Granite Just made a long CVD for Granite with Typhon RPM arms

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I think there is a new option with the release of the Mojave 4s. The Mojave 4s provides a driveshaft upgrade, with 17mm hexes, and extremely beefy axles. Furthermore, I think it can be done without modifying any parts. However, you will have to buy a number or parts.

The Mojave 4s arms/hubs/steering blocks give you a wider stance than a Granite/Vorteks/Senton. **EDIT - According to the post below, the stance is about the same as a Typhon/Big Rock.

***** Big Edit
Kraton/Outcast/Mojave hubs will NOT fit on 3s arms. So you can’t use Granite/Vorteks/Typhon/Big Rock arms with the new driveshafts. You have to use Mojave or Kraton/Outcast arms

To use the new 4s driveshafts you also have to get 4s arms, axles, c-hubs, rear hubs, hexes/nuts/pins, and steering blocks. If you use Mojave arms and driveshafts, you have to use Mojave steering blocks. If you use Kraton/Outcast arms you need the Keaton/Outcast steering blocks. The Mojave also has a different steering rack.

So, to upgrade to the new 4s driveshafts
- Mojave or Kraton/Outcast arms
- Mojave or Kraton/Outcast driveshafts
- Mojave or Kraton/outcast turnbuckles/rod ends
- Mojave or Kraton/Outcast steering blocks
- 4s wheel axles
- 4s 17mm hexes
- 4s hex nuts
- 4s hex pins
- 4s C-hubs

I’m currently building a swb with Mojave arms/steering blocks/driveshafts/steering rack. I have not driven it yet, but I can tell you the 4s parts feel like such higher quality than 3s parts. The arms, axles and turnbuckles are so beefy. The wheel bearings are huge. The fit feels much tighter. This may change after I run it, but right now, there is no wobble!
 
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I think there is a new option with the release of the Mojave 4s. The Mojave 4s provides a driveshaft upgrade, with 17mm hexes, and extremely beefy axles. Furthermore, I think it can be done without modifying any parts. However, you will have to buy a number or parts.

The Mojave 4s arms/hubs/steering blocks give you a wider stance than a Granite/Vorteks/Senton, *EDIT and just slightly *wider than a Typhon/Big Rock.

The driveshafts for the 4s Mojave are the same front and rear. I think the length will also work for both Granite and/or Typhon arms without modification. But I have not tried this, so I can’t be sure. You may have to shorten them a little, but that is easy to do.

But to use the new 4s driveshafts with existing 3s models you also have to get 4s axles, c-hubs, rear hubs, hexes/nuts/pins, and steering blocks. They are all the same for the 4s models (Mojave, Kraton, and Outcast) except the Mojave has different steering blocks. *EDIT - the Mojave also has a different steering rack.

The Mojave steering blocks only work with Mojave front arms. Mojave front arms are very short, so the steering blocks extend out further to make up the length. If you use Mojave steering blocks with other arms, your front will be wider than the rear. However, I think Kraton/Outcast steering blocks will keep front and back the same width. But again, I haven't tried it so I can't be sure.

So, to upgrade a Granite/Vorteks/Senton/Typhon/Big Rock to the new 4s driveshafts while keeping your current arms/turnbuckles, I think the best way is:
- Mojave 4s driveshafts
- 4s wheel axles (Mojave/Kraton/Outcast)
- 4s 17mm hexes (Mojave/Kraton/Outcast)
- 4s hex nuts (Mojave/Kraton/Outcast)
- 4s hex pins (Mojave/Kraton/Outcast)
- 4s C-hubs (Mojave/Kraton/Outcast)
- Kraton/Outcast steering blocks

As an alternative, if you want to swap your current arms and turnbuckles for Mojave arms and turnbuckles, you will need Mojave steering blocks instead of Kraton/Outcast. *EDIT - again, the Mojave also has a different steering rack.

I’m currently building a swb with Mojave arms/steering blocks/driveshafts/steering rack. I have not driven it yet, but I can tell you the 4s parts feel like such higher quality than 3s parts. The arms, axles and turnbuckles are so beefy. The wheel bearings are huge. The fit feels much tighter. This may change after I run it, but right now, there is no wobble!

As I've said, I'm trying this with Mojave arms. So, there's a chance the Mojave driveshafts are too long for Granite arms and/or Typhon arms. I would love to hear if others are able to upgrade their 3s this way. If they are too long, I think simply trimming them will make them work.

