Kraton I need help, motor slider screw stripped!!!

[Sea Fury]

Hey guys, been awhile!

I now live in SC low country 2miles from an active MCAS so no RC flying anywhere near me.

So, I got back into cars!

Been running my Kraton 6S having fun!

Then I bought 2 more trucks so my cousins can play with me.
A used Senton 3s BLX (Garbage buy, rocks bind steering constantly already had to replace steering servo and now BLX ESC is fried!)
Also bought a brand-new Big Rock, it's ok but I realize now it was a waste of money as it's just a Senton with longer Arms lmao.

Anyway, my K6 started making awful screaming noises when I hit the throttle.
To many back flips off my BMX ramps, then I found a big skate park and really beat the crap out of it.
Barely moves now.

I took the rear diff apart, it's fine.
Took the center diff apart, it's fine.....noticed my pinion gear is worn, but not gone by any means.
Decided not to mess with the front diff.

After playing with it near my feet without the body and watching the motor pinion and pinning it down while I hit the gas, I see its stripped even though it still has teeth.
The center diff Spur seems fine but going to grab a spare anyway.

Problem is, those 2 bolts on top of the motor mount, looks like that's the slide mechanism to adjust gear lash, well one of those pos stripped when I tried to loosen it!!!!!

Now that I KNOW for a FACT my pinion is trash, I need to get this motor off to replace it, and tighten the gear lash obviously.

Any ideas on how I can get this stripped pos bolt off so I can fix my baby?

I am thinking I need to get a Dremel cut off wheel and slot the head then heat the whole mount and try it with a flat head screwdriver?
I also thought about drilling the head off, but I don't see how I would ever get the bolt shaft out of this aluminum plate doing that to be able to replace it?

Any better ideas considering what a pita that's going to be with my new living situation and 99% of my tools packed away in my trailer?
And no, I don't want to be buy a new motor mount, motor, and pinion lol.

Please help!



Also, am I the only one that constantly snaps the 2 rear entry bolts to the wing mount, that go into the diff housing?
Every single time I replace them, on the next battery, one bad landing on the wing, snapo!

So tired of that one issue as the wing mount is tied into my fancy EXB chassis brace so when its broken it compromises the entire thing.

 

[Bustedaw11]

Slightly over sized torx bit. Tap it in with a hammer. It'll most likely do the trick.

 

[djrahbee]

Dremel a slot in the top of the screw for a flat head screwdriver

 

[RedondoBeachRC]

I have a solution for those stripped screws!

Ti Gr5 replacements with 3mm hex

 

[palmryde]

I have a solution for those stripped screws!

Ti Gr5 replacements with 3mm hexView attachment 313818

Heat the screw up first to melt the lock tight, then torx or slot

 

[Gordo]

I use this, but get a cobalt dill bit I think I use 3/16, drill the hex and use the speed out. Works all the time. I have 2 1/5 scales and I'm always running into stripped heads.

 

[Just a hobby]

Slightly over sized torx bit. Tap it in with a hammer. It'll most likely do the trick.

Some heat to to melt the thread loc.

 

[KevinC]

Dremel a slot in the top of the screw for a flat head screwdriver

This post says it all……that and some heat from a small torch. When you do get the screw out, replace it with a cap head screw, not a button head.

 

[Tex Koder]

...

Problem is, those 2 bolts on top of the motor mount, looks like that's the slide mechanism to adjust gear lash, well one of those pos stripped when I tried to loosen it!!!!!

Now that I KNOW for a FACT my pinion is trash, I need to get this motor off to replace it, and tighten the gear lash obviously.

Any ideas on how I can get this stripped pos bolt off so I can fix my baby?

I am thinking I need to get a Dremel cut off wheel and slot the head then heat the whole mount and try it with a flat head screwdriver?
I also thought about drilling the head off, but I don't see how I would ever get the bolt shaft out of this aluminum plate doing that to be able to replace it?

Any better ideas considering what a pita that's going to be with my new living situation and 99% of my tools packed away in my trailer?
And no, I don't want to be buy a new motor mount, motor, and pinion lol.

Please help!



..

Brother, You're not the only one to have witness this mind numbing episode of "Why did Arrma used such Lame screws and so much Loctite" for the motor mount slider..

I had to use a plumber's torch to heat those bolts up enough to break them loose..
Because those bolts are actually quite long and the portion that's threaded are stuck about 10mm further pass the motor - into the bottom portion of the motor mount that the heat needs to reach before it will melt the Loctite...

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/dumpster-fire-or-a-diamond-in-the-rough.58743/page-5#post-911523

Just remove all the plastic bits from the motor mount area BEFORE you apply the Heat!

 

[Cuzifit]

Hey guys, been awhile!

I now live in SC low country 2miles from an active MCAS so no RC flying anywhere near me.

