- Messages
- 6,392
- Reaction score
- 12,585
- Arrma RC's
- Nero
The ring gears are a lot beefier on the newer diff design. The guys are also a bit revised. If setup properly the lsd diffs In open config do a whole lot better job of being beef cake
Kraton Kraton 6S EXB Diff Shim Set to Open Diff - Beware
- Thread starter parcou
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
parcou
Premium Member!
Premium Member
Hospitality Award
Rig of the Month Winner
Build Thread Contributor
- Messages
- 6,245
- Reaction score
- 9,187
- Location
- Memphis, TN
- Arrma RC's
- BigRock
- Felony
- Fireteam
- Granite
- Infraction
- Kraton EXB
- Talion EXB
- Typhon TLR
- Vorteks
- Thread starter
- #42
Here is my point of view but it is only worth $0.02 since I am new to K6S LSD. I have a large list of PMs that I asked of those with LSD. Many like the LSD for all 3 and half I PM used lighter oils or stock based on how the LSD works. Then there were some that did it like the RTR rear diff open.
What I found in my case with stock LSD and rear LSD with 5K diff oil the rear was still locking and causing the rig to spin out (this is no AVC or anything) just when all that power of 1650kv hit it spun around. This was my situation and based on PMs some others found it not as stable or controllable as they liked with rear LSD. This is why I went open in the rear stayed LSD for the other f/c diffs but used RTR weights.
Test and see again was a mixed bag still not as many have LSD compared to open diffs so feedback was hard.
- Messages
- 2,249
- Reaction score
- 4,507
- Arrma RC's
- Kraton 4s
- Outcast 4s
- Outcast EXB
- Talion EXB
I like less moving parts.
With the LSD plates, the star plates are stationary, they do not rotate during diff action. They are locked into the tabs on the diff housing. The round plate spins with the sun gear. They are locked into the sun gear tabs. This rotation of the round plates against the star plates creates the additional diff "locking" action by friction. But...when there is "diff action" of the sun gears rotating at a different speed, the plates slipping creates friction...and heat. Lots of heat if they slip a bunch. I don't like this heat. My diff got REALLY hot once, and warped the plastic diff case a bit causing it to sling out a bunch of diff fluid. I don't like that. Also the plates create a wear point.
I feel that a correctly built open diff is much stronger and will last longer.
GRIFFINJ
Active Member
- Messages
- 238
- Reaction score
- 347
- Arrma RC's
- Infraction
- Limitless
- Kraton 8S
- Kraton 6s
- Kraton EXB
- Mojave EXB
- Notorious
- Outcast 8s
- Typhon 6s
Toy would have to change:
Diff housings
Diff internals
Diff Ring and pinion
Not really woth the expense for the LSD
The only advantage is the EXB parts (diff parts) are beefier.
Diff housings
Diff internals
Diff Ring and pinion
Not really woth the expense for the LSD
The only advantage is the EXB parts (diff parts) are beefier.
You can buy the complete EXB LSD assembly from Jenny's pretty cheap relatively. That's what I was eyeballing.
I enjoy wrenching more than I do driving to be honest. It's one of the main reasons I bought one of these, so I could tinker with it. So from the below it sounds like the best setup on a BLX would be a front EXB LSD diff, EXB LSD Center Diff, and stock rear diff or an EXB LSD converted to open for the rear. I'm assuming the EXB center diff is a direct swap for the BLX?
Ok, I did some research and it seems there's either an assembly error on the EXB units, or there's been an engineering or parts change that is un-documented.
I took a look at the EXB manual (which is way better than the BLX manual by the way) and it shows an LSD front and center diff but what I believe is an open rear diff. Interestingly the EXB parts on Jenny's RC say "LSD" for front and "OPEN" for rear but show the same p/n so they are both likely LSD.
I enjoy wrenching more than I do driving to be honest. It's one of the main reasons I bought one of these, so I could tinker with it. So from the below it sounds like the best setup on a BLX would be a front EXB LSD diff, EXB LSD Center Diff, and stock rear diff or an EXB LSD converted to open for the rear. I'm assuming the EXB center diff is a direct swap for the BLX?
Ok, I did some research and it seems there's either an assembly error on the EXB units, or there's been an engineering or parts change that is un-documented.
