Kraton just had a blow out

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slick

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please tell me i don't have to remove this front end.it popped out at a pretty low speed.wierd how just the driveshaft popped out and nothing else

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please tell me i don't have to remove this front end.it popped out at a pretty low speed.wierd how just the driveshaft popped out and nothing else

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You'll really want to remove the wheel and that ball pivot (from the arm) to properly reinstall that linkage through the outer side of the steering knuckles.
If you force it back on the way it is you will just make it worse/easier for it to pop out again...
 
You'll really want to remove the wheel and that ball pivot (from the arm) to properly reinstall that linkage through the outer side of the steering knuckles.
If you force it back on the way it is you will just make it worse/easier for it to pop out again...
does the hub need to come off
 
You'll really want to remove the wheel and that ball pivot (from the arm) to properly reinstall that linkage through the outer side of the steering knuckles.
If you force it back on the way it is you will just make it worse/easier for it to pop out again...
does the hub need to be removed
 
Also, this is often caused by incorrect droop settings. Reduce your droop a tad, even on both sides.
And don’t be afraid to wrench on your truck. You’ll need that skill if you want to remain in the hobby. Ask any questions you need, there is no dumb question. Good luck!
 
You'll really want to remove the wheel and that ball pivot (from the arm) to properly reinstall that linkage through the outer side of the steering knuckles.
If you force it back on the way it is you will just make it worse/easier for it to pop out again...
+1
The only way to do it.
Look closely for a fine crack in that lower PB socket of the Hub. Some times you can't see it. Sometimes one P. ball pulls out for the stupidest reason out of no where. And sometimes without any fracture of the hubs PB socket. But look closely. The crack or split is hard to see sometimes. I have continued using a split Hub before, like when out in the field. You can buy some time depending how hard you bash. Many go to Alloy Hubs/uprights. I still prefer the Plastic stockers, they are so cheap to replace and much lighter. I rather have the flex and break this part than using Alloy hubs and breaking other $parts$.
 
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Once the pivot ball pops out, it will continue to pop out more and more easily since the plastic has been stretched. You can definitely reinstall and carry on by all means. You'll know when it's time to replace when they pop out regularly..Order some replacements to have ready..the red aluminum caps that secure the hub to the pivot ball can be cross threaded very easily too. Might be wise to grab some of those to have on hand too.
 
Once the pivot ball pops out, it will continue to pop out more and more easily since the plastic has been stretched. You can definitely reinstall and carry on by all means. You'll know when it's time to replace when they pop out regularly..Order some replacements to have ready..the red aluminum caps that secure the hub to the pivot ball can be cross threaded very easily too. Might be wise to grab some of those to have on hand too.

That is true.
So be careful when re-inserting those caps..
 
That is true.
So be careful when re-inserting those caps..
Yes!! Don't two-fist it like me🤪😬
Honestly the caps only get screwed up by forcing them in.. easy does it and you shouldn't need to replace the caps..
It's the weird angle relationship between the threads and hub that get me..they look like they're straight(caps) when they're not..very fine threads too..take ur time, they should thread fairly easily, if not, they're crossed..
+1
The only way to do it.
Look closely for a fine crack in that lower PB socket of the Hub. Some times you can't see it. Sometimes one P. ball pulls out for the stupidest reason out of no where. And sometimes without any fracture of the hubs PB socket. But look closely. The crack or split is hard to see sometimes. I have continued using a split Hub before, like when out in the field. You can buy some time depending how hard you bash. Many go to Alloy Hubs/uprights. I still prefer the Plastic stockers, they are so cheap to replace and much lighter. I rather have the flex and break this part than using Alloy hubs and breaking other $parts$.
I have no issues with the composite hubs either. Yes, I've had to replace but, something has to give. Like you said, they're an easy and cheap sacrifice vs aluminum. To each their own. My only gripe is the thin wall inner bearings on the Arrma 6s line. I see HR makes aluminum with oversized inner bearings, kinda pricey though. Bearings are what a buck a piece. Alright, gripe over!!😉🤣🤣🍻
 
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I have 3 rigs with alloy hubs/upgraded inner bearings all still original. I go through composite hub inner bearings on my typhon/tyjave every 5-10 packs but it was a budget track build.

I have a coin pouch of HD inner bearings but haven't needed to open it, has anyone ever had one go out through normal abuse??
 
I have 3 rigs with alloy hubs/upgraded inner bearings all still original. I go through composite hub inner bearings on my typhon/tyjave every 5-10 packs but it was a budget track build.

I have a coin pouch of HD inner bearings but haven't needed to open it, has anyone ever had one go out through normal abuse??
I don't go through them that fast (5-10 packs) nor have I had them fall right apart like my brothers OE Talion front end on day one.
For me, it's basically every time I pull an axle for something, which isn't often, I find crunchy bearings.. if I were smart, I might have a routine er sumthin'..but, I'm not soo..basically keep a sleeve or two on hand at all times. Replace whenever I have it apart, every time.
 
I don't go through them that fast (5-10 packs) nor have I had them fall right apart like my brothers OE Talion front end on day one.
For me, it's basically every time I pull an axle for something, which isn't often, I find crunchy bearings.. if I were smart, I might have a routine er sumthin'..but, I'm not soo..basically keep a sleeve or two on hand at all times. Replace whenever I have it apart, every time.
The small inner bearings have always skipped crunchy rotation for me, every time ends up with the bearing outer race going "ejecto seato cuz" along the axle binding up steering and the output cup!
 
The small inner bearings have always skipped crunchy rotation for me, every time ends up with the bearing outer race going "ejecto seato cuz" along the axle binding up steering and the output cup!
Must be my lil stock systems that has spared me..but, didn't help with the Talion that was 100% stock. We chalked that up to "Cuz..China"😉🤣🤣🍻
 
all back together,just a test drive Tomorrow and maybe some tweaking.i can’t believe it just popped right out

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