Kraton Anything wrong with doing this?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Noticed the centre diff is leaking. I did recently put 80k in there so not sure if it was because of odd wheels or bad workmanship. Inspite of being dry the teeth looked ok i think. Ive put new oil in and see how she goes.
 
Well Ive persisted and I must say had a great bash today. I like how it goes; more rear wheel drive attitude, nice air control and soft landings. No doubt ill break something like the centre diff though.

I don't recommend doing this or u'l b holding your center diff like this. Then picking the internals and cleaning diff oil off of everything first hand experience on this.
 

Attachments

  • 20180221_154930.jpg
    20180221_154930.jpg
    157.7 KB · Views: 71
  • 20180221_154934.jpg
    20180221_154934.jpg
    191.3 KB · Views: 72
I don't recommend doing this or u'l b holding your center diff like this. Then picking the internals and cleaning diff oil off of everything first hand experience on this.

It still felt great to experiment though. I did the same with a Typhon, buggy badlands in the front, 2.8s in the rear. Same results with the melted exploded diff.
 
It's always fun to experiment but none of my local hobby shops have anything for the arrma so makes it so I have to order parts 3 or 4 of the same part at a time so if something happens I'm not down waiting for the mail. Most people tried this because they want to run bigger tires then realize a larger tire equals less turning ability. I'm running the trencher 3.8s on mine and they r really wide.i forgot to reset the endpoints on my steering when changing tires something almost everyone forgets at least once. Another thing i did to combat my loss in turning radius is took off the front sway bar. This will let u flat track and get more angle from left to right. If you do this you will b shocked at the way the trucks handling is altered by such a simple change. If doing large jumps I always hook my front sway bar back up so I don't blow my shock pistons out.
 
As mentioned it’s super bad news in 1:1 rigs so this can’t be good. You end up having 2 diffs spinning different speeds constantly. When we’re bashing all the tires are different speeds but it’s not constant. Someone mentioned a center getting hot......eeeeyeah!
 
All the different differential fluids in the world aren't going to change the gear ratios in differentials, period! When running smaller or bigger tires you change how the differential has to work, same as in the 1.1 world. These rc cars are designd around the 1.1's so they are very similar in a lot of ways. In the crawler rc crawler world they change differential gears for steering and rock crawling but not for bashing and speed. On any 4x4 or AWD, whether it's rc or 1.1, it's not recommended to run different tire sizes front to rear or rear to front, different gear ratios in differentials, because this won't let them work in union like they're designed to and causes lots of problems.
 
I did this in a 1/10 car for a minute and realized that the front tires were spinning just as fast as the rear tires were. I had put super heavy diff fluid in the center diff, it basically locked the center differential. So the fronts were in full time burn out mode, with no traction and the rear was just pushing the car around.
 
Thats what I was wondering too. Will it mess with the diffs? It does seem to wheelie a bit more. I thought it would translate to more back power which would be good I think.
The rear wheels (larger diameter) will cover significantly more ground than the front (smaller diameter). So spinning at the same speed (Rpm) your rear wheels will be pushing the front wheels. Which might explain the popping more wheelies than normal. Your center differential will suffer a little more abuse than normal from having different size tires on the front and rear.
 
Im going to give it a good go this weekend and let you all know
 
I wouldn’t do this on my RC’s that are 4x4 and have 3 diffs. however, some 1:1 4x4 rigs run a different gear ratio in their front axles. This will pull the front faster than the rear. It’s very slight difference.
 
I have no idea why i need to replace my diffs and shims already on just the 12th run? It seems to be fine to me although i haven't dissassembled the diffs yet either im sort of broke lol cant afford the 150k and all yet
 
It's not that you have to shim the diffs, but if you want them to last longer and perform better you should shim the diffs. These Arrma,s are great trucks right out of the box, but like all other RC's, especially Traxxas, there is room for improvement , whether it be for bashing or speed runs. Another thing to remember is that it cost big bucks to buy one of these RC's, and it also takes big bucks to maintain and repair them after unfortunate accidents or bad Landings. And for anybody to believe a company that advertises a Traxxas X Maxx as Unbreakable, hogwash, gets broken every time I take it out.
GO ARRMA
 
Cool good deal i will look into the shims at my local hobby shop. I just tore down an old nikko rc hummer h2 it was a huge awesome toy but its broken and im going to fit that hummer body onto my outcast i will post pics when its complete
 
Is there a video link on how to upgrade the shim or what diff parts and shim part numbers to look for? Im totally just learning about this part of everything. I thought the battery detail was mind blowing now all this
 
It melted as warned
Hate to be the first, but, "we tried to warn you, told you so"............lol. Just poking some fun at you. Sorry to hear that, hope you get it fixed soon.
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top