Kraton Do I really need to grease my bearings and oil and shim the diffs? I am on 6s power. I have never owned a rc car before.

[J_hero6]

Do I really need to grease my bearings and oil and shim the diffs? I am on 6s power. I have never owned a rc car before.

 

[Bustedaw11]

You don't HAVE to....

But you need to.....

If you don't get the proper amount of oil in the diffs (a lot of times they are shipped with to little) you can cause premature wear. Same for shimming. It'll run without doing it, but if the tolerances are very far off you will once again cause premature wear.

If the task seams scary there are lots of great folks that will help you out on here. No need to worry.

 

[J.Rambo]

Welcome.

No, you don't have to. But it is recommended by most everyone here.

I know it may seem overwhelming, especially when you are new. But don't fret. You are in good company here at AF. We'll help you LEARN and teach you how to do WHATEVER you need to keep on bashing. Enjoy the awesome resource of the Arrma Forum!

 

[MrTitanium]

At the very least, remove the bearing caps and look at the condition of the gears. See if there how much backlash there is with your finger.

 

[nomis38]

Do I really need to grease my bearings and oil and shim the diffs? I am on 6s power. I have never owned a rc car before.

Lets first ask, how mechanical are you? Beginner/Intermediate/Advanced

 

[RCbuzz]

You are in the Pro Grade RC League now. 6S is no joke, the speeds these RC's travel at are wild.

There are tons of Youtube videos out there on Arrma RC Maintenance (for just about every Arrma RC made).

We can relate, this is a great community here. Checking your diff fluids and your pinion/spur gear mesh is a good start. Also, check your steering end points! A must. As for greasing your individual bearings you might save that for another day. I service them but a lot of folks here will just replace them when they get too much play.

Shimming your differentials to ensure good gear mesh will ultimately just save you time and $ down the road.

And hey....

 

[SrC]

You don't HAVE to....

But you need to.....

If you don't get the proper amount of oil in the diffs (a lot of times they are shipped with to little) you can cause premature wear. Same for shimming. It'll run without doing it, but if the tolerances are very far off you will once again cause premature wear.

If the task seams scary there are lots of great folks that will help you out on here. No need to worry.

+!

 

[hobo]

I always strip the diffs and put my weight oil in them and make sure there shimmed right also make sure all the metal to metal fasteners have lock tight on them also do a few other things before running a new rtr rc but thats just me. at the very least I would make sure your diffs are shimmed right 6s is a lot of power

 

[SrC]

+1.
Sound advice, especially with new out the box Arrma 6s diffs. You will be way ahead of the curve. 4 Shims are provided bagged in the box for a reason. Some will say to run it for a pack or 2 easily doing alot of figures eights, then check shims. The new diffs will always break in.
You change your oils first. All 3 of them. Then Re shim Front and Rr diffs. using shims as needed. Reassemble. An initial easy break-in first, works out for me.

 

[DHILLONHP]

Let’s first ask, how mechanical are you? Beginner/Intermediate/Advanced

Before beginner

Before beginner (this is my other account)

 

[SrC]

Lets first ask, how mechanical are you? Beginner/Intermediate/Advanced

Whether beginner or not. What level of aptitude, etc.
Wrenching is not optional!
Need to jump in and get your feet wet. Or this hobby is not for you.
Baby steps of course.
Just, there are no short cuts, IMHO.

 

[nomis38]

Whether beginner or not. What level of aptitude, etc.
Wrenching is not optional!
Need to jump in and get your feet wet. Or this hobby is not for you.
Baby steps of course.
Just, there are no short cuts, IMHO.

You haven't a clue how to teach then, it does matter what level they are. How you instruct someone is solely dependent on their level of knowledge in the field. This blanket statement could be said to you by a mathematician and he then gives you a problem you haven't a clue how to solve.

