POWERHOBBY ARMOR X LARGE SCALE BELTED PRE-MOUNTED MONSTER TRUCK TIRES

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+1
Heavier wheels really do a number on the drivetrain.
And on average, Belted tires are always heaver than non-Belted.
And since the 8s rigs are 30+ pounds, already too heavy IMHO, I would look to lightest parts and wheels.
Just me.
I don't own an 8s rig.
But with any of my 6s rigs, I am careful about adding weight in general. Back early in RC days, light weight was always very important.
These days no one cares.... slamming their rigs with weight, until they have issues.
If Arrma did their homework better, the 8s line would have been much lighter. Less 8s nuisance breakages.
 
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im comfused

stock kraton 8s exb Copperhead 2 wheels weight 685grams each ? ??
duratrax weight weight about 750g ?

if i remember right Proline weight about 950g each ?

I don't want wheels that weight more than 750g
I don't remember how much the stock exb tires weigh but I know proline masher xp weighs less. There is a thread around here somewhere that has the weight of all those tires.
 
I don't remember how much the stock exb tires weigh but I know proline masher xp weighs less. There is a thread around here somewhere that has the weight of all those tires.
Backsflips vs masher x

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+1
Heavier wheels really do a number on the drivetrain.
And on average, Belted tires are always heaver than non-Belted.
And since the 8s rigs are 30+ pounds, already too heavy IMHO, I would look to lightest parts and wheels.
Just me.
I don't own an 8s rig.
But with any of my 6s rigs, I am careful about adding weight in general. Back early in RC days, light weight was always very important.
These days no one cares.... slamming their rigs with weight, until they have issues.
If Arrma did their homework better, the 8s line would have been much lighter. Less 8s nuisance breakages.
Agreed...but unfortunately the weight of the 8s line is for the most part as light as they can make it at the price point. Really, most of the metal parts i.e. shocks, diffs, outdrives, hinge pins, chassis, bolts, bearings and bracing are it. The rest is plastic of some sort. So reducing weight would mean having to completly redesign the line. Like do a twin plate chassis like the Cen Reeper. Other then that, it's just lightening with more expensive parts and adding weight for robustness.
 
im comfused

stock kraton 8s exb Copperhead 2 wheels weight 685grams each ? ??
duratrax weight weight about 750g ?

if i remember right Proline weight about 950g each ?

I don't want wheels that weight more than 750g
If I'm not mistaken the copperhead 2 big blocks on the exb were 750g or 1.65lbs each. There's no weights in the listings anymore.
im comfused

stock kraton 8s exb Copperhead 2 wheels weight 685grams each ? ??
duratrax weight weight about 750g ?

if i remember right Proline weight about 950g each ?

I don't want wheels that weight more than 750g
The prolines at that weight are the Trencher 4.3, those are heavy and also fun bash tires, and no dealing with glue issues.
I don't remember how much the stock exb tires weigh but I know proline masher xp weighs less. There is a thread around here somewhere that has the weight of all those tires.
Yeah if I remember right, the mashers are around 50 grams lighter than the cprhd 2 big blocks. I run them on light gravel/dirt street. Forget it in grass they're okay but they over spin too easily and heats things up imo.
 
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We’ll here they are. 714 grams without the hole being drilled out so I would say comparable to the proline mx57 line up. To be honest I’m not to satisfied with the glueing job so I will extra glue them before taking it out. Overall looks are awesome.
 
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We’ll here they are. 714 grams without the hole being drilled out so I would say comparable to the proline mx57 line up. To be honest I’m not to satisfied with the glueing job so I will extra glue them before taking it out. Overall looks are awesome.
Man those are beefy, the powerhobby pictures don't do it justice. They are alot meatier than I thought they were. Also surprised there's not any videos on them yet either.
 
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New from Powerhobby are some very gnarly Armor X Large Scale Belted Pre-Mounted Monster Truck Tires. These bad boys are sized to fit trucks like the Traxxas X-Maxx and ARRMA Kraton 8S and come pre-glued for your bashing enjoyment. Check out these highlights-

* Belted to eliminate tire ballooning
* Micro Fiber-Tech (MFT) belt design
* 24mm wheel hex
* More grip, longer tire life, with added reliability
* Includes 2 pre-mounted tires
* Diameter – 8.0″
* Weight – 1.5lbs per wheel/tire
* Available with chrome or black wheels

The Powerhobby Armor X Large Scale Belted Pre-Mounted Monster Truck Tires are street priced at $74 and have a part number of #PHT3279.


https://www.bigsquidrc.com/powerhobby-armor-x-large-scale-belted-pre-mounted-monster-truck-tires/
Hopefully they are better than the Powerhobby XL belted tires that I bought for my K8S. Those tires would come unglued regularly and one of them ripped. My favorite big tires so far are the Proline 4.3 trenchers. I've put them through hell (construction site with rocks and nasty terrain) and they are still going strong.
how much does stock Kraton EXB 8S 24mm wheels weight ?

