Kraton Kraton 4S 2.5 Steering

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oprime110

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Newbie question here: My son and I each have a new Kraton 4S 2.5 and I notice that the steering; well to put it mildly sucks. I noticed that the truck uses a servo saver, and I think that is the cause. 1. Why doesn't the metal servo use a simple horn? 2. Is there a better solution? I've seen some videos on the Kimbrough servo. I have a Savox 1210 in my E-Revo which I am thinking about moving to the new truck.

Does that seem like a good move? Would a horn be sufficient?
 
Newbie question here: My son and I each have a new Kraton 4S 2.5 and I notice that the steering; well to put it mildly sucks. I noticed that the truck uses a servo saver, and I think that is the cause. 1. Why doesn't the metal servo use a simple horn? 2. Is there a better solution? I've seen some videos on the Kimbrough servo. I have a Savox 1210 in my E-Revo which I am thinking about moving to the new truck.

Does that seem like a good move? Would a horn be sufficient?
Some guys are doing just a aluminum horn. Down side might break a steering link or the gears in the servo strip. I did the HD kimbrough servo savor. Off power plenty of steering. On throttle the outcast 4s v2 front wheels are off the ground.

Welcome to the forum and enjoy the new kraton.
Happy MEMORIAL Day weekend!!
 
Yes, this is a common issue with the 3s / 4s line. It is worse with larger tires. The Kimbrough is a good option but needs some modification for clearance. Certainly better than stock. I have seen people put a couple small wood type screws into the top of the saver to limit the spring and tighten. I have not tried this option but it seems like it would work. Yes, you could put a standard arm on but then you have no protection for the servo. Try one or two screws here:

1716640822627.png
 
Yes, this is a common issue with the 3s / 4s line. It is worse with larger tires. The Kimbrough is a good option but needs some modification for clearance. Certainly better than stock.

I have seen people put a couple small wood type screws into the top of the saver to limit the spring and tighten. I have not tried this option but it seems like it would work. Yes, you could put a standard arm on but then you have no protection for the servo. Try one or two screws here:

View attachment 368545

Interesting.
I've not seen that mod done before..

That gives me a cool idea!
 
If anybody tries this, LMK! I already put the kimbrough 124 spring into the stock saver.
I will do something very soon. My question is; how do you swap the spring in a servo saver?

Some guys are doing just a aluminum horn. Down side might break a steering link or the gears in the servo strip. I did the HD kimbrough servo savor. Off power plenty of steering. On throttle the outcast 4s v2 front wheels are off the ground.

Welcome to the forum and enjoy the new kraton.
Happy MEMORIAL Day weekend!!
Thanks for the follow-up. I have a Savox 1210 in my E-Revo that will be making a move to this new truck soon. I want to drive it for a few days before I make any changes. After that, i will see what I can do to improve the steering. All of the Savox servos have been rock solid. None of them use servo savors, so the servo and a horn should make the Kraton corner well, right?
 
I will do something very soon. My question is; how do you swap the spring in a servo saver?
It’s a bit finicky, but entirely possible. You pry the smaller piece with the splines in it out from one side (thin flathead/chisel) then just try to get in the edge of the large flat disk on the other side and pry it out. Same procedure for both. The Arrma saver is annoying to get back together, there’s a video a YouTube, but basically you stick a flathead screwdriver in the little slot in the large disk that holds down the spring, then put the spring in the main piece with a little bit sticking out and use the disk with the driver in it to kind of swivel and snap the whole thing together. I’ll find the video and post it later, you can look up Arrma 25t servo saver rebuild I think it’s a red one.
 
If you can keep the front wheels full contact on the ground. If not you'll get steering bush.
 
It’s a bit finicky, but entirely possible. You pry the smaller piece with the splines in it out from one side (thin flathead/chisel) then just try to get in the edge of the large flat disk on the other side and pry it out. Same procedure for both. The Arrma saver is annoying to get back together, there’s a video a YouTube, but basically you stick a flathead screwdriver in the little slot in the large disk that holds down the spring, then put the spring in the main piece with a little bit sticking out and use the disk with the driver in it to kind of swivel and snap the whole thing together. I’ll find the video and post it later, you can look up Arrma 25t servo saver rebuild I think it’s a red one.
Is this the video:
 
Yes, this is a common issue with the 3s / 4s line. It is worse with larger tires. The Kimbrough is a good option but needs some modification for clearance. Certainly better than stock. I have seen people put a couple small wood type screws into the top of the saver to limit the spring and tighten. I have not tried this option but it seems like it would work. Yes, you could put a standard arm on but then you have no protection for the servo. Try one or two screws here:

View attachment 368545
Could probably squeeze some flexible adhesive into those holes to tighten up things as well. Just a thought.
 
Howdy All! I tried something...

