Outcast Getting a new Outcast 4S V2, what are the recommended upgrades?

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Longer pivot pins for the A-Arms Part # ARA330731 stock is 63mm and they need to be 63.5
I was putting my truck togueter and i noticed the hinge pins that ckme on the v2 have rounded ends. The v1 and v2 have the same lengh of 62.8mm byt the rounded ends i believe makes the hinge pin holderbcompletely useless. My rear hinge pin on my v2 has a diameter of 4.5mm vs my 5 year old one i still have has a diameter of 4.1mm. So the QC seems to be off on hinge pins supports. The front one has 4.1mm diameter
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That's like ocd type stuff right there.. I can assure you the half a mm isn't missed at all.. this is far from a precision machine, and is treated as such.. a half a mm? Setup .5 mm on a micrometer and actually lay eyes on it.. miniscule at best, splitting hairs type stuff..
 
More importantly is that the pins are not rounded off. The rounded off pins will pull though the red aluminum block and break the chassis.
 
That's like ocd type stuff right there.. I can assure you the half a mm isn't missed at all.. this is far from a precision machine, and is treated as such.. a half a mm? Setup .5 mm on a micrometer and actually lay eyes on it.. miniscule at best, splitting hairs type stuff..

Looking at the stock only making it half way though the aluminum brace and being rounded....
I feel like he makes a good suggestion on getting the other pins. It may only be a hair different, but its an important hair.
I've noticed this on my truck and was concerned myself.
 
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I'll get these longer pins later, because of course they are on backorder... I don't think much will happen at first, but I can imagine that after some use with some wear on the pins they could indeed pull through.
 
Just my opinion and not specific to this thread, but --

If you can't figure out what upgrade an RC car needs...
... then it doesn't need any.
+!
Focus more on your driver skills. As you get better, you'll find that OE replacemnt parts are adequate for the most part.
Many jump immediatley to Alloy Upgrades, as a band-aid for poor drivng skills. Having barely 3 packs run with their new model , and broke many parts already. Some buy simply for the $Bling$ aspect. And have a hole in burning in their pocket. Then the next guy follows. A viscious cycle that supposedly promotes the hobby, and yet at times pushes many others aways from it.
I partly blame the many Upgrade brands and hard marketting and the RC industry on the whole for this. This is one reason why the RC hobby can be all too expensive to maintain. Leads to wallet burnout.
Some Upgrades are ok and are even "must haves" as "Fixes" for a bad mfr design execution in certain key areas.
If not sure, just replace with OE parts. How I fly.
 
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Just so it's understood, the 4S Outcast V2 is very close to the same size as the 6S Kraton. The 4SV2 and 6SV5 Kraton models are identical in size, with the 4S being the lighter of the two. The length of the Outcast is obvious shorter, but the track width is the same-ish.

I have not had any real problems with my 4SV2, aside from shattering the stock pinion. I pop the spring clips off the CVD's here and there but i think that has to do with the gravel we run on getting bound up in there and yeeting the spring off. I'm surprised to hear you didn't like the K6S EXB, that truck is insanely popular though so I suppose a lemon is inevitably going to pop up here and there.

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Just so it's understood, the 4S Outcast V2 is very close to the same size as the 6S Kraton. The 4SV2 and 6SV5 Kraton models are identical in size, with the 4S being the lighter of the two. The length of the Outcast is obvious shorter, but the track width is the same-ish.

I have not had any real problems with my 4SV2, aside from shattering the stock pinion. I pop the spring clips off the CVD's here and there but i think that has to do with the gravel we run on getting bound up in there and yeeting the spring off. I'm surprised to hear you didn't like the K6S EXB, that truck is insanely popular though so I suppose a lemon is inevitably going to pop up here and there.

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Well I had a lemon for the Kraton (at least the diff was), and then the guy I sold it to (who is also into racing and imo a much better driver than me) also struggled with the EXB diffs. And I mean, even if I'm the worst driver the diff shouldn't explode on the maiden run. I had a run of really bad luck just when I was getting into the hobby (with not just the Kraton, but basically everything I owned) so ultimately I got very fed up with all the wrenching just for 10 mins of running.

In the meantime the Outcast finally arrived and it's a very nice little truck, I think it's better suited for the amount of space I have around here. I had it out 3 times, and it's handling pretty well. It's pretty hard to reach top speed with it though, wants to pop wheelies all day long. :D

I definitely don't want to bling it out, just wanted to hear the opinion about where are the potential weakpoints.

I have only:
- replaced the stock pinion with a proper HD steel one
- replaced the stock servo with a higher torque one that I already had
- put some hard foam under the motor
- strengthened the body where the front tower hits it
- replaced the motor fan with a YR tornado
- set the punch to 5 - but I'm not sure it even needs it, it's already a wheelie monster on punch 4
 
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Well I had a lemon for the Kraton (at least the diff was), and then the guy I sold it to (who is also into racing and imo a much better driver than me) also struggled with the EXB diffs. And I mean, even if I'm the worst driver the diff shouldn't explode on the maiden run. I had a run of really bad luck just when I was getting into the hobby (with not just the Kraton, but basically everything I owned) so ultimately I got very fed up with all the wrenching just for 10 mins of running.

In the meantime the Outcast finally arrived and it's a very nice little truck, I think it's better suited for the amount of space I have around here. I had it out 3 times, and it's handling pretty well. It's pretty hard to reach top speed with it though, wants to pop wheelies all day long. :D

I definitely don't want to bling it out, just wanted to hear the opinion about where are the potential weakpoints.

I have only:
- replaced the stock pinion with a proper HD steel one
- replaced the stock servo with a higher torque one that I already had
- put some hard foam under the motor
- strengthened the body where the front tower hits it
- replaced the motor fan with a YR tornado
- set the punch to 5 - but I'm not sure it even needs it, it's already a wheelie monster on punch 4
EXB LSD's ("Limited Slip Diff's") have lost some popularity. Probably slow sellers for this reason, as well as the High $$. Should just have just replaced them with standard "Open diffs". It's a thing many end up doing. Problem fixed.(y) I easily get 20-30+ runs out of all my Standard Open diffs, then I clean and refill them and keep rolling for another 20-30 runs.
If you notice, EXB models are being discontinued. And IMHO, the EXB LSD diffs were its down fall. Or at least were the most frustrating aspect of the Whole EXB line. This started from the very first releases of the EXB Models.
Changing to the standard RTR Open diffs, makes things much better. And they are less $$.
Open diffs are easier to set up maintain and service. And last quite a while if you do them Properly. Usually being user error most of the time, if they fail frequently. And if you never topped off the low diff oil from the factory when new out the box, You are way behind the 8-Ball from the start. They will fail very quickly. Even the 4s and 3s 4x4 line models need to be topped off or checked , when NEW out the box before running it. . Every NIB Arrma RTR model has low if any diff oil out the gate. It's a thing with many RTR brands, not just Arrma's. Check yours ASAP, if you have not already!
Enjoy.:cool:
 
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