(P.S. The 4s axles and hexes are not the same as Typhon 3s 17mm axles and hexes. Typhon axles and hexes will not work with 4s driveshafts.)
I am considering this upgrade for the rear axle of my Typhon.

I see that the hex pin on the Mojave is the same as the Typhon. So I would think that the actual 17mm wheel hex (edit, Typhon wheel hex will not fix because of the inner diameter), nut and pin can be used from the Typhon.

Thinking out loud I would need:
- Mojave 4s cvd drive shaft - ARA210011 - 60 euro
- Mojave 4s suspension arm - ARA330790 - 10 euro
- Mojave 4s rear hubs - AR330522 - 6 euro
- Mojave 4s bearings - few euros
- Mojave 4s things pins - AR330524 - 3 euro
- Mojave 4s wheel hex 17mm - ARA310988 - 10 euro

If I manage the job with these parts and the rear becomes bulletproof, it seems a decent investment. I also like the bigger wheel bearing.

Assuming that the Mojave suspension arms fit the Typhon 3s chassis?
Or could I make the Mojave 4s rear hubs fit the Typhon arms?
What are your thoughts?
 
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I am considering this upgrade for the rear axle of my Typhon.

I see that the hex pin on the Mojave is the same as the Typhon. So I would think that the actual 17mm wheel hex (edit, Typhon wheel hex will not fix because of the inner diameter), nut and pin can be used from the Typhon.

Thinking out loud I would need:
- Mojave 4s cvd drive shaft - ARA210011 - 60 euro
- Mojave 4s suspension arm - ARA330790 - 10 euro
- Mojave 4s rear hubs - AR330467 - 6 euro
- Mojave 4s bearings - few euros
- Mojave 4s things pins - AR330524 - 3 euro
- Mojave 4s wheel hex 17mm - ARA310988 - 10 euro

If I manage the job with these parts and the rear becomes bulletproof, it seems a decent investment. I also like the bigger wheel bearing.

Assuming that the Mojave suspension arms fit the Typhon 3s chassis?
Or could I make the Mojave 4s rear hubs fit the Typhon arms?
What are your thoughts?
I recommend using the Mojave arms. Will add a little width to it - will be much more stable, but a little less nimble. Unless they made a change with the new 4S arms and connection to chassis - they should fit. In the past all the V1 4s stuff would fit the 3s platform.

May look pretty cool if you just did the rear - so the rear would be wider than the front - kind of like a 4wd 1:1 sandrail!
But if you want all the same - need to do the full front conversion also.
 
The Mojave rear hubs should fit Typhon arms no problem. As HZRDOS mentioned if you want slightly wider, you can switch to Mojave arms and hubs front and rear.
Last week I was in my LHS and the Mojave 4S arms are shorter then the Typhon 3s arms.
I think that the Mojave 4 arms and hubs combined are a bit longer/wider then the Typhon 3s arms and hubs.
When upgrading to this setup I will use the Mojave arms and hubs.
 
Started ordering parts to convert the rear of my Typhon 3s to Mojave 4s spec. Will be using be using these parts:

Driveshaft CVDARA210011
Wheel hexARA310988
Rear suspension armsARA330790
HINGE PIN 3X48.5MMARAC5029
HUB REAR: 4X4 BLX 4SARAC5043

And the necessary bearings.
Ordered the CVD driveshaft and wheel hexes from Jennysrc, will be my first experience with them.
Will buy the other parts at my LHS.
 
Started ordering parts to convert the rear of my Typhon 3s to Mojave 4s spec. Will be using be using these parts:

Driveshaft CVDARA210011
Wheel hexARA310988
Rear suspension armsARA330790
HINGE PIN 3X48.5MMARAC5029
HUB REAR: 4X4 BLX 4SARAC5043

And the necessary bearings.
Ordered the CVD driveshaft and wheel hexes from Jennysrc, will be my first experience with them.
Will buy the other parts at my LHS.
Do you have stock shocks?

Will they work with the new arms? Sometimes the location of the mount changes the geometry of the suspension and the shocks need to be longer/shorter. Just curious.

What about the rear hubs?
 
Do you have stock shocks?

