Limitless Limitless GT big can finally ready to go fast

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It's not going to be a totally speed runner, just some times

Want to use it for both drift drag speedruns

My infraction just have a 50 buks art 😁
I'll think this a so fun, killing tires 😁


Not saying that the limetless is for that, but I'm not only a speed runner
 
i see you decided to settle it the good ol' american way, MORE SPEED AND MORE POWAH
LOL Yes Sir, true I had the Infraction in my sites but my goal was more speed and decided
the Limitless would be the easiest route plus...the Cool feature :)
Its a really nice looking vehicle.
It's not going to be a totally speed runner, just some times

Want to use it for both drift drag speedruns

My infraction just have a 50 buks art 😁
I'll think this a so fun, killing tires 😁


Not saying that the limetless is for that, but I'm not only a speed runner
True the Infraction can be a fast car for sure but wanted the Built it Myself satisfaction...even if it ends in flames LOL Hope not hehe
 
i see you decided to settle it the good ol' american way, MORE SPEED AND MORE POWAH
The viking way,
LOL Yes Sir, true I had the Infraction in my sites but my goal was more speed and decided
the Limitless would be the easiest route plus...the Cool feature :)
Its a really nice looking vehicle.

True the Infraction can be a fast car for sure but wanted the Built it Myself satisfaction...even if it ends in flames LOL Hope not hehe
Yes the infraction is a awesome car

The built is better, no stock electronics 😁
 
LOL Yes Sir, true I had the Infraction in my sites but my goal was more speed and decided
the Limitless would be the easiest route plus...the Cool feature :)
Its a really nice looking vehicle.

True the Infraction can be a fast car for sure but wanted the Built it Myself satisfaction...even if it ends in flames LOL Hope not hehe
Im learning more and more each day, motor and esc are already picked out and likely will be in hands within 2 weeks. After many many searches and forum reads as well as a local guy who helped with input I decided to go for the 8S Castle combo with 1650kv motor. Im not that guy to want to try craziness and hit 160mph (plus) but if I can roll out 100+ I will be a happy camper.
 
Im learning more and more each day, motor and esc are already picked out and likely will be in hands within 2 weeks. After many many searches and forum reads as well as a local guy who helped with input I decided to go for the 8S Castle combo with 1650kv motor. Im not that guy to want to try craziness and hit 160mph (plus) but if I can roll out 100+ I will be a happy camper.
Same here
Getting my limitless out in the next couple of days, a little nervous haha
 
I also can't justify buying a 150€ savox 2290. Up till last month I did use a DS3235. But 'upgraded' it to a Jx CLS-HV7346MG, as the DS3235 does have some inconsistency/tolerance in it's neutral position. Hardly noticeable, but at ludicrous speed even 0.1deg can be annoying.
So the "upgrade" you mention did it perform better? It looks like a decent servo from what I see
Also did the stock Limitless servo arm fit the splines on this servo?
 
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So another learning curve question.
In my Airplane days, even quads for that matter the bigger the Can
means typically more torque and power, for example lets say I wanted a 1700kv motor and I had 2 options
a 2200 or a 2700 sized motor (poor example but..) generally we would go for the 2700 for the added power
that motor could supply top end, I assume the same is true with RC Car motors. In this example the Castle 1717/1650 kv and
the 1520/1650kv motors offered. The same mentality applies yes? Im sure the 1717 would naturally run cooler than the 1520 due to the size.
The 1520 may be faster out of the gate but top end would suffer as apposed to the 1717? Grant it there are a lot of variables I have not mentioned :)
Just trying to get a handle on the Tech Car side of things :)
 
So the "upgrade" you mention did it perform better? It looks like a decent servo from what I see
Also did the stock Limitless servo arm fit the splines on this servo?
Upgrade between "" because i cant say yet if it really performs better. On first impression, definitely yes but due to mostly bad weather here i have not tested it on high speeds.

