Motor mounts don’t accept 8mm shaft pinions?

[Dan B.]

I’m getting really, really frustrated with this crap. I have a TP 4070 with an 8mm shaft going into a build. Guess what? The motor plate bore is (again) too small to accept Saga 8mm Mod-1 pinions. Of which I have a very nice selection. The shoulder of the gear barely fits in the motor plate, and when you factor in the grub screws? Nope. They rub on the bore. And no, thanks for the suggestion, but the shaft on the TP isn’t long enough to flip the pinion. So now I’m going out to my shop in the unheated barn nestled in the quite picturesque yet frozen, arctic tundra to fire up my drill press and machine the bore out of YET ANOTHER ”big motor” motor mount. I’m getting sick of this. The “big motor” plates from all brands I’ve used to date (PPS, the Arrma “option” big motor plate for stock mounts, and now the Iron Man “big can” mount) do indeed accommodate the bolt spacing of the bigger motors but apparently in no way account for the fact that the bigger motors might actually have a bigger shaft. I’ve successfully deleted so many expletives in this post…
WTF.

 

[ColosTommy]

That sucks.

I'll be fitting my tp motors with a scorched roto lock later this year, be interesting to see if i have the same issue with that one as well.

 

[SrC]

Yeah that is a tough nut what you stated there.

 

[Tex Koder]

I’m getting really, really frustrated with this crap. I have a TP 4070 with an 8mm shaft going into a build. Guess what? The motor plate bore is (again) too small to accept Saga 8mm Mod-1 pinions. Of which I have a very nice selection. The shoulder of the gear barely fits in the motor plate, and when you factor in the grub screws? Nope. They rub on the bore. And no, thanks for the suggestion, but the shaft on the TP isn’t long enough to flip the pinion. So now I’m going out to my shop in the unheated barn nestled in the quite picturesque yet frozen, arctic tundra to fire up my drill press and machine the bore out of YET ANOTHER ”big motor” motor mount. I’m getting sick of this. The “big motor” plates from all brands I’ve used to date (PPS, the Arrma “option” big motor plate for stock mounts, and now the Iron Man “big can” mount) do indeed accommodate the bolt spacing of the bigger motors but apparently in no way account for the fact that the bigger motors might actually have a bigger shaft. I’ve successfully deleted so many expletives in this post…
WTF.

A Half azz job of creating a "bigger" version of a motor mount..
I'm guessing it was Not actually tested/validated for said motor(s).

How hard can it be to create a plate to accept the bigger motor correctly?

 

[Xjeepguy]

What’s really fun is when you spend the big bucks on parts from one of the big names in the business (that I won’t mention), *cough* M2C *cough* and they have to be machined a bit just to work with their own parts. Bought the extended axles and 24mm conversion for the Xmaxx and the hex conversion wouldn’t slide over the axle. Then the pins wouldn’t even remotely fit. A feller could send them back and exchange them, but having access to a lathe, it was much easier to just machine them.

 

[Dan B.]

That sucks.

I'll be fitting my tp motors with a scorched roto lock later this year, be interesting to see if i have the same issue with that one as well.

That’s the one mount I haven’t tried. I was considering one for my next up build but they’re 2mm+ thicker than the PPS, and my motor will already be butting up against the steering plate. I wish I would have ordered one for this build to see how it did. I’ll bet it would be fine. After spending $$$ with vendors in the hobby for years, I‘ve never purchased a single Scorched part that didn’t work, wasn’t perfectly engineered and machined, or had something about it that I wish was different. That dude knows how to properly manufacture a product for its intended use.

Yeah that is a tough nut what you stated there.

Steve, it is so freaking frustrating! I also just dealt with exactly the same issue in two 1/10 touring car builds when I went from a 3.175 shaft (or whatever that Imperial SAE nonsense is) to a 5mm shaft.

A Half azz job of creating a "bigger" version of a motor mount..
I'm guessing it was Not actually tested/validated for said motor(s).

How hard can it be to create a plate to accept the bigger motor correctly?

Right?!? One would think that in the upper end realm of upgrade parts that the manufacturers would take these very obvious details into consideration.

What’s really fun is when you spend the big bucks on parts from one of the big names in the business (that I won’t mention), *cough* M2C *cough* and they have to be machined a bit just to work with their own parts. Bought the extended axles and 24mm conversion for the Xmaxx and the hex conversion wouldn’t slide over the axle. Then the pins wouldn’t even remotely fit. A feller could send them back and exchange them, but having access to a lathe, it was much easier to just machine them.

I know. It ain’t just those guys, either. When you spend exponentially more money for a premium product in this already expensive hobby then you shouldn’t have to reverse engineer or “fix” what you’re buying. At least when it’s produced and marketed to a very mainstream application.

 

[Gordo]

I’m getting really, really frustrated with this crap. I have a TP 4070 with an 8mm shaft going into a build. Guess what? The motor plate bore is (again) too small to accept Saga 8mm Mod-1 pinions. Of which I have a very nice selection. The shoulder of the gear barely fits in the motor plate, and when you factor in the grub screws? Nope. They rub on the bore. And no, thanks for the suggestion, but the shaft on the TP isn’t long enough to flip the pinion. So now I’m going out to my shop in the unheated barn nestled in the quite picturesque yet frozen, arctic tundra to fire up my drill press and machine the bore out of YET ANOTHER ”big motor” motor mount. I’m getting sick of this. The “big motor” plates from all brands I’ve used to date (PPS, the Arrma “option” big motor plate for stock mounts, and now the Iron Man “big can” mount) do indeed accommodate the bolt spacing of the bigger motors but apparently in no way account for the fact that the bigger motors might actually have a bigger shaft. I’ve successfully deleted so many expletives in this post…
WTF.

