My Spektrum DX5C mods

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suchtragedy

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Hey all,

Just wanted to make a post about some of the mods I've done to my Spektrum DX5c. I picked this up initially for a Limitless/Infraction build because I wanted to try the spektrum AVC and telemetry (mainly mph and pack voltage). After I got it I found out that the range is not great for speed running and it there wasn't a factory option for powering it with a 2s lipo like I thought. So I decided to see what I could do about both.

Despite there being nothing in the manual or anywhere else online confirming of the DX5c could handle more than 6 volts I found 1 video on youtube showing someone adding a 2s lipo so that's the first mod I did. Remove 2 screws and the battery tray comes out and you can snip the wires to solder on whatever power lead you want. I took it a step further and took apart the transmitter, desoldered the battery tray leads from the voltage regulator, and soldered in a JST plug that disconnects from an XT60 plug. The 2s lipos I have to use were originally for my fpv goggles and a tad too big so I had to trim some plastic in the battery tray but all said and done it now runs on a 3000mah 5c 2s lipo.
20200607_172714.jpg


When I had the DX5c apart I noticed that the radio module actually had a second unused IPX antenna connection. This would indicate that the radio was capable of diversity but again found nothing online to confirm that.
20200607_175213.jpg


To test I set up an esc, motor, servo, and spektrum receiver on the bench. Before changing anything I confirmed that the signal was good all the way across my house. I then disconnected the factory antenna completely and without any antennas connected the range was only about 5 feet then stopped. I then plugged the factory antenna into Antenna B and the signal reached all the way across my house again. This confirmed that Antenna B actually did something.

So I took a IPX to SMA antenna cable and drilled a hole next to the stock antenna and reassembled. I now have the ability to add a second antenna for better range which I will be testing later on. In addition I've ordered a 2MW booster that can be powered by 5v and conveniently the DX5c has a data port that can supply the 5 volts already on the side under a panel and is easily connected by a normal servo plug or JST plug.

Anyways I think it came out really clean and hopefully everything tests well. If so then this eliminates one of the biggest shortcomings of the spektrum compared to other radios in its class.
20200607_175125.jpg

20200607_175309.jpg
 
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Hey all,

Just wanted to make a post about some of the mods I've done to my Spektrum DX5c. I picked this up initially for a Limitless/Infraction build because I wanted to try the spektrum AVC and telemetry (mainly mph and pack voltage). After I got it I found out that the range is not great for speed running and it there wasn't a factory option for powering it with a 2s lipo like I thought. So I decided to see what I could do about both.

Despite there being nothing in the documentation in the manual or anywhere else online confirming of the DX5c could handle more than 6 volts I found 1 video on youtube showing someone adding a 2s lipo so that's the first mod I did. Remove 2 screws and the battery tray comes out and you can snip the wires to solder on whatever power lead you want. I took it a step further and took apart the transmitter, desoldered the battery tray leads from the voltage regulator, and soldered in a JST plug that disconnects from an XT60 plug. The 2s lipos I have to use were originally for my fpv goggles and a tad too big so I had to trim some plastic in the battery tray but all said and done it now runs on a 3000mah 5c 2s lipo.
View attachment 84796

When I had the DX5c apart I noticed that the radio module actually had a second unused IPX antenna connection. This would indicate that the radio was capable of diversity but again found nothing online to confirm that.
View attachment 84798

To test I set up an esc, motor, servo, and spektrum receiver on the bench. Before changing anything I confirmed that the signal was good all the way across my house. I then disconnected the factory antenna completely and without any antennas connected the range was only about 5 feet then stopped. I then plugged the factory antenna into Antenna B and the signal reached all the way across my house again. This confirmed that Antenna B actually did something.

So I took a IPX to SMA antenna cable and drilled a hole next to the stock antenna and reassembled. I now have the ability to add a second antenna for better range which I will be testing later on. In addition I've ordered a 2MW booster that can be powered by 5v and conveniently the DX5c has a data port that can supply the 5 volts already on the side under a panel and is easily connected by a normal servo plug or JST plug.

Anyways I think it came out really clean and hopefully everything tests well. If so then this eliminates one of the biggest shortcomings of the spektrum compared to other radios in its class.
View attachment 84802
View attachment 84803
There was a thread on here a few weeks back and someone said in that thread that the DX5C could not run on more than 6v, so this looks like it debunks that.
 