So another learning curve question.
In my Airplane days, even quads for that matter the bigger the Can
means typically more torque and power, for example lets say I wanted a 1700kv motor and I had 2 options
a 2200 or a 2700 sized motor (poor example but..) generally we would go for the 2700 for the added power
that motor could supply top end, I assume the same is true with RC Car motors. In this example the Castle 1717/1650 kv and
the 1520/1650kv motors offered. The same mentality applies yes? Im sure the 1717 would naturally run cooler than the 1520 due to the size.
The 1520 may be faster out of the gate but top end would suffer as apposed to the 1717? Grant it there are a lot of variables I have not mentioned :)
Just trying to get a handle on the Tech Car side of things :)

In general, yes bigger can(diameter/length) means more power&heat dispersion. Weight of the copper windings is probably more accurate in terms of power.
kv is like an electrical gearbox, so a lower kv on the same can/mechanical gearing/voltage will pull less amps to reach it's max rpm. When you adjust the mechanical gearing to match the same max rpm, they basically behave the same.

As for mid rpm / top end optimization, there is some difference in the type of winding. Wye-wind is good for mid range and D-wind is slightly better in top end. But you will only notice the difference when it's load(gearing/weight) is up to the limit.
 
Upgrade between "" because i cant say yet if it really performs better. On first impression, definitely yes but due to mostly bad weather here i have not tested it on high speeds.



In general, yes bigger can(diameter/length) means more power&heat dispersion. Weight of the copper windings is probably more accurate in terms of power.
kv is like an electrical gearbox, so a lower kv on the same can/mechanical gearing/voltage will pull less amps to reach it's max rpm. When you adjust the mechanical gearing to match the same max rpm, they basically behave the same.

As for mid rpm / top end optimization, there is some difference in the type of winding. Wye-wind is good for mid range and D-wind is slightly better in top end. But you will only notice the difference when it's load(gearing/weight) is up to the limit.
Awesome thank you very much
 
That paint looks awesome 👍🏼 I bet in the sunshine it looks mega amazing..!!
Thank you 👍
I will make a video outside tomorrow
Also got this finished today
DSC_2054.JPG
 
So got a question and need an opinion.
I plan on using a Castle 12S Cap Pack in my limitless.
I see a lot of people using an RC connector so that they
can remove it easily if down the road they go a different route or need to change it out.
Here is the question. I plan on either going with the QS8 connectors for the battery/ESC
but can I jump the Cap Pack down to an XT60? Or otherwise an XT90?
I have seen fella's using the same connectors all around and get confused
and plug in the wrong connectors and....Ooops.
Does the Cap Pack take on as much amps as the battery to the ESC?
Follow me?
 
So got a question and need an opinion.
I plan on using a Castle 12S Cap Pack in my limitless.
I see a lot of people using an RC connector so that they
can remove it easily if down the road they go a different route or need to change it out.
Here is the question. I plan on either going with the QS8 connectors for the battery/ESC
but can I jump the Cap Pack down to an XT60? Or otherwise an XT90?
I have seen fella's using the same connectors all around and get confused
and plug in the wrong connectors and....Ooops.
Does the Cap Pack take on as much amps as the battery to the ESC?
Follow me?
I would use 8mm bullets for best connection and less real estate. Easy to switch from car to car or size. If the cap pack is polarity oriented, reserve bullet male/female order on positive lead to prevent wrong polarity.
 
I would use 8mm bullets for best connection and less real estate. Easy to switch from car to car or size. If the cap pack is polarity oriented, reserve bullet male/female order on positive lead to prevent wrong polarity.
Thanks @Msdn
I had thought about the bullets but I am curious.
I will likely create a series Y connector that will plug into the ESC power wires.
How do bullets this size fair with sparking? About the same as any connector I suppose?
 
Thanks @Msdn
I had thought about the bullets but I am curious.
I will likely create a series Y connector that will plug into the ESC power wires.
How do bullets this size fair with sparking? About the same as any connector I suppose?

You could just drain the cap pack without the batteries connected but power on the car.
 
So got a question and need an opinion.
I plan on using a Castle 12S Cap Pack in my limitless.
I see a lot of people using an RC connector so that they
can remove it easily if down the road they go a different route or need to change it out.
Here is the question. I plan on either going with the QS8 connectors for the battery/ESC
but can I jump the Cap Pack down to an XT60? Or otherwise an XT90?
I have seen fella's using the same connectors all around and get confused
and plug in the wrong connectors and....Ooops.
Does the Cap Pack take on as much amps as the battery to the ESC?
Follow me?
I use XT90 in reverse(so battery side on the esc) for my cappacks. imho the cappack can deal with one step down on the connector/cable table. Continues ampdraw/heat will be much lower then the battery connector, but due to peaks it still needs to be respectable(resistance/peak capability)
 
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