Does locktite "go bad"?

[The Bean]

I've had some licktite on my wheel hub for a week, and it still is wet (not even sort of dry). It's from an old-ish (4 yrs?) bottle.

 

[RCbuzz]

Loctite is typically anaerobic and dries in the absence of air. If it is still liquid just sitting on the hex that is probably okay but if it is still liquid on the contact points (between the nut and the hex) than something is wrong.

I have Loctite that is probably 7 years old, works fine still..

EDIT: From Google, LOCTITE Threadlockers work on anaerobic technology that hardens in the absence of air and presence of metal ions. So, when LOCTITE threadlockers are used on bolt and the nut is tightened, the liquid spread covering all the microscopic gap between the nuts and bolts and unitize them against loosening.

 

[SrC]

New one on me. If you used alot of it, will remain wet. It only cures when underpressure between the threads when torqued. Once Air is pushed out of the threads.
Maybe what you are seeing is excessive amounts not on the threads. Not sure if I understood you well. I guess But cheap TL can go bad. IDK.
I know if you leave a drop of TL on the bench , it will never dry up. Only hardens under pressure inside of threads.
I use Loctite 243. Oil tolerant Blue. Large bottle is cheapest in the long runs. My stuff never went bad. I had some old TL for years lying around. Might need to mix it up maybe. It can separate if anything. TL is expensive per oz. . I always wondered why. But you don't need much at all.

 

[slick2500]

I've had some licktite on my wheel hub for a week, and it still is wet (not even sort of dry). It's from an old-ish (4 yrs?) bottle.

1. ‘Inactive’ metals like stainless steel, zinc, magnesium, or aluminum don’t promote anaerobic curing as well as ‘active metals’ like iron.

https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/...matex-inc-8-most-common-threadlocker-mistakes

 

[SrC]

I used LT Blue on my anodized alloy wheel hexes, too much so, and I had a hard time getting the nuts off. With heat. So much heat that I melted the stocker hubs.

 

[Cereal_killer]

New one on me. If you used alot of it, will remain wet. It only cures when underpressure between the threads when torqued. Once Air is pushed out of the threads.
Maybe what you are seeing is excessive amounts not on the threads. Not sure if I understood you well. I guess But cheap TL can go bad. IDK.
I know if you leave a drop of TL on the bench , it will never dry up. Only hardens under pressure inside of threads.
I use Loctite 243. Oil tolerant Blue. Large bottle is cheapest in the long runs. My stuff never went bad. I had some old TL for years lying around. Might need to mix it up maybe. It can separate if anything. TL is expensive per oz. . I always wondered why. But you don't need much at all.

Try mixing some blue with orange it’s almost as bad as 271! Require a bit of heat. I was running low and decided to mix them together. But as other have pointed out. Only sealed from air. And I’ve never seen lock tight just go bad.

 

[slick2500]

Try mixing some blue with orange it’s almost as bad as 271! Require a bit of heat. I was running low and decided to mix them together. But as other have pointed out. Only sealed from air. And I’ve never seen lock tight just go bad.

Makes me feel confident in still using my 10 year old tube of red

 

[@9G]

Earlier this summer I was losing pinions more frequently. I'm not a noob but far from an expert. I wasn't "maintaining" my Loctite bottle well by doing things like leaving the tip open and letting it sit for extended periods unattended. I noticed it got thicker and didn't flow as well. So I bought a new bottle and voila...pinion problem solved. I now make sure to close the bottle after each use and leave it sitting upright and not just laying around haphazardly. I also shake it up before each use. The new bottle is holding up pretty good...liquid flows well and holds better even when using small dabs.
I wouldn't say it goes bad but like anything else if you don't treat it right it won't do what you want it do. I use the blue 243 and I have some red that I only use on drive cups or spools. The 243 works on everything and only needs a little heat to be removed. My dad use to say: "Take better care of your stuff and it'll take care of you when you need to use it."

 

[slick2500]

I really want to start using either the gel stuff or the paste that comes in the chap stick tube.

 

[The Bean]

Thanks, guys! Never knew locktite drying was an anaerobic reaction. I took off the nut so it could dry easier .
Does heat (in my case, from a heating vent) speed up the drying? Reactions usually speed up when temperature increases.

 

[slick2500]

Thanks, guys! Never knew locktite drying was an anaerobic reaction. I took off the nut so it could dry easier .
Does heat (in my case, from a heating vent) speed up the drying? Reactions usually speed up when temperature increases.

