Rlaarlo CT8A Radio Remote Control 8 Channels with Gyro Color Screen RC Transmitter & Receiver

[the-D-]

I got mine delivered yesterday, the receiver isn't waterproof and says avoid water. I got it primarily because I don't want multiple controllers, initially for my Vorteks and Team Associated Reflex 14 MT (for the gyro). Can this bind to anything without using its own receiver? Not had a chance to even power it up yet.

 

[Panther6834]

I got mine delivered yesterday, the receiver isn't waterproof and says avoid water. I got it primarily because I don't want multiple controllers, initially for my Vorteks and Team Associated Reflex 14 MT (for the gyro). Can this bind to anything without using its own receiver? Not had a chance to even power it up yet.

Also received mine yesterday. From 'ordered' to 'delivered', it took only 9 days.

Regarding the "not waterproof", that's standard with the great majority of receivers. Some receivers might indicate "water resistant", but not even that is actually 'waterproof'. Unless a receiver is clearly stated as being "waterproof", it's not 'waterproof'. At the same time, any receiver can be made waterproof through a few different methods, the easiest/quickest of which is conformal coating.

As for "not wanting multiple controllers", to a certain extent, that's a good thing...but, at the same time, there is no such thing as "one controller to rule them all" (please, no replied mentioning the RadioMaster MT12). The thing is, while many can agree it's not 'good' to have a dozen (or more) controllers, it CAN be 'good' to have a few controllers. One reason would be to have certain vehicle types in a particular controller. For example, all of my Mini-Z/1:28 scale vehicles are on my FlySky Noble NB4. Another reason would be so that you can have a friend/family member "borrow" one of your vehicles, so the two (or more) off your can RC together. Another reason might be to have a rescue boat on a radio that's different than the radio your other boats are on. I could continue with examples, but I'm sure you're understanding why having 2-4 radios is actually a 'good' idea. In my case (and, I'm certain, with other people), all above examples apply.

Getting to your last question, as with almost all Tx/Rx manufacturers, no. Can you binge a Futaba receiver to a Spektrum radio, or a Traxxas receiver to a Sanwa/Airtronics radio? Of course not...because each manufacturer utilize their own protocols, and those protocols are (almost always) proprietary to that manufacturer. Using 1:1 cars as an example, it's possible to take a key fob from a Toyota RAV4, and have a dealership reprogram it to work with a Toyota Supra...but, it couldn't be reprogrammed to work with a Honda Accord. Hopefully, my analogy makes sense.

 

[dgitalchaos]

I did a distance test with the Rlaarlo CT8A, and for having such short antennas on the receiver, it did really well.

 

[Panther6834]

I did a distance test with the Rlaarlo CT8A, and for having such short antennas on the receiver, it did really well.

My guess is, with the Radiolink, you probably have a defective unit...just not sure if it would be the radio and/or receiver. That radio is used by a LOT of speedrunners, and they get FAR more distance (much further than your CT-8A test). As for the CT-8A, good to see it getting a distance that's farther than what Rlaarlo stated.

 

[dgitalchaos]

My guess is, with the Radiolink, you probably have a defective unit...just not sure if it would be the radio and/or receiver. That radio is used by a LOT of speedrunners, and they get FAR more distance (much further than your CT-8A test). As for the CT-8A, good to see it getting a distance that's farther than what Rlaarlo stated.

I’m sure it was the radio, as I had tried four different receivers. It left a bad taste in my mouth after crashing my Felony 6S and damaging the body.

 

[Micron]

I did a distance test with the Rlaarlo CT8A, and for having such short antennas on the receiver, it did really well.

Nice, thanks for the post!

 

[Panther6834]

I’m sure it was the radio, as I had tried four different receivers. It left a bad taste in my mouth after crashing my Felony 6S and damaging the body.

