Simple Green, MAF cleaner, carb cleaner, soap and water, WD-40, silicone spray? I done messed up...

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Stainless Steel is typically stronger than Mild Steel due to the alloy (chromium) it contains. That's why it is used to create objects that should withstand impactful force or frequent usage. Mild steel tensile strength is relatively lower but can undergo strengthening by adding carbon
Also depends on the type of stainless they use. A good quality stainless is great. In my experience with hardware it’s very soft. Probably to save money it’s stainless screws from China lol
 
I will try it out with SS on the Typhon, I find out.....Also got your Package Bro :) I appreciated
exactly, it always depends on what you buy ;)
You mean chineasim 7075 isn’t the same 😂
 
Are we worried about seized bolts and nuts? If so thread locker for metal to metal attachment points works as anti seize, and I'd imagine the plastic attachment points wouldn't seize at all.

If it's just aesthetics, surface rust is pretty easy to treat and prevent. A little rust remove or rust converter to coat the bolts?
 
I think I'm gonna pack the bearings with marine grease (I took the seals of all like 40 in my Xmaxx and they're soaking in alcohol), skip the WD-40, and maybe use dry lube if I feel like I "need" something lubed (e.g., dog bones, diff cups, hinge pins). I like the ceramic spray idea as well and putting some grease on the outside seam of the diff housing.

Do I just grease the front and rear insides of the diff housing? Do I need to grease the center diff or driveshaft gears?

Thanks all for your helpful advice!
 
I wouldn't grease anything outside of a housing. The gears inside the housing already come with grease, just reapply. If you really want to lube the center diff, use a spray on chain wax that dries with a wax coating. It's a lot cleaner than oil or grease over the long run.

Right now I just spray down the truck with silicone lube before each outing followed by a quick warm wash to get rid of the snow. I then spray with IPA to displace any water followed by a quick spray with the air compressor. So far so good.

I'll be replacing the bearings when summer comes around and will probably pack the bearings with some grease as well, followed by a coat of chain wax between washes over the outer surface of the bearings in an attempt to keep them nice and sealed. I'm going to coat the truck with a spray on ceramic wax, hopefully it helps shed all the dirt and grime off during washings.
 
Does anyone know a quick way to tell the front from rear diff by looking at the outside? I feel like an idiot but I don't know which one is which now
 
I dunk mine in saltwater and give a light dusting with flour after the fact.

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I converted all my hardware to stainless, and really liked it, although it is softer than the 12.9 stuff (that rusts if you look at it funny)

I use quality tools and never stripped any of the stainless screws.

Now I'm running about 50/50. All the load bearing stuff is 12.9 and the rest is stainless.

My wing mount screws were stainless and bent during a flip. Changed it out to 12.9 and another flip later they were bent as well... so whatever, the 12.9 arrma stuff doesn't seem that much stronger :rolleyes:
 
Not afraid at all, but jeez lots of work, I rather stay out of the wet stuff
Wet or not, every time I do the tear down I find something that could use adjustment, is loose, or bent. So always seems worth it. I just put something good on TV and get to work.
 
I don't run my rigs in water, I have a vacuum attachment I used for the accessible stuff, then blow it out with compressed air.

I always seem to have trouble with my bearings. On the last full chassis teardown on the Granite we found a ton of stock bearings that were bad (excess play), and others I pulled the seals off, cleaned, and repacked with Superlube synthetic grease. Seems to be working well, I like excess grease in the bearings, I seem to have less trouble with them.

I still struggle getting the seals off of smaller bearings.. Still waiting for someone to tell me the secret way without damaging the seal.

I have tried the silicone spray and it seems to work nice for a quick fix as well. It will make a dry "dirty" bearing sound crunchy though...
 
Wet or not, every time I do the tear down I find something that could use adjustment, is loose, or bent. So always seems worth it. I just put something good on TV and get to work.
You right, that's why I go over the Rig every time I run it, I just found that my pinion moved even though it was Loctite in.
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Totally agree. People shouldn't be afraid to completely tear down. I don't do it every time it gets wet, but I do tear down once or twice a month when using is daily.
How long does a tear down typically take?
 
It was my first time taking my xmaxx completely apart (minus electronics), and from start to finish (cleaning, greasing, etc) it took about 8 hours 🤯😵

Packing 30+ bearings took forever. I could only get a little bit of grease in each. Hopefully that's ok. Not eager to do this again anytime soon.
 
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