Nice find, thanks for sharing. I may end up going that route. No difference between blx and exb gearboxes right?
Help with Kraton chassis Mojave
- Thread starter Shadows
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I’ve got a set of those on the way for a new build. Probably should have ordered a couple.
What I'm thinking.. really only have one problem child right now but, they ain't getting any younger so maybe I should just order 4?
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They’re the same
I ordered one to try and was happy with it. So then I ordered five more.
I’ve installed two of them. First one had perfect tolerances. Second one required a few diff shims but no biggie. They have both held up to some seriously intense bashing.
RCbuzz
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Were the included bearings any good?
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I used the included bearings and haven’t had any issues
Bonus!! I might just buy one of each color..gotta be PC ya know?I used the included bearings and haven’t had any issues
Shadows
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1450kv could most likely run 8s with the right ESC. My M2C'd K6 with 1650kv 4092 and now 1250kv runs cooler on 8s because of less resistance. I'm not good with the math, but it adds up to running more efficiently. My new build has a 1730kv, so it will be on 6s. The 1650kv was pushing the limits on the 8s, but did run cooler on it. I love the look of the XL K6's, but gonna run what I have for now. Get my use out of the LWB M2C chassis.I feel similarly about the wing, and body. To me they are there more for protection than aesthetics. Floppy wing mount doesn't do it for me either. I have all 3 here at the house currently, Kraton, Talion and Typhon. I'll try and get a good look at them and see what differences there are between them. Like I said earlier, I am using a stock K6 wing mount on Mojo tower and bulkhead. 1/8 buggy wing that I got in a box of spares I bought years ago. No idea what make it is but it's narrow like a buggy which fits the narrow width of my Krajave well I think.
I'm running a Hobao rtr 150a esc with an ebay 1450kv 4274 with 20t pinion and Mojo tires. Actually runs really well I think. Just got the new Proline Mirage TT tires on it. Pretty sweet on my clay track.
The Mojo became a Kraton XL, no wing, has a Redcat Shredder body and tires, 4092 1650kv and vxl8s esc. I keep breaking rear diff cups now, not sure but I feel like something is up with my gearbox. Not really wanting to go aluminum but we'll see..gunshots eh? I hear them all the time around me, but not after dark..heck I even hear full auto going off up here!! Hopefully they're on my side when it all goes down!!
With your diff cups, I'd go aluminum, and get aluminum diff cases. Get the cheap ones. I went too fancy. But with the diff cups, if you're not running EXB diffs, Hot Racing's modular diff cups are perfect for the regular diffs, but not the 29mm EXB's. For EXB's, go with Arrma's upgrade cups. Use Mugen shims for all the gears, (in regular 31mm diffs) and a pack of 5X7mm shims in varying thicknesses for the output shafts outside of the cups instead of Arrma's looser fitting ones. Most of the time use the 0.2 thickness, but sometimes a 0.1 is needed. Use a lot of green slime or similar teflon based shock grease on the O Rings and in the cups where the output shafts fit through. I spray dry teflon lube in a soup can and brush it on all the inner diff gears before putting them in the cups, and use a thicker than stock diff oil. They end up incredibly smooth like that. Shim the input gear in the diff case along with the ring gear, tight but no binding. I use a black, grade 3 open gear grease for ring and pinions. For bearings, I make sure they're filled with Super Lube grease. Have had no problems with diffs or diff cups with what I do. So far.
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Yes the 1450kv is claimed to be 8s capable in lightweight vehicles according to the ebay seller. I won't bother, too much fuss trying to stuff 8s into the Arrma battery tray. Plus I'm quite content with how it's performing as is. I actually bought it for a Kaiju EXT, only to find the motor mount in them won't accept anything over 13t for a pinion gear..which is so lame. Oh well, it found a home in the Krajave. I have diff shims a plenty, bought a bunch of the Mugen a while back, along with a slew of them from a bunch of other rc's I've had over the years. Both my Arrma's are EXB's so all my diffs were LSD. Only LSD left now are the centers, I converted front and rear on both trucks to open. Lsd diffs suck IMO., too much going on in there. Plus the plates always seem to ingest the diff gaskets somehow. I'd prefer a solid aluminum diff cup over the modular, too many screws and gaskets for my liking.
Shadows
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Okay. Well, would find the solid type cup with a steel sleeve for the outputs. Steel rotating against aluminum, steel wins. Yeah, the modulars are a pain for me with the special O-Rings. I carefully stretched them out repeatedly while slathered with green slime till they stopped fighting me with install, and they still require a regular gasket. Have never opened the other side of them. No need to. They're solid all assembled, but I understand your preference.
Didn't know that about the Kaiju EXT. It must be solely engineered for the higher KV setup. I hate when they take options from RC's. That's why I went Arrma instead of the T brand. E-Reamo you have no easy motor options, and even the newer Sludge ya' gotta' M2C it completely to be able to have the motor options Arrma has. As far as 8s, I'm able to strap em' in the stock tray and straps. Two 5200mah 4s. But hey, 8s does seem pretty darn extreme for these, so I completely understand why you stay a 6.
Great points. Hadn't thought about the aluminum cup vs steel shaft.. I typically avoid aluminum for high wear parts. Which O rings are you referring to? Are there additional O rings with the modular cups? You just sold me on the modular since I know the end plates are steel. Thanks for that.
As to the Kaiju, mine was OG, which came stock with a 4068 2100kv motor and 10 or 11t pinion, not sure now, but the small can motor ran hot from day one, 9t pinion is the smallest I could find, still hot and now slow.. plus a 9t pinion wears really quickly vs say a 15t. I decided to stretch it to an EXT and get the updated motor mount, run a low kv 4274 with a "normal" sized pinion..well, you know the rest.
Sludge? Yeah, I know about that, my bro has one. After a G invested, it's now about equal to a K6EXB.. coulda bought 2 EXB'S for the money, LOL.
Shadows
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It's a larger diameter, thin O-Ring that adds an extra seal around the gasket. It's a pain in the hind end, but does assist the gasket in keeping everything in. I bought clear extras on eBay to be on the safe side, but HR does sell replacements for more money. They're tougher than ya' think though, as I've stretched the originals several times and they're over 3 years old. Still intact. I never open the other side. Absolutely no need. If you don't stretch at them with some grease like green slime, they will make it almost impossible to put the end cap on. But the thin steel sleeve is as tough as the outputs. No wear. Put the shock grease on the outputs and inside the tube.Great points. Hadn't thought about the aluminum cup vs steel shaft.. I typically avoid aluminum for high wear parts. Which O rings are you referring to? Are there additional O rings with the modular cups? You just sold me on the modular since I know the end plates are steel. Thanks for that.
As to the Kaiju, mine was OG, which came stock with a 4068 2100kv motor and 10 or 11t pinion, not sure now, but the small can motor ran hot from day one, 9t pinion is the smallest I could find, still hot and now slow.. plus a 9t pinion wears really quickly vs say a 15t. I decided to stretch it to an EXT and get the updated motor mount, run a low kv 4274 with a "normal" sized pinion..well, you know the rest.
Sludge? Yeah, I know about that, my bro has one. After a G invested, it's now about equal to a K6EXB.. coulda bought 2 EXB'S for the money, LOL.
EDIT: Just remembered. If they're EXB diffs, just go with Arrma's aluminum EXB cups. I did for my M2C'd rig. Theyre modular, but both ends are completely steel. The whole end cap. I have the complicated plates set to full LSD in front and center, and less at the rear. If I get problems I'll know what to do. The open diff shim kit.BUT with the REGULAR diffs, the HR are better.
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