Did you ever both contacting Radiolink customer support. I know you might not want to hear this...but, if not, then you have no one to blame but yourself. However, if you did, hopefully they are working with you to either resolve the problem, or to get the rest replaced/repaired under warranty. And, going back to, if you haven't contacted them, I'd highly recommend doing so...the sooner, the better, because I've the warranty expires, off your haven't contacted them by then, then you really have no one to blame but yourself. Even better, if the purchase was recent enough, then you should still be able to exchange/return with whatever business you purchased it from.

The point is, you should exhaust all possible options before giving up on it. Again, that radio is known to have extreme distance, and is used with many speed runners (quite a few without modification) around the world.

 

[dgitalchaos]

Nice, thanks for the post!

There are a couple things I don’t like about it, but otherwise it’s a good radio:
1. The trim has to be set via a menu
2.Failsafes have to be set on all used channels as there’s no way to disable a channel failsafe.

Did you ever both contacting Radiolink customer support. I know you might not want to hear this...but, if not, then you have no one to blame but yourself. However, if you did, hopefully they are working with you to either resolve the problem, or to get the rest replaced/repaired under warranty. And, going back to, if you haven't contacted them, I'd highly recommend doing so...the sooner, the better, because I've the warranty expires, off your haven't contacted them by then, then you really have no one to blame but yourself. Even better, if the purchase was recent enough, then you should still be able to exchange/return with whatever business you purchased it from.

The point is, you should exhaust all possible options before giving up on it. Again, that radio is known to have extreme distance, and is used with many speed runners (quite a few without modification) around the world.

I sent a couple emails here: [email protected]
[email protected]

Along with other options and after waiting 2 weeks without a response from RadioLink, I went ahead and just returned it. Zero customer support.

 

[Thewesnile]

I just got this radio as well but have not used it yet. I did have to add metal spacer for 18650 battery to work due to the hinged battery door contact is set in Way to far. Does anyone know if it's possible to setup the switchable 50/75/100 throttle option like the slt3 radio has?

 

[SrC]

On Sale now 40 instead of 80

https://www.rlaarlo-rc.com/rlaarlo-...rc-crawler-drifting-bash-buggy-cars-and-boats

Question: Do you think this transmitter and receiver can adjust the steering only gyro how much help you want in min 1 to max 100 like on AVC and TSM or is it just full assistance all time or off mode?

thanks

Edit: LOL it was 40 now its 60 back to 40

Most any Gyro will have an adjustable "Gain". And from my exper., you rarely even need much gain at all. Usually 10 -20%, is plenty.
I hope I understood your question right. Looks like a nice radio for the price.

The Rlaarlo CT8A is NOT made by Dumbo RC, and does NOT use the same protocol as the rebranded Dumbo RC radios that come with other Rlaarlo RCs. The CT8A is made by HotRC, uses HotRC's own protocol (which is NOT compatible with the receivers found in Rlaarlo RTRs), and is identical to HotRC's own CT-8A (notice, the only difference in model name is the 'dash'). From what I've been able to tell, the only difference in the firmware is the logo that shows ("Rlaarlo" or "HotRC") when the radio is turned on.

For those who haven't received theirs yet, be aware that the battery boxes were not soldered properly in a number of units, which is causing some units to fail to turn on when using AA batteries. It is easy enough to "fix", simply by cutting the wires where they enter the inside of the battery box, and re-solder them to the same connections from the outside of the battery box (you can find photos in the FC group). It is advisable to either use 2S Lipo, or 18650 Li-Ion, battery...however, regarding the use of an 18650 battery, check the manual (as I haven't received mine, yet) to see what the Amperage output should be, as 18650s are available with Amperage as low as 2.75A, and as high as 40A.

I wouldn't think amperage even matters. Any device. The device only draws what it needs. The only spec that matters is voltage compatibility. I run 18650 custom soldered packs in a few of my radios. Same holds true with Mains Lipo packs in our RC's.

