M2C CVD fail. 8S CVD that work?

[CRF81]

Hey guys trying to find 8S axles that last longer then a few runs. We all know the stockers break the pins at the diff. They also occasionally bend on bad landings. Well not that bad if it's not a airplane hitting wings on touch down.... I do great with stockers until the pin breaks under torque. Yes if I land on all left or right side I will at times bend them but not always. I was waiting like all of us to try the M2C solution. Well they fail as well... Honestly guys I give the straight up truth and I'm not a promoter of any sort but the M2C were as bad as stock! Save that big money and have several stock ones on hand when they do break. The M2C broke apart not even hard bashing. I was drifting my rig and doing power wheelies just messing around and I heard the dreaded clicking noise. Turns out on my last blast in a turn by myself I heard the axle fly out. I'm running a 1100 kv castle motor so it's good but no monster. Anyways guys my goal here is to talk about what works and what does not. I will do so respectfully and I will most definitely shame my own bad driving faults etc. But just the heads up don't waste money on M2C CVD axles! I'm posting this because I'm not alone my driving partner also broke his just messing around. M2C said we are doing on throttle landings etc breaking these and did not offer support except to purchase these high dollar CVDs again. I'm bummed because M2C has not let me down but these CVDs are junk. 1mm shorter to stop the bending well I can get that tiny amount with my grinder. Bottom line don't waste your money stock is better. I bought GPM CVD anyone try those yet?
Check my pic of M2C breaking clean off not bent. This happens on the hub side now. My friends Kraton did the exact same and has video of it. We will post on YouTube soon of this happening. Freaking embarrassing

 

[CRF81]

I know Hammer Down big disappointment
If you want 1 tiny mm shorter to help less bend, grind the stock ones. As far as the twist torque they handle its the same as stock. The M2C are thicker but they taper at the hub. Guess what broke? At the taper... M2C blamed me after giving feedback to them. I jump big but these broke during my testing not even playing hard. I didn't even get the chance to really jump or anything. Same as stock...
I may try the scorched RC titanium. I will post up on how those do. I ordered GPM just to see how they are. Will post pics and feedback on those as well.

 

[Hammer Down]

I just put the M2C’s in the rear of my K8s, we’ll see how long they last…

 

[CRF81]

Sorry to hear that. That is the worst place for torque. If you hear it clicking its cracked at the taper next noise will be it flying out. Front cvd don't take the weight and torque so no issue there but stock never had a problem either. Let us know how it goes. I don't want others on here to waste money and time for false promises. I thought maybe I did something wrong but my buddy broke his in the same place and we were use messing around no jumping just throttling hard wheelies throwing dirt around. His is on video we will post it. M2C gave us both the same excuse were on throttle landings bad drivers etc. Please buy more lol

 

[boohoo]

Never broken a pin ever stock or m2c which is whats in now. But i keep my punch on 2 or 3. And im just using 20m not ear plugs. Not sure what your set up is but earplugs and max punch is gonna give more driveline problems I would think. Only going by what I have done to mine and yeah never had a problem with them breaking.

 

[CRF81]

It's a mild set up going bigger when I do a stretched version soon. This truck runs castle 1100 kv sensored motor and XLX2 esc it is set on max punch as the 1100 doesn't have the torque like the 800kv does. The power is probably mid way so I played with gearing a bit finally going back to the 47 spur and I think it's a 32 pinion. That seemed to keep heat down while still plenty of power. 32 is the max had to file the mount for clearance. After all that found the front stock tires balloon so added 1 ear plug to the center diff and 500k rear 1mil front. Finally belted tires for general bashing. Still run copperhead for big air because there great cushions. The whole point of this post was to let others know they may want to save that extra $ and buy more stock ones. A part is only as strong as its weakest point and m2C taper at the hub side down to stock diameter. So no broken pins now the other side breaks. You can see in my pic no bends just clean break due to there design. The stock cvd gave me the same life span maybe even longer. My partner snapped his on first run. Embarrassing... I use other M2C upgrades no problem but won't waste another dollar on the CVD

 

[Jimbobjr]

I use the thicker gpm ones, I was bending the stock ones and straightening them, breaking pins etc. Running 1:1 56113 780kv. It’s a weapon...