I took a look at the EXB manual (which is way better than the BLX manual by the way) and it shows an LSD front and center diff but what I believe is an open rear diff. Interestingly the EXB parts on Jenny's RC say "LSD" for front and "OPEN" for rear but show the same p/n so they are both likely LSD.
parcou
Premium Member!
Premium Member
Hospitality Award
Rig of the Month Winner
Build Thread Contributor
- Messages
- 6,245
- Reaction score
- 9,187
- Location
- Memphis, TN
- Arrma RC's
- BigRock
- Felony
- Fireteam
- Granite
- Infraction
- Kraton EXB
- Talion EXB
- Typhon TLR
- Vorteks
- Thread starter
- #46
Yep...confusing
I had no idea what I was going to get if my rear would be LSD or not and it was full LSD for Oct purchase. Many guys had the EXB many months before I did even past calendar. Horizon had a mix going on here....
So sounds like you can just take the star/rings for LSD out of the EXB rear and replace with a washer of proper thickness and make it an open diff then.
I have a launch version with the open rear diff with the wrong shims and no spacer. I fixed it by putting an LSD plate kit in it, minimal effect for the rear, and running super light fluid. 3,000.
parcou
Premium Member!
Premium Member
Hospitality Award
Rig of the Month Winner
Build Thread Contributor
- Messages
- 6,245
- Reaction score
- 9,187
- Location
- Memphis, TN
- Arrma RC's
- BigRock
- Felony
- Fireteam
- Granite
- Infraction
- Kraton EXB
- Talion EXB
- Typhon TLR
- Vorteks
- Thread starter
- #49
Yes...
What I did to my full LSD rear. Shims and one circle LSD as part of the shim. I will add a second after 20 run maintenance. You are correct. Circle LSD is for the sun gear tab protection since sun gear is different from the RTR.
milehighspeed
Active Member
So just tagging some info to what mine shipped with. Purchased November 2021 and mfr date was 12/12/2020 and it came with lsd plates set to min effect. Just my two cents but I Have poked around and haven’t seen anyone confirm they ever got a shipped open diff configuration so I believe the diagram for an open diff that’s in the manual is just informational.
the big shims for configuring an open diff are available for purchase separately as an aftermarket item but the intention was always to have 3 LSD diffs with the middle and front being the “max” effect and the rear being the “min” effect.
Does the manual describe what constitues "min effect"? The part numbers on the diff seem the same from everything I can find.
Ah, got it and thanks!
Edit, the manual I DL'd from Arrma doesn't have that, is it in a separate doc? Not that I don't trust ya, I'd like to DL a copy to have on hand.
Edit, the manual I DL'd from Arrma doesn't have that, is it in a separate doc? Not that I don't trust ya, I'd like to DL a copy to have on hand.
Last edited:
milehighspeed
Active Member
It’s in the “29mm diff exploded view” in the downloads just under the main manual download. It’s also in the interactive explodes view I believe.
Thanks! Found it in the Kraton EXB exploded view and grabbed a copy. Interesting they include it in the Typhon/Outcast manual directly, but is what it is I guess. The person writing that one must have been more detailed LOL
parcou
Premium Member!
Premium Member
Hospitality Award
Rig of the Month Winner
Build Thread Contributor
- Messages
- 6,245
- Reaction score
- 9,187
- Location
- Memphis, TN
- Arrma RC's
- BigRock
- Felony
- Fireteam
- Granite
- Infraction
- Kraton EXB
- Talion EXB
- Typhon TLR
- Vorteks
- Thread starter
- #58
I never found the pdf in any manual for an RC. I found it on their site with the shim kit Arrma made if you wanted to go open:
https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/ARA311094
The original batch at launch built summer of 2020 came with an open rear diff without the proper shims in many of them, so some exploded.
milehighspeed
Active Member
So I’m getting this lockout of the diff often (or just way too stiff action that “pops” or jumps as opposed to the smoother chatter or click of the LSD effect) when I tighten the screws down final. If I loosen them just a little the diff feels fine and all is good, so I know there isn’t a damaged gear causing bad mesh or anything. It’s definitely just the compression of the system when screwed tight. I’d just go with loosening them but oil is leaking from the screws when I do (doesn’t take much loosening for oil to dribble out). I’m about to try this “cracking” method but obviously a little nervous as this doesn’t sound normal at all. Not to distrust you here spoc but anyone else confirm this is a safe and logical maneuver? Typically I’m against brute force methods just cause it shouldn’t be necessary.
