Kraton Kraton 6s V5 + upgrade journey

[razorrc]

Thanks very much, @razorrc. I had thought for a moment with his 3 posts he was possibly a troll. Phew. Dude got me.

I think (hope) maybe he meant you have the electronics out of the latest Kraton EXB v2.

 

[SrC]

First little add-on while I wait on the battery which got held up at customs. A surpass hobby twin fan and heatsink combo. Not sure how good these are but they seemed to be reviewed ok. Supposedly 27k RPM. Easy install, just remove roll bar on top and snap onto motor. Just tied the leads off for now.

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I'm pretty intimated by the thought of checking my center diff next. I've watched numerous videos on it though. Just gotta study the explodes and jump in I guess.

Very First upgrade well worth the initial investment right out the gate would be going to Alloy Front and Rear chassi braces if you don't anything else . To better strengthen that V5 stocker chassis. The Plastic stocker braces will be only one great liability to that V5 chassis. You will be fine enough to drive her well in the beginning this way with alloy braces There are many choices. EXB ones, M2C, HR brand, or even generic cheaper ones out there. Your wallet can only decide.
Enjoy. Nice pick for an Arrma.

BTW, Arrma has integrated the V2 ESC ( Grey ESCs') in all of the 6s line as of latest productions. A rolling unpublished revision with most of the 6s line Arrma's. The V1 ESC's are done. Bye bye.
With the V2 Firma 150 ESC's I suggest dropping the ESC's Motor timing down to Zero. Your motor will thank you. Default is like 22.5 Degrees of advanced motor timing. NG. Motor will run hotter.

 

[BruceRC]

I think (hope) maybe he meant you have the electronics out of the latest Kraton EXB v2.

Yeah, apologies for the troll comment if that is the case. So, the original Kraton 6S line had a V2 eventually hitting V5 but this isn't the V2 being referred to, rather the new V2 of the EXB line for the ESC? Sorry if I sound confused, I likely am lol.

 

[BruceRC]

Very First upgrade well worth the initial investment right out the gate would be going to Alloy Front and Rear chassi braces if you don't anything else . To better strengthen that V5 stocker chassis. The Plastic stocker braces will be only one great liability to that V5 chassis. You will be fine enough to drive her well in the beginning this way with alloy braces There are many choices. EXB ones, M2C, HR brand, or even generic cheaper ones out there. Your wallet can only decide.
Enjoy. Nice pick for an Arrma.

Curious if this might be a good pack for upgrades:

https://jennysrc.com/products/arrma...ing-mount-ara8708?_pos=5&_sid=7e69f6a72&_ss=r

Will these EXB parts fit the V5 for the most part? Might not need them all but the basher bumper and braces seem like a good idea.

Or maybe just start with these two:

https://m2cracing.net/shop/shop.php...T-CENTER-BRACE/p/478044795/category=136127923
https://m2cracing.net/shop/shop.php...R-CENTER-BRACE/p/478001491/category=136127923

Thanks again for all the support guys.

 

[BruceRC]

Just going to keep updating this thread as I add upgrades/parts to my Kraton. Hope that is cool.

RPM front bumper and skid plate installed on rear.

Super Basher Front bumper and skid plate.

More upgrades coming this weekend.

 

[BruceRC]

 

[BruceRC]

Started with the rear brace. I am currently using the stock V5 screw which comes up through bottom of the chassis. I believe it's an M4x12mm. The EXB brace, unlike the stock V5, is threaded all the way through. It almost seems like I should use a nut on top with a longer screw, although that would likely interfere with the drive cup. I am thinking I should be using an M4x16mm here maybe?

 

[joshludden]

Started with the rear brace. I am currently using the stock V5 screw which comes up through bottom of the chassis. I believe it's an M3x12mm. The EXB brace, unlike the stock V5, is threaded all the way through. It almost seems like I should use a nut on top with a longer screw, although that would likely interfere with the drive cup. I am thinking I should be using an M3x16mm here maybe?

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That's what I do for mine.

 

[trexdd]

Looking good so far NS!

These new 6S rigs are EXB compatible (as you have seemingly figured out) and a lot of the parts fit easily. If you’re ordering EXB or Arrma parts in general, I suggest Amazon as they have consistently been the cheapest for me.

If looking for M2C stuff here in Canada, shop at Eliminator RC (Winnipeg but quite fast shipping) as they carry M2C in stock and free shipping over $100 CAD. Zone Hobbies in Quebec are another good source for some aftermarket parts.

And if you ever make it down to the south shore, let’s rip some beaches!

Edit: you also have a 25T spline on your servo as standard because of the V2 electronics.

 

[blaster27]

Amazon Canada. Sold by Amazon though, not a marketplace seller. The ad had all the V5 electronics. I didn't even notice. I wonder if this whole rig is a V2 now? I dropped a support case on Arrma's site to see if there's anything I can do. Bummer.


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That thing looks awesome. Keep it going.

 

[BruceRC]

Looking good so far NS!

These new 6S rigs are EXB compatible (as you have seemingly figured out) and a lot of the parts fit easily. If you’re ordering EXB or Arrma parts in general, I suggest Amazon as they have consistently been the cheapest for me.