So, I got back into cars!

Been running my Kraton 6S having fun!

Then I bought 2 more trucks so my cousins can play with me.
A used Senton 3s BLX (Garbage buy, rocks bind steering constantly already had to replace steering servo and now BLX ESC is fried!)
Also bought a brand-new Big Rock, it's ok but I realize now it was a waste of money as it's just a Senton with longer Arms lmao.

Anyway, my K6 started making awful screaming noises when I hit the throttle.
To many back flips off my BMX ramps, then I found a big skate park and really beat the crap out of it.
Barely moves now.

I took the rear diff apart, it's fine.
Took the center diff apart, it's fine.....noticed my pinion gear is worn, but not gone by any means.
Decided not to mess with the front diff.

After playing with it near my feet without the body and watching the motor pinion and pinning it down while I hit the gas, I see its stripped even though it still has teeth.
The center diff Spur seems fine but going to grab a spare anyway.

Problem is, those 2 bolts on top of the motor mount, looks like that's the slide mechanism to adjust gear lash, well one of those pos stripped when I tried to loosen it!!!!!

Now that I KNOW for a FACT my pinion is trash, I need to get this motor off to replace it, and tighten the gear lash obviously.

Any ideas on how I can get this stripped pos bolt off so I can fix my baby?

I am thinking I need to get a Dremel cut off wheel and slot the head then heat the whole mount and try it with a flat head screwdriver?
I also thought about drilling the head off, but I don't see how I would ever get the bolt shaft out of this aluminum plate doing that to be able to replace it?

Any better ideas considering what a pita that's going to be with my new living situation and 99% of my tools packed away in my trailer?
And no, I don't want to be buy a new motor mount, motor, and pinion lol.

Please help!



Also, am I the only one that constantly snaps the 2 rear entry bolts to the wing mount, that go into the diff housing?
Every single time I replace them, on the next battery, one bad landing on the wing, snapo!

So tired of that one issue as the wing mount is tied into my fancy EXB chassis brace so when its broken it compromises the entire thing.

Just did my Typhon, same issues. I set a ball bearing on the top of the hex, smacked the ball a couple times to peen it over just little. Next I took a soldering iron and placed it on head of screw for about 1 minute, the screws have blue loctite on them and the heat helps soften the loctite. I was then able to get Allen wrench to break it loose. Hope this helps.

 

[RC Steve]

To remove your stripped screws remove your roll cage and the top of your center diff mount. Use a pair of vice grips and unscrew the offenders. Replace them with something with a proper head on it. The only solution I know for your wing mount issues is a RPM skid plate brace wing mount. I own two of them, they're pretty tough. They are not compatible with Arrma's wheelie bar.

 

[Just a hobby]

Hey guys, been awhile!

I now live in SC low country 2miles from an active MCAS so no RC flying anywhere near me.

So, I got back into cars!

Been running my Kraton 6S having fun!

Then I bought 2 more trucks so my cousins can play with me.
A used Senton 3s BLX (Garbage buy, rocks bind steering constantly already had to replace steering servo and now BLX ESC is fried!)
Also bought a brand-new Big Rock, it's ok but I realize now it was a waste of money as it's just a Senton with longer Arms lmao.

Anyway, my K6 started making awful screaming noises when I hit the throttle.
To many back flips off my BMX ramps, then I found a big skate park and really beat the crap out of it.
Barely moves now.

I took the rear diff apart, it's fine.
Took the center diff apart, it's fine.....noticed my pinion gear is worn, but not gone by any means.
Decided not to mess with the front diff.

After playing with it near my feet without the body and watching the motor pinion and pinning it down while I hit the gas, I see its stripped even though it still has teeth.
The center diff Spur seems fine but going to grab a spare anyway.

Problem is, those 2 bolts on top of the motor mount, looks like that's the slide mechanism to adjust gear lash, well one of those pos stripped when I tried to loosen it!!!!!

Now that I KNOW for a FACT my pinion is trash, I need to get this motor off to replace it, and tighten the gear lash obviously.

Any ideas on how I can get this stripped pos bolt off so I can fix my baby?

I am thinking I need to get a Dremel cut off wheel and slot the head then heat the whole mount and try it with a flat head screwdriver?
I also thought about drilling the head off, but I don't see how I would ever get the bolt shaft out of this aluminum plate doing that to be able to replace it?

Any better ideas considering what a pita that's going to be with my new living situation and 99% of my tools packed away in my trailer?
And no, I don't want to be buy a new motor mount, motor, and pinion lol.

Please help!



Also, am I the only one that constantly snaps the 2 rear entry bolts to the wing mount, that go into the diff housing?
Every single time I replace them, on the next battery, one bad landing on the wing, snapo!