 

[CRF81]

Going to try the GPM when they arrive. Most are from China but found 1 us shipper. Hopefully I'll see them this week. How have they held up for you? They look similar to M2C on thickness can't see any taper? The only big difference in design comes from scorched rc parts. That will be big $ for them plus shipping. I'll go that route if needed

 

[Jimbobjr]

Going to try the GPM when they arrive. Most are from China but found 1 us shipper. Hopefully I'll see them this week. How have they held up for you? They look similar to M2C on thickness can't see any taper? The only big difference in design comes from scorched rc parts. That will be big $ for them plus shipping. I'll go that route if needed

I just had the k8s out for a couple rips this weekend. They seem to be good. They are only a few dollars more than the stock ones.

The cvds are limited in strength because they can only be as big as the bearing allows. My guess as to why m2c ones are failing is the heat treating of the tool steel. It’s a balancing act. Make them too hard and they are brittle, too soft and they bend. The ones I’ve seen are broken and not bent. Hopefully they can come up with a stronger product.

 

[Mastaa]

I snapped the pins on the GPM ones just as easily as on the stock ones...

 

[Armarookie43]

I snapped the pins on the GPM ones just as easily as on the stock ones...

I bent the crap out of the GPM driveshafts too. Also in the front, one of them broke off completely where the CVD goes. I haven't tried out the M2C driveshaft that I installed on my Outcast 8s yet. I have punch control at 24% I believe on my XLX2 and 1100kv motor with 30/39 gearing. I'll see how it goes for me. I just have the stock 20 million diff oil inside my center diff. 1mill in the front and rear diffs.

Hey guys trying to find 8S axles that last longer then a few runs. We all know the stockers break the pins at the diff. They also occasionally bend on bad landings. Well not that bad if it's not a airplane hitting wings on touch down.... I do great with stockers until the pin breaks under torque. Yes if I land on all left or right side I will at times bend them but not always. I was waiting like all of us to try the M2C solution. Well they fail as well... Honestly guys I give the straight up truth and I'm not a promoter of any sort but the M2C were as bad as stock! Save that big money and have several stock ones on hand when they do break. The M2C broke apart not even hard bashing. I was drifting my rig and doing power wheelies just messing around and I heard the dreaded clicking noise. Turns out on my last blast in a turn by myself I heard the axle fly out. I'm running a 1100 kv castle motor so it's good but no monster. Anyways guys my goal here is to talk about what works and what does not. I will do so respectfully and I will most definitely shame my own bad driving faults etc. But just the heads up don't waste money on M2C CVD axles! I'm posting this because I'm not alone my driving partner also broke his just messing around. M2C said we are doing on throttle landings etc breaking these and did not offer support except to purchase these high dollar CVDs again. I'm bummed because M2C has not let me down but these CVDs are junk. 1mm shorter to stop the bending well I can get that tiny amount with my grinder. Bottom line don't waste your money stock is better. I bought GPM CVD anyone try those yet?
Check my pic of M2C breaking clean off not bent. This happens on the hub side now. My friends Kraton did the exact same and has video of it. We will post on YouTube soon of this happening. Freaking embarrassing

View attachment 161418

Damn that sucks. I'm going to try out one of the M2C driveshafts soon on my Outcast 8s running the XLX2 AND 1100KV motor.

 

[CRF81]

So GPM is probably going to snap pins as well. On the stock ones I was able to drive out the broken pin. I'm going to try to get a hardened drill bit in there or maybe titanium whatever I can fit just to see if it holds. Never broke a stock one just the pins.

 

[Armarookie43]

So GPM is probably going to snap pins as well. On the stock ones I was able to drive out the broken pin. I'm going to try to get a hardened drill bit in there or maybe titanium whatever I can fit just to see if it holds. Never broke a stock one just the pins.

It's going to snap pins and bend with time unfortunately. Android they also break like a twig too (in the front). The titanium ones that they sell (scorched rc is it?), someone here mentioned that they break pins too.