There was a thread on here a few weeks back and someone said in that thread that the DX5C could not run on more than 6v, so this looks like it debunks that.
Even the display shows the correct voltage
20200608_183843.jpg
 
The most I did to mine was add a charge jack so I didn't have to remove the AA's every week. lol!
2019-0621-DX5C-Front-ChargePortInstalled.jpg

I was thinking of cutting a hole and putting in a 2S port so I could put a 2S pack in there and charge it without removing it. Haven't found a good jack though that will screw down solidly.
 
So the eBay 5v 2mW booster showed up this week. It's a no name generic that only had shrink wrap and no case. It gets rather hot quickly so I made a 3D printed housing with ventilation and a quiet 30mm fan soldered directly to the power leads. Powering from the data port has worked out pretty well a s overall I'm pretty happy with how it all turned out. I still need to do comparative range tests with/without second antenna and second antenna+booster but overall I am confident it will be a substantial improvement.

20200625_201112.jpg
20200625_202018.jpg
20200625_201509.jpg
20200625_201454.jpg
20200625_201653.jpg
 
Stupid question how do you take it apart?
The radio? You remove the rubber grip from the handle gently with a small flat heat screwdriver to pry it up from bottom up and then remove the battery cover and unscrew the 4 screws holding in the AA battery tray. Then it's just 8 screws to remove holding two halves together. Once you split it apart the electronics are mounted on the side with the wheel and the other side has nothing so it just comes off easily. The tricky part is putting both sides back together again because the side without electronics has the "back" button that likes to fall out of place if you're not careful and there are plastic guides that you need to line up carefully that keep the screen and rear wheel/button assembly from moving. It's possible to put it back together and not get the rear wheel electronics inside the guide making the "back" button not work and to fall out inside the remote. But once it's back together and the back button clicks when pushed like normal it's just the reverse to put it back together.

Here's a video of a guy who takes his apart to install a different antenna but different than I did it.
 
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The radio? You remove the rubber grip from the handle gently with a small flat heat screwdriver to pry it up from bottom up and then remove the battery cover and unscrew the 4 screws holding in the AA battery tray. Then it's just 8 screws to remove holding two halves together. Once you split it apart the electronics are mounted on the side with the wheel and the other side has nothing so it just comes off easily. The tricky part is putting both sides back together again because the side without electronics has the "back" button that likes to fall out of place if you're not careful and there are plastic guides that you need to line up carefully that keep the screen and rear wheel/button assembly from moving. It's possible to put it back together and not get the rear wheel electronics inside the guide making the "back" button not work and to fall out inside the remote. But once it's back together and the back button clicks when pushed like normal it's just the reverse to put it back together.

Here's a video of a guy who takes his apart to install a different antenna but different than I did it.
Thanks I tried to get mine apart once and it wouldn't come apart by the screen.

On an unrelated note does anyone have a spare switch for their DX5C?
 
Thanks I tried to get mine apart once and it wouldn't come apart by the screen.

On an unrelated note does anyone have a spare switch for their DX5C?
The top screen plastic is just stuck on around the outer edge of it with some tacky rubber/tape like stuff (it's just a protector, the actual screen is under it in the case). I had to just peel up 1 side of it to finally split it apart after removing all screws.

Which switch? The power button?
 
The top screen plastic is just stuck on around the outer edge of it with some tacky rubber/tape like stuff (it's just a protector, the actual screen is under it in the case). I had to just peel up 1 side of it to finally split it apart after removing all screws.

Which switch? The power button?

Yeah the power button, I got sick of mine always getting stuck and broke it out of the transmitter. I can still turn it off and on I just need to use a screw driver to do it now.
 
Yeah, I got sick of mine always getting stuck and broke it out of the transmitter.
I'm 99% sure I could model and make a 3D printed replacement if you have no luck finding the button. I would just have to take mine apart again to remove the button so I could model it lol
 
I'm 99% sure I could model and make a 3D printed replacement if you have no luck finding the button. I would just have to take mine apart again to remove the button so I could model it lol
Lol I was ask in the 3d printer section if anyone could make one.
 
@slick2500 3D printed replacement successful. Took a few tires to dial it in but it works great. I'm going to try to print one in Orange to match the Spektrum color scheme and try out on my own radio.

PM me and we can figure out how to get a couple to you. Since they are so small I can just send them to you in a letter sized envelope for the cost of a stamp.

Side by side with OEM button:
20200627_175412.jpg


Update: Orange button came out well.
20200627_185926.jpg
 
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This is fantastic @suchtragedy, well done great mod, I really like how you integrated it all? the booster has it been working for you? Could it be used on the stock antenna? What connections does it have? I mean did you have to solder the f connectors on?

