Kraton Leopard 4092 1730kv

Ole Fart51

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Thinking about buying the Leopard 4092 motor, tired of burning up Momba 2. Anyone run this motor? Any other recommendations? Any mods needed to use the leopard?
 

Kauaiguy

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Just need to tap the mounting holes to 4mm and install the matching esc/motor connections.The esc should be rated 150amps .
 

Timritchieblue

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Do you own a temp gun?

Any motor is going to run hot unless you tune with a temp gun. I have the 1480(s),1600(s), 2000(s), & 2200(s). Some vehicles need more torque, some more motor speed. Ussally depend so on the weight.

Tune for efficiency, not speed, your electronics will last forever.
 

Ole Fart51

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https://arrmaforum.com/threads/modification-of-the-weekend.2021/


Funny to see this thread, I was just reading about this exact motor and now want it myself! My new 1550 kv motor is running hot on 5s with 13t pinion and wish I had just bought that to begin with!
The strange thing is, I'm running the Momba monster 2 on my Kraton and Talion. The Talion never gets over 155 degrees. This is the second Momba that had burned up on the Kraton. Both burned up within 2 runs on 5s. When they burned up, temp was only 168. Running same 15 tooth pinion on both trucks. I think it's time to look at other motors.
 

ParkRacing

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Should not burn up! Kraton tires will stress the system more than talion tires so the gearing should be a adjusted accordingly. But still your esc should not burnup!
 
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Ole Fart51

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Do you own a temp gun?

Any motor is going to run hot unless you tune with a temp gun. I have the 1480(s),1600(s), 2000(s), & 2200(s). Some vehicles need more torque, some more motor speed. Ussally depend so on the weight.

Tune for efficiency, not speed, your electronics will last forever.
I agree but I don't think temp is the issue, 168 shouldn't be a problem, I think it's a manufacturer problem
 

Vanning

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Mamba Monster X ESC shows amps, voltage, ripple voltage, errors, watts etc. It will give you an idea if something is stressing the system. Example...I was running a 2200KV on 6S, the battery was dropping way down on voltage, Luckily the ESC did shut down long enough for me to start investigation. It did shut down but it reset itself and fired back up pretty fast. One could just easily keep going if they wanted to. I decided to stop and dump the data out and take a gander. The voltage sag was dropping below the lipo cut off too much. Stuff was getting hot, amps were way up..etc. Bottom line...the setup was way inefficient and causing heat. I could see the errors recorded on the log. The battery I was using looked like it couldn't take the 2200KV motor for long. (didn't think it would) The motor temps were fine due to the fan but the ESC was screaming a little and the battery was also. So...I just aborted that battery and motor for a while. I revisited 6S with a much lower KV motor. Now... It's much more efficient, temps are very low on everything...the entire system produces very little heat....just enough to get the job done. The Kraton is a little heavy, I like it with a low KV, high voltage system to power it. It's efficient and fast...not stressing anything out. If the battery is warm for a long time after a run...that's a good indication that that thing is taking a woopin. After a full run, my packs are back to ambient/ room temp in a matter of a few mins. When I stress a battery out....it takes a long time to cool it down. Look at everything as a system..not just motor temps.



A Lipo alarm is also a good way to see if your battery is dropping voltage during a run.

Also..this ESC has a very good internal BEC in it which is nice to have. Very robust ESC this is.
 
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Vanning

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Weight seems to always get me....Both un-sprung weight and sprung weight.

Take the X-Maxx for example... Notice that it's being redesigned as an 8S truck ? It's too slow on 6S for us crazy basher people. It's too big and heavy for 6S and they can't get enough out of it on 6S.

To make it better...it actually has to have more voltage. The motor, battery, ESC and drive line has to be changed.

The weight of the Kraton... has to be considered when choosing the power system. I ran it light with lower voltage...Badlands are light weight, stock body is light and the stock motor is light. Now I run heavy...heavy tires, heavy body, heavy servo, heavy motor... In my opinion, I need the 6S. IDK...I could be wrong also.

The Kraton fits from a 12T to a 23T..there is plenty of gearing to fit where you need to be as long as other components are correct also . I feel the stock motor is at home on 5S and no added weight. It can do 6S but that for me started to get warm with not so good batteries and all the added do dads. Bumpers, tires, chassis brace, metal parts etc. I was looking for smaller pinion but I was at the lower point.
 
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ParkRacing

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This is the first heavy vehicle I have ever had so I have been unprepared for the amount of juice and motor I need. Expensive lession. I will just sell the two new motors I have purchased for it and get it right with the Leopard. "I hope"!
 

Vanning

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This is the first heavy vehicle I have ever had so I have been unprepared for the amount of juice and motor I need. Expensive lession. I will just sell the two new motors I have purchased for it and get it right with the Leopard. "I hope"!

Give Kershaw Design a call or a text and tell them what you want from the Kraton. They set me up on my 6S. I got my Leopard motor from them.
 

Ole Fart51

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Give Kershaw Design a call or a text and tell them what you want from the Kraton. They set me up on my 6S. I got my Leopard motor from them.
Did you get the 4092 1730kv? I ordered mine today. What are you using for support on rear of motor? Are the wires long enough to reach the ESC?

Should not burn up! Kraton tires will stress the system more than talion tires so the gearing should be a adjusted accordingly. But still your esc should not burnup!
I'm running same tires on both trucks
 

Vanning

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Did you get the 4092 1730kv? I ordered mine today. What are you using for support on rear of motor? Are the wires long enough to reach the ESC?

those are a few motor pics

I use the 4292 1480kv on 6S. I included a few pictures that show the wires, supports etc. the piece of carbon fiber bridging the 2 diff towers holds my capacitors and also stiffens the 2 metal diff hangers. The fan cools my diff, the motor doesn't get hot.
 