If looking for M2C stuff here in Canada, shop at Eliminator RC (Winnipeg but quite fast shipping) as they carry M2C in stock and free shipping over $100 CAD. Zone Hobbies in Quebec are another good source for some aftermarket parts.

And if you ever make it down to the south shore, let’s rip some beaches!

Edit: you also have a 25T spline on your servo as standard because of the V2 electronics.

Thanks man. South shore sounds awesome.

It was actually an M4x20mm screw I needed from the bottom of the chassis into the brace. I've read about people shearing these, so I guess I'll hold onto the original brace for a backup in that case. If it does break I'll order an M2C for the next one.

So for the front brace. Any recommendations on flipping the top plate or drilling out a bigger hole in its current position? Is flipping the top plate a big process? Thanks again all.

 

[Xjeepguy]

Thanks man. South shore sounds awesome.

It was actually an M4x20mm screw I needed from the bottom of the chassis into the brace. I've read about people shearing these, so I guess I'll hold onto the original brace for a backup in that case. If it does break I'll order an M2C for the next one.
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So for the front brace. Any recommendations on flipping the top plate or drilling out a bigger hole in its current position? Is flipping the top plate a big process? Thanks again all.

Flipping the plate looks a lot more complicated than it really is. Just take note of where everything came out as you disassemble, and you’ll be fine.

 

[BruceRC]

Edit: you also have a 25T spline on your servo as standard because of the V2 electronics.

I was thinking I may need to replace the stock servo because of what I've read regarding them. Could I possibly be good now with these V2 upgrades?

 

[trexdd]

I was thinking I may need to replace the stock servo because of what I've read regarding them. Could I possibly be good now with these V2 upgrades?

I will run the stock servo until it dies. BUT I do have an extra hard spring for the servo saver and an adjustable servo saver tube on order. The servo saver that is installed is to weak and with the weight on the wheels, doesn’t turn them so well.

ARRMA Servo Saver Spring 12x20mm X-Hard, ARA340178 https://a.co/d/fYH8K3N

ARRMA AR340065 Servo Saver Hub Aluminum https://a.co/d/h8FW0ya

I ordered the Arrma one because a) it was the cheapest and b) I will lock the adjustable ring with a secondary ring and c) it was the quickest to arrive.

 

[SrC]

Thanks man. South shore sounds awesome.

It was actually an M4x20mm screw I needed from the bottom of the chassis into the brace. I've read about people shearing these, so I guess I'll hold onto the original brace for a backup in that case. If it does break I'll order an M2C for the next one.
View attachment 344978
So for the front brace. Any recommendations on flipping the top plate or drilling out a bigger hole in its current position? Is flipping the top plate a big process? Thanks again all.

Make sure to use Blue Threadlocker on all metal fasteners to metal parts. Maybe you have, IDK.
Your whole setup looks great so far.

 

[BruceRC]

Make sure to use Blue Threadlocker on all metal fasteners to metal parts.

Thanks @SrC. I didn't have any 243 but I did have some 242 and used that on the rear brace bottom chassis screw. Will also use some on the front brace.

 

[SrC]

242 or 243 , you're good.
I guess you read I am a fan of 243. Being oil and dirt resistant, but anything Blue is fine. Pretty much same strength.

 

[BruceRC]

Another little upgrade, Outcast tall side guards (AR320352).

I didn't dremel the rear ends like others have done. Not sure if this will cause issues or not. It seems pretty good.

For anyone else doing this, make sure to loosen the 3 screws circled in blue when trying to pull the original guard off. This helps.

Still waiting on my battery to be delivered. That's a nightmare story I'll save for another day.

 

[Glitch]

Another little upgrade, Outcast tall side guards (AR320352).
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I didn't dremel the rear ends like others have done. Not sure if this will cause issues or not. It seems pretty good.

For anyone else doing this, make sure to loosen the 3 screws circled in blue when trying to pull the original guard off. This helps.
View attachment 347211
Still waiting on my battery to be delivered. That's a nightmare story I'll save for another day.

Side guards looking good, and afaik they do make a difference

 

[BruceRC]

Since my last update here, I've added a couple upgrades.

The first was the front brace. To install this EXB aluminum brace, I needed to flip the top plate so EXB compatible was visible. Gives you proper alignment for the 4mm hole.

Some Loctite and a 12.9 grade M4x20mm cap screw.

After I posted about installing the front brace someone mentioned replacing the brass bushings in the steering with bearings the next time I had it apart. So I felt pretty comfortable grabbing a set of these to install.

Back in I went. I felt much more comfortable with the job this time round.

I disconnected the two turnbuckles from the Ackerman and the servo horn. I think I'm starting to learn the names of these parts.

This side of the bell crank felt glued on.

I just needed to pry up on the bottom of it gently with a small flat head driver. Then it slid right out.

Installed the bottom bearings, put the bellcrank back on and installed the top bearings.

And put it all back together.

Really noticeable improvement in the steering with this upgrade. Not sure what's next but likely an Aluminum center diff cup. Thanks again for the community help here, you guys are the best.