Spektrum DX6 transmitter minimal low voltage? Car glitch?

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ARRMA-GET’M

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After not driving the felony for seven months, I checked the batteries on my spectrum DX3 transmitter and they measured 1.4 V each AA battery which is not bad because brand new they are 1.5 V so that is very good considering they are two years old and they are the Fuji batteries that came with the RTR Felony. One thing that was unusual, when I powered on my monster X8 us for the first time in seven months, it did not beep like it does when I finalize this registration. I turned it off and on a couple times, but I had to calibrate it With the whole giving it throttle and then neutral and then reverse thing and then it finally registered. Maybe it’s not for so long and the speed control last memory? Anyway… The spectrum DX3 transmitter was on for about one hour straight and I spent most of the time just taking still shots and panoramic photography . However, there was never any issues with the transmitter or reception. I never got a low-voltage warning, although I’ve never even heard one from the spectrum DX3 transmitter as of yet. About 90 minutes into making Content, I was ready to spread my wings and do some speed runs. On the very first long stretch, I slow down and was preparing to make a U-turn to bring the vehicle back, but the sudden while it was just sitting there, it started doing donuts at full throttle, with a cloud of smoke coming from the vehicle, and I was unable to tell if there was a fire developing or if my RC vehicle was celebrating New Year’s and didn’t invite me to the party.

As I ran towards the vehicle, frantically with my GoPro bobbing up and down on my forehead, and trying to hit reverse on the transmitter with my hands in the air like I just don’t care which was quite the opposite and nothing was changing until I was about 150 feet from the RC vehicle which was right about the same exact time the RC car went up on two wheels sideways from the momentum and the aluminum front splitter hit the concrete divider at most parking lots have. At that moment the car just stood still on all four with smoke emerging from the wheel wells of the RC vehicle just like in the Stephen King movie Christine., down to the blackout tints and its high beams, cutting through its own smoke that it bestowed upon me, creating the kind of light rays you can only get at a live Rave concert.

So my question to you guys is.., have you ever owned a stock Spektrum DX3 radio and experienced any out of control glitches and the radio won’t steer or stop the glitch? I’ve had reception loss because of distance but that never ever caused glitches!
 
My cars gets real funky at the edge of range, but more of a give it 5% throttle it will give 100% throttle kinda thing. Hence why I am upgrading to a Noble.

Have you set up the failsafe position? Might have not gotten forgotten as it sounds like everything reset
 
Wow, that sounds scary! I hope there was no significant damage. That would be my thought as well, either put it up on blocks, or remove the wheels, and test the failsafe operation. It wouldn't explain why you lost control with batteries that are presumably still fine, but it might at least explain the crazy behavior AFTER you lost control.

I would also re-check what the transmitter battery voltage is now. Maybe they were 1.4V at the start, but 0.9V now?
 
Those batteries are way done, replace ASAP. 1.4V is close to being dead, especially if you had it on for photo shoots.
If the transmitter is off, and you do have interference you will observe just that, i.e. the receiver will follow that noise or is at a borderline threshold. Never have the receiver on with transmitter off is the golden rule.
DX3 will lose bind over time, as you experienced, and is in general a POS imho. Seen them acting up within a week and mine is now safely stored in the trashcan or long term storage aka dump site.
 
Wait, so you left the tx on for an hour and a half, with 2 yr old used batteries?

And the failsafe was not set properly.. it's a hell of a procedure on those things...
 
My cars gets real funky at the edge of range, but more of a give it 5% throttle it will give 100% throttle kinda thing. Hence why I am upgrading to a Noble.

Have you set up the failsafe position? Might have not gotten forgotten as it sounds like everything reset
I trusted that the failsafe was already performed by the manufacturer as the Fellini came already bound and working. I have taken the vehicle to very far lengths and never had any problems at all. This wasn’t a parking lot just a few hundred feet away and that went full throttle, and the wheels caught to the right and it was doing donuts and went up on two wheels. It didn’t stop until it hit the curb. The whole time I was running towards the car and nothing was changing. I will check later to see which part number receiver it is that came with a felony.

Before leaving the house I checked all four AA batteries on the spectrum DX three and they were at 1.4 V each which is not far off from a new 1.5 V. The radio was on for 90 minutes because I was making a lot of Content so I would imagine during the incident the transmitter batteries would have been at 1.3 V each.
 
