How hard is it to swap to a new motor on typhon 6s v1?

[Glpob]

I'm still pretty new to the hobby but want to rebuild a v1 typhon I bought that needs a new motor. I have never replaced a motor and can't find many videos with step by step instructions on the version 1 typhon. Any tips would be very helpful

 

[#ARRMArcfanboy4life]

here is the kit page https://www.arrma-rc.com/rc-cars/2014/typhon/blx
I do not think it will be hard to replace the motor on the typhon

 

[HZRDOS]

5 screws on bottom, pull out the motor and diff housing. 2 motor screws, remove pinion. Put back together with new motor. 15 min job.

 

[slick2500]

I'm still pretty new to the hobby but want to rebuild a v1 typhon I bought that needs a new motor. I have never replaced a motor and can't find many videos with step by step instructions on the version 1 typhon. Any tips would be very helpful

It is fairly easy, just make sure you have a good set of tools and something to heat up the screws.

Use a 2.5mm driver to remove the 3 screws circled in red use heat before trying to remove them. Then remove the 2 circled in yellow these go into plastic so no need for heat there.

Remove motor and diff assembly from the vehcile.

Use the 2mm driver to remove the motor pinion, again heat the screw before you try to remove it.

Use the 2.5mm driver to remove the 2 screws securing the motor to the motor mount, again use heat prior to trying to remove the screws.

Assemble in reverse order making sure to use blue thread lock on all screws going into metal and make sure to set your gear mesh.

Hope this helps

 

[#ARRMArcfanboy4life]

It is fairly easy, just make sure you have a good set of tools and something to heat up the screws.

Use a 2.5mm driver to remove the 5 screws circled in red, heat them up before trying to remove to release the threadlock.
View attachment 139585
Remove motor and diff assembly from the vehcile.

Use the 2mm driver to remove the motor pinion, again heat the screw before you try to remove it.

Use the 2.5mm driver to remove the 2 screws securing the motor to the motor mount, again use heat prior to trying to remove the screws.

Assemble in reverse order making sure to use blue thread lock on all screws going into metal and make sure to set your gear mesh.

Hope this helps

only heat up the rear three because the front two are composite mounted and will not have threadlocker (composite will melt if heated enough. Also threadlocker on plastic or composite will harden and crack the parts)

 

[slick2500]

only heat up the rear three because the front two are composite mounted and will not have threadlocker (composite will melt if heated enough. Also threadlocker on plastic or composite will harden and crack the parts)

Oh yeah shoot I forgot that is plastic
And fixed sir thank you for catching that.

 

[HZRDOS]

Oh yeah shoot I forgot that is plastic

I have never used heat. I use MIP only, hand drivers. Make sure fully inserted, hold straight, and slow steady pressure. Not had any issues yet.

 

[slick2500]

I have never used heat. I use MIP only, hand drivers. Make sure fully inserted, hold straight, and slow steady pressure. Not had any issues yet.

Arrma liked to use a lot of red thread lock on everything on the V1 and V2 models, my shock bodies were held together with red thread lock, mangled the crap out of one of my shocks trying to get it apart.
Way back when I first joined here a guy snapped off his 2.5mm MIP in one of the bottom motor mount screws.

 

[olds97_lss]

Arrma liked to use a lot of red thread lock on everything on the V1 and V2 models, my shock bodies were held together with red thread lock, mangled the crap out of one of my shocks trying to get it apart.
Way back when I first joined here a guy snapped off his 2.5mm MIP in one of the bottom motor mount screws.

My 2018 outcast was like that. Motor mount screws, steering post screws, diff cup screws... even using MIP I round out the hex on one of the motor mount screws before hitting the others with a pencil torch. Had to use a dremel to slot the remaining one to remove it with a standard screwdriver. The diff cups just wouldn't come off the pinion without heat. Red threadlock was poured on some of those things.

 

[#ARRMArcfanboy4life]

My 2018 outcast was like that. Motor mount screws, steering post screws, diff cup screws... even using MIP I round out the hex on one of the motor mount screws before hitting the others with a pencil torch. Had to use a dremel to slot the remaining one to remove it with a standard screwdriver. The diff cups just wouldn't come off the pinion without heat. Red threadlock was poured on some of those things.

I had a 2018 talion and they put on so much threadlocker that I had to use a hammer + chisel to get the off

 

[slick2500]

My 2018 outcast was like that. Motor mount screws, steering post screws, diff cup screws... even using MIP I round out the hex on one of the motor mount screws before hitting the others with a pencil torch. Had to use a dremel to slot the remaining one to remove it with a standard screwdriver. The diff cups just wouldn't come off the pinion without heat. Red threadlock was poured on some of those things.

I had to use a center punch to get my diff output cups off.