I ran into the same problem, I don't know what spool your running but I bought the iron man spool and the gear slides wherever you need it to line up with the pinion. Before I drilled the stock shaft and moved the gear over to where I needed it.

 

[Dan B.]

I ran into the same problem, I don't know what spool your running but I bought the iron man spool and the gear slides wherever you need it to line up with the pinion. Before I drilled the stock shaft and moved the gear over to where I needed it.

Yeah, I’ve already hemorrhaged too much money at this build but in hindsight I wish I would have ordered the Scorched V2 Pinocchio spool. The factory spool does not allow re-spacing the pinion, as there is no flat machined into the shaft and the “grub screw” that secures the spur goes all the way through a hole in the shaft and back into the spur gear on the other side. That was my first thought as well, just move the spur back on the spool, but unfortunately that’s not possible with the stock spool.

 

[Garcbomber]

Grub screws can be shortened, and Bores can be opened... No need for 8mm shaft on anything less than 20 lbs IMO

 

[Dan B.]

Grub screws can be shortened, and Bores can be opened... No need for 8mm shaft on anything less than 20 lbs IMO

Yes, the bore will be opened. I’m using an 8mm shaft TP because I already owned it and its 2250kv lends itself perfectly to my 6s goals with this car.
I guess it would be possible to shorten a grub screw, but I would want to do it on the seat side and not the hex side. Not sure how I’d do that on a tiny little 5mm long screw with my numb sausage fingers and still be able to grind a little bevel back into the end.
My rant was about vendors selling “big motor” mounts that can’t accommodate the very common 8mm shaft that many big motors have. What about the Castle 1721 motor? It’s basically ubiquitous now for speed runners. I guess for most that means some surgery will be required to run them? That’s bullsh’t when you drop much more money for an “upgraded big motor” mount. Just machine the goddamned bore to 16.5mm to accommodate the very common applications associated with buying a big motor.

 

[Gordo]

Yes, the bore will be opened. I’m using an 8mm shaft TP because I already owned it and its 2250kv lends itself perfectly to my 6s goals with this car.
I guess it would be possible to shorten a grub screw, but I would want to do it on the seat side and not the hex side. Not sure how I’d do that on a tiny little 5mm long screw with my numb sausage fingers and still be able to grind a little bevel back into the end.
My rant was about vendors selling “big motor” mounts that can’t accommodate the very common 8mm shaft that many big motors have. What about the Castle 1721 motor? It’s basically ubiquitous now for speed runners. I guess for most that means some surgery will be required to run them? That’s bullsh’t when you drop much more money for an “upgraded big motor” mount. Just machine the goddamned bore to 16.5mm to accommodate the very common applications associated with buying a big motor.

Is this a v2 limitless build? Because I know I drilled my v2 spool to move the gear to line up with my pinion on a pps motor mount. I could send pic when I get home from work. But then again I'm old a could be loosing my marbles.

 

[Dan B.]

Is this a v2 limitless build? Because I know I drilled my v2 spool to move the gear to line up with my pinion on a pps motor mount. I could send pic when I get home from work. But then again I'm old a could be loosing my marbles.

It is a V2 Lim. I’m just going to hog out the motor plate, as it’s the easiest option to do, at least for me. If I was going to drill the shaft (with my own imprecise Harvey Homeowner HD drill press) I’d probably just buy a new spool for it.
You must have some nice equipment if you’re confident drilling a 4mm hole in an 8mm hardened steel shaft with any degree of accuracy. With the equipment I have on hand I would end up with a two-piece spool and a great deal of profanity!

 

[Gordo]

It is a V2 Lim. I’m just going to hog out the motor plate, as it’s the easiest option to do, at least for me. If I was going to drill the shaft (with my own imprecise Harvey Homeowner HD drill press) I’d probably just buy a new spool for it.
You must have some nice equipment if you’re confident drilling a 4mm hole in an 8mm hardened steel shaft with any degree of accuracy. With the equipment I have on hand I would end up with a two-piece spool and a great deal of profanity!

No I did it by hand. Take stock gear , slide it where you need to, use non pinned grub screw to hold it in place and drill it as far you can, move gear and drill the rest. BAM, back in business.

 

[SrC]

If I understand all this correctly, if only the TP motor had a longer rotor output Shaft, you could reverse the Pinion for clearance.

 

[Dan B.]

No I did it by hand. Take stock gear , slide it where you need to, use non pinned grub screw to hold it in place and drill it as far you can, move gear and drill the rest. BAM, back in business.

Solid problem solving. Good method. I typically overthink things…

If I understand all this correctly, if only the TP motor had a longer rotor output Shaft, you could reverse the Pinion for clearance.

Indeed, yet alas. The motors output shaft is not long enough.

 

[Gordo]

Solid problem solving. Good method. I typically overthink things…

Indeed, yet alas. The motors output shaft is not long enough.

If they made the motor shaft 5mm longer you could flip the pinion and it would work. I'd rather have it to long and then you can cut off the extra. I think these companies love to somehow F the customer, but when you work on are toys you always have to MacGyer something no matter how much you paid for it.

 

[Tex Koder]

... I think these companies love to somehow F the customer, but when you work on are toys you always have to MacGyer something no matter how much you paid for it.

I think you meant..

 

[Gordo]

No I did it by hand. Take stock gear , slide it where you need to, use non pinned grub screw to hold it in place and drill it as far you can, move gear and drill the rest. BAM, back in business.

Here's the stock v2 spool drilled to move gear.

 

[Dan B.]

Here's the stock v2 spool drilled to move gear.

View attachment 344913

View attachment 344914

Nice work!

 

[joshjosh]

Tried the new M2C motor mount. I can confirm you still have to flip the pinion. For the moment I’m just running a spool.