Typhon Improve air control

[swarls]

You will need 17mm hexed wheels. 12mm wheels won't work.
The Typhon is not the best big air rig. Many will mod it to do so. Depends how you drive.
I myself have considered the Mojave Fortresse's for my TLRT in the dirt. Not truly correct for a buggy, being a purist, but I think these wheels will give better rotation. Many have used them on their Typhons.
Have you adjusted your Punch higher? If you haven't, that is the first thing to try before changing out the tires. You might just get some better Rotation. And running the Mojo Fortress tires above in conjunction with a Higher Punch setting in the ESC may work for you. Learn your ESC parameters better. First thing to do. If you have not already. Get the Programmer to do this. The fastest and easiest way to adjust your ESC.
The Kraton for instance has large MT tires , so the mass and weight of their wheels is what give best rotaional control in the air. Typhon can't use these large MT wheels. Not designed for it. Has short arms and shocks as well. Typhon is best for moderate air jumps seen on a Track. Where it would shine out the box. I run only 4s with my TLRT, FWIW. A Better balanced chassis IMHO. Most will run 6s for bashing. I know.

The wheels I linked can also be used with a 17mm hex. You have to buy a different "insert" for the tire center for it to work tho.

Haven't tried increasing punch yet, will definitely give that a try before ordering any parts!

 

[fish]

You will need 17mm hexed wheels. 12mm wheels won't work.
The Typhon is not the best big air rig. Many will mod it to do so. Depends how you drive.
I myself have considered the Mojave Fortresse's for my TLRT in the dirt. Not truly correct for a buggy, being a purist, but I think these wheels will give better rotation. Many have used them on their Typhons.
Have you adjusted your Punch higher? If you haven't, that is the first thing to try before changing out the tires. You might just get some better Rotation. And running the Mojo Fortress tires above in conjunction with a Higher Punch setting in the ESC may work for you. Learn your ESC parameters better. First thing to do. If you have not already. Get the Programmer to do this. The fastest and easiest way to adjust your ESC.
The Kraton for instance has large MT tires , so the mass and weight of their wheels is what give best rotaional control in the air. Typhon can't use these large MT wheels. Not designed for it. Has short arms and shocks as well. Typhon is best for moderate air jumps seen on a Track. Where it would shine out the box. I run only 4s with my TLRT, FWIW. A Better balanced chassis IMHO. Most will run 6s for bashing. I know.

Question: Out of the box the Firma 150 ESC seem to use a 22degree timing on the motor. Reducing it to 15 or so increases torque but reduces overall RPMs (in a nut shell). I found that as i stepped the Typhon into different iterations (in order), Kraton Hubs > Kraton Arms > Kraton Chassis > Kraton Difs > Mojave Chassis. Weight went up some, Wheel sizes need to rise with it as did Pinion. The added mass and size (wheelbase X and Y) needed the timing reduced.
Im tuning mine to Not Wheelie or rotate much in the air for field speedrunning but its still easy enough. I then start nudging the timing up till it starts cogging some or just doesn't get any faster. Sometimes it gets slower, not enough torque for the grass so it never obtains the RPMs it potentially can.

 

[SrC]

When it comes to non-sensored motors, I rather limit and keep timing on the lower side. I could be wrong. But that works for me.
Over Gearing and higher timing will always increase heat. For off road, Heat seems to be the common denominator. Especially with OE electrics. Motor Kv varies. So this is not a hard and fast rule IMHO.
Yes at some point Timing will not increase rpms, because Torque falls off dramtically. Higher amp draw results, becoming very inefficient with a marginal Timing advantage. With a heavy Off road rig, that always works against you. I don't feel super high RPMs at the motor are necessarily a great thing for Offroading.
With Sensored feedback ESC's and motors ( upgrade electrics) , Full Timing feature is controlled based on its Throttle range in most cases. Initial timing is manipulated at the ESC. So yo can get the best of both worlds. Timing becomes dynamic versus static in a Non sensored setup.
How I always interpreted timing.
Let me know if I make no sense and am spouting BS here.