Did you ever both contacting Radiolink customer support. I know you might not want to hear this...but, if not, then you have no one to blame but yourself. However, if you did, hopefully they are working with you to either resolve the problem, or to get the rest replaced/repaired under warranty. And, going back to, if you haven't contacted them, I'd highly recommend doing so...the sooner, the better, because I've the warranty expires, off your haven't contacted them by then, then you really have no one to blame but yourself. Even better, if the purchase was recent enough, then you should still be able to exchange/return with whatever business you purchased it from.

The point is, you should exhaust all possible options before giving up on it. Again, that radio is known to have extreme distance, and is used with many speed runners (quite a few without modification) around the world.

+1

TBH yea the RL is a long range king for its price point. So If I broke mine, I would simply buy another. Mine is flawless so far. Never lost signal with any of my Lim. passes. Before the RL, I had wrecks that cost me a bunch, due to lost signal. There is nothing worse than seeing it keep going, and out of control, while running towards it so it grabs the signal.

 

[Antsm]

I like mine so far, I've also gotten 4 hotrc RX's on Ali for cheap and they bind up no problem. I did have to put a blob of solder in the 18650 latch as all my 18650s are flat tops. Also the screen brightness seems to pull a lot of power so I have it set to low.

 

[Panther6834]

I like mine so far, I've also gotten 4 hotrc RX's on Ali for cheap and they bind up no problem. I did have to put a blob of solder in the 18650 latch as all my 18650s are flat tops. Also the screen brightness seems to pull a lot of power so I have it set to low.

Good to know about the screen (haven't removed mine from the box, yet)...but, at the same time, if using it outside, that could make the screen difficult to see.

 

[Antsm]

Good to know about the screen (haven't removed mine from the box, yet)...but, at the same time, if using it outside, that could make the screen difficult to see.

its actually easy to see even at a low brightness, i found it strange how much power it draws at a high/stock brightness the tx voltage goes up when you lower it.

 

[Sweddriver]

I like mine so far, I've also gotten 4 hotrc RX's on Ali for cheap and they bind up no problem. I did have to put a blob of solder in the 18650 latch as all my 18650s are flat tops. Also the screen brightness seems to pull a lot of power so I have it set to low.

Can you please give us a link to the receivers that work

Is the "AA" battery problem fixed with soldering the wires on the outside of the battery tray?
https://www.facebook.com/groups/rlaarlorcofficialgroup/permalink/915212226760379/?mibextid=oMANbw

 

[Antsm]

Can you please give us a link to the receivers that work

Is the "AA" battery problem fixed with soldering the wires on the outside of the battery tray?
https://www.facebook.com/groups/rlaarlorcofficialgroup/permalink/915212226760379/?mibextid=oMANbw

The 6 channel has battery telemetry and 4 channel does not.
I haven't had any issue with aa's, sounds like if you need to solder the tray it must be faulty with loose wires. There is abit of voltage sag so I wouldn't recommend cheap aa's. I have a good 18650 in there seems good so far. Best option is probably a 4x aa sized 2s pack.
Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out!
€8.77 41%OFF | 1/2/4PCS HOTRC DS-600 DS600 CH 2.4GHz FHSS Radio System 6CH Receiver for Transmitter Remote Controller PWM GFSK Model Boat
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwecenL

 

[Panther6834]

Ithe "AA" battery problem fixed with soldering the wires on the outside of the battery tray?
https://www.facebook.com/groups/rlaarlorcofficialgroup/permalink/915212226760379/?mibextid=oMANbw

