Soldering Irons

[GeneralTyphon]

I use a Weller WTCPT station with aTC201T iron. You can buy different temperature tips and also different size/shapes.

That looks like the old weller I had on my bench back when I was a television tech 20 years ago. Only difference is mine had a variable power knob on the front with the switch.

I've never understood soldering stations and fancy adjustable watts for the average user. I've got a weller 550? Gun, a 60w and an 80w and a torch. I grab the one I need (almost always the 80) and do the job and move on.
I'm not judging those who have them and enjoy them!
I'm simply saying as much as I solder I've never found the need.

I find it worthwhile to invest in the right one at the beginning instead of starting with a less-capable model just because it’s a bit less expensive, then buying another, another, and another.

I think the fact you own 4 irons of different wattage justifies your need for a 'fancy adjustable watts' station Sir.

 

[Bustedaw11]

I find it worthwhile to invest in the right one at the beginning instead of starting with a less-capable model just because it’s a bit less expensive.

I am a mechanic and live off my tools. I understand quality tools and the necessity for them.

I've been at this a long while, just saying I don't understand. My solo irons aren't any less capable then a station. They are "the right tool"

If my job was sitting there day in and day out soldering up boards, I'd totally get a station. Thats not what most of us are doing.

 

[Bustedaw11]

I think the fact you own 4 irons of different wattage justifies your need for a 'fancy adjustable watts' station Sir.

I really don't though.. as I stated I only ever use the 80 or the torch. The torch is while working on cars and when a normal iron is out of the question. I couldn't tell you when the gun or 60 was used last. I'm stating you can get by just fine with that.
Some would make it seem you'd need more and I'm simply saying you really don't.

Im not trying to to get into anything with you I was really just stating the fact I don't understand them cause I've never seen the need and I solder a lot also.

Thats all buddy, I'm out.

 

[GeneralTyphon]

Sounds good

 

[ARA8611V5]

I have found that a good holding fixture makes a lot of difference in trying to solder 5mm battery terminals. I saw a you tube video where some guy used a block of wood to hold the terminal while soldering. just drilled a hole and dropped the contact in and then hit it with the iron. I tried it and it worked well for me.

 

[Tex Koder]

I have found that a good holding fixture makes a lot of difference in trying to solder 5mm battery terminals. I saw a you tube video where some guy used a block of wood to hold the terminal while soldering. just drilled a hole and dropped the contact in and then hit it with the iron. I tried it and it worked well for me.

That's exactly what I do also.
Cheap AND effective!
Works perfectly

 

[KnowAir]

I use this, love it. Cheap enough to toss without being butt hurt if it craps out too

 

[SrC]

I've never understood soldering stations and fancy adjustable watts for the average user. I've got a weller 550? Gun, a 60w and an 80w and a torch. I grab the one I need (almost always the 80) and do the job and move on.
I'm not judging those who have them and enjoy them!
I'm simply saying as much as I solder I've never found the need.

Soldering has become a hobby within this hobby. I also started out with that rather heavy Weller gun. It is rudimentary at best. But whatever works for you. I been through a few soldering station in the years. I am still running my Radioshack station I got on sale for so cheap when RS went out of business. Not the best out there, but the various tip sizes are still easily found, and it has a Temperature recovery indicator. With digital temp settings. I prefer 680F-720F for quicker soldering of heavy guage soldering. Needed for large guage soldering. And it also has a very flexible silicone jacketing lead. Any worth its grain of salt will always have a silicone lead. If not, you bought garbage.

 

[GeneralTyphon]

Soldering has become a hobby within this hobby. I also started out with that rather heavy Weller gun. It is rudimentary at best. But whatever works for you. I been through a few soldering station in the years. I am still running my Radioshack station I got on sale for so cheap when RS went out of business. Not the best out there, but the various tip sizes are still easily found, and it has a Temperature recovery indicator. With disgital temp settings. I prefer 680F-720F for quicker soldering of heavy guage soldering. Needed for large guage soldering. And it also has a very flexible silicone jacketing lead. Any worth its grain of salt will always have a silicone lead. If not, you bought garbage.