No if anything it will make it take longer. Remember you use heat to remove thread lock.


-edit- I lied.

Yes, heat can help achieve faster cure. Typically one can heat cure LOCTITE threadlockers at 125 degrees celsius for 1 hour, or go as low as 66 degrees celsius for 3 hours.

-edit2- Also found this little tidbit.

-edit3- Looked over the data sheet for Blue 242 and it does in fact say 24 months unopened but does not state anything about once it is opened. https://dm.henkel-dam.com/is/conten...Blue-242-Carded-Tube-0.20-fl-oz-2018-04-09pdf


Lot Code Explanation: 7GAA2230 Y= Last digit of year of manufacture (7= 2017) G= Month of Year (1=Jan., B= Feb., C= March, etc.) Example: 7G = July 2017

 

[Fireteam-User]

When using stainless bolts/nuts or when using them in something like an anodised aluminum part you can also use Loctite SF 7649 activator
It's a smallish spray can, and helps with curing of loctites on the beforementioned harder to threadlock materials

 

[slick2500]

When using stainless bolts/nuts or when using them in something like an anodised aluminum part you can also use Loctite SF 7649 activator
It's a smallish spray can, and helps with curing of loctites on the beforementioned harder to threadlock materials

They mention using the activator in that link I posted about common thread locker mistakes.

 

[SrC]

Earlier this summer I was losing pinions more frequently. I'm not a noob but far from an expert. I wasn't "maintaining" my Loctite bottle well by doing things like leaving the tip open and letting it sit for extended periods unattended. I noticed it got thicker and didn't flow as well. So I bought a new bottle and voila...pinion problem solved. I now make sure to close the bottle after each use and leave it sitting upright and not just laying around haphazardly. I also shake it up before each use. The new bottle is holding up pretty good...liquid flows well and holds better even when using small dabs.
I wouldn't say it goes bad but like anything else if you don't treat it right it won't do what you want it do. I use the blue 243 and I have some red that I only use on drive cups or spools. The 243 works on everything and only needs a little heat to be removed. My dad use to say: "Take better care of your stuff and it'll take care of you when you need to use it."

Yeah, the 243 is like the 242, strength wise. And I prefer 243. Oily, dirty screws will stand a much better chance with 243. Being it's oil tolerant. But all fasteners need to be very clean, like Grub screws on the pinions, for best results. And best to let it cure for 24 hours before running. A drop on the first 3-4 threads is all you need. I may even place a drop on the bottom of the Grub screw where it contacts the Armatures " Flat", if its an old one causing me problems. Grubs are consumable parts, and need replacing at some point. Good to have spares on hand. I can't remember the last time a pinion loosened on me. A good "purchase" with a known quality Hex driver matters.

 

[slick2500]

Yeah, the 243 is like the 242, strength wise. And I prefer 243. Oily, dirty screws will stand a much better chance with 243. Being it's oil tolerant. But all fasteners need to be very clean, like Grub screws on the pinions, for best results. And best to let it cure for 24 hours before running. A drop on the first 3-4 threads is all you need. I may even place a drop on the bottom of the Grub screw where it contacts the Armatures " Flat", if its an old one causing me problems. Grubs are consumable parts, and need replacing at some point. Good to have spares on hand. I can't remember the last time a pinion loosened on me. A good "purchase" with a known quality Hex driver matters.

I actually stopped putting the thread lock on the grub screw and started just putting it in the hole and I too cannot remember the last time I had a pinion come loose, might have been 4 years ago or more now.

As per Henkel.
Application:
For Thru Holes: Apply several drops of the product onto the bolt at the nut engagement area.
For Blind Holes: Apply several drops of the product down the internal threads to the bottom of the hole.

 

[SrC]

You are correct sir.
The best way is to introduce the threaded hole with TL.
Sometimes I will add Locktite to the grub, screw it in, then out, once or twice, This guaranties best thread coverage.

 

[Cereal_killer]

I really want to start using either the gel stuff or the paste that comes in the chap stick tube.

I’ve been using it. I absolutely love it!

 

[slick2500]

I’ve been using it. I absolutely love it!

View attachment 263601

The gel or the chap stick?

 

[Cereal_killer]

The gel or the chap stick?

Gel sir. I have not tried the chapstick stuff. But I’m a big fan of the Gel over the liquid when it something that requires a more precise? I guess that how I would word it.. for example the trident setup instead of running a risk of liquid running down into the bearings

 

[arrmadillo]

Have a couple tubes of blue, really old but still works fine, little goes a long way.