Latching system?

[Barrister]

Evening I was just wondering apart from the xmaxx are there any other brands or models which don't require body pins.? Also what are people's experience with the latching system as a whole?

Cheers

T

 

[Jerry-rigged]

I would not want that Traxxas latching system.
Seems that in most x max videos, half the time that that X Maxx crashes, the body flies off. The very first video I saw of the new E-Revo 2, halfway through the video, the truck crashed in the body flew off. Body pins are sometimes a pain, and sometimes they get lost. But still it's rare that I have my body self eject mid bashing.

 

[arrmadillo]

It seemed like a good concept but very problematic.

 

[olds97_lss]

Same thing on the traxxas rustler 4x4. Cool in theory, but you end up with the body popping off a lot. I think Kevin Talbot modified the front mount or body mount on his x-maxx to extend the area that it latches into so it would be less likely to pop off, but he said it made it more fiddley to put it back on.

I hate body clips... should covert to the proline screw caps. My fingers don't work as well as they used to and I almost always have to resort to using pliers to get them on/off.

 

[Barrister]

Thanks I'll look into the above suggestions. I just hate body clips and find it tires my hands having to remove them everytime I have to change batteries. Are there any models like a buggy or similar, which allows you to slid the batteries in and out through say the roll cage? Rather than having to remove the entire body.!!

 

[Mike-NLD]

Are there any models like a buggy or similar, which allows you to slid the batteries in and out through say the roll cage? Rather than having to remove the entire body.!!

Losi has the 1/10 scale Rock Rey and Baja Rey.. Where you open a small door to slide your packs in from behind..

Also they have the 1/6 Super Rock Rey and Super Baja Rey.. Where you take of a part of the chassis to put the packs in from the bottom..

In both cases.. Its not all that.. This because you need to put the battery connector through a hole to plug it in.. And that.. Can be a pain in the rear!

 

[Outcastblxnut]

If body clips are a prob. Then you probably don't work on your own truck??‍
You can always get wing nuts n screw um on to your body post

 

[Klappars]

@Barrister why not put zip ties or rubber tags on your body clips so you can remove them easier?

 

[arrma_tigger]

Thanks I'll look into the above suggestions. I just hate body clips and find it tires my hands having to remove them everytime I have to change batteries. Are there any models like a buggy or similar, which allows you to slid the batteries in and out through say the roll cage? Rather than having to remove the entire body.!!

Losi has the 1/10 scale Rock Rey and Baja Rey.. Where you open a small door to slide your packs in from behind..

Also they have the 1/6 Super Rock Rey and Super Baja Rey.. Where you take of a part of the chassis to put the packs in from the bottom..

In both cases.. Its not all that.. This because you need to put the battery connector through a hole to plug it in.. And that.. Can be a pain in the rear!

UDR (Unlimited Desert Racer), they slide in from underneath.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

@Barrister why not put zip ties or rubber tags on your body clips so you can remove them easier?

I do. Helps, but still...

 

[arrmadillo]

There's a body pin removal tool that's been around for years, don't actually remember where I've seen it. Tower's catalog maby or RC Car Action magazine possibly.

You could achieve the same thing with a pair of pliers but I imagine this tool hooks through the pin and pulls at the right angle without marring you pins.

Always seemed like overkill to me but the way my hands hurt these days it wouldn't be a bad idea to have one.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

On the X-Maxx I noticed that you really had to fight with the body latching some times. Also turning the latch itself wasn't a low torque movement. I don't see it being significantly easier. It was cool don't get me wrong...

I believe @Barrister you had mentioned that you would have a helper along with you most likely when running the RC. I would stick with the original Arrma setup and have your helper assist.

Ideally with careful driving you won't be popping it open until you are done 30 mins after starting.

-Liberty

 

[SrC]

It seemed like a good concept but very problematic.

You are being kind.
I say it is Traxxas Garbage. A marketing tool that just never worked. Great concept. The worst execution however in a basher rig no less. Junk.
Go and watch Kevin Talbot. Some say he is the torture king. But in contrast to his other brand rigs, bodies don't separate like the TRX latch design does. There are many other videos showing Failed latch runs.
It is just comical. My son and I laugh all the time. It is like playing basketball, and on every jump shot your pants are always falling down to your knees. A body should never completely separate from the chassis. Especially a hardcore basher rig. IMO

 

[GMballistic]

Personally I've never had any problem with "R" clips on RC cars but then I am lucky and don't have any arthritis or other related hand/finger issues.

An issue I find/have seen is people struggling using the wrong sort of "R" clips for their RC vehicles. For example if you look at your "R" clip and it is flat then unless it has a tether on it to aid removal just throw it in the bin. They should always have a slightly elevated hoop end imho to aid removal otherwise they're just flat against the body and very difficult to remove.
Also you can buy "R" clips with very large hoop ends, ...these are great for body posts in tight positions or people who may have problems like arthritis as there is more to grab on to. Some of the hoop ends are actually big enough just to poke your finger through.
Like these...

Otherwise maybe try making your own tether system similar to what's available now but just bigger with more to grab onto.

 

[SrC]

Sometimes I bend the loops on flat pins with a pair of pliers to give them an angle upward to grab and pull/push.
Tethered always makes it a bit easier to handle.

 

[jondilly1974]

I bend mine too. The zip tie with tubing looks like a good idea too. They are cheap if they break.

 

[Outcastblxnut]

I

Personally I've never had any problem with "R" clips on RC cars but then I am lucky and don't have any arthritis or other related hand/finger issues.

An issue I find/have seen is people struggling using the wrong sort of "R" clips for their RC vehicles. For example if you look at your "R" clip and it is flat then unless it has a tether on it to aid removal just throw it in the bin. They should always have a slightly elevated hoop end imho to aid removal otherwise they're just flat against the body and very difficult to remove.
Also you can buy "R" clips with very large hoop ends, ...these are great for body posts in tight positions or people who may have problems like arthritis as there is more to grab on to. Some of the hoop ends are actually big enough just to poke your finger through.
Like these...
View attachment 46720

Otherwise maybe try making your own tether system similar to what's available now but just bigger with more to grab onto.
[/QUOTE. I use these too just thread um through the old rubber holders. They work awsome. So easy and you don't rip the rubber tabs out trying to get um off

 

[SrC]

Bright colored zipties and tubing also make it easier to find lost ones if they are not tethered to the body. Dubro also makes good rubber

tethers.

 

[Mike-NLD]

If finger gripping power is the problem.. How about just attaching a key chain ring to the clip? So you can put a finger through there to pull it?

 

[SrC]

I tried that too. It can work. Depending on your body, size of key rings, and how you drive, key rings can cause the pins to pull out when bashing hard.