*Don't WD-40 the rig when it's parked

[Relimar]

I've been doing this with tools and *shouldn't be doing it with RC's.
WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, 40th formula, that's why wd-40 sucks as a bolt penetrant, but it keeps the tools and now the RC cars rust free. If/when you want to use them and it's getting on ya, just wipe it with a rag.

*Don't spray it on all the electronics and don't coat the whole thing. I just mean the suspension parts.. dogbones and screwheads and stuff.

*General consensus and some education about how corrosive it is to plastics, this appears not to be a good idea.

 

[PeighDay]

Avoid bearings as well

 

[GraniteFox]

I believe the standard WD-40 will attract dirt and is not very plastic safe. A better option is the WD-40 silicone or other silicone based spray. Provides much of the same benefits without potential problems. 100% agree it is great on tools.

 

[Tex Koder]

I believe the standard WD-40 will attract dirt and is not very plastic safe. A better option is the WD-40 silicone or other silicone based spray. Provides much of the same benefits without potential problems. 100% agree it is great on tools.

That is true..
It will eventually breakdown the plastic because of the petroleum distillates.

 

[XplicitRC]

That is true..
It will eventually breakdown the plastic because of the petroleum distillates.

Wow good to know I been using WD to clean the rigs after, which is better to use brand wise?

 

[gotnitro]

Wow good to know I been using WD to clean the rigs after, which is better to use brand wise?

Simple green or Windex on plastics for me, no WD on or near bearings. No WD at all.

WD gets into bearings and dilutes the grease inside the race, melts it away with use. You'll find yourself replacing bearings quicker.

 

[Tex Koder]

Wow good to know I been using WD to clean the rigs after, which is better to use brand wise?

Simple green or Windex on plastics for me, no WD on or near bearings. No WD at all.

WD gets into bearings and dilutes the grease inside the race, melts it away with use. You'll find yourself replacing bearings quicker.

I use a compressor to blow out the majority of the crud/grass/rocks..
Then I use a 50/50 mix of Simple Green to clean out the fine dust/mud with an old toothbrush
and blow dry with compressor again.

 

[slick2500]

Some guy on book face told me that Simple Green also damages the plastic.

 

[Tex Koder]

Some guy on book face told me that Simple Green also damages the plastic.

Perhaps if it's at 100% concentration..
Doesn't have to be full strength to clean off dust and dirt..

Dilute it (cleaning solution to water) - 25/75 or 50/50
Depending on how Long you wait -to get to cleaning your rigs after a bash...

 

[MrTitanium]

I use a mixture of Simple Green 50/50 water or Castrol Super Clean of the same amount. Remove the ESC and blast it all. Let it soak for 10 minutes.

I replace the bearings every season as I don’t waste time with cleaning and repacking them with oil (at $30 a kit, meh, not worth the headache).

Also, owning a compressor in this hobby is a must, imo.

 

[sumguy75]

I use Tuff Stuff foaming cleaner on my rigs for clean up. Spray it on until everything is foamed up nicely. After that I use a brush on the suspension arms/shocks, then cordless air duster to blow the foam away and dry it off.

Also, owning a compressor in this hobby is a must, imo.

For those in apartments or smaller spaces, a cordless air duster is a nice alternative to a compressor. Not as strong, but so far has been enough to get the job done on cleaning rc's. Heck I use it to "sweep" my back patio, lol.

 

[Tex Koder]

I use Tuff Stuff foaming cleaner on my rigs for clean up. Spray it on until everything is foamed up nicely. After that I use a brush on the suspension arms/shocks, then cordless air duster to blow the foam away and dry it off.

That's a tad pricey.. $14.99

Might as well just use Easy Off oven cleaner with Lemon scent $5.29 @ Target
,same kind of cleaner

 

[Moirae]

That is true..
It will eventually breakdown the plastic because of the petroleum distillates.

This must take 100 years to happen because I've yet to have a single problem. On the contrary it's been amazing and make the plastic look awesome.

 

[Tex Koder]

This must take 100 years to happen because I've yet to have a single problem. On the contrary it's been amazing and make the plastic look awesome.

It'll weaken the threads of the plastic where the pivot balls or M3/M4 screws would go ,for sure..
Perhaps not immediately that you can tell.. But it does weaken the area and will be Easier to strip out later on..

 

[Senton_Prime]

This must take 100 years to happen because I've yet to have a single problem. On the contrary it's been amazing and make the plastic look awesome.

I agree, been using it for like 3 years.. no degradation so far, must take a decade!!

My rigs still look new!!

 

[Johnny b]

Pro tip......do Not use gf's blow dryer on heat setting or you might melt an A-arm.

 

[hobo]

This must take 100 years to happen because I've yet to have a single problem. On the contrary it's been amazing and make the plastic look awesome.

thats what I thought been using wd40 for twenty years

 

[palmryde]

thats what I thought been using wd40 for twenty years

I too have been using wd40 for 10 plus years on all my cars to clean and looks great for the next run. I have witnessed no degradation ,or issues with bearings. Will continue to do so. I also use SC1 high gloss coating, keeps the bodies looking new.

 

[PeighDay]

If it works for you then don’t change it.

 

[GraniteFox]

Paint brush + leaf blower then wipe down with diluted simple green & silicone spray around the joints and rust type spots. I'm not going for showroom quality just a quick clean off.