I got a new project need some help ...Car Audio System

[🇺🇸 DΞזΞפּ 🇺🇸]

So I busted my skull earbuds while driving, my current sound in my car is not bad but I need more kick. Now here is what I wanna do ! I don't want to replace the 2011 stock Radio, it's got Bluetooth, I'm good with that. Boston speakers later on I will replace it with the Alpine series Alpine
The Stock amp in the Camaro sux so I would replace it with the JL JL Amp to push the 6 Boston stock speakers. For the amp in the back plus the Sub I was planning on using the SKAR combo SKAR AMP & SUB COMBO to drive the triple 8's which fits snug in the Trunk of the SS.
But my question is ? the JL Amp is a 5 Channel with a lot of juice and I wonder if can push all the speaker + Sub with just that Amp? or do I need that mono SKAR amp to only drive the Subs?
Also the speakers I have now are not that great anymore but I only want Tweeters and Sub I can live without Mids. which I still have with the Boston speakers.
I know we got some Techies on here that know better than me, if you could help a brother out or have better combos in mind that wouldn't break the $1500 I'd love to hear it
I created a List for anyone to access and edit it on Amazon with this LINK

 

[biggman100]

So I busted my skull earbuds while driving, my current sound in my car is not bad but I need more kick. Now here is what I wanna do ! I don't want to replace the 2011 stock Radio, it's got Bluetooth, I'm good with that. Boston speakers later on I will replace it with the Alpine series Alpine
The Stock amp in the Camaro sux so I would replace it with the JL JL Amp to push the 6 Boston stock speakers. For the amp in the back plus the Sub I was planning on using the SKAR combo SKAR AMP & SUB COMBO to drive the triple 8's which fits snug in the Trunk of the SS.
But my question is ? the JL Amp is a 5 Channel with a lot of juice and I wonder if can push all the speaker + Sub with just that Amp? or do I need that mono SKAR amp to only drive the Subs?
Also the speakers I have now are not that great anymore but I only want Tweeters and Sub I can live without Mids. which I still have with the Boston speakers.
I know we got some Techies on here that know better than me, if you could help a brother out or have better combos in mind that wouldn't break the $1500 I'd love to hear it
I created a List for anyone to access and edit it on Amazon with this LINK

Honestly, i would keep the JL Amp for the in car speakers, but ditch the amp/sub combo, unless you want to either blow the amp, lose sound quality, or have other issues. Both of those amps you linked are monoblock, and the only way a monoblock will work correctly with 3 subs is to wire 2 subs in parallel, and one sub in series, but, you lose quite a bit of output that way. You would be better off either getting the JL amp and adding a single 300W max 10 or 12 inch sub, or, use the SKAR amp with a single 12 or 15 inch sub. If you truly want multiple subs, a pair of 12's and a 1200-1500W dual channel amp would have much cleaner sound, and louder output. From just the specs on the SKAR amp, the output drops drastically depending on if it is connected to 1, 2 or 4, subs, but, doesn't say anything about a 3 sub configuration. With 4 subs connected, at 1OHM each, output is at 500W RMS.

 

[🇺🇸 DΞזΞפּ 🇺🇸]

Thanks for the input Bro, so I don't have the JL yet (still got the stock Camaro amp), but if I read you right you mean put the JL for the current speaker setup, then get the SKAR for a Single 12" or 15" sub, my goal is a deep punch (15-20 Hz) @ 2-1 ohm, got to check the Amp specs.

 

[biggman100]

Thanks for the input Bro, so I don't have the JL yet (still got the stock Camaro amp), but if I read you right you mean put the JL for the current speaker setup, then get the SKAR for a Single 12" or 15" sub, my goal is a deep punch (15-20 Hz) @ 2-1 ohm, got to check the Amp specs.

First i would check and see if you can find the specs for the stock amp. You don't want to buy another amp, even the JL only to find out it isnt as good as the stock one. Typically though, most aftermarket amps are better than the stock one, except in some cases. Older Chrysler/Jeep vehicles with the Infinity amp was one example of that. Since your car already has the Boston Acoustics package, that amp may have better specs than the JL. As for the JL amp, if you do go that route, then, yes, use that just for the stock front door/rear speakers, and use the SKAR, or maybe even something a bit better to power a single 12 or 15. I would start though, by doing a bit of research on Crutchfield.com. Under the car audio tab on the home page, they have a link where you can search for stuff specifically for your vehicle. Even if you don't buy from there, between the products they recommend, and their tech articles, it will give you way more options, some of which may be way under the $1500 budget you listed. Personally, i stick with either JVC or Pioneer for everything. Mixing and matching from different brands can sometimes be hit or miss.

 

[🇺🇸 DΞזΞפּ 🇺🇸]

Yeah I came across the Crutchfield and actually used it lol, then I went to Amazon and like the Alpine package was, 100 cheaper, anyway from the research I've done people say that the amp in the SS is the weakest link.
And I think the setup I listed is overkill in the car, I'm leaning towards a single 12" and a good amp, but there are 1000's out there, the 1200 Skar looks like it has what I'm looking for, even the 12" sub Hz and ohm range is the perfect combo, but I will look some more, the enclosure im not certain yet, rear or front firing, #1 goal is the right amp and sub first.

 

[Tex Koder]

I use to be heavy into car audio back in the day...

All the headunits, amps, speakers and subs..
But most folks overlook the most critical part of this equation > the power cables, especially the ones putting juice to the amp(s).
Majority of the time the wiring harness/looms from factory are Limiting factor to power a sub amp.