My cheap old radio shack pen was awesome until it wasn't recently. I miss the shack.

Agreed silicon lead is preferred.

 

[KnowAir]

That's exactly what I do also.
Cheap AND effective!
Works perfectly

Same here, wood block for bullets, vice grips for wires/connectors.
I just recently "upgraded" from a 20 year old 30watt Weller to 40watts(w/LEDS) When I bought the new iron last year, I swapped from T plugs to XT90'S on 20+batteries and 10 esc's, most of which have dual plugs. Easy peasy with my fancy Weller!!
I have one of the big ole pistol type 100watt wellers..useless to me.

 

[SrC]

I am a mechanic and live off my tools. I understand quality tools and the necessity for them.

I've been at this a long while, just saying I don't understand. My solo irons aren't any less capable then a station. They are "the right tool"

If my job was sitting there day in and day out soldering up boards, I'd totally get a station. Thats not what most of us are doing.

I was a Toyota dealer Tech for 8 years, Many mechanics don't even believe in soldering. Have no clue. Never trained in regards at all. Just use crimps and Heatshrink sleeve if you are lucky, that's all. A wire twist and Electrical tape most of the time.. Then Send it down the road. Getting comebacks when the joint corrodes and fails. More business.....
Proper Factory wiring splicing, etc, repairs, requires soldering and WP sealed heat shrink with most Car Mfr tech manuals and TSB's. To meet or exceed factory specs. Just because the factory harnesses are all crimped, doesn't mean your supposed to do the same with repairs or upgrade wiring. i.e. replacing Fusable links etc.
A decent Temp controlled Station with Temp recovery is fairly cheap these days. And fine with what little RC soldering we do.

 

[KnowAir]

I was a Toyota dealer Tech for 8 years, Many mechanics don't even believe in soldering. Have no clue. Never trained in regards at all. Just use crimps and Heatshrink sleeve, that's all. Then Send it down the road. Getting comebacks when the joint corrodes and fails. More business.....
Proper Factory wiring splicing, etc, repairs, requires soldering and WP sealed heat shrink with most Car Mfr tech manuals and TSB's. To meet or exceed factory specs.
A decent Temp controlled Station with Temp recovery is fairly cheap these days. And fine with what little RC soldering we do.

It's called job security son!!
JK, I have seen this too..shameful, IMO.

 

[SrC]

Hakko is a very good brand.
Even the basic soldering station one is fine.
My next one will have to be a Rework station. With the heat blower. I just cant kill my Radio Shack one however. They were made so well years ago.

 

[GeneralTyphon]

A wire twist and Electrical tape most of the time..

Thats as bad as a non-trimmed wire tie ends or re-using cotter pins. :shudder:

Hakko is a very good brand.
Even the basic soldering station one is fine.
My next one will have to be a Rework station. With the heat blower. I just cant kill my Radio Shack one however. They were made so well years ago.

I've read good things about Hakko, people seem to like the FX888 but no rework on that model

 

[SrC]

Since I use HS everywhere and when doing Wire braid covering, I want the hot air blower. Basically a heat gun, but used best for flowing solder on PCB's. Removing, repairing and reworking finer small components. Desoldering Braid is also good to have on hand. So is Acid free Flux paste.
Just remember to always use a Large Blunt tip for Connector soldering. Pencil tips is the wrong way. You will pull your hair out. Many soldering kits/stations don't come with the Large blunt tip. A separate purchase for them. And tips vary by size and their brand might not be compatible.
Hakko tips seem to be the more common standard. Always Tin a brand new Tip first. Get with the many videos in regards, if unsure. Keeping them very clean makes them work best. Better faster heat transfer to the Joint. Clean your tip well first before shutting it off when you are done. Brass wool and a water damped sponge are commonly used for this.

