Kraton Kraton 8s EXB. XLX2, 1100KV motor and 30/47 gearing. Raminator servo

[afreek1000]

Yup easy fix, just make sure you get enough heat on it or it won’t stick. You digging those trenchers?

 

[Moirae]

Yup easy fix, just make sure you get enough heat on it or it won’t stick. You digging those trenchers?

I know you aren't asking me but I just tried them at the bmx spot for first time and it was great. I even landed on the sidewalk a few times and they made the most horrible noise when I landed . They survived though and had me feeling like that 220$ was totally worth it. I did break a rear a arm for first time though

 

[Armarookie43]

Yup easy fix, just make sure you get enough heat on it or it won’t stick. You digging those trenchers?

Yup. These tires have been phenomenal. Even through that construction site. The only place that they don't work well is concrete or probably going around the track. But they are for bashing, not that kind of stuff. The most durable rims and tires I've tried so far for my big rigs. Everything else fell apart or became unglued easily (Duratrax, stock tires, and Powerhobby tires).

 

[afreek1000]

I know you aren't asking me but I just tried them at the bmx spot for first time and it was great. I even landed on the sidewalk a few times and they made the most horrible noise when I landed . They survived though and had me feeling like that 220$ was totally worth it. I did break a rear a arm for first time though

Yes, I hate to say I do go through arms a lot. Other than that, and hinge pins don’t really break much else too often.

 

[Moirae]

Yes, I hate to say I do go through arms a lot. Other than that, and hinge pins don’t really break much else too often.

Do you just replace with stock hinge pins? trying to figure out if I should keep stalking jenny's or if there is another easier option. Jennys always sold out of hinge pins lol.

 

[Armarookie43]

Do you just replace with stock hinge pins? trying to figure out if I should keep stalking jenny's or if there is another easier option. Jennys always sold out of hinge pins lol.

I think stock ones are good enough.
Beatdown from construction site yesterday :

 

[afreek1000]

I think stock ones are good enough.
Beatdown from construction site yesterday :

Very nice

Do you just replace with stock hinge pins? trying to figure out if I should keep stalking jenny's or if there is another easier option. Jennys always sold out of hinge pins lol.

Yes, I’ve also tried these which hold up probably about as well as stock and a little cheaper per piece. You just have to shave down 5 mm. I do with a belt sander.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B27MJC6/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I agree regarding Jenny’s RC.

The thing with that. If you look at all 4 8S models, you may be able to find one where the hinge pins are in stock. They are all the same for all four models.

 

[Armarookie43]

New XLX2 installed in my dirty ass K8S. What a contrast. Also my front bulkhead is being held by just two bolts in the bottom. It's time for a new one. These stock bulkheads don't crack, but they do strip where the bolts go. That's why I put a Vivaton aluminum one in the rear.

 

[afreek1000]

New XLX2 installed in my dirty ass K8S. What a contrast. Also my front bulkhead is being held by just two bolts in the bottom. It's time for a new one. These stock bulkheads don't crack, but they do strip where the bolts go. That's why I put a Vivaton aluminum one in the rear.

View attachment 222180

Agreed, I moved to Vitavon a while ago since then have not had one issue with the bulkheads. I think aluminum strategically placed here and there is definitely beneficial while leaving plastic as stress failure points on easy fixes.

 

[Armarookie43]

Agreed, I moved to Vitavon a while ago since then have not had one issue with the bulkheads. I think aluminum strategically placed here and there is definitely beneficial while leaving plastic as stress failure points on easy fixes.

Absolutely. Aluminum in some key areas like the bulkheads help a lot, while keeping things like the arms plastic (and even the shock towers on the 8s Arrmas), has worked very well.

 

[Moirae]

Funny you say that because when I first got my k8s exb and I saw plastic shock towers I had a real WTF moment. Being so used to the 6s rig I thought I got ripped off and was kind of salty. I haven't had any problems with the plastic shock towers yet though.

 

[Raginbull74]

Funny you say that because when I first got my k8s exb and I saw plastic shock towers I had a real WTF moment. Being so used to the 6s rig I thought I got ripped off and was kind of salty. I haven't had any problems with the plastic shock towers yet though.

I think the stock plastic towers are pretty stout. I have never seen or heard anyone breaking them. As for the metal ones, I'm sure they are fine, but like above, having plastic in some parts has a cushioning effect. The only reason to go metal shock towers on 8s rigs is for the bling imo.

