Kraton Anything wrong with doing this?

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Haha:(
I kind of expected it comming and deserved that one. Im just trying to learn.
What I am learning is you cant stop these things breaking if you bash. Went for a bash at bmx track today after some extensive upgrades; shimmed, tower brace, tbone front and back. Didnt even get 10 min into it. Bent chassis, centre-back drive shaft popped out wheelie-wheel missing, body is basically unusable. Im very new to this and a poor driver but the breaks im having doest align with my definition of tank.
 
Haha:(
I kind of expected it comming and deserved that one. Im just trying to learn.
What I am learning is you cant stop these things breaking if you bash. Went for a bash at bmx track today after some extensive upgrades; shimmed, tower brace, tbone front and back. Didnt even get 10 min into it. Bent chassis, centre-back drive shaft popped out wheelie-wheel missing, body is basically unusable. Im very new to this and a poor driver but the breaks im having doest align with my definition of tank.
Im right there with you but everyone swears the outcast is one of if not the best out there. So just repair it and eventually it will stop breaking im hoping lol. Ive been having a pain in the butt with diffs and shafts and eyelets and the wing and bumper too .mostly just because of cartwheeling it on grassy turns.....the diff issue came from only 3 small little jumps but it could have been my fault on the install. Ive torn it down and rebuilt it with no damage inside so maybe it will work this time
 
Yeah, they are tough, but if you can't control them, you will break them. I tell people that are new to RC to run these trucks on 4s, not 6s. $s gives good controllable power, still loads of fun. 6s breaks poop, unless you have very good control over your truck. And even then, you will break.

To the OP - Check out Lumidav35 on Ebay for parts.
 
These Louise MT Mcross dwarf the badlands but I cant use them up front because steering sucks. I just had a run and it seems ok but looks a bit disproportionate.
Ive never seen this before on 4wd. Any reason why I shouldnt?
Hi,
I did this exact thing (Louise ST Mcross front for steering traction and Dboots rear). Only drove on dirt. Figured the difference in wheel dia would be ok. However this stripped both front and rear diff pinions and crown gears in about 10/packs.
The Louise St MCross are awesome for grip, awesome!!!!!! but you need 6 x fans and an 8s esc and castle motor. Also at least 555oz servo to steer them. I blew 4x esc’s learning this. Now I run 3.8“ Proline trenchers which are about 80% as good as the Louise Mcross but the Louise balloon heaps. Louise also are destrying the park across the road.
conclusion: not mix tyre diameters, even by a smidge.
Tuff Truck.
 
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Yeah don't do this.
I was doing that too....and I was wondering the SAME thing ...I spent too much money on this Kraton so ..I do like the way it looks and the way it performed with the larger tires in back .. but if I'm gonna run large tires ... I just run all four.... I never see the top racers do this ...so I think it's because it's not a good idea ...🙂
Yeah, they are tough, but if you can't control them, you will break them. I tell people that are new to RC to run these trucks on 4s, not 6s. $s gives good controllable power, still loads of fun. 6s breaks poop, unless you have very good control over your truck. And even then, you will break.

To the OP - Check out Lumidav35 on Ebay for parts.
Nah ...not true...Im a newb and I ran both ..and I sooo prefer the 6s... Just buy yourself a front bumper....and if you know how to drive ...you should be fine ... I was disappointed when I put the 4s...I was like ... Nope ..my cheetah run faster on the 4s than the Kraton... I noticed that real quick...the cheetah popped wheelies like nothing on 4 s...I can't get my kraton to do that on 4s... But the cheetah was cheap....and uncontrollable... Well you can control it ..but it flips around too easy ..but long story short ...6s!!!! And never look back!!!
 
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