Kraton Play in HR Steering Servo Arm?

[hyperion]

Hi all -- going through my Kraton, I noticed that the linkage joints in the HR Steering Servo Arm have some radial play in them, specifically in the joints that are captured by the red aluminum connecting arm. I checked an identical part I had on hand and it had the same play, maybe about 0.5mm or so. This sounds small, but the steering system play adds up quite a bit once out at the wheels. I'm trying to remove any play I can, have you seen this issue as well? Is there a better 25T servo arm that is more solid?

Here's the part: https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=AON48SH25;c=1533

-hyp

 

[SrC]

I passed on that particular HR part years past.
It is not all that, according to some others. What you are observing and all. Nothing new. There is slop all over these Arma rigs anyway. I hope you didn't think this would solve ALL the Steering slop. Because it wouldn't, even if it was well made, which it is not. It probably adds even more slop as you describe. Went backwards.
I just deal with the slop. These are just basher rigs.
This HR part is Just $Bling$. No better and possibly worse than the stocker. Don't expect much. HR can be far from the best in many cases. Poor QC in many cases. All show, with no performance advantage. Is what it is. I would return it if it were me. Unless the Bling matters to you. Spend the coin on something else, more important with better quality for the $$$.

 

[Diem Turner]

It's also not uncommon for the spline itself that you stick the servo horn onto to have a miniscule amount of play (I believe lash in the gears would be a more accurate description) of maybe 0.1-0.2mm at most but it feels like a lot more by the time it has propagated all the way out to the wheels.

 

[Tex Koder]

Hi all -- going through my Kraton, I noticed that the linkage joints in the HR Steering Servo Arm have some radial play in them, specifically in the joints that are captured by the red aluminum connecting arm. I checked an identical part I had on hand and it had the same play, maybe about 0.5mm or so. This sounds small, but the steering system play adds up quite a bit once out at the wheels. I'm trying to remove any play I can, have you seen this issue as well? Is there a better 25T servo arm that is more solid?

Here's the part: https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=AON48SH25;c=1533

View attachment 294622

-hyp

Look , seriously.
Sloppy slop is part of Life..

We're not racing vehicles made for Formula1 ,so trying to make your rigs so precise is futile.

 

[Diem Turner]

Look , seriously.
Sloppy slop is part of Life..

We're not racing vehicles made for Formula1 ,so trying to make your rigs so precise is futile.

It's still not going to stop me from giving it the old college try.

 

[SrC]

It's also not uncommon for the spline itself that you stick the servo horn onto to have a miniscule amount of play (I believe lash in the gears would be a more accurate description) of maybe 0.1-0.2mm at most but it feels like a lot more by the time it has propagated all the way out to the wheels.

+1
The stocker servo arm alone has more quality. Slop at the stocker Links/balls can be tightened up with some Telfon tape, if it's important enough. The rest of the steering also has much more slop. Teflon tape can be used at all the ST ball links.

 

[Diem Turner]

+1
The stocker servo arm alone has more quality. Slop at the stocker Links/balls can be tightened up with some Telfon tape, if it's important enough. The rest of the steering also has much more slop. Teflon tape can be used at all the ST ball links.

I've replaced most of the steering components in my Infraction with a mix of GPM and Scorched parts which made quite a bit of difference. As for the balls in the links, CA glue (when applied carefully and judiciously) can work well to remove slop in the ball ends too.

 

[slick2500]

I find any time you have a steel ball that is pressed into an aluminum part they are never a good fit, this is why I always tell people to avoid the Amazon/eBay cheapo turnbuckles with aluminum rod ends as they are never made right. You will almost always have a better fit with the steel balls in plastic.

 

[SrC]

It's also not uncommon for the spline itself that you stick the servo horn onto to have a miniscule amount of play (I believe lash in the gears would be a more accurate description) of maybe 0.1-0.2mm at most but it feels like a lot more by the time it has propagated all the way out to the wheels.

A poorly fitting horn spline can mimic a sloppy servo gear train. Servos have some backlash as they get worn in. Still fine to use unless you want to swap out for a new gearset. Ill fitting arms/horns happen too, and should be replaced. (Poorly machined splines) A worn output shaft BB on the servo can also cause slop. Because the output shaft rocks.
Look very closely, to see where the slop/backlash is. (Servo gears or the splines are sloppy)
It can be deceiving with just a quick glance.
Sometimes the screw has just loosened. I use a small dab of Blue TL on all my servo's horn screws.. Stripped out splines need to be replaced.

 

[hyperion]

I find any time you have a steel ball that is pressed into an aluminum part they are never a good fit, this is why I always tell people to avoid the Amazon/eBay cheapo turnbuckles with aluminum rod ends as they are never made right. You will almost always have a better fit with the steel balls in plastic.

Do you have a suggestion for a part that would replace the HR linkage? It's really just the ball that's pressed into the linkage...there is radial play on both ends. The 25T horn works just fine, as does the steering bellcrank setup. It's just the darn linkage. -hyp

 

[SrC]

Pop out the Balls and place some Cut up Teflon tape through the ends and reinstall the balls. HR uses O-Rngs to capture the balls. Kind of add if you ask me. A design that is not tight fitting. Trial and error should remove the play. Cut off any excess Teflon tape. Use tiny small strips through the Ends.
Metal balls in Plastic ends are best.
Not the first person that noticed this HR part issue.
Stay with the stocker horn and links. What I learned.
That HR bling "Link" doesn't sway me much. Use the stocker. Plastic is better.

 

[slick2500]

Do you have a suggestion for a part that would replace the HR linkage? It's really just the ball that's pressed into the linkage...there is radial play on both ends. The 25T horn works just fine, as does the steering bellcrank setup. It's just the darn linkage. -hyp

Run the stock plastic one is all I got. I don't remember if I have ever replaced mine.

Pop out the Balls and place some Cut up Teflon tape through the ends and reinstall the balls. HR uses O-Rngs to capture the balls. Kind of add if you ask me. A design that is not tight fitting. Trial and error should remove the play. Cut off any excess Teflon tape. Use tiny small strips through the Ends.
Metal balls in Plastic ends are best.
Not the first person that noticed this HR part issue.
Stay with the stocker horn and links. What I learned.
That HR bling "Link" doesn't sway me much. Use the stocker. Plastic is better.

Nah even the pressed in balls don't fit tight.

 

[SrC]

The balls are never tight. Like Arrma never intended it to be for some odd reason? All their 6s line has been this way for like 10 years. All 8 of my 6s Arrma's. I just use Telfon tape on the stockers. It really works if play really matters to you.. On some of my rigs I do this. My TLRT, Limitless and Infr. matters more to me.
But overall, for bashing, play is not much of an issue in the big scope of things. These are not Precision Race rigs. To buy an upgrade, trying HR Arm/Link, to remove the play is fruitless. Slop is still there. A fail that costs $$. Does nothing but add some bling. Not quite sure why HR did that. Poor QC I guess. And they don't care. Metal balls retained with O-rings into an Alloy end is never press fit well. Even if it fit better, would still wear out fast.