Strange issue with Kraton

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I have a max6 in both of my running Nero for 2 years now with no issues. I used the glitch buster packs as well. They both have 4782 2000kv motors. I wanted to use 4092 cans but they won't fit & I wanted to keep that stock look.
 
I have a max6 in both of my running Nero for 2 years now with no issues. I used the glitch buster packs as well. They both have 4782 2000kv motors. I wanted to use 4092 cans but they won't fit & I wanted to keep that stock look.
4782= much smaller than a 5892. If this is what you want to run @bicketybam than you’ll be fine.
 
I have a max6 in both of my running Nero for 2 years now with no issues. I used the glitch buster packs as well. They both have 4782 2000kv motors. I wanted to use 4092 cans but they won't fit & I wanted to keep that stock look.

Awesome. Like I said I just wanted to run the stock motor until I decide on what to run. I was going to run the new Hobbywing motor that @Mr.Duke is going to run but then he posted something g about needing to fabricate a plate or something. I'm not really skilled or equipped to fan my own parts (only minor stuff). So now I'm looking for something that will run about the same speed as the stock motor on the 15t pinion but with lower temps. Direct for is a bonus. Any suggestions?
 
Oops, I meant 4082. Big fingers love to move fast :p
 
If this is for a Kraton, a hobbystar 4092 1730kv with a 20t pinion will be a little quicker than your stock one with a 15t. It’ll also run way cooler. Also has 6.5mm bullet connectors so it’ll plug right in. I’ve been running their 4076 in my revo and the magnet quality is definitely worth mentioning. Pretty darn torquey. It’s pretty miled out now being a standard 8th scale motor in a heavy MT so I’ll probably be upgrading to a 2000kv 4082. Can’t fit a 4092.
 
Oops, I meant 4082. Big fingers love to move fast :p
I was gonna say, never heard of a 4782 LoL. Yeah a 4082 is TINY compared to a 5892. As I said, for smaller motors, the rpm goes up.
 
I also have a hobbystar 4092 1730kv in my Kraton with a max6. After seeing Rich rip with his, I couldn't help it. I used a water jacket bolted to the chassis to help hold it in place.
 
I also have a hobbystar 4092 1730kv in my Kraton with a max6. After seeing Rich rip with his, I couldn't help it. I used a water jacket bolted to the chassis to help hold it in place.
Ah he runs them too now? Nice to see rcjuice kicking off. I’ve run hobbystar motors for a few years now alongside my castle motors and it’s nice to see a public figure getting them and inspiring others to do the same. Obviously nobody listened to a random guy on forums to get a cheap brushless motor ;)
 
I also have a hobbystar 4092 1730kv in my Kraton with a max6. After seeing Rich rip with his, I couldn't help it. I used a water jacket bolted to the chassis to help hold it in place.

Did you have to drill the chassis? Do you have a picture?
 
It’s the same diameter as the stock can. 40mm wide and 42mm including the fins. It’ll fit with no modifications other than the motor mount might need to be modified a tiny bit.
 
It’s the same diameter as the stock can. 40mm wide and 42mm including the fins. It’ll fit with no modifications other than the motor mount might need to be modified a tiny bit.

It's way longer. I want see how the rear of the can is supported.
 
It's way longer. I want see how the rear of the can is supported.
I’m aware. Hence the 74 vs 92. Thought you were wondering about drilling, I was telling you that you wouldn’t. The can will be fine if you use M4 screws.
 
I’m aware. Hence the 74 vs 92. Thought you were wondering about drilling, I was telling you that you wouldn’t. The can will be fine if you use M4 screws.
Drilling into the chassis to mount a rear support. People run these in their Arrmas. They are on this forum. No offense but I'm looking for real world experience with supporting the rear of the can in an Arrma truck.
 
Drilling into the chassis to mount a rear support. People run these in their Arrmas. They are on this forum. No offense but I'm looking for real world experience with supporting the rear of the can in an Arrma truck.
None taken. You are right with the last comment. I only use longcans in my plastic chassis vehicles, but in those the motor tends to take a lot less force as it’s absorbed by the chassis when it bottoms out. Because my senton isn’t heavy enough to need one, I don’t think one will ever go in. I thought you were talking about drilling the chassis for a slightly wider motor like the old days of oversized cans. Times have changed, it’s hard for me to adjust to new lingo, and I apologize.
 
Did you have to drill the chassis? Do you have a picture?
It was kinda impossible to see what I did with the car intact so I unbolted it. It needed cleaning anyway:
31124

31129

The strap is from a steel wormgear hose clamp that I cut & bent to fit the jacket
31126

31128

I cut the jacket down the middle at the bottom & grinded the bottom flat. I cut the jacket so I could separate it & fit it over the hobbystar motor. I grinded the bottom flat because there's nearly no clearance for it otherwise.
31130

I also slotted the chassis so I could move the jacket & clamp just like the motor mount.
 
It was kinda impossible to see what I did with the car intact so I unbolted it. It needed cleaning anyway:
View attachment 31124
View attachment 31129
The strap is from a steel wormgear hose clamp that I cut & bent to fit the jacket
View attachment 31126
View attachment 31128
I cut the jacket down the middle at the bottom & grinded the bottom flat. I cut the jacket so I could separate it & fit it over the hobbystar motor. I grinded the bottom flat because there's nearly no clearance for it otherwise.
View attachment 31130
I also slotted the chassis so I could move the jacket & clamp just like the motor mount.
Thanks so much for taking the time to do that ?? I'm running the M2C chassis and I'd like to avoid drilling it. I don't think I have much of a choice though.
 
After seeing Vas destroy a TP long can in that crazy Cen Reeper 8s build, I can't think of running one w/o it. But his was reinforced with a single inrunner clamp. He should of gone with 2. My clamp feels solid but I'll probably double it up since I have the thing apart already.
 
Nice info! Can you imagine a billit aluminum can support, that would fit snugly around the motor, and bolt to the aluminum chassis? It could use the chassis as a great big heat sink. Then imagine it bolted down to a JBI chassis, like I have. You'd almost never overheat the motor. Hummm, wish I had a milling machine! The idea struck me, when someone mentioned having to raise the motor mount to accommodate the larger motor. My first thought was why not just machine out a space in the chassis, then the motor would lay snugly on the chassis, and presto, a BIG heat sink!:eek:
 
After seeing Vas destroy a TP long can in that crazy Cen Reeper 8s build, I can't think of running one w/o it. But his was reinforced with a single inrunner clamp. He should of gone with 2. My clamp feels solid but I'll probably double it up since I have the thing apart already.

Yours look pretty damn solid. I can't see it moving much at all.
 
The clamp is stainless steel & I can bend it with my hands, It took 2 wrenches. I had to cut it with a grinder. The hobbystar only has ~10 runs on it & it's definitely holding up so far. Bending that clamp was a pita but a little more insurance won't hurt.
 
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