Kraton Kraton Hard to handle

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Bruce

Fairly New Member
Messages
39
Reaction score
10
Arrma RC's
New V3 Kraton with fresh shimms and oil 100/500/100, Backflip tires running 6's. Rear end fishtails and spins out way to easy, except on grass. I also have a Outcast and there is no comparison.
Is The Kraton rear that much lighter and is just prone to fishtailing. I have adjusted the spring rates and haven't noticed any improvement .
Can any one offer any advice

Thanks
 
I tried Running factory stock first, still really loose. Thought the thicker oil and Backflip's would tame it some.
No change
 
I tried Running factory stock first, still really loose. Thought the thicker oil and Backflip's would tame it some.
No change

The 500k oil in the center diff is going to make it behave like a locked diff for the most part. As others have recommended, use a lighter fluid in your rear diff and you will likely see a bit less of that "loose" feeling.

In my Kraton, I run 60k/200k/30k, and I still get some understeer as expected. In looser material I still get oversteer when I force it a little, but I still feel very in control. The same diff fluids in the Talion provide a much tighter feel and will oversteer a bit easier.

Your mileage may vary, but I'd consider lightening up those diff fluids a bit.
 
Sounds like a plan, now I have to figure out how to get 500K out of that diff.
 
i agree with dingo. i was running 50k front 500k center 50k rear and it was doing what you described. its like the rear of the truck wants to catch up with the front and it just dog legs under moderate throttle. going to 50k front 200k center 20k rear helped alot and it still sends enough power to the rear. the thinner fluid in the rear helps tighten the turning radius and helps keep it straight under power. i could tell a difference between 20k and 50k.to get the 500 out of the center i would just take it apart and put all the gears and shims in a little container and flush them with some carb cleaner and just wipe out the housing as good as you can. honestly i just used paper towels and no carb cleaner. don't give up on it. it took me 3 tries messing around with different weights to get it how i liked it.
 
Last edited:
You said it best, "the rear wants to catch up to the front". Good for drifting but not much else.
 
its like the rear of the truck wants to catch up with the front and it just dog legs under moderate throttle.

Yes! This was exactly what I was thinking, but couldn't describe. I always felt like the rear was "pushing" for lack of a better word.

Thank you for being a mind reader!
 
glad to be of service. i went from 200 to 500 back to 200. switched back after one bash because i didnt like it.
 
I have 30k,100k,10k in my V3 Kraton. It pushes into turns & that's all I need to end the fishtailing. I run 100k,1mil,30k in my Outcast. Full control on full nutty-mode. Talion's still stock. It felt perfect. I'll try that setup in my MT410 if I ever turn it back into an ET48.3. It's running the same as the Outcast for now.
 
I would definitely run a thinner oil in the rear diff, as 100k in the rear is too thick. Also maybe try a thinner weight in the center diff as well. I'm using 50k/100k/7k in my Kraton. My V3 Talion, I will go with the same diff weights, but may try 150k in the center.
I agree, FreddyBrady said it best and explained this quite well. Not a good setup when your rear is trying to pass your front end...
 
The thicker oil in your center diff is going to send more even power to your rear apon acceleration. I just put in 100k in the center after shimming and only run 4s on 16t pinion. It's pretty noticeable the amount of power that stays in the rear while under heavy acceleration.
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top