I think this is worth checking. If they're still at a good voltage, you know it's likely something else. And if their voltage is very low, you may have an explanation for the root of the problem.
That’s the thing, idk if 5.2v is too low. Do I want to “safely” test the range with the same batteries to see if I get a signal loss “glitch”? If it happens I’ll try it again with four new AA+ alkaline. Now I’ll never be 100% confident ever again with this TX/RX spektrum. Imagine a 100mph rogue rc car that would be disastrous especially locally.
 
That’s the thing, idk if 5.2v is too low. Do I want to “safely” test the range with the same batteries to see if I get a signal loss “glitch”? If it happens I’ll try it again with four new AA+ alkaline. Now I’ll never be 100% confident ever again with this TX/RX spektrum. Imagine a 100mph rogue rc car that would be disastrous especially locally.
Aww man, and here I was thinking I'd finally see a DX6 in the wild and it turns out to just be a DX3.

I'm only half serious. I'm glad nothing all too serious happened. But I can understand why you'd have trust issues with that thing. I too suspect that it was probably just a conflagration of circumstances with batteries that had been laying around for too long but I think I'd ditch it for a better radio as well.
 
That’s the thing, idk if 5.2v is too low. Do I want to “safely” test the range with the same batteries to see if I get a signal loss “glitch”? If it happens I’ll try it again with four new AA+ alkaline. Now I’ll never be 100% confident ever again with this TX/RX spektrum. Imagine a 100mph rogue rc car that would be disastrous especially locally.

I have switched out electronics that I no longer trusted, because that is not a nice feeling, wondering if something will go wrong. Best-case it's just expensive if something happens, worst case someone gets hurt.

On the plus side, you can test it safely (with the wheels off), so you can at least see if you can reproduce the problems, with the same battery. If it were me, I would want to change nothing, and try to reproduce the problem. Sporadic electrical problems are so hard to diagnose. But if you *can* reproduce it, you have a starting point. Including the simple first step of swapping the batteries right after the test, and trying again.

Does the manual describe if the transmitter has a low-voltage limit or notification? Mine (different brand) blinks the power LED, I think, with low batteries. If the existing batteries stay above that limit, that would make me feel better about a power issue.

I would definitely ensure the failsafe is set properly (including at least cutting the throttle) before driving it again, if it were me. For 100 miles-an-hour worth of reasons :)
 
I have switched out electronics that I no longer trusted, because that is not a nice feeling, wondering if something will go wrong. Best-case it's just expensive if something happens, worst case someone gets hurt.

On the plus side, you can test it safely (with the wheels off), so you can at least see if you can reproduce the problems, with the same battery. If it were me, I would want to change nothing, and try to reproduce the problem. Sporadic electrical problems are so hard to diagnose. But if you *can* reproduce it, you have a starting point. Including the simple first step of swapping the batteries right after the test, and trying again.

Does the manual describe if the transmitter has a low-voltage limit or notification? Mine (different brand) blinks the power LED, I think, with low batteries. If the existing batteries stay above that limit, that would make me feel better about a power issue.

I would definitely ensure the failsafe is set properly (including at least cutting the throttle) before driving it again, if it were me. For 100 miles-an-hour worth of reasons :)
You said it 100% accurate. Even a transmitter combo upgrade is still cheaper than the likelihood of one more glitch.
 
After not driving the felony for seven months, I checked the batteries on my spectrum DX3 transmitter and they measured 1.4 V each AA battery which is not bad because brand new they are 1.5 V so that is very good considering they are two years old and they are the Fuji batteries that came with the RTR Felony. One thing that was unusual, when I powered on my monster X8 us for the first time in seven months, it did not beep like it does when I finalize this registration. I turned it off and on a couple times, but I had to calibrate it With the whole giving it throttle and then neutral and then reverse thing and then it finally registered. Maybe it’s not for so long and the speed control last memory? Anyway… The spectrum DX3 transmitter was on for about one hour straight and I spent most of the time just taking still shots and panoramic photography . However, there was never any issues with the transmitter or reception. I never got a low-voltage warning, although I’ve never even heard one from the spectrum DX3 transmitter as of yet. About 90 minutes into making Content, I was ready to spread my wings and do some speed runs. On the very first long stretch, I slow down and was preparing to make a U-turn to bring the vehicle back, but the sudden while it was just sitting there, it started doing donuts at full throttle, with a cloud of smoke coming from the vehicle, and I was unable to tell if there was a fire developing or if my RC vehicle was celebrating New Year’s and didn’t invite me to the party.

