Granite Solving driveshaft breaking issues

[Cuzboss]

Granite 4x4 BLX 3S with 17T pinion. I keep popping out the yolks on my rear driveshaft (Sometimes front too) and even when i pop the yolk back in, within minutes it pops right back out. I have bought 60$ worth of atock shafts and destroyed them. I know the HR cvds are junk from what i read but I want to be able to rag on my truck without them constantly popping out which leads me to my questions...

-Will a different model ARRMAS driveshafts that are stronger fit in the Granite?

-What is the difference between the front and rear driveshafts? (They have different part #s)

Thank you in advance and I hope this thread can solve many people headaches. Other than this issue, and steering/wheel slop, this truck is more than one can ask for.

 

[jondilly1974]

The Yoke is not part of the driveshaft. This is the Yoke:

Front and rear shafts should be identical. The real reason you are popping the u-joints in your shafts is due to too tight of a slipper. Loosen the slipper and you won't pop them anymore.

 

[razorrc]

Loosen your slipper.

 

[Outcastblxnut]

We got some scouts out testing gpm alloy shafts. Might wanna give um a shot

 

[AimlessRC]

A few of us are testing out the GPM shafts... I'm waiting on mine from the slow boat, but others have already installed and begun bashing.

I have a set of Hot Racing shafts.... and they are GREAT so far. They've had over 20 2S and 3S packs through them with ZERO issues. A few people have snapped a ball end, but there are rebuild kits out there. Mainly they snap due to rust, or binding from 0 lubrication.

I am sure Bickety and others have their reasons for ragging on HR for their customer service, and that has left a bad taste in everyone's mouth... but if you don't plan on jumping houses and landing cock-eyed on asphalt and expect to drive away.... they should hold up just fine.

He told me right off... they may not break today, or tomorrow, but eventually they will.

I am 100% positive he's right. I'm on 2 months and counting.

You'll start to see more and more on the GPM ones...

 

[Cuzboss]

Yes sorry, i meant the U-joints. They keep popping out and when i do loosen the slipper (1/4-1/2 turn from tight) its almost as if it gets looser on its out after running a couple packs. I have already replaced a set of pads because they glazed.

 

[jondilly1974]

Yes sorry, i meant the U-joints. They keep popping out and when i do loosen the slipper (1/4-1/2 turn from tight) its almost as if it gets looser on its out after running a couple packs. I have already replaced a set of pads because they glazed.

You need to find the perfect setup and use blue thread locker to keep it set.

 

[AimlessRC]

You need to thoroughly clean the threads with brake clean or carb cleaner. But keep that stuff away from the plastics.

Then, and only then will thead locker work.

Set your slipper 2 turns out from fully seated and you should never break another shaft or pop another u-joint.

The black 'glazing' on the pads is normal and does not need to be cleaned off aggressively... as long as your pads are flat and uniform thickness, they will work just fine.

 

[xertian]

Set your slipper 2 turns out from fully seated and you should never break another shaft or pop another u-joint.

2 turns out from fully tight wouldn't even allow my BRCC to move, pure slip. I have maybe 1/8 a turn of adjustability in my slipper between what drives like a full lock (breaking shafts) and massive hesitation on launch. I suppose I should get that thing disassembled and inspected to see what is going on.

Technically I have it cranked down pretty tight now for testing but previously trying to set it for the health of the factory shafts was a PITA on my truck.

 

[Cuzboss]

I generally like my slipper pretty tight because i get more punch and when it does slip over time it wears out the pads faster. Is there any other arrma shafts I can install from a more powerful truck that will take a better beating?

 

[xertian]

I generally like my slipper pretty tight because i get more punch and when it does slip over time it wears out the pads faster. Is there any other arrma shafts I can install from a more powerful truck that will take a better beating?

As has been stated numerous times all over the forum, a tight slipper will break these shafts. The plastic ears at the joint just aren't capable of that type of stress/torque. That said, you can still break shafts even with a sufficiently loose slipper. Full speed cartwheels are a great demonstration.

I don't know of any Arrma alternatives but some people have begun experimenting with the 4S shafts. I believe they are NOT a direct fit and will require some work.

 

[jondilly1974]

As has been stated numerous times all over the forum, a tight slipper will break these shafts. The plastic ears at the joint just aren't capable of that type of stress/torque. That said, you can still break shafts even with a sufficiently loose slipper. Full speed cartwheels are a great demonstration.

I don't know of any Arrma alternatives but some people have begun experimenting with the 4S shafts. I believe they are NOT a direct fit and will require some work.

4S shafts will NOT work with 3S hubs. You can upgrade to 4S hubs, but they require 4S arms, hinge pins, tie rods, etc. Its a deep rabbit hole.

 

[bicketybam]

4S shafts will NOT work with 3S hubs. You can upgrade to 4S hubs, but they require 4S arms, hinge pins, tie rods, etc. Its a deep rabbit hole.

For shafts that are no better ?

 

[jondilly1974]

For shafts that are no better ?

I will have to check you there Ed. The 4S shafts are considerably better looking. They seem stiffer and thicker. Just my noob observation, but they seem better. Time will tell.... if I can stop breaking arms ??

 

[Outcastblxnut]

Nope same sh!tty shafts. I go through um just like the 3s

 

[jondilly1974]

Nope same sh!tty shafts. I go through um just like the 3s

I guess I’m lucky so far as to only break a-arms. ??‍

But that happened in the first 10 jumps so I don’t have much time on them yet. My slipper did go loose on jump 9 and then busted an arm on jump 10.

 

[bicketybam]

I will have to check you there Ed. The 4S shafts are considerably better looking. They seem stiffer and thicker. Just my noob observation, but they seem better. Time will tell.... if I can stop breaking arms ??

The part that attaches to the diff outdrives is the same as the 3s shafts. You know, the part that breaks all the time.

 

[jondilly1974]

The part that attaches to the diff outdrives is the same as the 3s shafts. You know, the part that breaks all the time.

I would have swore they were larger on the diff side, but it looks like you're right. They are only larger on the hub side. Diff side is identical.

 

[cake]

I'm so encouraged to hear that I am not the only one having these issues. I am going to try loosening my slipper a bit, cleaning, locktight, and even letting it "set" the full 24 hours before running it. I looked at doing a 4s conversion to my granite 3s (To convert a granite to an "outcast 3s" was about $160) not worth it to me, Ill just continue my quest with my granite 3s until I can afford a Kraton.

 

[AimlessRC]

(To convert a granite to an "outcast 3s" was about $160)

Nope. Not even close. $40 in parts minus the body if you shop around for deals on eBay or Jennies RC for take-offs. The body is the most expensive part, but should still land you around $90-110. Honestly a ProLine body would suit just fine for even cheaper.