Differential oil weight tips

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I'm new to the Kraton but not to 1/8 scale buggy racing. So why does most people want 100,000 weight or higher in the center diff? What is different than an 1/8 scale racing truggy on this truck? Or would the same people want that high of weight just because you're not on a racing track? Which goes back to the first question, what does it do better for this truck? Is it just because of the 6s power? I know you can bash with an 1/8 scale racing truggy too. I'm assuming here so correct me. Im wanting to buy some diff fluid for my initial frills but need more info. Thanks for any info.

6s power has a lot to do with it. With 100k or less, the center diff will really unload the power to the front wheels and cause the tires to really balloon. The heavier center diff oil helps prevent this.
 
So I need to stay close to 100k in center if I'm gonna use 4s and 6s and use close to normal weights for front and rear diffs like 20 front 10 rear or at most 10k more than this? It's possible that I run this Kraton on a race track every now and then.
 
Short answer, in racing you are using a LOT less power, and when you get on WOT it is for half to one second for a jump run up, or 1-2 seconds down a main straight. In bashing, you are WOT a lot, and often with 6s.

FWIW, I run my Kraton and Typhon at the track as much as off road. I run 10k,125k,10k. Maybe not the best track setup, but it works, and works for my 4s bashing. If you want to 6s bash, you will need heavier diff fluids, and that will be a bigger negative on the track.

Or buy an extra set of diffs. One with 5k-10k-5k for 4s track days, one with 50k-300k-50k for 6s bashing days. It takes what, 15 minutes to swap all three diffs, if you have assembled diffs ready to go?
 
The power going through the center diff will travel the path of least resistance front to rear, and with weight transfer on higher center of gravity vehicles that means the rear tires will have much more grip than the front, sending more power to the front diff as a result. To even out power distribution front to rear, you'd use higher viscosity center diff fluid to force more power to the rear diff
 
Has anyone used traxxas 20m diff oil? Too thick?
I've heard of people dropping a silicone ear plug in there. How long would it take to get 20m out of the bottle? I have 1m, and you basically scoop it out with a stick, and wait a very long time for it to settle.
 
How long would it take to get 20m out of the bottle?

Not quite as bad as this stuff...

Screenshot 2018-12-27 21.42.56.png


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pitch_drop_experiment
 
Hit another snag with orders today, not realizing that there is different units for different manufactures, lucky enough as the company has emailed me to check the order over. Is there some way to determine the cst to wt to cp values?
 
With the white lithium grease everyone is talking about on here for on your gears (not in the diff itsealf ofcourse)...

What’s everyone using the tube version or the version that you can get in a can eg. below?..

Can get the can version pretty easy where I am.. not so much the tube.. is there any difference?..

02D22D13-2F25-40B7-BE30-06BF841C40F0.png
 
I don't believe theres a difference no, White grease is white grease... yours just comes in a pressurized can where i'm forced to squeeze mine out of a tube.

Messy either way :D But still the same stuff.
 
I don't believe theres a difference no, White grease is white grease... yours just comes in a pressurized can where i'm forced to squeeze mine out of a tube.

Messy either way :D But still the same stuff.
Yeah I guess so... just thought it maybe a little more viscous coming out of a pressurised can (given that it has to be forced through a tiny hole to be despatched from the can) instead of a toothpaste style tube...

I’ll give it a go... can’t really go wrong at only a 8 bucks a can anyway... if it’s crap i’ll turf it.
 
Yeah I guess so... just thought it maybe a little more viscous coming out of a pressurised can (given that it has to be forced through a tiny hole to be despatched from the can) instead of a toothpaste style tube...

I’ll give it a go... can’t really go wrong at only a 8 bucks a can anyway... if it’s crap i’ll turf it.

Just be careful about over spray. I have a couple cans for other purposes. For RC I’d prob go with a tube to control the mess and it is easier to go thicker if you need to......but give it a go and let us know how it works out, maybe it will be great
 
I use the spray just because it's all I have, and I'm too lazy to go get non spray. I can honestly say, it is a annoying when it sprays out super fast and it actually ricochets off of the parts and comes back at me or settles in an area I don't need it. It also seems to dry up over time, but maybe I'm just not putting enough on. I'd advise just getting the non aerosol stuff if the option is there.
 
Bicycle dry chain lube is good for open areas where dirt can mix into the lube, dog bones for example.
 
I use the spray just because it's all I have, and I'm too lazy to go get non spray. I can honestly say, it is a annoying when it sprays out super fast and it actually ricochets off of the parts and comes back at me or settles in an area I don't need it. It also seems to dry up over time, but maybe I'm just not putting enough on. I'd advise just getting the non aerosol stuff if the option is there.
Yeah the option for the non aerosol stuff is there but it means ordering it online and paying for postage and handling... whereas the aerosol version I can get down at my local hardware store, it’s cheaper and obviously no P&H..
 
These are the two that I use all around my rigs. The dry graphite for metal to metal, and the silicone spray everywhere else. 3'N'1 for the bearings, just a drop, or sewing machine oil (thinner the better).
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