Will they work with the new arms? Sometimes the location of the mount changes the geometry of the suspension and the shocks need to be longer/shorter. Just curious.

What about the rear hubs?
Ah yes, also need the 4s hubs, forgot to add them to the list.

I have 6s shocks, good point regarding the mounting point. Thanks for pointing that out.
Otherwise I will modify the 4s rear hubs to fit the Typhon arms, I have some RPM arms in stock.
 
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Mojave 4s arm and hub vs Typhon 3s arm and hub.
As an assembly they have the outer wheel bearing at more or less the same location, within 1mm I would say. So I think total width of the rear drive train will not change.

Waiting for the Mojave 4s drive shafts and wheel hex, but it seems a 1:1 fit with the Typhon.

Shock mounting position is a little different and will lift the rear a bit. I don't think that will really be an issue.

Getting excited!
Will consider these 4s mud guards as well.
 
Would these dog bones be better? Looking for strength + reliability:
https://amzn.to/4aoiyBP
I’ve never tried them, but judging by videos, even on the 6s line, dog bones are one of the most frequently bent parts.

The plastic 3s driveshafts NEVER get bent, the problem has always been the u-joints popping. I’m hopeful these new 4s driveshafts solve that problem and provide the most durable driveshafts around.

Mojave 4s arm and hub vs Typhon 3s arm and hub.
As an assembly they have the outer wheel bearing at more or less the same location, within 1mm I would say. So I think total width of the rear drive train will not change.
so mojave arms and hubs actually end up slightly shorter than Typhon?
 
Big edit. 4s hubs DO NOT fit on 3s arms. So to upgrade to the new 4s driveshafts, you have to use Mojave or Kraton/Outcast arms. Hubs are the same width, but they changed the pin position. Not sure why, seems like they could have easily kept them compatible.
 
Thanks @slick2500. This hybrid creation seems to be the best option then.

Would these dog bones be better? Looking for strength + reliability:
https://amzn.to/4aoiyBP
No those are cheap bling parts again, literally every RCAWD, Hobbypark whatever name they are selling under on Amazon/eBay/Aliexpress driveshaft is all the same story cheaply made, they bend, break or fall apart and you cannot buy parts for them so again you have to buy an entire set if something breaks or gets lost. This or stock is your best option. If you are running shocks other than stock make sure they are the same length as the stock ones or you will continue to break the stock ones.
 
Big edit. 4s hubs DO NOT fit on 3s arms. So to upgrade to the new 4s driveshafts, you have to use Mojave or Kraton/Outcast arms. Hubs are the same width, but they changed the pin position. Not sure why, seems like they could have easily kept them compatible.
@Karanicasscotty@gmai Made it happen:

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...ranite-with-typhon-rpm-arms.35882/post-626526

You do need to modify the plastics, but when I have the parts in my hands, I also see it possible.
Hinge pin of the Typhon arms is 3mm, the Mojave 4s has 3mm hinges pins, but it is manageable to drill the 4s hub to 4mm.

Considering that with the Typhon, the width does not seem to change, you would always recommend to use the Mojave 4s arms.
 
@Karanicasscotty@gmai Made it happen:

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...ranite-with-typhon-rpm-arms.35882/post-626526

You do need to modify the plastics, but when I have the parts in my hands, I also see it possible.
Hinge pin of the Typhon arms is 3mm, the Mojave 4s has 3mm hinges pins, but it is manageable to drill the 4s hub to 4mm.

Considering that with the Typhon, the width does not seem to change, you would always recommend to use the Mojave 4s arms.
Try to actually put the arm into the hub. It doesn’t fit. Plus the screw that holds the pin in is in a completely different position. But yeah, in the end, just go with Mojave arms. The mud guards are nice. :).

Not necessary, but did you also get the turnbuckles and rod ends? 5mm! They’re so beefy.
 
Try to actually put the arm into the hub. It doesn’t fit. Plus the screw that holds the pin in is in a completely different position. But yeah, in the end, just go with Mojave arms. The mud guards are nice. :).

Not necessary, but did you also get the turnbuckles and rod ends? 5mm! They’re so beefy.
I would like to order the mud guards but the info on the arrma website is incorrect. Part number leads nowhere.

For now I will use the 3s turnbuckles, but the 5mm turnbuckles have my attention for sure. I do not like the plastic pivot balls I have to say.
 
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