You can just say, "shim your diffs" "service all your diff fluids". But if they don't even know what a diff is then you haven't helped them at all. Which is usually what you do

 

[Bustedaw11]

You haven't a clue how to teach then, it does matter what level they are. How you instruct someone is solely dependent on their level of knowledge in the field. This blanket statement could be said to you by a mathematician and he then gives you a problem you haven't a clue how to solve.

You can just say, "shim your diffs" "service all your diff fluids". But if they don't even know what a diff is then you haven't helped them at all. Which is usually what you do

@SrC giving the proper steps was sound advice. If they don't know what a diff is a very quick "how to shim my diff" search will provide further instructions and understanding.

Multiple people stated if any questions arise just ask. No need to spell it out 100% from the get go and assume they know absolutely nothing.

Also.... @SrC I've rarely seen somebody advise to do figure 8's and lightly break in a diff before shimming. That is an awesome piece of advice.
To shim a brand new diff then break it in doesn't get you anywhere but out of spec again in short order.

 

[nomis38]

@SrC giving the proper steps was sound advice. If they don't know what a diff is a very quick "how to shim my diff" search will provide further instructions and understanding.

Multiple people stated if any questions arise just ask. No need to spell it out 100% from the get go and assume they know absolutely nothing.

He quoted me and said I was wrong and im not lol. The word "diff" was an example not actual as the OP used the word Diff in his first sentence.

So what?

My response was to SrC not the OP, my original message was for the OP.

Over 50% of the people that buy an RC from a hobbyshop haven't a clue how to use or work on it. Most hobbyshops if not all do repair. Why? because many people don't know or don't want to know how to do their own work.

Always start out assuming they know nothing and work up from there. Tech support 101

 

[Bustedaw11]

He quoted me and said I was wrong and im not lol. The word "diff" was an example not actual as the OP used the word Diff in his first sentence.

So what?

My response was to SrC not the OP, my original message was for the OP.

I'm sorry, I didn't read it that way.

We all have a common goal, let's get there together shall we?

 

[nomis38]

I'm sorry, I didn't read it that way.

We all have a common goal, let's get there together shall we?

np haha, i just know a lot of people that buy and don't want to know or learn how to repair. It's super common on a local level.

 

[Bustedaw11]

 

[nomis38]

Nothing beats a video tutorial!!

 

[SrC]

@SrC giving the proper steps was sound advice. If they don't know what a diff is a very quick "how to shim my diff" search will provide further instructions and understanding.

Multiple people stated if any questions arise just ask. No need to spell it out 100% from the get go and assume they know absolutely nothing.

Also.... @SrC I've rarely seen somebody advise to do figure 8's and lightly break in a diff before shimming. That is an awesome piece of advice.
To shim a brand new diff then break it in doesn't get you anywhere but out of spec again in short order.

+1
Most here don't' race competitively, but any serious racer will always break-in his diffs. It's an RC thing. This is rather old advice. Not commonly heard. Many will say it's splitting hairs on this....

Well, since Arrma diffs are quite needy out the box, and not the most durable out there, from the get go, I go that extra mile. Which honestly costs me nothing. A good habit I've developed. I also can break-in my diffs while removed and on the bench. Another secret technique of mine. Sorry but that is proprietary, I won't divulge. If you dig deep into Arrma, you will find that re-shimming is actually done after a quick brief break-in. That is why shims are bagged on the side in the Box. Just that since QC can be way off, makes sense to check the diffs before use, making sure oil is topped off, the factory shimmingis close enugh, then re-shim again after a break-in. Most wont even bother to take either steps. It why we have many here with early diff failures scratching their heads. Asking why, me?.
Diff sat and sun gears will wear into each other, they are not machined precisely, The oil gets all dark from initial metal wear. So after a break-in, you want to change out all the oils and run some decent recommended oil CST's. 60k fr/500k cnt/20-30k Rr. Stock oils are generally too thin for hard bashing use anyway. Leading to Diffing out and a burnt up center diff in most cases.
Edited,

 

[Eyeman]

What sizes are needed? I have a 6s Typhon