Motor brace needed with 6s?

[Velodromed]

You can’t determine the thickness of the two-side tape because it change depend of brand and other but the use of a flatscrew is a thing

The holder can be less long for lightness, just to hold motor back


The o-ring help for up and down non-moving but not for left and right n-moving

I know that would seem like the limitation…but since I’ve been using O-rings on all 3 of my 3s cars (6 months now) and I haven’t bent a mount. Before that I had bent several mounts within a couple months (stock and hot racing). This includes skate park launches, landing on the roof, landing on the side, nose darts and tail dives…it works regardless of the perceived limitations. Surprised the heck out of me.

I’m currently running 2 hot racing mounts,m and a newer 6 mm Arrma mount. My granite got a M2c mount several weeks ago That had a hot racing mount previously with an O ring around the can. I’m also running bigger motors, 3670, 3674 and 3665. On the bigger motors I simply put 2 O-rings. They work for me I stick with it.

 

[Tex Koder]

I see where you are going now. I guess I have never had an issue with that. IMHO any lateral forces to the motor from darts/tumbles etc. would be a fraction of the force on the motor from a regular jump/chassis slap. The body, wheels, arms, bumpers.....all the plastic absorbs that force.

True... when you're able to land "properly" to allow for those components to do it's job.

However, when Bashing.. that "idea" landing(S) is not always achieved.

The vertical force on the motor from normal chassis slapping is unavoidable, the energy has nowhere to go. I am running a PPS mount with o-rings on both HW 1650kv motors, along with o-ring on a corally 4068 and have never had any issues. I don't think I would want something blocking that much airflow around my motors. Or I could be totally off, that's why this hobby is great. Ton's of different ideas/experiences all going towards the same goal. Good luck.

.Sorry, somehow I screwed this message up. This is NOT a quote from Tex Koder. This is my opinion.

No worries.

The support-brace "block" you see in my draft concept is really "just a place holder, for dimensions"
that's not any where near the final product.

It won't block airflow once I start to trim into it (virtually in 3D) and create the final brace..

 

[Velodromed]

Here's a very rough draft of what I'm thinking of ,for your motor support-brace..

View attachment 208680

The underside-thickness will be adjusted once I have your exact specs.

And, depending on how you intend to hold it in place-
1. I can leave the bottom surface plain flat so you can just use double-side tape to hold it in place.. Or,
2. if you prefer to use M3 flathead screws I can design in space for brass fittings to more securely mount the brace to your chassis. Just let me know what you want it.

Hi Tex, it comes in at just 3mm space. What if the brace was made with ever so slightly softer material? So that acts as a bit of a cushion in itself? I’m not sure about installing it with screws. Think tape is best. Would it be a good idea to do one (or two), 1mm or so recessed areas on the bottom to fit small cuts of standard servo tape?
Thanks man for your effort here!!

 

[jschlosser0405]

Even with a bad landing though, something is going to hit the ground first that is going to absorb the impact. All the energy of a bad landing has to transfer from a wheel or bumper, to the arm, to the bulkhead, to the chassis, then to the motor. Those things break long before any substantial energy gets to the motor/mount. IMHO anything more under the motor is wasted weight and space. If we really want the motor to be unable to move, we would have to go 360 degrees around it with a mount tied to the chassis, ie the sledge mount idea.

 

[Velodromed]

Even with a bad landing though, something is going to hit the ground first that is going to absorb the impact. All the energy of a bad landing has to transfer from a wheel or bumper, to the arm, to the bulkhead, to the chassis, then to the motor. Those things break long before any substantial energy gets to the motor/mount. IMHO anything more under the motor is wasted weight and space. If we really want the motor to be unable to move, we would have to go 360 degrees around it with a mount tied to the chassis, ie the sledge mount idea.

Unless It’s been tried and failed or tried and worked, everything is conjecture at this point. I’m going to try it and I’m thrilled that Tex is helping me out here. I hope it is successful and works for me and for other people as well. If not, It was fun trying and we just may learn something along the way.

.Sorry, somehow I screwed this message up. This is NOT a quote from Tex Koder. This is my opinion.

I think I know what you did here, I’ve done similar before by backing up too much and Erasing some of the quote above. No worries!