 

[CRF81]

Hopefully someone comes up with something beefier like used on real cars. 2 little pins isn't enough. Need a real CV joint or u joint. Maybe other 1/5 scales have a solution to adapt? When I bend them thats fine, usually bad landings. When they snap from general play I get disappointed in the part. Scorched RC has the titanium and the give different cups for larger pins. If anyone has tried them please chime in. There expensive but if they work. Gotta pay to play....

 

[Jimbobjr]

For the pins I just made a little press and push the old broken one out with the new one. Pins are pretty easy if you have a press. Somewhere I found buggy hinge pins that diameter and just cut them to length. I think the brand was Atomic but not sure. The cups are a joke on this model too. Can’t wait to see m2c price on those...I think they are making them if they haven’t already.

 

[Armarookie43]

For the pins I just made a little press and push the old broken one out with the new one. Pins are pretty easy if you have a press. Somewhere I found buggy hinge pins that diameter and just cut them to length. I think the brand was Atomic but not sure. The cups are a joke on this model too. Can’t wait to see m2c price on those...I think they are making them if they haven’t already.

Whats wrong with the drive cups? I haven't had any issues with them so far

 

[Jimbobjr]

Whats wrong with the drive cups? I haven't had any issues with them so far

I’m in for the night so no pics...they are wearing slots 90deg to the ones that are suppose to be there. I just keep running them. Mine was one of the first k8s off the boat in usa maybe they’re better now. Sorry to hear you’re bending the gpm’s. I was hoping they will hold up, so far so good for me.

 

[Armarookie43]

I’m in for the night so no pics...they are wearing slots 90deg to the ones that are suppose to be there. I just keep running them. Mine was one of the first k8s off the boat in usa maybe they’re better now. Sorry to hear you’re bending the gpm’s. I was hoping they will hold up, so far so good for me.

That's when I was starting out honestly with the stock electronics on the K8S and O8S. I rarely bend any of the driveshafts anymore or have bad landings because of the increased control in the air (rotation) from the XLX2 and 1100kv motors and my better driving. Maybe the GPM ones would work better for me now. I'll see how the M2C ones hold up first.

 

[atomos319]

Hey guys trying to find 8S axles that last longer then a few runs. We all know the stockers break the pins at the diff. They also occasionally bend on bad landings. Well not that bad if it's not a airplane hitting wings on touch down.... I do great with stockers until the pin breaks under torque. Yes if I land on all left or right side I will at times bend them but not always. I was waiting like all of us to try the M2C solution. Well they fail as well... Honestly guys I give the straight up truth and I'm not a promoter of any sort but the M2C were as bad as stock! Save that big money and have several stock ones on hand when they do break. The M2C broke apart not even hard bashing. I was drifting my rig and doing power wheelies just messing around and I heard the dreaded clicking noise. Turns out on my last blast in a turn by myself I heard the axle fly out. I'm running a 1100 kv castle motor so it's good but no monster. Anyways guys my goal here is to talk about what works and what does not. I will do so respectfully and I will most definitely shame my own bad driving faults etc. But just the heads up don't waste money on M2C CVD axles! I'm posting this because I'm not alone my driving partner also broke his just messing around. M2C said we are doing on throttle landings etc breaking these and did not offer support except to purchase these high dollar CVDs again. I'm bummed because M2C has not let me down but these CVDs are junk. 1mm shorter to stop the bending well I can get that tiny amount with my grinder. Bottom line don't waste your money stock is better. I bought GPM CVD anyone try those yet?
Check my pic of M2C breaking clean off not bent. This happens on the hub side now. My friends Kraton did the exact same and has video of it. We will post on YouTube soon of this happening. Freaking embarrassing

View attachment 161418

When your CVD broke did your truck lose its ability to move under its own power? Mine did and I am wondering if I also have a diff issue.

 

[Lukas412]

Damn, I've broke stock pins twice now and I bend the stock ones like noodles. On my 3rd bash or so on the M2C's. So far so good, but this is disappointing.