Senton chassis hitting the ground.....

[Ryno785]

Why does the suspension design allow the chassis to hit the ground prior to the shocks bottoming out? That is a big no no in the real world for obvious reasons.

Is anyone aware of an aftermarket Senton shock that is the correct length? I have a seen a few companies offering rubber bump stops to go on the shock shaft which I am sure would help but it sure seems like someone out there would have addressed this. It is not just Arrma as the Slash is setup the same way.

 

[SrC]

"Chassis Slap" is normal with our Toy RC basher cars. This actually prevents more damage than creating it. It is there by design. Otherwise the shocks would be bricked all the time, if 100% of the load/weight was sent to them only, and not to the chassis as it hits the ground. The chassis' are meant to get all scratched up as a result. Normal.
Many new to the hobby always question this.
With our scale cars no one is attempting that big RC air you are referring to. We are not sending/jumping our real cars 40 feet in the air. That would be deadly.

 

[Tex Koder]

Why does the suspension design allow the chassis to hit the ground prior to the shocks bottoming out? That is a big no no in the real world for obvious reasons.

Is anyone aware of an aftermarket Senton shock that is the correct length? I have a seen a few companies offering rubber bump stops to go on the shock shaft which I am sure would help but it sure seems like someone out there would have addressed this. It is not just Arrma as the Slash is setup the same way.

The OEM Plastic shock (bodies) would basically explode if you allowed it to take the full compression/force from the jumps that we tend to send these toys..
So the simple/"cheap" way to deal with this is to let the body take the impact force of the "slap" instead of the shocks themselves.

 

[Ryno785]

"Chassis Slap" is normal with Toy RC cars. This actually prevents more damage than creating it. It is there by design. Otherwise the shocks would be bricked all the time, if all the load was sent to them, and not to the chassis as it hits the ground. The chassis' are meant to get all scratched up as a result. Normal.
Many new to the hobby always question this.
With our scale cars no one is attempting that big RC air you are referring to. We are not sending/jumping our real cars 40 feet in the air. That would be deadly.

I was referencing off road race trucks with my real world comment.

As far as preventing damage, I assume the damage would be a-arms as they would be supporting the entire load at full compression instead of the bottom of the chassis?

 

[SrC]

Yeah, If you compare a scale Trophy Truck to a Senton or 1/7 Mojave, the scale truck is setup differently. Even still, suspension damage will occur.

 

[Ryno785]

The OEM Plastic shock (bodies) would basically explode if you allowed it to take the full compression/force from the jumps that we tend to send these toys..
So the simple/"cheap" way to deal with this is to let the body take the impact force of the "slap" instead of the shocks themselves.

That makes sense, but me being me, I want to fix it.

I did just put the Pro Line BFG K02s on it to help the "issue" because they are ~1/2" taller than most short course tires, but the chassis still hits the ground first. I guess even after learning the reason for it I am still surprised how early it is designed to hit.

Yeah, If you compare a scale Trophy Truck to a Senton or 1/7 Mojave, the scale truck is setup differently. Even still, suspension damage will occur.

I am really curious to see a UDR or Baja Rey in person.
I guess it is probably obvious but I am new to the RC world....

 

[SrC]

Don't overthink it too much. It is what it is. How it should be. Especially with Basher RTR models.
Not with RC Crawlers however, by comparison as one example. No chassis slap. RC Crawlers are designed identical like the scale ones. A Different RC platform.
Just roll with the RC chassis' intended design.
You are not the first to question this. And wont be the last.
Many other AF threads have discussed exactly this many times before.
Don't bother trying to address this. Nothing wrong with it.
If the Chassis scratches bother you, keep it on the shelf.
You will be chasing a Ghost if you keep trying to fix something that is not broken. You will only break more parts while you are at it.

 

[Ryno785]

Don't overthink it too much. It is what it is. How it should be. Especially with Basher RTR models.
Not with RC Crawlers however, by comparison as one example. No chassis slap. RC Crawlers are designed identical like the scale ones. A Different RC platform.
Just roll with the RC chassis' intended design.
You are not the first to question this. And wont be the last.
Many other AF threads have discussed exactly this many times before.
Don't bother trying to address this. Nothing wrong with it.
If the Chassis scratches bother you, keep it on the shelf.
You will be chasing a Ghost if you keep trying to fix something that is not broken. You will only break more parts while you are at it.

Appreciate the insight. Definitely not worried about scratches. More so just thinking that the suspension would work better if it wasn't constantly clacking off the bottom of the chassis. I will do my best to move on. haha
So, are the 1/8 scale race chassis' that the pros run setup the same way?