 

[Armarookie43]

Funny you say that because when I first got my k8s exb and I saw plastic shock towers I had a real WTF moment. Being so used to the 6s rig I thought I got ripped off and was kind of salty. I haven't had any problems with the plastic shock towers yet though.

Nope. And I have landed upside down from like 26ft on those things. Ironically, the metal driveshaft in the center (going towards the front) got bent due to center module coming off the vehicle completely

 

[SrC]

I messed up the right rear shock cartridge (leaking) and destroyed one lipo battery (Arrma strap broke off). I also bent the upper front chassis brace like a banana. I've never done that with my Outcast 8s (the chassis brace) with the same jumps. I still strongly believe that the O8S is a better basher. That's been my experience. It just breaks and bends less stuff with my 20ft jumps. That's been my experience :

I agree that the K8 longer and heavier chassis adds enough weight as well as more leverage to break parts. OC8 always had my interest for this reason alone. Many say the OC8 breaks less for them.

 

[Armarookie43]

I agree that the K8 longer and heavier chassis adds enough weight as well as more leverage to break parts. OC8 always had my interest for this reason alone. Many say the OC8 breaks less for them.

I eventually did bend that shorter center brace on the O8S too, but it took a lot more effort to do it. That's not a problem anymore after putting carbon fiber tubes around those suckers

 

[SrC]

CF sleeves work.
Every single 6S rig I own has a CF sleeve over the T2T. No more bending. Seems they would bend easily, otherwise.
I found that only my SWB Notorious never bent the shorter T2T brace without the CF sleeve. But I did it anyway. Good insurance no doubt.
The SWB Typhon RTR/TLRT, never came with a T2T, most probaby due to the Lower profile and tight buggy body fitment. But this keeps the Typhon light. Noto and Typ. run the same chassis length.

 

[Raginbull74]

CF sleeves work.
Every single 6S rig I own has a CF sleeve over the T2T. No more bending. Seems they would bend easily, otherwise.
I found that only my SWB Notorious never bent the shorter T2T brace without the CF sleeve. But I did it anyway. Good insurance no doubt.
The SWB Typhon RTR/TLRT, never came with a T2T, most probaby due to the Lower profile and tight buggy body fitment. But this keeps the Typhon light. Noto and Typ. run the same chassis length.

I've seen the sleeves on some trucks....who's the vendor?

 

[SrC]

I get mine at AMZ.

Measure the O.D. of your OE braces and shop accordingly. Buy longer lengths and cut them as need. O.D. of your brace should match the I.D. of the CF tubes/sleeves. It should be precise to the MM to work/fit snug effectively. This is a popular mod.

>>>Don't inhale the CF dust when cutting them. Breathing CF dust is very bad. Causes Black lung disease. Very toxic. Wear a mask, do this outside. Best. Work smartly around CF. I use a dremel or hack saw. Place Masking tape over the areas you will make the Cuts. Place cutting marks on the Tape. Cuts should be very Square. Take your time.

I additionally use some CA around the cut edges to keep the Carbon fibers neat, smooth, and from splintering. Let dry before installing over the stock braces. Excess Dried CA can be sanded away if its a tight fit.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Carbon+fiber+tubes&crid=36UVT2QVKDXZO&sprefix=carbon+fiber+tubes,aps,82&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

 

[Raginbull74]

I get mine at AMZ.

Measure the O.D. of your OE braces and shop accordingly. Buy longer lengths and cut them as need. O.D. of your brace should match the I.D. of the CF tubes/sleeves. It should be precise to the MM to work effectively. This a popular mod.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Carbon+fiber+tubes&crid=36UVT2QVKDXZO&sprefix=carbon+fiber+tubes,aps,82&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

Awesome....seems to be an easy diy mod....just wasn't sure if there was a specific rc vendor that was manufacturing them...sweet! Thanks!
I've only bent my top front once...so any insurance is good insurance.

 

[SrC]

If RC vendors offered these for this purpose , the price would be too much. Like with many RC stuff that is just repurposed materials and $marked up$ just because it becomes RC related.
One example being RC Boutique Oils and grease. Tiny quantities at high prices. When all it really is, is repurposed Automotive grease and oil. As one example. Same with RC Fans. They are just repurposed PC fans for the most part. Yet cost more than they should.... just for the RC market. Like they are gold or something.