I took the Savox 1210MG servo out of my E-Revo and put it in my Kraton. I used the E-Revo servo horn that was connected to the truck. It fit perfectly. Unfortunately, it is plastic and while running my truck and my son running his, we collided. 100% my fault, so I am buying the replacement parts. My truck hit his head-on and mine did a few flips in the air before I landed on the wheels. His had a bent shock shaft. Little did I know that I shredded the teeth of the servo horn. The servo is fine. I am going to try an aluminum alternative next. If you have any suggestions, I am all ears.
 
Howdy All! I tried something...

I took the Savox 1210MG servo out of my E-Revo and put it in my Kraton. I used the E-Revo servo horn that was connected to the truck. It fit perfectly. Unfortunately, it is plastic and while running my truck and my son running his, we collided. 100% my fault, so I am buying the replacement parts. My truck hit his head-on and mine did a few flips in the air before I landed on the wheels. His had a bent shock shaft. Little did I know that I shredded the teeth of the servo horn. The servo is fine. I am going to try an aluminum alternative next. If you have any suggestions, I am all ears.
Ooooch🤕
 
Howdy All! I tried something...

I took the Savox 1210MG servo out of my E-Revo and put it in my Kraton. I used the E-Revo servo horn that was connected to the truck. It fit perfectly. Unfortunately, it is plastic and while running my truck and my son running his, we collided. 100% my fault, so I am buying the replacement parts. My truck hit his head-on and mine did a few flips in the air before I landed on the wheels. His had a bent shock shaft. Little did I know that I shredded the teeth of the servo horn. The servo is fine. I am going to try an aluminum alternative next. If you have any suggestions, I am all ears.
If you get an aluminum horn, you will strip the servo out instead. I recommend sticking to a plastic one if you're doing a direct drive setup.
 
I know many people recommend the Kimbrough, but I don’t think it’s much better than stock. When you first install it maybe, but over time it loosens up like crazy and it’s just as bad as stock. A new stock servo saver might make the same difference when first installing.

I recently installed the Losi LMT servo saver mod. Big improvement over stock and the Kimbrough. However, on power still wider turning than I hoped for. I may try a fixed link next, for now I’m happy with the Losi mod.
 
I know many people recommend the Kimbrough, but I don’t think it’s much better than stock. When you first install it maybe, but over time it loosens up like crazy and it’s just as bad as stock. A new stock servo saver might make the same difference when first installing.

I recently installed the Losi LMT servo saver mod. Big improvement over stock and the Kimbrough. However, on power still wider turning than I hoped for. I may try a fixed link next, for now I’m happy with the Losi mod.
I think I will go with the Kimbrough for now. Do you have a link for the Lost mod?

What are your thoughts on the Hot Racing servo saver? I noticed that there are now two; one that handles multiple spline types and one that is specifically 25 tooth.

- Multiple Spline version: https://amzn.to/3RpbNIX
- 25 Tooth: https://amzn.to/3x1sKSt
 
I think I will go with the Kimbrough for now. Do you have a link for the Lost mod?

What are your thoughts on the Hot Racing servo saver? I noticed that there are now two; one that handles multiple spline types and one that is specifically 25 tooth.

- Multiple Spline version: https://amzn.to/3RpbNIX
- 25 Tooth: https://amzn.to/3x1sKSt
I have never tried the Hot Racing servo saver because I’ve seen many people on this forum saying it is problematic. *EDIT - the plastic swappable splines stripping are what most people complain about. The (new?) dedicated 25 spline version probably doesn’t have this problem, but I haven’t tried it.

Losi servo saver mod.
Some added tips. Simple spacers are cheaper/easier than the servo spacers he uses. Also, I think the 6mm he uses is not enough clearance. Others have said 8mm works. I use a thicker servo link. I needed 10mm. I used these. M3 x 10mm Hex Aluminum Standoff... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B97D4WWZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

You will have to relocate the on/off switch. After adjusting the servo saver tightness to your liking, loc-tite it or it will come loose. You can only do this once because after that it’s basically permanently fixed. If you try to loosen it, you can’t get a good grip since it strips easily.
 
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I have never tried the Hot Racing servo saver because I’ve seen many people on this forum saying it is problematic.

Losi servo saver mod.
Some added tips. Simple spacers are cheaper/easier than the servo spacers he uses. Also, I think the 6mm he uses is not enough clearance. Others have said 8mm works. I use a thicker servo link. I needed 10mm. I used these. M3 x 10mm Hex Aluminum Standoff... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B97D4WWZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

You will have to relocate the on/off switch. After adjusting the servo saver tightness to your liking, loc-tite it or it will come loose. You can only do this once because after that it’s basically permanently fixed. If you try to loosen it, you can’t get a good grip since it strips easily.
Thanks. I'll take a look.
 
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