Granite Slipper Clutch Maintenance

[parcou]

I don't loosen. Let it cure 24 hours and put it back in and run it.

Thx my friend...I watched the video over and read a bit more this thread.... I failed to understand that when the tires skid this is the setting I want my the slipper clutch set at, optimal spot... I think the light has come on for me

Thx Sir!

 

[Arrmature]

Well, I tried the skid method and when the wheels started to skid, I couldn't tighten the slipper any more - it was already fully tight.

 

[Yonic]

I said that multiple times but i get mostly ignored . Thanks for validating this.

If you don’t want to destroy diffs and drive shafts, loosen it 1.5 turns.

 

[jondilly1974]

I said that multiple times but i get mostly ignored . Thanks for validating this.

If you don’t want to destroy diffs and drive shafts, loosen it 1.5 turns.

I can usually crank mine way beyond skidding. ??‍

 

[Arrmature]

I can usually crank mine way beyond skidding. ??‍

That's exactly what I would expect. I did something wrong, I just can't figure out what. The only thing I didn't do was connect the motor to the ESC, but I'm not sure how much of a difference that would have made. For now it's a turn and half back from full tight. I'll get back to it in a couple of weeks when I get the new bearing for it.

 

[Yonic]

I can usually crank mine way beyond skidding. ??‍

Interesting, i wonder why it is different for you.

When i tighten the slipper (normally by hand, not in the car via the tires) i feel no resistance at all, all the way to it being fully locked, there's no ramping of the resistance or anything. Both on my 3s and 4s slippers...

 

[jondilly1974]

Interesting, i wonder why it is different for you.

When i tighten the slipper (normally by hand, not in the car via the tires) i feel no resistance at all, all the way to it being fully locked, there's no ramping of the resistance or anything. Both on my 3s and 4s slippers...

Sounds like your spring is compressed already. You should feel the spring begin to add tension as you tighten. The issue I’ve had and I’ve seen many other have it too is they end up breaking the brass bushing out of the front hub trying to get to full tight.

 

[GRC]

I said that multiple times but i get mostly ignored . Thanks for validating this.

If you don’t want to destroy diffs and drive shafts, loosen it 1.5 turns.

I think you're getting ignored again. From what I remember, when the car was new, the skid method got me to full tight as well. Right now, I'm waiting for an axle, so I can't do the skid method. My tires are also very worn down compared to new, so the skid method may not produce the same results. So I just used the manual method, crank it down and loosen afterwards. 1.25 from full tight got me the wheelie response I wanted last time. I won't be able to validate, because I used loc-tite. I'd have to break the loc-tite to check with the skid method.

 

[Yonic]

Sounds like your spring is compressed already.

but i have two 3s slippers and a (relatively) new 4s slipper. it's the same for all of them.. and they are not stripped. i don't know, weird. @GRC, do you feel it getting tensioned as you tighten it?

 

[jondilly1974]

but i have two 3s slippers and a (relatively) new 4s slipper. it's the same for all of them.. and they are not stripped. i don't know, weird. @GRC, do you feel it getting tensioned as you tighten it?

Your springs are possibly caked in thread lock. If they don’t give you tension, they can’t do their job.

 

[Yonic]

of course they give tension, but the thread pitch on the screw is so fine, that the "gearing" is so low as you compress the spring, you can bearably feel it.

 

[GRC]

but i have two 3s slippers and a (relatively) new 4s slipper. it's the same for all of them.. and they are not stripped. i don't know, weird. @GRC, do you feel it getting tensioned as you tighten it?

Hmm, really not sure. Maybe some tension, but I just attributed it to tightening a screw. I didn't think about whether it was the spring being compressed. It didn't strike me as much different than tightening other screws. The spring is clean and my slipper certainly works correctly. I love skid/spinning and hitting the gas. I can see/hear the slip when it's too much.

 

[cageywhite]

Ahh, I got it. Thanks guys! Doing it tonight. By the way, the method in that video (using a hex wrench to hold the screw while you rolled the truck until the back tires locked) worked perfectly for me. I put 3 packs through the Granite yesterday, worked great. I'm going to readjust the slipper tonight using the same method, and then put the locktite in. Pretty easy fix.

 

[takrelli]

By putting in thread lock into the bottom side of slipper hub, has anybody experienced it being bonded with the rear input gear?? Few weeks ago, I followed the method shown in the video listed in this thread, put 2 drops of BLUE LOCKTITE in to the bottom hub, let it sit for 24 hours before reassembling. For 3 weeks it was running amazing, but this week I noticed the drive train locking up when I tried to roll the Granite back and forth. I figured there was something going on in the motor mount, so I tried to take the motor mount out to check it out, but I found out that the rear slipper hub and the insert gear was somehow bonded, and it just wouldn't come out. With the help of LHS, I finally was able to separate the two (I actually had to take the whole rear differential out with the motor mount attached to take it to the LHS). The guy at the LHS told me that the locktite probably was the cause of the freeze up and that if anything, I should've put the locktite on the front side of the hub where the bolt goes in.... So, as I am ready to put the car back together and put the thread lock in, should I still follow the video and put it on the rear side?? Do you think it was just a freak accident? Thanks in advance for you comments!!