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ParkRacing

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I use the 4292 1480kv on 6S. I included a few pictures that show the wires, supports etc. the piece of carbon fiber bridging the 2 diff towers holds my capacitors and also stiffens the 2 metal diff hangers. The fan cools my diff, the motor doesn't get hot.
That's sweet, I didn't know the Leopard motor had cooling nubs! All the pictures I have seen show a smooth can? That looks nice!
Just got my 2.2 drill blanks for the diffs.

I use the 4292 1480kv on 6S. I included a few pictures that show the wires, supports etc. the piece of carbon fiber bridging the 2 diff towers holds my capacitors and also stiffens the 2 metal diff hangers. The fan cools my diff, the motor doesn't get hot.
Just checked that motor from Kershaw designs. Was super stoked until I saw it only comes in 1480 kv....... ugggggg, I want it but cannot afford to buy 6s now. My Tekin rx8 died, two new motors that don't do the job, and 3 new 5s lipos.....
This truck build is becoming way more expensive than I could have anticipated. And I have only run it maybe a dozen times...

Would I be able to gear your setup high enough to run 5s. I believe you have it geared to the moon to get the speeds you want with 6s? I just want to enjoy it now and have it future proof for 6s eventually!

One more question, should I get the Castle or Max 8 esc?
 

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Vanning

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The Leopard 4292 has the nubs the 4092, same motor, has no nubs.

The nubs make it 2mm fatter.

I need to get the drill bit blanks also, I'm rebuilding my diffs as we speak. I went with the aluminum diff housing.

For ESC's I only know about the Castle Mamba Monster X. I always use Castle but I would not mind or hesitate to try anything else. However... if something works well, stay with it.

I would not mind trying a Max8... looks nice. I've been using Castle for years and never have issues. That's the main reason I just got the MMX.
 

Ole Fart51

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The Leopard 4292 has the nubs the 4092, same motor, has no nubs.

The nubs make it 2mm fatter.

I need to get the drill bit blanks also, I'm rebuilding my diffs as we speak. I went with the aluminum diff housing.

For ESC's I only know about the Castle Mamba Monster X. I always use Castle but I would not mind or hesitate to try anything else. However... if something works well, stay with it.

I would not mind trying a Max8... looks nice. I've been using Castle for years and never have issues. That's the main reason I just got the MMX.
Did you say aluminum diff housing? For the Kraton? I didn't know they were available. How do I get my hands on them?
 

Vanning

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That's sweet, I didn't know the Leopard motor had cooling nubs! All the pictures I have seen show a smooth can? That looks nice!
Just got my 2.2 drill blanks for the diffs.


Just checked that motor from Kershaw designs. Was super stoked until I saw it only comes in 1480 kv....... ugggggg, I want it but cannot afford to buy 6s now. My Tekin rx8 died, two new motors that don't do the job, and 3 new 5s lipos.....
This truck build is becoming way more expensive than I could have anticipated. And I have only run it maybe a dozen times...

Would I be able to gear your setup high enough to run 5s. I believe you have it geared to the moon to get the speeds you want with 6s? I just want to enjoy it now and have it future proof for 6s eve

I have to run a 20 tooth on the 1480KV on 6S. That will easily pull a 52mph run. My goal was a 50mph truck. I have a 19, 20, 21, and 22 tooth to play with. Motor temp is about 130-140 at the end of a run average so I feel the 20 tooth is the sweet spot on my motor. If it's too cool...you are not geared right also.

The nubs are nice...if you need to slide a heatsink on to this motor...you don't scratchit all up. It just rides on the nubs. Then you can drill holes in the top of the heatsink and just blast fan air down and around all the nubs. The cooling is unreal with this method. .
 

ParkRacing

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The Leopard 4292 has the nubs the 4092, same motor, has no nubs.

The nubs make it 2mm fatter.

I need to get the drill bit blanks also, I'm rebuilding my diffs as we speak. I went with the aluminum diff housing.

For ESC's I only know about the Castle Mamba Monster X. I always use Castle but I would not mind or hesitate to try anything else. However... if something works well, stay with it.

I would not mind trying a Max8... looks nice. I've been using Castle for years and never have issues. That's the main reason I just got the MMX.
Totally understand, I have been using HobbyWing for years with excellent results so I will stick with that. Just didn't know if you had experience with both and went with Castle.
 

Vanning

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Nope...the Hobbywing stuff looks real nice. If I build another RC...I will try Hobbywing out for sure. It looks real nice to me.

I think the 1780KV will be much better on 5S. It should keep cool rather nicely. One day I'll run my 1480KV on 5S to see what it does. I can just slap it in as is now just to get an idea.

I ran my 1780KV hard on 6S....it got too hot for me to run full packs. I think it was due to how hot the actual ambient temp was for me at the time. You would think it would stay cool on 6S. IDK what was going on but you may have better luck than I did with a 1780KV. Other people run it...they only say it gets toasty with bigger tires. Other people tell me it's no good on 6S....but then you see Thomas P. ripping it in Kratons all day. It's also negative 18 degrees where he is. IDK...RcJuice said no good on 6S in a Kraton. I didn't do well with it on 6S. A few other guys say it's good. It might be boarder line depending on weight, battery quality and outside temps. ??? Trial and error. $$$
 
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