Senton Senton 3s BLX cuts power even though its full.

[Luggas_H1]

(Sorry for typos) Hey everyone, I´ve been ahving this weird issue with my Senton 3s BLX. If I use my 2s battery (fully charged, 45C, 5000mah) and I reach maximum speed, it goes into this weird emergency mode and the ESC starts flahsing. I looked into the Manual and saw that it requires 5000mah and 35C which my battery has. I have tried a 3s which I borrowed form a friend (5000mah 35C) and it had a deans so I used and EC5 adapter. And it showed no prolems at all. The ESC also cuts power and tells me the batterys empty even though it has 30% left. Is it an issue with the battery (I have 3 of them all with the same issue) or something with the ESC/car?

 

[Pleusba]

I had this same issue and found it was a bad EC5 adapter. I swapped in a new adapter and it works fine now.

 

[Luggas_H1]

You may be right. I´ve now tried soldering an EC5 plug onto my 2s and no problems HOWEVER it was "warm" at 13°C. I looked at the adapter and saw brown-ish spots which I cleaned off and tried it again. The result was without problems. It was probly the temparature combined with the bad adapter so if anyone else hass this problem id recommend them to look at the adapter and wait until its warm.

 

[Luggas_H1]

Ok so basically my friend with his 3s typhon has the same problem. Even though he has a battery and esc with native ec5. He even tried a 11.4v battery which made it a little better, but its still not fixed. Im very confused how all these speedrunners can go full throttle for more than 3 seconds. Basically the only fix is to get a stronger battery and a smaller pinion/smaller tires.

 

[Yonic]

It's probably the battery, either it's old or it is not strong enough.

The weaker the battery, the more the voltage drops under power, so when you fully loaded it, the voltage drops so much that the ESC reaches LVC (low voltage cutoff).

Those cars use alot of power, and needs stronger batteries.

 

[Luggas_H1]

What your saying makes alot of sense, thank you. Me and my friend use gens bashing lipos with 5000mah and 50c and even the 4200 smc 11,4v LiHv wasnt strong enough, but better. Can you tell me what batteries and pinion you use and if you have a LVC or not?

 

[BrokeBoiRc]

I would just get a battery with the EC5 connector so you don't have to run an adapter.

 

[OleManTan]

I bought a male deans to female ec5 non wired adapter and it had a cold solder and didn't work. Took it to a different hobby shop and they resoldered it and it failed. Bought some online and they were fine but my friend melted the deans connector on a protek 4500mah 3s silicone graphene 120c. I was okay and still am but I will be replacing everything with AS150 connectors now. With a $20 5200mah 3s 50c I was able to get 5 mins doing speed runs in the cold but then I found that if you do a "factory" "reset" as described in the manual, followed by "throttle" "calibration" we got more run time about 10 mins. But that was still not enough and realized that the factory esc was coming on early. I now run the esc in nimh mode which has no lvc and I use a external lipo lvc alarm that actually fits perfectly in the rear. Those batteries are reading high ir so I can't wait to try my new 80c 5200mah 3s champion goldbat $28 and the ir read 1ohm1ohm4ohm when they showed up. Waiting for a diff input gear and I'll report back how they perform. BTW the 50c run fine at the track and you would never know the ir is so high unless you check on the charger.

 

[Luggas_H1]

I would just get a battery with the EC5 connector so you don't have to run an adapter.

im no longer running an adapter
@OleManTan ok, I will switch to nimh mode and do a calibration, i will soon report what happend. Also the Input gear is a huge weak spot, I already broke 4 on 4s lol.

 

[Yonic]

Make sure the slipper is set correctly, I ran alot on 4s (although 4s is for on-road mainly) and i never broke an input gear.

 

[Luggas_H1]

Make sure the slipper is set correctly, I ran alot on 4s (although 4s is for on-road mainly) and i never broke an input gear.

Yep, its all slipper. However on my 4s Kraton the Loctite on the Threads of the slipper kept melting, thus causing the slipper to come loose after every run. So I just have it on full tight.
Its pretty dumb putting a 4s system in a car where all the power has to be wasted into the slipper because otherwise it will break the gears.

 

[Yonic]

Not necessarily, the slipper should only absorb abnormal power spikes (like landing on power), it shouldnt effect normal acceleration.