 

[arrmamitch1]

Yes p

Unless It’s been tried and failed or tried and worked, everything is conjecture at this point. I’m going to try it and I’m thrilled that Tex is helping me out here. I hope it is successful and works for me and for other people as well. If not, It was fun trying and we just may learn something along the way.

Yes plastic absorb impact but when it’s all upgrading with aluminum it’s too all absorbless

 

[Velodromed]

Yes p

Yes plastic absorb impact but when it’s all upgrading with aluminum it’s too all absorbless

That’s why he’s making it out of plastic. Yup. Also why I asked him if it was possible to use a softer compound so that the brace self cushioned.

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

This is a couple different designs I have made for customers in the past it’s for the hobby wing 4985 but I can adjust the dimensions to fit your motor accordingly if you would like

 

[arrmamitch1]

That’s why he’s making it out of plastic. Yup. Also why I asked him if it was possible to use a softer compound so that the brace self cushioned.

Yes but our friend seems to be work with 3D print and i think the choice of materials is not large

 

[Velodromed]

Yes but our friend seems to be work with 3D print and i think the choice of materials is not large

That’s still beyond my abilities, I know nothing about 3-D printing. Wife and I aren’t starting on that until later this year. Right now we are conquering cricut and other crafting equipment material and…crap. All I know is a lot of amazing things can be done with it so why not try. If he’s willing to throw in with me on figuring this out, I’m game for sure.

Even with a bad landing though, something is going to hit the ground first that is going to absorb the impact. All the energy of a bad landing has to transfer from a wheel or bumper, to the arm, to the bulkhead, to the chassis, then to the motor. Those things break long before any substantial energy gets to the motor/mount. IMHO anything more under the motor is wasted weight and space. If we really want the motor to be unable to move, we would have to go 360 degrees around it with a mount tied to the chassis, ie the sledge mount idea.

That sledge mount idea seemed to work really well . I lost count of how many times it had to adjusted while bashing

 

[Tex Koder]

Even with a bad landing though, something is going to hit the ground first that is going to absorb the impact. All the energy of a bad landing has to transfer from a wheel or bumper, to the arm, to the bulkhead, to the chassis, then to the motor. Those things break long before any substantial energy gets to the motor/mount. IMHO anything more under the motor is wasted weight and space. If we really want the motor to be unable to move, we would have to go 360 degrees around it with a mount tied to the chassis, ie the sledge mount idea.

I hear everything you're saying.

Here's a brain teaser-
Pick up your rig yourself and have someone help control the throttle.. Have him or her give it full power and then you shake your rig around as violently as you can -WITHOUT hitting/slamming your rig into anything to allow the wheels, arms, chassis to have a chance to absorb any blunt impacts...
The forces you assert based on -just the mass of the motor itself- will torque it off alignment against the motor plate.

Nothing may happen or can be observed at that moment..
But when you do that a hundred to several thousand times... Something there will fatigue and get bent.

Now wouldn't it be wise to brace the motor from such forces ,if you can help it?

**********

Keep in mind
-I'm not saying you are wrong.

I'm just offering you another perspective of how different forces transfer to this particular component of our RCs.

 

[SrC]

I use an o-ring to brace the motor on my 3s cars and am wondering what y’all use on your 6s cars to brace the motor. Or is it needed even? It’s for a Notorious.
Thanks!

I never bent a stock 6s motor mount with a stock motor. Never used a shim, O-ring or anything. I guess if you are getting some 30 foot Big air with your Noto, anything is good insurance however.
>>>With the stock 6s motor mount, when you adjust for different gear meshes, The motor's chassis clearance measurements will vary also ( changes). The motor mount slides up higher with bigger gears and slides down with smaller ones So shimming/supporting the motor will change with different pinions IMHO. The 6s motor mount is angled. Motor won't slide level with the chassis. Unlike with the 4x4 rigs.
Food for thought.

 

[jschlosser0405]

I hear everything you're saying.

Here's a brain teaser-
Pick up your rig yourself and have someone help control the throttle.. Have him or her give it full power and then you shake your rig around as violently as you can -WITHOUT hitting/slamming your rig into anything to allow the wheels, arms, chassis to have a chance to absorb any blunt impacts...
The forces you assert based on -just the mass of the motor itself- will torque it off alignment against the motor plate.

