Problems installing Castle 2028 in Limitless V2

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1983ejon

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Arrma RC's
  1. Infraction
  2. Limitless
  3. Senton 3s
  4. Typhon TLR
I recently purchased the Roto-lok Motormount as well as the Carbon Fiber Chassis for the Limitless V2 from Scorched. As I was assembling everything tonight, I was having a very hard time getting my Castle 2028 to fit with the Roto-Lok. The end of the motor is jammed up against the bell crank on the left side. The steering is very hard to move side to side and when it does it flexes the motor side to side. Am I doing something wrong with the install? I followed the instructions as best I could. I’ve included pictures so that you can see what I’m talking about. Thanks for any help you can provide!
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I recently purchased the Roto-lok Motormount as well as the Carbon Fiber Chassis for the Limitless V2 from Scorched. As I was assembling everything tonight, I was having a very hard time getting my Castle 2028 to fit with the Roto-Lok. The end of the motor is jammed up against the bell crank on the left side. The steering is very hard to move side to side and when it does it flexes the motor side to side. Am I doing something wrong with the install? I followed the instructions as best I could. I’ve included pictures so that you can see what I’m talking about. Thanks for any help you can provide!View attachment 308109View attachment 308110View attachment 308111
You could remove a battery tray and reverse the mount & the motor.
 
I recently purchased the Roto-lok Motormount as well as the Carbon Fiber Chassis for the Limitless V2 from Scorched. As I was assembling everything tonight, I was having a very hard time getting my Castle 2028 to fit with the Roto-Lok. The end of the motor is jammed up against the bell crank on the left side. The steering is very hard to move side to side and when it does it flexes the motor side to side. Am I doing something wrong with the install? I followed the instructions as best I could. I’ve included pictures so that you can see what I’m talking about. Thanks for any help you can provide!View attachment 308109View attachment 308110View attachment 308111

Test the stock mount to see if the issue is due to the thickness of the Scorched mount
 
Test the stock mount to see if the issue is due to the thickness of the Scorched mount
I bet it is, I actually just got done installing the castle 2028 1100kv into my limitless v2 the other day and it works perfectly fine with the PPS mount.

 
Very nice build u have there!!!

I’m sorry u have this problem but it seems we also have a solution…Now I’ll know not to go with a scorched mount for a similar build…
 
Second picture looks like your motor end cap isn’t snug?
 
Second picture looks like your motor end cap isn’t snug?
I just checked it, it's snug all the way around. I think that rubber piece by the connections is throwing off the picture, it's kinda bowing to make it look not uniform.
Very nice build u have there!!!

I’m sorry u have this problem but it seems we also have a solution…Now I’ll know not to go with a scorched mount for a similar build…
Thank you! I've emailed David at Scorched and he's asked for more pictures, he's been great with any problems I've had. Scorched makes great products so don't let this one thing turn you away. There may be a simple fix and I'm just not seeing it.
 
If you have a lathe/mill(remove shaft cap) the motor mounting surface could be skimmed for clearance, wonder if this is worse case of stack up tolerances within the chassis, motor mount, and motor.

Who needs turning on a speed car, just take some off the plastic standoff OD…
 
You could remove a battery tray and reverse the mount & the motor.
+1
The only way with that 2028. It's just too long. Maybe another type Motor mount could spare you like another 3mm of belcrank clearance...? IDK.
Motor should Never touch and interfere with the Belcrank. Obviously...
I know there is an upgrade brand Alloy Belcrank that is smaller/thinner and might gain you a few more mm. Not sure which one. Discussed elsewhere on AF threads. Others have done exactly this, for the same reason.
I also read somewhere, that some guys even carefully Dremel off some of the stocker Plastic Belcrank material to gain some Motor clearance.
How much motor clearance are you needing/looking for???
 
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+1
The only way with that 2028. It's just too long. Maybe another type Motor mount could spare you like another 3mm of belcrank clearance...? IDK.
Motor should Never touch and interfere with the Belcrank. Obviously...
I know there is an upgrade brand Alloy Belcrank that is smaller/thinner and might gain you a few more mm. Not sure which one. Discussed elsewhere on AF threads. Others have done exactly this, for the same reason.
I also read somewhere, that some guys even carefully Dremel off some of the stocker Plastic Belcrank material to gain some Motor clearance.
How much motor clearance are you needing/looking for???
@Moirae said he has the same setup using a PPS mount and it clears, although barely. When I was doing my SWB build I flipped the mount and had to choose the PPS mount as well because the Scorched mount placed the motor 3mm longer off the mount. It’s funny how massive the motors are that we’re shoehorning into these rigs!
 
Yea sometimes we just that 2 or 3mm more....
 
All I need is a couple mm. Forgot to add, when I installed the spool and Trident shafts, the front trident shaft did not need an O-ring. There was some play, but when I added the O-ring it started to bind up everything. The rear Trident was the opposite, there was a lot of slack so I had to add an O-ring. Everything is fine now. Not sure if that has anything to do with it.
 
Something like this might work if you only need another 1-2mm of clearance. It's not ideal since you lose the bearings, but it's an option. It was made by a forum member but I can't remember his name.

Let me know if you don't have access to a 3D printer (friend, library, etc.) and I'll send you one free of charge.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5616923
 
Just tried the stock motor mount and it's the same problem. I'm wondering if the holes that were pre drilled into the chassis for the motor mount are too close by about 2-4mm?
Something like this might work if you only need another 1-2mm of clearance. It's not ideal since you lose the bearings, but it's an option. It was made by a forum member but I can't remember his name.

Let me know if you don't have access to a 3D printer (friend, library, etc.) and I'll send you one free of charge.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5616923
Thank you for the offer, that's very generous! I will let you know once I've exhausted all other options.
 
I’m curious if you put it back together with the tower to tower brace if that would give you the space you need. It’s worth a shot. I know on my scorched chassis’s when I take the brace out the towers flex in just a bit.
I will try that in a bit. I currently have the Scorched tower brace on there, it's just up and out of the way. I've tried both (installed and off) with the Scorched brace, same thing both times. I have a PP brace that I can install instead, maybe that will flew it forward.
 
All I need is a couple mm. Forgot to add, when I installed the spool and Trident shafts, the front trident shaft did not need an O-ring. There was some play, but when I added the O-ring it started to bind up everything. The rear Trident was the opposite, there was a lot of slack so I had to add an O-ring. Everything is fine now. Not sure if that has anything to do with it.
The o ring only removes the slop between the drive shaft & the drive cup. As the motor mount is in a fixed position it will make no difference.
 
The o ring only removes the slop between the drive shaft & the drive cup. As the motor mount is in a fixed position it will make no difference.
Yes I know. I'm wondering if the motor mount holes were drilled ever so slightly forward than normal causing everything to be moved forward and the rear drive shaft to have a lot more play.
 
The Castle 2028 is 4.4 inches long. The Horizon limitless v2 page specs motors up to 4,33 inches max. You can change the mount (like I have changed my post )
 
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