Differential vs track width

[MrWednesday]

Here’s a question for the more enlightened nerds:
Does a wide wheel track equal more work for the differential? Meaning of more narrow wheel track would put less strain on the diff? Or am I retarded?

 

[Dan B.]

I‘m not sure if track would make that much difference IRL but a more narrow wheel/tire combo (less rotational mass and less grip) would certainly put less strain on a diff as well as on axles/CVD’s, hubs, etc. That said, if it’s an open diff to begin with and set up well then I don’t think there should be much difference? If it’s a locked diff or an LSD, then I could see it being the case for sure.
If splitting hairs and going for a completely theoretical conversation, then it could make a difference when turning “lock to lock” because on a wider track the inside wheel would be spinning more slowly and the outer wheel would be spinning faster than on a commensurately more narrow track when negotiating the same radius. But it seems to me the differences would still be fairly negligible.
Interesting question.
What say y’all?

 

[MrWednesday]

I‘m not sure if track would make that much difference IRL but a more narrow wheel/tire combo (less rotational mass and less grip) would certainly put less strain on a diff as well as on axles/CVD’s, hubs, etc. That said, if it’s an open diff to begin with and set up well then I don’t think there should be much difference? If it’s a locked diff or an LSD, then I could see it being the case for sure.
If splitting hairs and going for a completely theoretical conversation, then it could make a difference when turning “lock to lock” because on a wider track the inside wheel would be spinning more slowly and the outer wheel would be spinning faster than on a commensurately more narrow track when negotiating the same radius. But it seems to me the differences would still be fairly negligible.
Interesting question.
What say y’all?

So basically it would be doing more work on a high speed tight turn with good traction but we’re talking insignificant and not wroth adjusting for? I have them you can MBX8TR eco and the MBX8R eco and I was just wondering if maybe I ought to put slightly thicker fluid in the buggy… but seems like a no or a mild maybe?

 

[gotnitro]

So basically it would be doing more work on a high speed tight turn with good traction but we’re talking insignificant and not wroth adjusting for? I have them you can MBX8TR eco and the MBX8R eco and I was just wondering if maybe I ought to put slightly thicker fluid in the buggy… but seems like a no or a mild maybe?

Excellent choice! Did you build them to Mugen spec outta the box?

 

[Garcbomber]

Centripetal force increase, on scale it is dependent on quite a few variables being mainly wheel/tire mass and grip along with the diff to rotational drive distance.

Same with length from motor to center diff to front/rear, all percentage of power loss(drivetrain) through transfer. ICE automotive 1 scale passenger vehicles will lose 15-30% through automatic transmission to tire from the crankshaft horsepower. Again lots of variables…

That’s why EV with a motor on each drive wheel are more efficient, even though their methods of charging/battery manufacturing is all debatable evolution of technology.

 

[MrWednesday]

Excellent choice! Did you build them to Mugen spec outta the box?

I didn’t build them, they came from a guy who’d given up on racing, came with so many parts it took me 13 hours to sort through it all and reorganize it. Now I’m in the process of identifying parts, I have so many buggy and truggy arms some from the 7 series, links, springs, lower suspension hangers I counted 17 of them just for the rears, carbon fibre shock towers, knuckle couplings, chassis bracing, one piece motor mounts, 4 extra chassis (2T 2B) 4 sets of steering knuckle and rear hubs, about 15 - 20 outdrives, 3 nitro motors a castle 6S setup… honestly I’m missing so much. It’s overwhelming. I’m just staring to sort out all the 7 and 8 stuff. I’m going to build out a 3rd MBX7T but I’m not yet sure I can call it R spec lol.

 

[Dan B.]

So basically it would be doing more work on a high speed tight turn with good traction but we’re talking insignificant and not wroth adjusting for? I have them you can MBX8TR eco and the MBX8R eco and I was just wondering if maybe I ought to put slightly thicker fluid in the buggy… but seems like a no or a mild maybe?

OK, this is where I’ll respectfully bow out of the conversation and defer to those guys who race and have the expertise to really, properly balance these cars for nuanced surfaces with careful diff building and setup. I ain’t at that level.

 

[gotnitro]

I didn’t build them, they came from a guy who’d given up on racing, came with so many parts it took me 13 hours to sort through it all and reorganize it. Now I’m in the process of identifying parts, I have so many buggy and truggy arms some from the 7 series, links, springs, lower suspension hangers I counted 17 of them just for the rears, carbon fibre shock towers, knuckle couplings, chassis bracing, one piece motor mounts, 4 extra chassis (2T 2B) 4 sets of steering knuckle and rear hubs, about 15 - 20 outdrives, 3 nitro motors a castle 6S setup… honestly I’m missing so much. It’s overwhelming. I’m just staring to sort out all the 7 and 8 stuff. I’m going to build out a 3rd MBX7T but I’m not yet sure I can call it R spec lol.

If you’re planning on just driving or bashing them around the house ETC. you could go a bit heavier in the CD, just to keep the front from ballooning too much on high traction surfaces. Nice score! Those rigs are in my book the best made RC’s on the planet. That’s all I raced the last few years when I raced.

 

[MrWednesday]

If you’re planning on just driving or bashing them around the house ETC. you could go a bit heavier in the CD, just to keep the front from ballooning too much on high traction surfaces. Nice score! Those rigs are in my book the best made RC’s on the planet. That’s all I raced the last few years when I raced.

I gotta say, I know this is Arrma forum, and I’m a huge Arrma fan, but man… these Mugens aren’t even on the same planet as the Kraton or the Typhoon. Not even the same solar system. Galaxy even lol. The way they handle, and the quality and selection (and price even) of the oem parts… refuckingdiculius. I was blown away when I went from the 8S Kraton to the 6S Kraton (yes I started with 8S) but I was just as blown away when I went from a heavily modified 6S Kraton to the MBX8T eco not even fully R spec yet. The thing came with a 20g weight near the end of the chassis. That’s how balanced this guy had this thing. To be fair, the MBX8TR is $1000 CAD, Just for the the roller! But I think this is one instance where you actually get what you pay for, not like the new Losi products or ANY Spektrum products.