So tired of that one issue as the wing mount is tied into my fancy EXB chassis brace so when its broken it compromises the entire thing.

Wing mounts, drill out those 2 holes and install bigger and longer screws and use nuts on the wing side of the shock tower . If they break easier to replace if they break.

Wing mounts, drill out those 2 holes and install bigger and longer screws and use nuts on the wing side of the shock tower . If they break easier to replace if they break.

. This video should help?

 

[RC Steve]

Thank you Mr. J for the video. I'm putting an order together now for the parts. I also liked the idea of running an RPM Kraton bumper on the back to help protect the wing mount even more.

 

[Just a hobby]

Thank you Mr. J for the video. I'm putting an order together now for the parts. I also liked the idea of running an RPM Kraton bumper on the back to help protect the wing mount even more.

Not a problem!! Glade I could help.

 

[PrerunninF150]

One thing nobody has mentioned yet is to use good quality drivers. When I was using my amazon specials I would strip heads frequently. Once I got my MIP drivers I have not had a single stripped head.

 

[Just a hobby]

One thing nobody has mentioned yet is to use good quality drivers. When I was using my amazon specials I would strip heads frequently. Once I got my MIP drivers I have not had a single stripped head.

Soo trure.You don't have good tools your rig is going nowhere fast.
Only frustration !!

 

[Sea Fury]

Holey crap

Yall are amazing, so many good idea's and I don't have time to quote you all!

THANK YOU!

Now I have a list of things to try, and upgrades to bolts to make, I will have to try the wing bolt setup, can't believe I didn't see that myself on youtube.

To the RPM wing mount suggestion, I already bought that at a local hobbyshop last week but when I got home realized it won't work with my wheelie bar, or my metal rear skid plate, so it's wasted money now, I may try to return it idk....
I wish it worked for me because it looked like it could help.

I just did another stock mount and 1 battery later both bolts snapped again.
Granted I was bashing at a wooden public skatepark doing back flips and what not on big ramps.

First removal attempt I am going to see if I can get vice grips on the motor bolt, but I highly doubt it will hold that thin button head screw.
I will also heat it first, with something.... I think I have a lighter lying around from when I quit smoking last Dec.......torch I don't have, soldering iron is packed away.....somewhere in a box, in my trailer

If that doesn't work, I'll go on to try heat and drill (on hand) and speed out/easy out/remover.

Hopefully that's as far as it goes.
Will replace with cap head screws, any strong brand recommended?

 

[Tex Koder]

Holey crap

Yall are amazing, so many good idea's and I don't have time to quote you all!

THANK YOU!

Now I have a list of things to try, and upgrades to bolts to make, I will have to try the wing bolt setup, can't believe I didn't see that myself on youtube.

To the RPM wing mount suggestion, I already bought that at a local hobbyshop last week but when I got home realized it won't work with my wheelie bar, or my metal rear skid plate, so it's wasted money now, I may try to return it idk....
I wish it worked for me because it looked like it could help.

I just did another stock mount and 1 battery later both bolts snapped again.
Granted I was bashing at a wooden public skatepark doing back flips and what not on big ramps.

For a proven hearty Wing Mount look no further than a custom one from @3d-rc.myshopify.com

First removal attempt I am going to see if I can get vice grips on the motor bolt, but I highly doubt it will hold that thin button head screw.
I will also heat it first, with something.... I think I have a lighter lying around from when I quit smoking last Dec.......torch I don't have, soldering iron is packed away.....somewhere in a box, in my trailer

If that doesn't work, I'll go on to try heat and drill (on hand) and speed out/easy out/remover.

Hopefully that's as far as it goes.
Will replace with cap head screws, any strong brand recommended?

If you're going to attempt this route
, then you'll need to Shave/Dremel/File Two opposing Flat sides to that crappy buttonhead screws (the best you can)
Like so >>

So that you'll have something more substantial for your vice grips to bite onto before trying to unscrew those bolts..
Otherwise, you're not going to make any progress..

 

[Sea Fury]

Yea I realized this last night Tex Koder....

I also noticed with this stock pinion the motor mount slide is already as far as it can go tight wise.
So I may just be able to swap out my pinion gear....which came off easy after heating it first.

Might be able to push off this stuck bolt problem for a while yet, until I am in a position to get to my (or someone's) dremel cutoff tool.

Admittedly I made a rookie mistake and tried to initially remove this stuck bolt without using heat, which is probably why it stripped, even with a quality tool.

New pinions coming today, tomorrow, and Monday lol.
I bought an assortment of stock 12t and one 13t, (including 1 Tekno) but I wish they were all Safe-D.
I like that feature and it should be industry standard!

 

[SrC]

I have a solution for those stripped screws!

Ti Gr5 replacements with 3mm hexView attachment 313818

+1