 

[SrC]

Yea the 1/8 race kits as well. They all chassis slap. If they don't, there is a setup problem.
The Senton sits rather low to the ground anyway, so if you run on ungroomed rough areas , the chassis will hit much more.
Maybe you are just itching for a 1/8 6s Kraton with tall MT tires.

 

[Bustedaw11]

It keeps the shocks from bottoming out on un-level landings also..
If you get rid of that extra travel and land un-level it won't be good. That load will go straight through your shock and into your shock tower. Broken/ bent towers, broken bulkheads..... you want the extra up travel, its your friend.

 

[Johnny b]

Chassis slap is good. To much chassis slap = chassis snap!

 

[Tex Koder]

Chassis slap is good. To much chassis slap = chassis snap!

View attachment 312890

How high a jump was That that caused the snap?
On the grassy field??

 

[Johnny b]

How high a jump was That that caused the snap?
On the grassy field??

Yes, on that grassy field. Only 10 to 12 ft high. I think it was how it hit. I since toned down the ramp twice. I will continue to jump.

 

[SrC]

The more height you go for, the better your Air Rotation control better be. Less room for error.
Know your limits......and the rigs also.
Driver skills develope as you break stuff, then repeat. At least 4x4 chassis are very inexpensive. Just time consuming to replace.
A 6s Typhon running 4s packs is probably more durable in regards.

 

[Ryno785]

Yea the 1/8 race kits as well. They all chassis slap. If they don't, there is a setup problem.
The Senton sits rather low to the ground anyway, so if you run on ungroomed rough areas , the chassis will hit much more.
Maybe you are just itching for a 1/8 6s Kraton with tall MT tires.

I am definitely itching for something bigger! haha The UDR has me very intrigued as the scale realistic aspect of this what I am most interested in.

The more height you go for, the better your Air Rotation control better be. Less room for error.
Know your limits......and the rigs also.
Driver skills develope as you break stuff, then repeat. At least 4x4 chassis are very inexpensive. Just time consuming to replace.
A 6s Typhon running 4s packs is probably more durable in regards.

I am not really into sending these things 10 plus feet in the air and bashing on them. I was going for trying to make the suspension work as good as possible in the chop and chatter. There are some square edges that have developed from wheel spin on our little track we put together and it really upsets the rear suspension in stock form. I really enjoy suspension tuning and am looking forward to playing with springs and different weight oils. I know that particular issue doesn't have anything to do with chassis slap but the slap was one of the first things I noticed when I got the truck and was intrigued by it.

 

[SrC]

The Mojave is a bit less $$$ and has plenty of realism. And most say it handles better with full Fr and Rr indepenant Suspension.
The UDR had a solid rear axle, the main difference. Chassis roll overs being a thing. It is a tad larger than a Mojo FWIW.
My Mojo is one of my favorite Arrma's. I don't send it. Have plenty of fun just tossing it around, over baseball mounds etc.

 

[Bustedaw11]

Yes, on that grassy field. Only 10 to 12 ft high. I think it was how it hit. I since toned down the ramp twice. I will continue to jump.

How was the landing??? Every single time I've sent my big rock flying i picture your tyohon upon landing. A little less now that I've done it a bunch but I was super scared I was gonna snap it the first dozen or so big jumps
I'm running those Mp9 shocks and they take the big sends so well. I don't believe it is chassis slapping very much as all, might be part of why I havnt broken one yet.

 

[Ryno785]

The Mojave is a bit less $$$ and has plenty of realism. And most say it handles better with full Fr and Rr indepenant Suspension.
The UDR had a solid rear axle, the main difference. Chassis roll overs being a thing. It is a tad larger than a Mojo FWIW.
My Mojo is one of my favorite Arrma's. I don't send it. Have plenty of fun just tossing it around, over baseball mounds etc.

I was pretty set on the UDR just for the realism until I saw what a pain it is to work on. I would agree though, the Mojave does appear to handle better overall.

 

[Johnny b]

How was the landing??? Every single time I've sent my big rock flying i picture your tyohon upon landing. A little less now that I've done it a bunch but I was super scared I was gonna snap it the first dozen or so big jumps
I'm running those Mp9 shocks and they take the big sends so well. I don't believe it is chassis slapping very much as all, might be part of why I havnt broken one yet.

I think the front end hit the ground first and it just buckled. I normally don't abuse my rigs like that and have since toned down the ramp. Totally my fault. Chassis was only 8 bucks.

 

[Bustedaw11]

I think the front end hit the ground first and it just buckled. I normally don't abuse my rigs like that and have since toned down the ramp. Totally my fault. Chassis was only 8 bucks.

Yeah JRC has us covered in cheap chassis, thats super nice. I just figure I'll send it and when it breaks I'll have something to do.