 

[jondilly1974]

By putting in thread lock into the bottom side of slipper hub, has anybody experienced it being bonded with the rear input gear?? Few weeks ago, I followed the method shown in the video listed in this thread, put 2 drops of BLUE LOCKTITE in to the bottom hub, let it sit for 24 hours before reassembling. For 3 weeks it was running amazing, but this week I noticed the drive train locking up when I tried to roll the Granite back and forth. I figured there was something going on in the motor mount, so I tried to take the motor mount out to check it out, but I found out that the rear slipper hub and the insert gear was somehow bonded, and it just wouldn't come out. With the help of LHS, I finally was able to separate the two (I actually had to take the whole rear differential out with the motor mount attached to take it to the LHS). The guy at the LHS told me that the locktite probably was the cause of the freeze up and that if anything, I should've put the locktite on the front side of the hub where the bolt goes in.... So, as I am ready to put the car back together and put the thread lock in, should I still follow the video and put it on the rear side?? Do you think it was just a freak accident? Thanks in advance for you comments!!

Yes I have had that happen before and that’s why I reduced the amount I used to two drops. I used to go pretty heavy on the application and it did bond to the input. Since I dialed it back to two drops, it hasn’t had the same issue. If you are getting a bond with two drops, try just one instead. Maybe your bottle gives larger drops than mine. ??

 

[takrelli]

Yes I have had that happen before and that’s why I reduced the amount I used to two drops. I used to go pretty heavy on the application and it did bond to the input. Since I dialed it back to two drops, it hasn’t had the same issue. If you are getting a bond with two drops, try just one instead. Maybe your bottle gives larger drops than mine. ??

Wow, I just watched the video again and it's YOU that made the video!! Omg, what an honor to have you reply back to my question!! Thank you. So, I'm actually happy to hear from you that you've experienced the same thing... I guess I'm just going to be real careful this time and just put ONE drop in and maybe let it dry for well over 24 hours! But, boy, did I have such a difficult time un-bonding the two pieces... I almost gave it up and also made so many scratches and marks on the chassis and the motor mount cover because I was trying to pry it out, thinking that maybe there was a debris stuck by the slot underneath the spur.... Sorry, I have 3 more questions for you, if it's ok.... 1) How much turn are you going for the adjustment. Las time I used 1/2 turn, and it seemed ok, but is that too tight? 2) When yours bonded with input, what method did you use to get them detached? I thought heating would work, but it didn't. 3) Why do we put the locktite in the rear, and not on the front side where the bolt is??) Thanks again!!

 

[jondilly1974]

Wow, I just watched the video again and it's YOU that made the video!! Omg, what an honor to have you reply back to my question!! Thank you. So, I'm actually happy to hear from you that you've experienced the same thing... I guess I'm just going to be real careful this time and just put ONE drop in and maybe let it dry for well over 24 hours! But, boy, did I have such a difficult time un-bonding the two pieces... I almost gave it up and also made so many scratches and marks on the chassis and the motor mount cover because I was trying to pry it out, thinking that maybe there was a debris stuck by the slot underneath the spur.... Sorry, I have 3 more questions for you, if it's ok.... 1) How much turn are you going for the adjustment. Las time I used 1/2 turn, and it seemed ok, but is that too tight? 2) When yours bonded with input, what method did you use to get them detached? I thought heating would work, but it didn't. 3) Why do we put the locktite in the rear, and not on the front side where the bolt is??) Thanks again!!

I don’t do x turns out. I just let it skid and that’s it. I used brute force to get them apart. I do the back side to prevent getting TL on the spring. If you are using TL paste instead of liquid, you could try putting the paste on the inside of the rear hub.

 

[ph47mf]

I put 3 drops into mine (just to make sure it's enough ) and have taken the motor out numerous times without any issues.

This system really have given a lot of hassle to a lot of people.

 

[Arrmature]

So, I set my slipper a few days ago after checking the spur gear bearing - full tight and then back one and half turns. Before I disassembled I verified that the factory setting was one and a half turns from fully tight. I took it out this evening and it just doesn't do wheelies any more. I tried holding the back wheels while giving it throttle. I was half expecting to get hit in the face, but the front end didn't lift at all. How much too loose am I?

 

[Mnstr98]

So after he tightens it and adds the locitite for 24hr...where does the 1.5 - 2 turns come in to play that most say to do after you tighten it to loosen it back some....never leave it fully tight.

Maybe I'm missing something

What rear wing is that?