, I guess. The threaded rod seems to be an odd size. I measured it to be about 4.3mm with a digital caliper where it's threaded which means that it's M4.5. I even tried one of the M4 screws from the skid plate and the M4 was too small. I was flirting with the idea of buying some metal rod ends, but I'm not finding any that are M4.5 threads, so I guess I'll skip it unless I have problems with the nylon ones.
I went ahead and spent $8 on getting another set of the plastic arms. Hopefully one of them is properly threaded and I can swap it out. I'm probably not going to be as hard on my Kaiju as you are on yours, so I'm hoping this will hold up. If it doesn't, I'll try to explore some other options, but I think I'd have to step up to at least M6 to have enough material to rethread and I'm not sure I'm going to have a lot of luck finding new M6 rods. I'll worry about it later if it ever becomes an issue, and at that point, it may be time to build some Mad Megasty style upper arms instead.I knew they was going to say to do some crap like that. So they have no idea if you rethread the plastic rod end, it will be cross-threaded & more likely to pull out. Come on Redcat. It's their dumb fault for making all the arms the same. One jump & it'll be done. But the common issue with these arms are that the turnbuckle ends up breaking since the metal is junk.
The reply from Redcat support is:
"I apologize but all the threaded rods are the same thread set up, when installing the aluminum arms you simply flip the threaded rod and re-thread it into the plastic cutting the new thread direction. We have done this in house and recommended it to many people without issue."
I went ahead and "rethreaded" the rod end. Seems ok, I guess. The threaded rod seems to be an odd size. I measured it to be about 4.3mm with a digital caliper where it's threaded which means that it's M4.5. I even tried one of the M4 screws from the skid plate and the M4 was too small. I was flirting with the idea of buying some metal rod ends, but I'm not finding any that are M4.5 threads, so I guess I'll skip it unless I have problems with the nylon ones.
Hey man, just noticed the avatar - can you post up some pics or what kinda body that is. Looks cool!My battery straps keep ripping in half
I did land on the roof quite a few times and my 2 6200mah 3s batterys might be a little heavy.
Going to see the straps back together with my girls sewing machine and just try not to land upsidedown again lol
I am unimpressed with these aluminum upper arms:If you find some replacement rod ends, please post them here and I may get a set or two.
That's the 1st thing I tried with the same link I used the the steering. It flexed way too much & I ended up having to run 3 CVAs in the vice.I know this is going to sound like a stupid question but has anyone thought of just eliminating the upper arm all together and just use a camber link?
I am unimpressed with these aluminum upper arms:
View attachment 129532
Happened during a cartwheel off of a small jump. Not even using a big ramp or that big of a jump. Not only did the rod break, it's also going to need to be extracted.
I searched for a little while for a decent solution for the rods and rod ends but I didn't find any easy solution. I guess I will renew my efforts. The problem is that Redcat seems to have used a rare 4.5mm thread. I will probably have to go up to 6mm. If I buy a 6mm rod end, it looks like it will come with a 6mm eye when we need a 3mm eye. I am afraid that a 3mm rod end will be too thin if I bore it out to 6mm. Basically it's a bit of a mess, and I am starting to think that the DIY arms by Megasty is the better way to go.
Also I think I am going to give Redcat a piece of my mind about these "upgraded" aluminum arms. They really should have included thicker rods and the rod ends.
I purchased one thru amazon, and I was on the fence on whether I would keep it or not. I've decided as of yesterday to send it back and here's why..It looks like it's going to be nice. Only $399 too. Thoughts? I've heard that their current bashers are not that durable. :
https://www.redcatracing.com/products/kaiju
Sounds like a "Solution" to me.I know this is going to sound like a stupid question but has anyone thought of just eliminating the upper arm all together and just use a camber link?
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