Talion Droop screw install

[palmryde]

Can anyone tell how to install these droop screws? I cannot figure out what holds them in. Shouldn't there be threads on the OD that would screw into the a-arms? Am I missing something?

 

[norcalsc]

they do have threads just not in the picture. those same screws are in used on the infraction body and I wondered the same thing until i did some research

 

[Monster Dork]

Huh... it's utterly pretarded to do a CAD render of a screw and not show threads. You definitely want the droop screws with the hex at the little end. It makes it easy to reach.

 

[21STalion]

I used these ones. Kind of fragile though. ordered too many by accident and was glad I did. Already replaced 2. If the dog bone or CVD comes loose it can smash all kinds of things.

https://m2cracing.net/cars-and-trucks/500-m2c-9131-droop-screw-solid-mushroom-head-style.html

 

[Velodromed]

Can anyone tell how to install these droop screws? I cannot figure out what holds them in. Shouldn't there be threads on the OD that would screw into the a-arms? Am I missing something?

View attachment 218653

Where’d you find those?
Yeah I’ve seen those threadless screw renderings before. Goofy as all get out and mildly confusing.

 

[Vulthraxis]

I used these ones. Kind of fragile though. ordered too many by accident and was glad I did. Already replaced 2. If the dog bone or CVD comes loose it can smash all kinds of things.

https://m2cracing.net/cars-and-trucks/500-m2c-9131-droop-screw-solid-mushroom-head-style.html

Yeo thanks again something to add to my list for the talion XL rebuild.

 

[palmryde]

Yeo thanks again something to add to my list for the talion XL rebuild.

Dumb question, which way does it go in? Button hex end on top of arm or the bottom?

 

[Velodromed]

Dumb question, which way does it go in? Button hex end on top of arm or the bottom?

You install it underneath the arm so that the button head contacts the metal tab on the chassis and prevents the arm from going lower.

 

[palmryde]

You install it underneath the arm so that the button head contacts the metal tab on the chassis and prevents the arm from going lower.

That makes sense, thks

 

[Velodromed]

That makes sense, thks

No problem man. I just figured out how to do them a month ago so it’s fresh on my mind. Ended up spending the 16 bucks for the M2C ones. They can be adjusted from the top because the screw hurt itself is fit for hex. Not sure if it was worth 16 bucks but it’s definitely easier for adjusting. And the button heads don’t have a hex on them so there’s no sharp edges to bite into the chassis tabs.

 

[palmryde]

No problem man. I just figured out how to do them a month ago so it’s fresh on my mind. And up spending the 16 bucks for the NTC ones. They can be adjusted from the top because the screw hurt itself is fit for hex. Not sure if it was worth 16 bucks but it’s definitely easier for adjusting. And the button heads don’t have a hex on them so there’s no sharp edges to bite into the chassis tabs.

I broke an a-arm on the typhon, have the front end apart. The damage from the original droop screws in much less than I expected. Car is a V3 4+ years old. Been a great car. I will install (arrma ones) tonight because I already bought them. One less thing to worry about.

 

[parcou]

I used these ones. Kind of fragile though. ordered too many by accident and was glad I did. Already replaced 2. If the dog bone or CVD comes loose it can smash all kinds of things.

https://m2cracing.net/cars-and-trucks/500-m2c-9131-droop-screw-solid-mushroom-head-style.html

Love the fact there are a bit taller than the better updated Arrma droops and a bit wider head for the chassis. Those are worth the money swapped all my 6S rigs with those.

 

[PatMarcus172]

Love the fact there are a bit taller than the better updated Arrma droops and a bit wider head for the chassis. Those are worth the money swapped all my 6S rigs with those.

And can I now ask the noob question - why do we need them ? What do they do ? And are they important if you use the car as a basher ?
thanks

 

[Velodromed]

And can I now ask the noob question - why do we need them ? What do they do ? And are they important if you use the car as a basher ?
thanks

Prevents downwards over extension of the arms. I don’t know if they’re absolutely necessary but it makes sense. I jump my car a lot, not big jumps but just anything I can catch air off in the dirt. The constant overextending downwards of the arms will tax driveshafts and shock bottoms.

 

[parcou]

And can I now ask the noob question - why do we need them ? What do they do ? And are they important if you use the car as a basher ?
thanks

My Man explained it good. here is a video as well. If you have an option for droops and can save the stress off your shock ends, do it. When it comes to cars like my Infraction for drift or speed its needed to dial in the suspension. Infraction needs more than shock tuning, need to dial in the droops based on how you want to perform, drift or speed.

 

[SrC]

Need to take off the arms to install droop screws. Making sure it screws in straight. New Plastic arms don't come prethreaded. So you have to start the threads.
All the 6s rigs only use Sharp Grub screws as Droop screws out the box new. Some just use plain Button Head screws. No way to adjust them after installed. You will be replacing them with the new Droop Screws you have.
The Stock sharp Grub screws damages the Droop Ears of the alloy chassis. Ends up with holes into the chassis.
Best to use Proper droop screws. Because it is Domed and smooth at one end where it meets the Chassis Droop Ears.
Use a Digital Caliper to accurately measure Shock Droop from left to right. Fronts must be equal and Rears must be equal, in pairs.

 

[Velodromed]

Love the fact there are a bit taller than the better updated Arrma droops and a bit wider head for the chassis. Those are worth the money swapped all my 6S rigs with those.

Yep, I got them for my notorious and will be soon for my Kraton. The ability to adjust them from above is worth the $16 cost.

 

[PatMarcus172]

My Man explained it good. here is a video as well. If you have an option for droops and can save the stress off your shock ends, do it. When it comes to cars like my Infraction for drift or speed its needed to dial in the suspension. Infraction needs more than shock tuning, need to dial in the droops based on how you want to perform, drift or speed.

Finally got round to watching this properly and it really helps explain it, as does a Bars & Tone one I found. However, what this doesn't show is how to actually install new, better droop screws. Im still so new to wrenching on my talion that taking it apart fills me with fear. Ive failed to find any videos that help. Any suggestions ?

 

[Engineer]

Finally got round to watching this properly and it really helps explain it, as does a Bars & Tone one I found. However, what this doesn't show is how to actually install new, better droop screws. Im still so new to wrenching on my talion that taking it apart fills me with fear. Ive failed to find any videos that help. Any suggestions ?

Personally, I've found that by removing the shocks and the loosening the sway bar link, I can get enough articulation in the arms to install the M4 button head style droop screws (from the bottom). If you're struggling with it, best to remove the arms and do it. You want the screws to go in straight as @SrC mentioned above.

 

[SrC]

@PatMarcus172, don't be hesitant with taking your Talion apart. You will need to anyway down the road. Much sooner than you think. Part of RC. You will only learn by wrenching your rig. What took an hour will end up taking 15 minutes or less as you learn. Muscle memory rules when it comes to RC rigs.
Learn by doing, not by staring at it. Just be organized with your screws when dissassembling. Take pix before each wrenching task. Really helps. Blow up diagram and Manual in hand.
You can do this.
Wrenching is 80% of this hobby. Driving is 20%.
If you don't wrench, you can't drive.