Big Rock Factory vs My Mesh

SaltyLocal

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Can anyone tell me if the gear mesh in this brand new, never ran Big Rock was to loose from the factory? How does mine look? To tight? To loose? Perfecto? Thanks Ya’ll!

02C5E9F8-5A92-46FC-AA11-08A6B288AFA0.jpeg


26E03F48-708F-4696-884F-973CBD31F1D8.jpeg
 

Tex Koder

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Can anyone tell me if the gear mesh in this brand new, never ran Big Rock was to loose from the factory? How does mine look? To tight? To loose? Perfecto? Thanks Ya’ll!

View attachment 260891

View attachment 260892

From the photo, the factory looked okay.. blurry pic, hard to say with 100% certainty.

Yours-
Did you use the sheet of paper method or eyeballing?
Could be a tiny bit looser..
Does it make the expected "clicking" noise if you try to rotate the spur against the pinion?
 

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Believe it or not, proper mesh has a little "play" in it, so the factory setting is pretty spot on. You can also tune your gear mesh by sound. I know it sound funky, but it does work.

Agreed.
Once you have a bit more experience, you can & will adjust/tune it by feel and sound alone.
 

slick2500

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Believe it or not, proper mesh has a little "play" in it, so the factory setting is pretty spot on. You can also tune your gear mesh by sound. I know it sound funky, but it does work.
I always link to that video when people ask about setting gear mesh. (y)
 

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Can anyone tell me if the gear mesh in this brand new, never ran Big Rock was to loose from the factory? How does mine look? To tight? To loose? Perfecto? Thanks Ya’ll!

View attachment 260891

View attachment 260892
1. Place the other half of the power module back on.
2. With the hole on the bottom rock the spur back and forth (not enough to turn the motor)
3. Do you hear the satisfying click sound in both directions? If yes, rotate the spur 180degrees and check again. If not, your mesh it too tight.

You basically want it as close as possible but with the little click sound to indicate there is a small air gap between the pinion and spur.

Good luck! 👍

Once you practice a few times it will become second nature. I rarely find mesh from the factory I like.
 
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Camaroboy383

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Without the case on it’s hard to say. It appears tight, but I go by feel with the case on only.

👆 This ... hard to adjust proper mesh on these things without the other half of the module attached.. so I'd agree, hard to say...

Tighten the screws just enough to hold the motor still under its own weight.. Assemble the other half of the case without screws..

Twist the motor in towards the spur, check mesh by rocking the spur through the opening... Make sure you check for a "tick" 360 degrees around the spur..

Pull the module half, tighten the motor down and reassemble...👍
 

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Make sure you check for a "tick" 360 degrees around the spur..
⬆️ This is super important. One side could be perfect yet extremely tight on the other. It is better to be on the side of a little loose over too tight. After seven or eight packs the spur will ‘break in’ anyway and you can then readjust the mesh.
 

SaltyLocal

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From the photo, the factory looked okay.. blurry pic, hard to say with 100% certainty.

Yours-
Did you use the sheet of paper method or eyeballing?
Could be a tiny bit looser..
Does it make the expected "clicking" noise if you try to rotate the spur against the pinion?
Maybe a slight clicking noise. I’ll loosen it a tad more and check with the case on. I had already blue loctite it. Do you clean the old loctite off prior to bolting back in? I tried the paper method but it seemed a tad loose.
 

Tex Koder

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The spur gear itself is cheap ,so don't worry about it. It's designed as a consumable part.

So, just go out and Bash!
Have a great time!!

Later on disassemble and check to see how the gears are doing. You'll learn from that and Will have a real reference to what to lookout for from then on. 👍
 

Velodromed

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Maybe a slight clicking noise. I’ll loosen it a tad more and check with the case on. I had already blue loctite it. Do you clean the old loctite off prior to bolting back in? I tried the paper method but it seemed a tad loose.
Yes I clean any bolts and holes that will be loctited every time I do it. I’ve never done the paper method. Just go by feel. In 2 years I’ve trashed 1 spur gear between 5 cars and that was due to a bent motor mount. I’ve worn out just a couple more, they last a long time when set up well. The 3 composite spur gears Im running now are nearing 2 years old. Converted my other two cars to metal spurs since they are over powered.
 

slick2500

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Yes I clean any bolts and holes that will be loctited every time I do it. I’ve never done the paper method. Just go by feel. In 2 years I’ve trashed 1 spur gear between 5 cars and that was due to a bent motor mount. I’ve worn out just a couple more, they last a long time when set up well. The 3 composite spur gears Im running now are nearing 2 years old. Converted my other two cars to metal spurs since they are over powered.

Yup ideally you should remove all of the old thread locker before applying new thread locker as the old stuff prevents the new stuff from properly spreading.


Also I found this nice little tidbit of information online when looking up different types of thread locker and applications.
  1. ‘Inactive’ metals like stainless steel, zinc, magnesium, or aluminum don’t promote anaerobic curing as well as ‘active metals’ like iron so you should use Permatex Surface Prep Activator for Anaerobics on screws that are stainless steel or go into aluminum parts.
There is a lot of good information about thread lockers in this article for anyone that is interested https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/...matex-inc-8-most-common-threadlocker-mistakes
 

Velodromed

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Yup ideally you should remove all of the old thread locker before applying new thread locker as the old stuff prevents the new stuff from properly spreading.


Also I found this nice little tidbit of information online when looking up different types of thread locker and applications.
  1. ‘Inactive’ metals like stainless steel, zinc, magnesium, or aluminum don’t promote anaerobic curing as well as ‘active metals’ like iron so you should use Permatex Surface Prep Activator for Anaerobics on screws that are stainless steel or go into aluminum parts.
There is a lot of good information about thread lockers in this article for anyone that is interested https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/...matex-inc-8-most-common-threadlocker-mistakes
This is the second or third time I’ve heard that. Could explain why so many people have issues with screws backing out of aluminum, even when Loctite is used.
 

slick2500

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This is the second or third time I’ve heard that. Could explain why so many people have issues with screws backing out of aluminum, even when Loctite is used.
I just learned that today. I might have to look into getting some of that prep spray.
 

Velodromed

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I just learned that today. I might have to look into getting some of that prep spray.
$20 on Amazon. Not bad. I don’t have to many issues with it but if I ever do, I know what to do know.
 
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