Nothing may happen or can be observed at that moment..
But when you do that a hundred to several thousand times... Something there will fatigue and get bent.

Now wouldn't it be wise to brace the motor from such forces ,if you can help it?

**********

Keep in mind
-I'm not saying you are wrong.

I'm just offering you another perspective of how different forces transfer to this particular component of our RCs.

I guess I haven't heard of many people complaining about their motor mounts being bent up or sideways, seems to be bending down, from vertical impacts to the bottom of the chassis. Hell if a brace/wedge saves a single person from ever bending a mount or egging a motor can, then it's worth it. More options the better.

 

[Velodromed]

I never bent a stock 6s motor mount with a stock motor. Never used a shim, O-ring or anything. I guess if you are getting some 30 foot Big air with your Noto, anything is good insurance however.
>>>With the stock 6s motor mount, when you adjust for different gear meshes, The motor's chassis clearance measurements will vary also ( changes). The motor mount slides up higher with bigger gears and slides down with smaller ones So shimming/supporting the motor will change with different pinions IMHO. The 6s motor mount is angled. Motor won't slide level with the chassis. Unlike with the 4x4 rigs.
Food for thought.

That is excellent food for thought and I greatly appreciate it. I know you’ve got the experience to back up also. Just my tendency to look at preventive precautions getting carried away I guess…

 

[SrC]

^^^An oz of prevention always helps. Never hurts.

 

[L3phturn]

I know that would seem like the limitation…but since I’ve been using O-rings on all 3 of my 3s cars (6 months now) and I haven’t bent a mount. Before that I had bent several mounts within a couple months (stock and hot racing). This includes skate park launches, landing on the roof, landing on the side, nose darts and tail dives…it works regardless of the perceived limitations. Surprised the heck out of me.

I’m currently running 2 hot racing mounts,m and a newer 6 mm Arrma mount. My granite got a M2c mount several weeks ago That had a hot racing mount previously with an O ring around the can. I’m also running bigger motors, 3670, 3674 and 3665. On the bigger motors I simply put 2 O-rings. They work for me I stick with it.

While I get the general idea, what do you mean by "O ring" specifically? I don't have anything like that in my shop.

Hmmm. Um. Ok I know where I can get something. Local sex shop will have various "rings" for a certain body part that are flexible and will probably do the trick! LOL.

 

[Velodromed]

That is excellent food for thought and I greatly appreciate it. I know you’ve got the experience to back up also. Just my tendency to look at preventive precautions getting carried away I guess…

Still, if it can be done why not do it. By no means will I be getting great air at first. But I expect to have some really fiddlesticked up landings and wrecks while getting used to it. And if progression is the same as with my granite…when I finally hit the skate park yes, I will launch it as far and high as I possibly can.

 

[Velodromed]

While I get the general idea, what do you mean by "O ring" specifically? I don't have anything like that in my shop.

Hmmm. Um. Ok I know where I can get something. Local sex shop will have various "rings" for a certain body part that are flexible and will probably do the trick! LOL.

36mm o-ring around the end of the motor can (by where the wires exit).
Don’t worry, I’m not going to ask how you know what the local sex shop carries

 

[arrmamitch1]

I hear everything you're saying.

Here's a brain teaser-
Pick up your rig yourself and have someone help control the throttle.. Have him or her give it full power and then you shake your rig around as violently as you can -WITHOUT hitting/slamming your rig into anything to allow the wheels, arms, chassis to have a chance to absorb any blunt impacts...
The forces you assert based on -just the mass of the motor itself- will torque it off alignment against the motor plate.

Nothing may happen or can be observed at that moment..
But when you do that a hundred to several thousand times... Something there will fatigue and get bent.

Now wouldn't it be wise to brace the motor from such forces ,if you can help it?

**********

Keep in mind
-I'm not saying you are wrong.

I'm just offering you another perspective of how different forces transfer to this particular component of our RCs.

It’s the first things i tell when the first time i weight the mass of the motor… just two screws to keep this in place?!? Someone will made a brace to keep this firmly in is position. This will bend the shaft of the motor itself or broke some bearings inside of or…etc.

 

[L3phturn]

36mm o-ring around the end of the motor can (by where the wires exit).
Don’t worry, I’m not going to ask how you know what the local sex shop carries

View attachment 208869

Yeah those are a lot cheaper than my other idea.