 

[Bustedaw11]

I was a Toyota dealer Tech for 8 years, Many mechanics don't even believe in soldering. Have no clue. Never trained in regards at all. Just use crimps and Heatshrink sleeve if you are lucky, that's all. A wire twist and Electrical tape most of the time.. Then Send it down the road. Getting comebacks when the joint corrodes and fails. More business.....
Proper Factory wiring splicing, etc, repairs, requires soldering and WP sealed heat shrink with most Car Mfr tech manuals and TSB's. To meet or exceed factory specs. Just because the factory harnesses are all crimped, doesn't mean your supposed to do the same with repairs or upgrade wiring. i.e. replacing Fusable links etc.
A decent Temp controlled Station with Temp recovery is fairly cheap these days. And fine with what little RC soldering we do.

Well I can certainly agree with you on that fact. Nobody knows what marine heat shrink is or why the heck youd use it. There are a lot of folks who don't care.
I've got into it with the senerior mechanic at the shop before over soldering. He drove me absolutely nuts because he would twist the wires together, solder and then heat shrink. It may have been soldered and sealed but it looked like crap. When you gotta solder a whole harness at the same location, having that balled up mess makes the harness look like crap.
I am ocd as crap about my work looking the best that it can.

I understand the "hobby within the hobby". I guess I've never seen that as a hobby I suppose.

We all do what we do the way we want to and as I stated I wasn't judging anyone who was into them, just wanted to know the benefits or why it was needed over what works well for me.

BTW that heat blower your speaking of. I used a heat gun in the past to replace parts on a few cell phone boards. You'd heat the whole thing trying to localize the heat to the chip or piece you were working on. Worked great unless you hit the board when heated and other pieces moved or shifted. Guilty of that happening. Is that a better tool for doing what im talking about?

 

[GeneralTyphon]

Well I can certainly agree with you on that fact. Nobody knows what marine heat shrink is or why the heck youd use it. There are a lot of folks who don't care.
I've got into it with the senerior mechanic at the shop before over soldering. He drove me absolutely nuts because he would twist the wires together, solder and then heat shrink. It may have been soldered and sealed but it looked like crap. When you gotta solder a whole harness at the same location, having that balled up mess makes the harness look like crap.
I am ocd as crap about my work looking the best that it can.

I understand the "hobby within the hobby". I guess I've never seen that as a hobby I suppose.

We all do what we do the way we want to and as I stated I wasn't judging anyone who was into them, just wanted to know the benefits or why it was needed over what works well for me.

BTW that heat blower your speaking of. I used a heat gun in the past to replace parts on a few cell phone boards. You'd heat the whole thing trying to localize the heat to the chip or piece you were working on. Worked great unless you hit the board when heated and other pieces moved or shifted. Guilty of that happening. Is that a better tool for doing what im talking about?

When you say heat gun is that one of the large hairdryer sized ones?

If so, yea a hot air rework station combined with stencils is way more precise than a heat gun. Would be better for smt work

 

[Bustedaw11]

When you say heat gun is that one of the large hairdryer sized ones?

If so, yea a hot air rework station combined with stencils is way more precise than a heat gun. Would be better for smt work

It definitely was. I'd never even known that was a thing. I just new I needed to come up with a way and like I said it worked so long as I was very careful.

I havnt had the need in years to work on something like that but ill look into what your talking about.

 

[GeneralTyphon]

It definitely was. I'd never even known that was a thing. I just new I needed to come up with a way and like I said it worked so long as I was very careful.

I havnt had the need in years to work on something like that but ill look into what your talking about.

Impressive work with a just a big heat gun my dude.

 

[RCSteve]

If you ever have to solder 8guage on QS8s you are going to need a different setup. You are going to want a different technology for your iron, Metcal was the pioneer of inductive heating technology in soldering. Here is my setup. Always have a good solder sucker too, it is invaluable.