And how much does Duratrax sixpack 8s 24mm wheels weight ?
The six packs are OK, but they do become unglued regularly. And the rims crack easily with time, or of you hit something hard. I'm not sure if I would buy them again TBH
 
Agreed...but unfortunately the weight of the 8s line is for the most part as light as they can make it at the price point. Really, most of the metal parts i.e. shocks, diffs, outdrives, hinge pins, chassis, bolts, bearings and bracing are it. The rest is plastic of some sort. So reducing weight would mean having to completly redesign the line. Like do a twin plate chassis like the Cen Reeper. Other then that, it's just lightening with more expensive parts and adding weight for robustness.
I wasn't necessarily saying the parts should be lighter using Ti/CF and other exotic lightweight parts. That is Impractical IMHO.
The design is what it is.
But of you look at this rig closely, I aways felt if was heavy in areas where it shouldn't have been. Over engineered in some areas, Creating needless Weight.... and Under engineered in areas that always break. i.e chassis bracing seems over engineered. Yet the driveshafts and Arms are too delicate for weight and loads.
 
I wasn't necessarily saying the parts should be lighter using Ti/CF and other exotic lightweight parts. That is Impractical IMHO.
The design is what it is.
But of you look at this rig closely, I aways felt if was heavy in areas where it shouldn't have been. Over engineered in some areas, Creating needless Weight.... and Under engineered in areas that always break. i.e chassis bracing seems over engineered. Yet the driveshafts and Arms are too delicate for weight and loads.
For sure the one thing they can do is re engineer the control arms, use beefier diffs and outdrives...that would be a big deal...and relatively inexpensive to do.
 
^^^But this will keep Arrma from making $$$ selling replacement 8s arms. They need to break so they can make $$.
Arrma could then go out of business. And we wouldn't want that.:ROFLMAO:
We need the 8s rig guys to keep buying arms, driveshafts etc. Or us 6s rig guys will be stuck with obsolete 6s rigs when Arrma/HH goes under.:LOL:
 
^^^But this will keep Arrma from making $$$ selling replacement 8s arms.
Arrma could then go out of business. And we wouldn't want that.:ROFLMAO:
We need the 8s rig guys to keep buying arms, driveshafts etc. Or us 6s rig guys will be stuck with obsolete 6s rigs when Arrma/HH goes under.:LOL:
Haha...well, that is true, but one can only have hope...if they just beefed the diffs and outdrives to 5t levels I'd take that. I can swap arms all day!
 
Replacing arms all day long, everyday gets silly. Don't you think?
Better off driving her like an old lady. I think she is one by now. Arrma/HH doesn't care about their arms and the other weak points. Or it seems that way to me at least.:rolleyes: Hope is non existent. Or I would have purchesed an OC 8s myself. I always eye that rig. I just know that it is far from durable as my 6s rigs. I would be so disappointed.
I hate being a slave to the most simplest of parts that should rarely if ever break in the first place.
You need to easily drop in another $1-2K to make the 8s line even remotely durable as a 6s rig. If you plan on driving it like a 6s rig to begin with.
1/5 scale rig parts are double the price and half as durable as 6s rigs. Just me.:cool:
I am sure they are fun to drive at that scale, no doubt. My wallet would scream at me though.:giggle:
8S line needs to be lighter. Does someone make a CF option Chassis for the 8s line?? I am sure it would be quite expensive no doubt. But that would be a good place to start.

I just feel The 8s line would be way better/durable, if it was only 8 pounds lighter.
I was always of the opinion that the larger the scale, the stronger it should be in the first place. Just Not the case here with 8s Arrma 1/5 rigs. Quite the opposite. Can't bash hard with it unless you have a steady list of the basic replacement parts always on hand.

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Replacing arms all day long, everyday gets silly. Don't you think?
Better off driving her like an old lady. I think she is one by now. Arrma/HH doesn't care about their arms and the other weak points. Or it seems that way to me at least.:rolleyes: Hope is non existent. Or I would have purchesed an OC 8s myself. I always eye that rig. I just now that it is far from durable as my 6s rigs.
I hate being a slave to the most simplest of parts that should rarely if ever break in the first place.
You need to easily drop in another $1-2K to make the 8s line even remotely durable as a 6s rig.
Just wait till the release the 8s V3 with updated arms, driveshafts and a Slipper clutch 🤣 🤣.
 
Replacing arms all day long, everyday gets silly. Don't you think?
Better off driving her like an old lady. I think she is one by now. Arrma/HH doesn't care about their arms and the other weak points. Or it seems that way to me at least.:rolleyes: Hope is non existent. Or I would have purchesed an OC 8s myself. I always eye that rig. I just now that it is far from durable as my 6s rigs.
I hate being a slave to the most simplest of parts that should rarely if ever break in the first place.
You need to easily drop in another $1-2K to make the 8s line even remotely durable as a 6s rig.
Well I didn't literally mean all day....I haven't broken an arm in awhile....then again I went full rpm. I think also it comes down to driving skills and choosing hits wisely. I know I've gotten less breakage with the more driving. I'm no pro, but trigger discipline is crucial to longevity imo.
 
Agree, with driver input and error. Practice makes perfect. That will always be the common denominator with most any RC platform.
Seems a perfect landing still gets the best of the drivetrain and the arms and shocks, no matter what. Many can $accept$ this I imagine?:rolleyes: And just call it what is, as an Arrma 1/5 rig.
 
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