The battery mod is a great idea too, what is the main reason to do this though? More power or longer battery life, or just to be able to power the accessories?

I've been really trying hard to figure out all of the telemetry options on this radio and then try and produce a video for people so they don't have to go through what I have. Spektrum has no details about their modules and how to connect them or even what works.

I wrote to horizon and all I got back was you need a tm1500 module, but it fights the sr6100at so I'm using a srs6000 avc and tm1500 so far I've only got rpm, 1 temp sensor and voltage working, I'm looking to get the new sensors that will be released near the end of the year for rpm and gps. I just wish I could run dual temp sensors, one for the esc and one for the motor can. The new Firma SMART stuff is good, but i wanted to run a hw combo with these sensors. I connected the temp sensor port from the hw motor, but it read some ridiculous figure, it seems it is outputting a different signal voltage per degree.

Another question, if you choose not to have the extended antenna connected, does it harm anything if it's powered up to the f connector? So you can remove it for bashing or general driving and then install it for speed runs?

20200801_145622_1.gif
 
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This is fantastic @suchtragedy
the booster has it been working for you? Could it be used on the stock antenna? What connections does it have? I mean did you have to solder the f connectors on?
Booster works as intended but I haven't done an official range test because I sort of need a second person to be near the truck to help me because it gets too far away I have trouble seeing it.

As far as the pigtail cable it's known as an IPX (or IPEX) to SMA (male or female, they make both) connector. They are easily found on Amazon if you search, here's an example:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H3P9KDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.izpFbCRWY7NE

And no didn't need to solder anything, the ipx end snaps into the antenna port on the board and other SMA end just goes out to the removable antenna. Can't be used with stock antenna because stock is just an IPEX connector at one end and shielded wire with no other connector at the other and it just rests inside the small horn on the top of the radio.

The battery mod is a great idea too, what is the main reason to do this though? More power or longer battery life, or just to be able to power the accessories?
I dislike using AA batteries and I have a lot of these small 2s lipos so I figured why not make use of them. Bonus is more voltage and longer battery life.

I wrote to horizon and all I got back was you need a tm1500 module
That's interesting because I asked horizon too if telemetry could be set using a tm1500 and non smart esc and they said no and that I needed a smart esc. Seems you got it to work how I was originally planning to try using a Hex6 esc. I guess they aren't all on the same page when it comes to their product expertise.
Screenshot_20200819-135009_Gmail.jpg


Another question, if you choose not to have the extended antenna connected, does it harm anything if it's powered up to the f connector? So you can remove it for bashing or general driving and then install it for speed runs?
I remove it all the time and only use it when I attempt a speed run, so doesn't seem to damage it and I still get normal radio range.
 
Just a heads up, I believe the IPX connector also goes by the name U.FL as well. At least that’s what the one I needed for the 3PV was called.
Yeah I see now that they to go by a couple different names. I always have seen it referred by IPX as the common name in the race drone arena, it's a common connector found on drone receiver antennas there.
 
Booster works as intended but I haven't done an official range test because I sort of need a second person to be near the truck to help me because it gets too far away I have trouble seeing it.

As far as the pigtail cable it's known as an IPX (or IPEX) to SMA (male or female, they make both) connector. They are easily found on Amazon if you search, here's an example:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H3P9KDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.izpFbCRWY7NE

And no didn't need to solder anything, the ipx end snaps into the antenna port on the board and other SMA end just goes out to the removable antenna. Can't be used with stock antenna because stock is just an IPEX connector at one end and shielded wire with no other connector at the other and it just rests inside the small horn on the top of the radio.


I dislike using AA batteries and I have a lot of these small 2s lipos so I figured why not make use of them. Bonus is more voltage and longer battery life.


That's interesting because I asked horizon too if telemetry could be set using a tm1500 and non smart esc and they said no and that I needed a smart esc. Seems you got it to work how I was originally planning to try using a Hex6 esc. I guess they aren't all on the same page when it comes to their product expertise.
View attachment 95291


I remove it all the time and only use it when I attempt a speed run, so doesn't seem to damage it and I still get normal radio range.
Thank you for the great detailed reply, it is very helpful!

The lack of information and poor training of the tech support group is truly embarrassing.

I'll keep you posted on the results with the set-up I run. The temp sensor is going really well and the volt meter is great, the rpm isn't a surface one, so I don't know if I'm getting the correct values, but it seems to work pretty well, it just doesn't hold the Max rpm figure for very long.
 
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