But for this it should be set just right. maybe try the new v3 slipper screw (and input gear) so you wont need loctite and then you can experiment with the slipper setting until you find the right setting?

 

[Luggas_H1]

OK SO UPDATE I JUST TRIED IT AND IT WORKS!!!
My friend just did the throttle calibration and put the esc into nimh mode.
He was able to go throttle for AT LEAST 5+ Seconds before he ran out of road.
Keep in mind he has a 26t Pinion and the Car is insanely fast, no bloating or damage on the battery after I scanned it, however doing this multiple times is probably not the best thing for the battery, espacially considering that there is now no lvc.
I never understood "voltage drops" when I had my Senton so I never tried nimh mode.
Thats just insane, a 2 Year old mystery finally solved.
Edit: How do I mark this as solved or mark the Solution?
Edit 2: It was also 2°C outside, which makes the Voltage dips even worse.

 

[gopnikhardbass15]

Hi everyone!
So im the friend of @Luggas_H1 and yeah we tested it today. My typhon is almost stock, i just thrown in a 26t pinion, new shocks and rally tires on it. Also i've driven it with my bash- setup and even then i haven't got lvc.
I will be testing more of this out in a couple of days. I'll go to a looong road to see if i'll manage to get lvc. If it goes like plan, i will put some louise tires on it, take the wing off, lower the front by a little, stiffen up the rear a little bit and see how fast it will go!

 

[OleManTan]

I had to dig and search to find that info and then I brushed it off like nah that won't work till I tried it that's why spread the word. BTW you have no safety now so your lipo will blow up. I run it like this in nimh mode with no safety but I use a external lvc alarm. I'll post a pic of how nice it fits in the back. It's actually a perfect fit.

 

[TimePancake]

I've had this same issue with my stock typhon 3s since new. It has ic5 on the esc and ec5 50c Gens bashing battery. The connection is really solid and nothing gets hot. I always check the drive train for drag like bad bearings, tight diffs, tyres out of balance, all these things can affect the battery drain.

I ran it in the cold the other day couldn't get more than 20 seconds before it complained about lvc. Did everything, reset esc, calibrated throttle end points, 3 fully charged batteries.

But at the same time my friend ran her v3 typhon on the same spec battery for 30 minutes full blast.

So I've binned the blx100 for a Max 10sct. Will see if this fixes it

 

[DinoMark]

Optimum running temps for lipos is 86 to 104F. Anything under 72F is cold to a lipo and will trigger LVC sooner. Keep your packs in the house if you can or use a battery warmer.

 

[TimePancake]

Optimum running temps for lipos is 86 to 104F. Anything under 72F is cold to a lipo and will trigger LVC sooner. Keep your packs in the house if you can or use a battery warmer.

In that case I'll have to use the battery warmer even in the summer. It never gets that warm here yes I mean 86f

 

[Yas]

The BLX100 ESC has an annoying habit of hitting LVC early from voltage sag - or at least, the V2 versions and below do... I'm not sure of the V3s

The UK HH distributor I got in contact with said I could send them the ESC so they can firmware update the LVC settings. Apparently it changes the LVC from 3.7v per cell to 3.4v, and it's now less likely to cut off from voltage sag because it monitors the voltage under load for longer before triggering LVC. So I sent it off and now I'm waiting for it to come back time will tell if it's fixed this issue for me!

 

[TimePancake]

The BLX100 ESC has an annoying habit of hitting LVC early from voltage sag - or at least, the V2 versions and below do... I'm not sure of the V3s

The UK HH distributor I got in contact with said I could send them the ESC so they can firmware update the LVC settings. Apparently it changes the LVC from 3.7v per cell to 3.4v, and it's now less likely to cut off from voltage sag because it monitors the voltage under load for longer before triggering LVC. So I sent it off and now I'm waiting for it to come back time will tell if it's fixed this issue for me!

I look forward to hearing how you get on! I have the V2.
Tbh when I started having issues with mine, I sent it back to Model Sport where it was purchased, (never really looked into or knew about HH) they tried it with no issues. But they're not really responsible for that stuff.

As it happens my blx100 is toast after a few "inverted landings"