Yes, that seems to be the best solution. The Rlaarlo radio is the same as the Hot RC 8Ch radio, and uses the same battery tray found in the Hot RC 6Ch radio. Long before Hot RC released this new 8Ch unit (and before Rlaarlo agreed to help them sell it), the same problem of the radio powering off when using AA batteries was happening. Best anyone has been able to determine, the factory does a poor job of soldering the wires to the metal on the inside portion of the battery tray. By cutting them off, and then soldering them to the outside, where there's more metal for the wires to be soldered to, it seems to not only create a better connection, but also seems to allow for a stronger flow of power into the radio. I don't know the technical details of why it works better, but it does seem to work better. However, most people prefer to use LiPo, instead of AA, as there are numerous advantages. LiPo is cheaper than constantly buying AA batteries. You can use the LiPo in other radios, as well as in small RCs. LiPo holds charge longer than rechargable AA. LiPo is cheaper than rechargeable AA. Honestly, LiPo is best for this radio. I was considering switching to 18650, as I like the idea of being able to charge it inside the radio, but several people have since reported that the USB-C port isn't charging the 18650 as it's supposed to. I have a feeling that the same type of problem causing the AA problem is also causing the 17650 charging problem. Seems to me, Hot RC has some serious manufacturing problems. But, for the low price, and how easy & cheap the fix is (a few cents worth of solder if you want to use AA, or just use LiPo which is cheaper than AA), I still think the radio is worth it.

 

[Sweddriver]

The 6 channel has battery telemetry and 4 channel does not.
I haven't had any issue with aa's, sounds like if you need to solder the tray it must be faulty with loose wires. There is abit of voltage sag so I wouldn't recommend cheap aa's. I have a good 18650 in there seems good so far. Best option is probably a 4x aa sized 2s pack.
Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out!
€8.77 41%OFF | 1/2/4PCS HOTRC DS-600 DS600 CH 2.4GHz FHSS Radio System 6CH Receiver for Transmitter Remote Controller PWM GFSK Model Boat
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwecenL

View attachment 345863

Thanks for the info on the receivers, the F-06A is the best choice then

Yes, that seems to be the best solution. The Rlaarlo radio is the same as the Hot RC 8Ch radio, and uses the same battery tray found in the Hot RC 6Ch radio. Long before Hot RC released this new 8Ch unit (and before Rlaarlo agreed to help them sell it), the same problem of the radio powering off when using AA batteries was happening. Best anyone has been able to determine, the factory does a poor job of soldering the wires to the metal on the inside portion of the battery tray. By cutting them off, and then soldering them to the outside, where there's more metal for the wires to be soldered to, it seems to not only create a better connection, but also seems to allow for a stronger flow of power into the radio. I don't know the technical details of why it works better, but it does seem to work better. However, most people prefer to use LiPo, instead of AA, as there are numerous advantages. LiPo is cheaper than constantly buying AA batteries. You can use the LiPo in other radios, as well as in small RCs. LiPo holds charge longer than rechargable AA. LiPo is cheaper than rechargeable AA. Honestly, LiPo is best for this radio. I was considering switching to 18650, as I like the idea of being able to charge it inside the radio, but several people have since reported that the USB-C port isn't charging the 18650 as it's supposed to. I have a feeling that the same type of problem causing the AA problem is also causing the 17650 charging problem. Seems to me, Hot RC has some serious manufacturing problems. But, for the low price, and how easy & cheap the fix is (a few cents worth of solder if you want to use AA, or just use LiPo which is cheaper than AA), I still think the radio is worth it.

Thanks for the info gonna try it with "AA" batts and resolder if it not works, but i think 18650 Li-ion is the safest kind of battery to use in radios because LiPo battery can be dangerous when being discharged to much and can become unstable.

Just ordered 6pcs Radios i have 10% discount code and free shipping so the price cant be lower than that.
You only pay 36$ for each radio with free shipping if you buy 2 or more, thats a great deal my friends

 

[Antsm]

For the price its great, my main complaint is dual rates and trim not being available on a button or dial, I think they could repurpose the channel buttons on top for that.
I will defo try resoldering the aa tray to see if it helps the voltage sag myself

 

[Sweddriver]

Sold out now, 50pcs in 1week, glad i got 6pcs

 

[Sweddriver]

Looks and feels great, took 1 week from China to Europe no vat or customs fees