You need at least 8 gauge dedicated cables -From the battery to the sub amps themselves- to really allow them to push subwoofer(s).
That usually means drilling thru the firewall and pulling up carpet & upholstery and seats to route those python-size cables ,which lot of people don't like to do or pay for. (Plus they just don't want to spend the money on something they can't even see most of the time..)
Along with that you would need stiffening caps (capacitors) to truly allow for high SPL performance, ie: Bass response.

If you take care of these two criteria..
You would be Amazed what a pair of 8" subs in a seal box can do.. Let alone a pair of 10" or 12".
With a solid amp of clean 250-400Watts..
Break eardrums (in a car environment.)

 

[🇺🇸 DΞזΞפּ 🇺🇸]

Sweet, yeah I always get the correct wiring in anything I do electronically, high or low voltage, capacitor wise, no haven't thought of it as of yet, it's not gonna be a competition setup, but I do need it to be clean for the style music I listen to.
Give me an example of what kind of system you would put in it. I had the Skar before and it was hammering pretty good and clean.

 

[Tex Koder]

Honestly, I haven't kept up with the times on car audio...
Don't know of the latest brands/companies to even begin to make recommendations.

 

[JKWoods]

I would do a separate amp for the stock speakers and then a amp for the sub or subs that you buy. I have always liked the 10" subs. It depends on the amount of base you want. I feel the 12" drowns out the mids to much unless you have them adjusted up and bass down but then you are in the same place just having the 10" .

 

[Cereal_killer]

Your going to need a inline output. If you want to keep the original radio.. but sadly even the decent ones. Still suck. I've done it this way on the girlfriend's car. Imo. It's easier to swap out everything. But it can be done.

 

[🇺🇸 DΞזΞפּ 🇺🇸]

Yes, that's what I have in mind, 2 separate amps, 1 just to push the Sub, with the 10" I can't reach where I want to be, also there will not be much mids, so the 12" is minimum, max is 15". Bluetooth amp is dumb IMHO, but for now it be 1 12"
@ 2 ohms or even 1 to reach 15Hz, I don't really give a damn about Watts lol
Well a little, I also gotta do a lot of sound damping in the trunk lol, the kicker inline output and the fark subthump harness.
I really want to build it myself, not just buy a combo or go to car audio shop, I'm somewhat of an audiophile, if you could see the system I have at home lol, for me it's all about clearity than volume.

 

[🇺🇸 DΞזΞפּ 🇺🇸]

So here is kind of what I will listen to lol

I'm picking poop of the floor right now at home, everything was coming down

 

[biggman100]

You need at least 8 gauge dedicated cables -From the battery to the sub amps themselves- to really allow them to push subwoofer(s).

Speaking of power cables, make sure they actually, at the very least, 8GA. A lot of the cheaper kits, like you find at Walmart and Amazon, the power cables are never the true gauge listed. Some of the cheaper brands, it will say 8 or 10GA, but, will actually be 12 or 14GA wrapped in a thick plastic to make it appear to be heavier cable. I normally use Stinger or Kicker wire for the power. More expensive, but, cheaper than replacing the car when the lighter stuff burns it down. Keep in mind though, 8GA is normally rated at 600W max. Anyone interested in learning a bit more about the wiring side of it, heres an article about it from Crutchfield: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-4cETDJiV41P/learn/learningcenter/car/cable_gauge_chart.html and this article explains the difference between good and cheap power wire: https://carstereochick.com/2011/11/...ight-size-power-and-ground-wire-for-your-amp/

I would do a separate amp for the stock speakers and then a amp for the sub or subs that you buy. I have always liked the 10" subs. It depends on the amount of base you want. I feel the 12" drowns out the mids to much unless you have them adjusted up and bass down but then you are in the same place just having the 10" .

Personally, i have to say i agree with this. The system in my Durango consists of a 4 channel to drive the subs and tweeters in the front doors and 2 ways in the rear doors, and 2 10" subs in separate sealed enclosures, powered by a 2 channel amp, and while it wont rattle the exterior panels too much, it has enough bass to vibrate the mirrors, while still having enough voice (highs) to be able to actually hear the vocals, no matter what i am listening to (rap, country, rock, classic, disco), and that system consists of older Sony Xplod amps, and all the speakers are JVC, and the subs are Sony. Its the only system i ever mixed and match, but, my brother has owned an audio/video install shop for 30+ years, so he had a huge hand in making it sound good. When i tried a pair of 12's in separate boxes, even at the lowest setting, it had enough bass to drown out everything else.

 

[olds97_lss]

Honestly, I haven't kept up with the times on car audio...
Don't know of the latest brands/companies to even begin to make recommendations.

The last amp I bought was a Rockford Fosgate Punch 800a4. That was just to run 4 polk audio 6x9 3-ways... was a nightmare to power those stupid things. But I really liked their sound.

When I got rid of the car, I left the speakers in it, but kept the amp. It's an oldy, but a goody. I bought 3 amps by the time I got enough power to run the stupid speakers well. Massive Audio NX4 and a kenwood 4x70W. Neither could get it done, but the RF did. I had Kicker 4AWG power wire and kicker 14awg wire to the speakers I think. Was a grand marquis, so had room for 6x9's in the front doors and rear deck.

 

[🇺🇸 DΞזΞפּ 🇺🇸]

I will use a 1/0 gauge wire
Kit I'm going with the Skar VXF 12". VXF @1 ohms.
Amp is a Skar RP 2000.1D
Amp enclosure is SK1X12V
LOC from Kicker LOC, better battery YellowTop With a 50 farad capacitor FARAD
A new Alternator is ordered.