As I ran towards the vehicle, frantically with my GoPro bobbing up and down on my forehead, and trying to hit reverse on the transmitter with my hands in the air like I just don’t care which was quite the opposite and nothing was changing until I was about 150 feet from the RC vehicle which was right about the same exact time the RC car went up on two wheels sideways from the momentum and the aluminum front splitter hit the concrete divider at most parking lots have. At that moment the car just stood still on all four with smoke emerging from the wheel wells of the RC vehicle just like in the Stephen King movie Christine., down to the blackout tints and its high beams, cutting through its own smoke that it bestowed upon me, creating the kind of light rays you can only get at a live Rave concert.

So my question to you guys is.., have you ever owned a stock Spektrum DX3 radio and experienced any out of control glitches and the radio won’t steer or stop the glitch? I’ve had reception loss because of distance but that never ever caused glitches!

I could be wrong here, but it was said once. Failsafe should have saved the device because batteries will fail in the transmitter and the car.

Two failsafe calibrations need to be done:

#1 Normal binding of the radio and the receiver and even the AVC calibration if you have AVC rx as part of the normal calibration

#2 One that is missed and not mentioned much. Calibrate the ESC. Firma ESC holding the set button until it beeps and setting the radio's natural trigger point, full throttle and brake point. This is the ESC not the receiver as above

I've had low batteries on the DX5C and the Infraction not close to me etc. I have never had a rig shoot-off. It could be luck, but I do feel both #1 and #2 need to be done for a perfect failsafe function.

Sorry for your issue!
 
I could be wrong here, but it was said once. Failsafe should have saved the device because batteries will fail in the transmitter and the car.

Two failsafe calibrations need to be done:

#1 Normal binding of the radio and the receiver and even the AVC calibration if you have AVC rx as part of the normal calibration

#2 One that is missed and not mentioned much. Calibrate the ESC. Firma ESC holding the set button until it beeps and setting the radio's natural trigger point, full throttle and brake point. This is the ESC not the receiver as above

I've had low batteries on the DX5C and the Infraction not close to me etc. I have never had a rig shoot-off. It could be luck, but I do feel both #1 and #2 need to be done for a perfect failsafe function.

Sorry for your issue!
Your absolutely right tho.. but with all my experience how am was I supposed to know all of that in advance🤷‍♂️

I’m running a mmx8s combo now and I only had to calibrate the esc with the stock spektrum dx3 radio and that was a year ago, all is good.

But here’s my question… WHY didn’t my esc resister on startup like it always does? Why did it need to be RE-calibrated after not using the rc car for 7 months? My remote 4 AA’s read 1.4v each..

Do castle ESC’s loose their memory settings if not used for long periods? The Spektrum calibrations are separate from that of the esc’ calibration, so I want to know if the Spektrum RECEIVER could have lost its memory settings just like the esc did because it sat for 7 months?
 
Do castle ESC’s loose their memory settings if not used for long periods? The Spektrum calibrations are separate from that of the esc’ calibration, so I want to know if the Spektrum RECEIVER could have lost its memory settings just like the esc did because it sat for 7 months?

I think it's worth reaching out to Castle and asking them. I would expect that settings would be stored in non-volatile memory in the ESC, which in theory, should last "forever". (doesn't require a battery to remember the settings) But maybe it's not quite "forever"?

It would seem interesting, and educational for us, to find out what they say.
 
Your absolutely right tho.. but with all my experience how am was I supposed to know all of that in advance🤷‍♂️

I’m running a mmx8s combo now and I only had to calibrate the esc with the stock spektrum dx3 radio and that was a year ago, all is good.

But here’s my question… WHY didn’t my esc resister on startup like it always does? Why did it need to be RE-calibrated after not using the rc car for 7 months? My remote 4 AA’s read 1.4v each..

Do castle ESC’s loose their memory settings if not used for long periods? The Spektrum calibrations are separate from that of the esc’ calibration, so I want to know if the Spektrum RECEIVER could have lost its memory settings just like the esc did because it sat for 7 months?
I guess you didn't read my comment.

