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I had the same steering problem out the box. The plastic nut would loosen & tighten itself all the time. I glued it in place then the spring ate into the nut as well, so I put a shim it the nut. The locking solution solved all that. Also the plastic Ackermann flexes like crazy when it gets worn in. I pestered Redcat for an aluminum version for months before they finally told me they were making one. I'm fairly hard on these trucks. Running it half to full throttle on 6s will completely destroy the stock truck even w/o jumping it . . . & it's finally to the point where it can survive a full throttle ground run. The stock components simply can't handle 6s full sends. Even perfect landings bend & break stuff.I made a quick (actually kinda long-ish) video of a steering issue I'm having. As well as a (one-sided) conversation about some parts I have on order.
I had the same steering problem out the box. The plastic nut would loosen & tighten itself all the time. I glued it in place then the spring ate into the nut as well, so I put a shim it the nut. The locking solution solved all that. Also the plastic Ackermann flexes like crazy when it gets worn in. I pestered Redcat for an aluminum version for months before they finally told me they were making one. I'm fairly hard on these trucks. Running it half to full throttle on 6s will completely destroy the stock truck even w/o jumping it . . . & it's finally to the point where it can survive a full throttle ground run. The stock components simply can't handle 6s full sends. Even perfect landings bend & break stuff.
That's nothing, some of us have quad digits into our Arrmas, for that price I could have built a Tekno.I gave up on trying to center the steering, it's a Redcat..never had one that would track straight?
I also locktite'd the pinion before I ever ran it. Didn't matter, came loose anyway. Thankfully the pinion can only walk so far before hitting the gearbox housing.
I went down a tooth on the pinion to hopefully cool the motor,which it did, but the motor mount didn't have enough adjustment to get proper mesh. I took the mount plate out and hit it with a die grinder. Mesh is good now, I left the button head screw out since it seems to hinder motor adjustment.
This truck is Redcats best in 1/8 scale to date IMO,but.. by the time you get it where it needs to be(for me), I coulda bought pretty much any other 1/8 basher for the time and money spent.
I built an MT410 for about $750. If I buy all of RC's aluminum bits, I'm at $700..
No regerts for me as I truly enjoy making it better/stronger with my own hands.
That doesn't seem right for the steering, first I have ever seen anyone complain about that.Funny thing is that I have more fun running the Kaiju than the Tekno.. I mean sure the Tekno is tougher and much more controlled overall,but the Kaiju is just plain fun to bash!
The turning radius of the Tekno is kinda pathetic.. needs a football field to make a circle?
Oh, and I DID build a Tekno for less than a fully upgraded Kaiju would cost with all thier aluminum bits.. I'm @$670 with my 410, but still grab the Kaiju first?
That's the one thing that keeps me from running it too often. That steering was made for small buggy tires. Translated to 3.8 Badlands & it may as well be a dump truck. Give me pillow balls any day. The Vitavon stuff I just put on my K8S & EXB rank as the 2 most expensive rigs I have with the K8S costing more than a typical beater - but I would have to blow it up to break it which is a far cry from the mildly upgraded beast that got busted up on a big rock . . . & I still have to do the same to my O8S, still in the box, still undriven. If it saw the abuse my K8S can take, it would probably be broken right out the box like my X-Maxx wasThe turning radius of the Tekno is kinda pathetic.. needs a football field to make a circle?
Thanks for posting the pic. I'd have to dig out the stock arms that my truck came with to verify, but I'm guessing I probably have the updated parts already..great to know that RC is actually continuing to develop this truck.
The lower arms definitely needs beefing up. I made the mistake of boiling the first set & ruining them. I was able to bend the arm into a perfect U I'm surprised RC didn't go the full aluminum route of arms, shock towers, & bulkheads. I would shell out for the last 2 instantly & even be willing to try the aluminum arms, especially if they're 7075, but only if I had the 7075 towers & bulkheads - otherwise the hinge pin holders would rip out on the slightest tumble. I haven't had any steering issues since I changed out the plastic parts & upped the servo.Thanks for posting the pic. I'd have to dig out the stock arms that my truck came with to verify, but I'm guessing I probably have the updated parts already..great to know that RC is actually continuing to develop this truck.
Hopefully they can address the underlying problem which I believe is the lower arms..just too much flex for the axles to take. IMO.
It's a balancing act between rigidity and flex..
For sure the towers and bulkheads? Just adding more material to the plastic arms would fix them. I generally avoid aluminum arms as they tend to be too rigid. I added the bits to them since I haven't found a feasible alternative.The lower arms definitely needs beefing up. I made the mistake of boiling the first set & ruining them. I was able to bend the arm into a perfect U I'm surprised RC didn't go the full aluminum route of arms, shock towers, & bulkheads. I would shell out for the last 2 instantly & even be willing to try the aluminum arms, especially if they're 7075, but only if I had the 7075 towers & bulkheads - otherwise the hinge pin holders would rip out on the slightest tumble. I haven't had any steering issues since I changed out the plastic parts & upped the servo.
The turning radius of the Tekno is kinda pathetic.. needs a football field to make a circle?
I did? One of the few times I ever follow DEstructions?Did you build the Tekno MT410 diffs with 100k/50k diff fluids? That viscosity is just bonkers, I built mine to 40k/20k, it turns really well.
the out drive on the center diff.OK, so I picked up a set of the Extreme RC Precision cup covers that come in a set of 5 ... it's obvious where the first four go .. where does the fifth go? It is too big for the front diff input cup and while it fits the front center diff cup, the plastic tunnel on the chassis is too narrow to accommodate it.
Always love it when stuff doesn't come with instructions or diagrams.
What am I missing?
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