HELP!! Stripped screw head

[JRG4ARRMA]

So I’m checking the center diff fluid before running my new rig and I stripped a screw head trying several methods to remove it. I think it’s probably got too much loctite from the factory. Any suggestions for removing it? The other three are loose and I had no trouble with the rear diff.

 

[Garcbomber]

Heat the screw head up with a torch/soldering iron, then grind a flat for screwdriver extraction.

Then trade it in for a 6S or toss it in the

 

[MrTitanium]

1) Choose a QUALITY hex driver that will fit snug in the screw head.
2) Apply direct heat to the body
3) Slowly loose the screw.

 

[Tex Koder]

Cigar lighter/torch ~ $3.89

...Does the magic trick to loose those pesky tight screws.

 

[Slammed72]

Yes. Just throw it in the trash then go spend 650 bucks on a new car for a 30 dollar part. Good information.
Try grinding a slot in the screw so you can get a screwdriver on it. Also try tapping on your driver or screwdriver while turning sometimes the impact will break it loose. I had the same issue the first time I broke my gorgon diff open.

 

[Tex Koder]

Yes. Just throw it in the trash then go spend 650 bucks on a new car for a 30 dollar part. Good information.
Try grinding a slot in the screw so you can get a screwdriver on it. Also try tapping on your driver or screwdriver while turning sometimes the impact will break it loose. I had the same issue the first time I broke my gorgon diff open.

$$$Spend your way out of a stuck screw issue...

 

[BruceRC]

There's a good chance heat will save you. A little butane torch will likely allow you to turn it out. Quality drivers are worth it though. Make sure it's in there level and snug after the heat before turning.

 

[razorrc]

$$$Spend your way out of a stuck screw issue...

Pretty sure he’s being sarcastic about an earlier comment.

 

[sumguy75]

If its already too stripped and won't come out even with some heat, dremel a slot to use a flathead:

 

[EOTR]

Cut a slot into it and then use a flat blade screwdriver to extract it. If that fails, use an eight pound sledge hammer. I guarantee it won't give you any more trouble...

 

[Kiba.k9]

Try these I bought these screw extraction pliers for 18 bucks I think and I got the wera screw drivers in 2mm 2.5mm and 3mm screw drivers are a expendable item and should be replaced with signs of wear the weras are about 8 bucks a piece and can be replaced as needed but they are high quality and do have enough area to doctor up the tips once or twice if need be

Better pic of the wera driver

 

[JRG4ARRMA]

Thanks to all who made constructive comments. Since I’m very limited in funds and tools, I’m going to dremel a slot and apply some heat. I’ll use a slotted screwdriver and tap on it too.

 

[adamwins]

So I’m checking the center diff fluid before running my new rig and I stripped a screw head trying several methods to remove it. I think it’s probably got too much loctite from the factory. Any suggestions for removing it? The other three are loose and I had no trouble with the rear diff.

View attachment 361951

View attachment 361952

Assuming you don’t have an easy out set. You can drill it out fairly easily. You can also cut the head off the screw via cutting wheel/angle grinder. I’d start with the drill tho

 

[Garcbomber]

If it’s rounded bad(6S OEM motor mount screws), I’ll tap-pound in the next size standard hex with some heat and pressure(vice). Quality hex drivers are critical with alloy and thread lock.

Those that wrench actual 1 scales have all been there a time or 10, well before YouTube and forums bailed us out…

3 minute jobs turn into 3 hours and cursing, enjoy this hobby stuff it’s supposed to be all rainbows and unicorns

welding nuts on the top of the screw head or broken recessed stud to turn out corroded bolts with beeswax in exhaust manifolds, good talk

 

[Reverendg]

1) Choose a QUALITY hex driver that will fit snug in the screw head.
2) Apply direct heat to the body
3) Slowly loose the screw.

Get a quality bit, wet the bit and roll it lightly in some Ajax or comet cleanser. Then insert it and tap it in. Lightly. The cleanser fills voids and adds grip. If that fails get out the Dremel out and slot the head. If the slot doesn’t work put the diff in a vise, and use a sharp chisel on the edge of the slot and tap the chisel with a hammer. Not too lightly. Once it breaks torque or locktite grip you can use your fingertip.

 

[Kiba.k9]

If it’s rounded bad(6S OEM motor mount screws), I’ll tap in the next size standard hex with some heat and pressure(vice). Quality hex drivers are critical with alloy and thread lock.

Those that wrench actual 1 scales have all been there a time or 10, well before YouTube and forums bailed us out…

3 minute jobs turn into 3 hours and cursing, enjoy this hobby stuff it’s supposed to be all rainbows and unicorns

welding nuts on the top of the screw head or broken recessed stud to turn out corroded bolts with beeswax in exhaust manifolds, good talk

Can't be tight if it's liquid

 

[Johnny b]

Alternative tools if all else fails.

 

[Relimar]

Thanks to all who made constructive comments. Since I’m very limited in funds and tools, I’m going to dremel a slot and apply some heat. I’ll use a slotted screwdriver and tap on it too.

Heat first, even a heat gun or hair dryer will help break the loctite before you dremel it

 

[NitroK]

All excellent advice. Important to keep calm and do not lose your temper. Cursing is encouraged. We have all been there, feels like a waste of time but the feeling of euphoria when the screw comes off cannot be described even if you destroy the entire diff in the process.

 

[JRG4ARRMA]

Amen to that! Now all I have to do is find the dremel!