You lost everything because it's a known issue with that transmitter, it's a POS.
The fail-safe settings are done whenever you actually bind.
Yes, you have to read the manual where it explains all that :ROFLMAO:

This fail-safe thing doesn't work well in brown-out conditions, which is what you have experienced. The transmitter needs a minimum voltage to operate safely. AA needs to be 1.5V or higher or doodoo will start to happen with this one. Why. because it's a POS (repeating myself).

Can't tell you why or that it shouldn't be that way, it just is. The receivers are ok but that specific transmitter has a mind of his own.

Get a DX5 or a different system or keep your batteries charged. Read the manual and do the bind & throttle range calibration. Follow it step by step, this isn't trivial and usually people do it wrong and have disaster occurring as a result. Step by step, I had it never go wrong if done correctly.
 
Your absolutely right tho.. but with all my experience how am was I supposed to know all of that in advance🤷‍♂️

I’m running a mmx8s combo now and I only had to calibrate the esc with the stock spektrum dx3 radio and that was a year ago, all is good.

But here’s my question… WHY didn’t my esc resister on startup like it always does? Why did it need to be RE-calibrated after not using the rc car for 7 months? My remote 4 AA’s read 1.4v each..

Do castle ESC’s loose their memory settings if not used for long periods? The Spektrum calibrations are separate from that of the esc’ calibration, so I want to know if the Spektrum RECEIVER could have lost its memory settings just like the esc did because it sat for 7 months?

Wish I knew the answer have to lean to people like @jkflow to explain the science behind it 🤷‍♂️. I do have a DX5C...just maybe that made the difference I have not been in that situation since it shows a battery voltage meter. I also buy the high-dollar Energizer Ultimate Lithium AA batteries so far only replace them 2x a year. So I could be an oddball with my examples.

The two calibrations I did not know that as well until a year later, and I went back to do the second on all mine. Like you said I had no idea either... I still have baby oil on me still learning :lol
 
I think it's worth reaching out to Castle and asking them. I would expect that settings would be stored in non-volatile memory in the ESC, which in theory, should last "forever". (doesn't require a battery to remember the settings) But maybe it's not quite "forever"?

It would seem interesting, and educational for us, to find out what they say.
Good point bcs the ESC needing to be
re-calibrated to the radio/receiver should stay fixed to that combo unless you physically calibrate it to another receiver.

I’ll make that call before I take out the same rc again.👌
I guess you didn't read my comment.

You lost everything because it's a known issue with that transmitter, it's a POS.
The fail-safe settings are done whenever you actually bind.
Yes, you have to read the manual where it explains all that :ROFLMAO:

This fail-safe thing doesn't work well in brown-out conditions, which is what you have experienced. The transmitter needs a minimum voltage to operate safely. AA needs to be 1.5V or higher or doodoo will start to happen with this one. Why. because it's a POS (repeating myself).

Can't tell you why or that it shouldn't be that way, it just is. The receivers are ok but that specific transmitter has a mind of his own.

Get a DX5 or a different system or keep your batteries charged. Read the manual and do the bind & throttle range calibration. Follow it step by step, this isn't trivial and usually people do it wrong and have disaster occurring as a result. Step by step, I had it never go wrong if done correctly.
It never lost bind but all that other $#¡+ did happened. I’ve only ever heard the DX2 was crap and the DX3 was reliable but now we’re up to the DX5 it looks. In the meantime my other TX/RX has been the radio link 6G, do you have any gripes been the
DX5 vs RL-6G?
Wish I knew the answer have to lean to people like @jkflow to explain the science behind it 🤷‍♂️. I do have a DX5C...just maybe that made the difference I have not been in that situation since it shows a battery voltage meter. I also buy the high-dollar Energizer Ultimate Lithium AA batteries so far only replace them 2x a year. So I could be an oddball with my examples.

The two calibrations I did not know that as well until a year later, and I went back to do the second on all mine. Like you said I had no idea either... I still have baby oil on me still learning :lol
😆.. the new baby smell is a biological defense mechanism, maybe that’s why you been fortunate.
 
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Using both dx5 and RC6, switched to RC8.
I like all 3, dx5 for Spektrum ESCs for telemetry. Radiolink for boats but will probably port the cars over as well.
 
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